Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos ru-vid.comUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
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disappointed’ i never though i would see this type of work from this channel! you usually go the extra mile to do the job great but doing tile intop of that floor is just disappointing ://
Just a couple steps missing; you definitely want to clean and degrease after sanding the lino; might seem obvious, but important. Also, worth taking time to talk about how you precut and dry fit all the tile pieces before mixing your mortar. In a small bathroom that's easy enough to do; you don't want to have a bucket of mortar sitting while you negotiate a cut around a toilet flange 👍
You only showed half of what it takes for good execution - what about layout? It looked a little SUS with my OCD a brain but maybe ok in a small room. Layout will make or break a tile install
While you are probably absolute sure that where the cabinet is will always be a cabinet... i would stile remove it and tile the whole room. Might just me being german though.
L O L, I'm American first generation from Ireland… And I was thinking the same thing. A change of kitchen cabinets or placement of dishwasher what do you do with part of the floor still old… Very good point… And I will give it to you though, Germans are accurate lol!
@@toddsmash in UK tend to have either concrete floor or floorboards not plywood depends on what the subfloor is. I'm far from a specialist but plastering over wallpaper or tiling over laminate that's not correctly laid is a nightmare. If the laminate isn't glued or has a bubble the tile will end up being poorly laid.
Typically better to silicone the tile where it meets the bathtub skirting. This joint is prone to movement (when its fully loaded with water vs empty) causing grout cracking. But grout is ever evolving and maybe this type has some flexibility.
I really have my doubts about tiling on linoleum. I want to see a test, like how hard do the tiles come off? I'd probably put a bed of mud, then 1/4 cement board, then tile.
Used this method 20 years ago in bathroom and kitchen... No failures, cracked tile or grout cracking yet. 🤞.. buddy worked at tile shop and gave advice ... Before RU-vid.. lol
@@mikev4079 HI I there. wow 20 years. great to know. I bought tiles today, I had no room to purchase a big sheet of cement backer board. my bathroom floor has old square vinyl flooring from the 1970s and they are extremely glued tight onto a concrete floor. will I be able to tile straight over them without using backer boards ?
@@alexkonoplya I’m with you. Do it right or don’t do it at all. This guy does some shotty work on his channel sometimes. Just wanted to put a disclaimer out for his fans.
@@JoJo-op5xy this is probably cheaper and easier but won’t last very long. Maybe a year or two until tiles start poping off (most likely a lot sooner). Linoleum is to smooth to properly adhere too. -licensed tile contractor
We look forward to watching you redping tile in a year or two. There is a reason this isn't recommended! On the flip side, I am digging the color palette.
Stop putting wrong ideas into home owners. If the glue of the linoleum starts to peel out from under it compromises the integrity of the tile. It will last for a couple of years but it won’t be as sturdy in the long run. I have personally taken out many floors done this way and it only causes problems in the long run, in bid price for the tiler, and on the new owner side that has to deal with scammers who don’t do the projects correctly for a quick fix and flip
Fact: just about every FLIP house has all kinds of work where very little or no proper PREP work was done. Flippers are all out cosmetics - they rarely invest in guenuine refurbishing. Proper prep work is the reason ceramic tile over linoleum can & does work.
“Ugh, this room has ugly wallpaper” “Just put new drywall over it, it’ll be fine!” We need to not normalize this “coverup” bs. If you’re going to do a job, do it right! Stuff like this is why rehabers get a bad rap.
Music is a tad loud to your commentary. As an experienced newborn father to experienced newborn father, the misses doesn’t want to hear anything extra so toggling the volume button is a must! 🙃 Keep up the good work brother!
I live in a rental which I know is my forever home. Been here 18 years, and am 65, so yeah, I am here. As it is a rental, it has linoleum over linoleum where there's been breakage, etc. Some places have three layers of linoleum and has cracked again. That's how I know how many layers there are. I guess I should remove it all the way down, right? Do you have you got a video that shows how to do that?
@@sharifbenyisrael6493 for one there's usually particle board underlayment for vinyl, tile unless using epoxy thinner and grout properly water can get trapped between the tile and linoleum. Best practice of plywood then cement board comes out cheaper anyways... Epoxy is expensive to do it right!
@@Est-pw9ft on concrete or wood? Concretes easiest, cut and pull then scrape. If wood sub, you'll be replacing the wood sub then new vinyl on top, your really not removing vinyl alone from wood sub
I've been doing flooring for over 40yrs and can tell you that installing over vinyl is definately a bad idea. Vinyl being a sealed surface means there's isn't any way for the thinset (cement) to bond to the vinyl. Sure it will hold for maybe a year or two and then fine cracks will appear and eventually break. Tiles need to be installed over a solid surface of at least 1 1/2" subfloor ( plywood is not acceptable) because it is not flexible. On top of that, I didn't see you screw in 3in screws into the joists to minimize any movement in the floor. With all the available information out there, it's inexcusable to do work like this and it mislead DIY'ers. In my opinion, if you can't do the job right, don't do it at all.
Thats a fair point my friend, but in your 40 years experience, if the sanding process was done on a vinyl sheet floor, which was perfectly fixed flat to a concrete floor and LVT were installed on top with HT adhesive, would that be acceptable without removing vinyl underneath?
LINED UP TILES - For the insane number of people complaining abou 12:09 t the 'grout lines not lining up' . . .🙄: This guy used 12x18 tiles. They are MEANT to be staggered. He did an excellent job. You saw this video bc you googled tiling. Now go goigle tile sizes & styles. 🤨
I am currently renovating my master bath with this flooring... I watched this video. I ripped up the old stuff and did it right. Nobody should follow this advice lol
Watching this for a powder room project. I just needed the basics of how to do it. I knew the tile had to be roughed up for adhesion, but had never seen levelers before. I learn something new with each video on topics I am interested in learning about. Thank you.
I’d recommend directional troweling perpendicular to the long side of a large tile. Very important step collapsing the ridges press down and wiggle left and right. Don’t just rely on the leveling clips to collapse the ridges!
If you collapse the ridges before using the levelers they don't level as well. I agree though but in my experience the levelers do nothing after a tile is pushed down properly (using large format tile mortar anyway) since they are so heavy. They do hold it in place nicely however. He didn't move the tiles enough to really collapse the ridges in this video. They have the newer California aka euro trowel that collapses easier with a small movement and that is what I use now.
Do this experiment . Take a piece of vinyl flooring and tile it , give it 24 hrs , do the same on a piece of concrete . I bet the one on the vinyl will peel off easily by just pull it, the one on concrete you will need a hammer
run your Circular Saw 3/8in deep and cut the 1/4in play wood in 2ft sections and that linoleum and plywood will pop off in 10min. edit: if you were to use this method then take the extra step and prime and floor with a tile on tile primer. :)
get yourself a grouting bucket kit, comes with a bucket with rolers for squeezing out the water from the sponge, and a sponge with a handle. Makes grouting 10x easier and faster, and much easier to clean up. Also much easier on the hands as it keeps them dry, instead of wet and covered in grout which is essentially colored cement
HI I there. wow 20 years. great to know. I bought tiles today, I had no room to purchase a big sheet of cement backer board. my bathroom floor has old square vinyl flooring from the 1970s and they are extremely glued tight onto a concrete floor. will I be able to tile straight over them without using backer boards ?
So if this is okay to do why wouldn't you just put down linoleum before tiling instead of Hardibacker or Shluter? Its thinner faster and cheaper to put down. I don't know about this.
I appreciate you making this video. I’m in Texas, my home has old school terrazzo linoleum that’s been ruined by asbestos tiles, as well as having black mastic (asbestos glue) underneath the linoleum. Well the foundation has settled causing the toilet to float over the floor by a half inch since the flange is cast iron. It’s way too expensive to change out the pipe. So tile is my best bet. This video is very very helpful.
Tile needs a mud job or at least concrete board underneath. The tiles will crack over time. Your setting tile essentially on plywood sub floor. That’s no good.
Missed the cut in and sealant steps. Sealing the tile after grouting will help prevent cracks or discoloration. Also degreaser again after sanding maybe? I worked as a tile guy from age 15 to 22. We never did a bathroom without first laying hardy backer (unless the floor was concrete) but we also almost did new construction. I'm skeptical but for a small project, like a bathroom, you could probably get away with this.
Scraping off the black mastic glue underneath that vinyl is going to take you a long time. And sometimes you don't want to because of health and safety issues.
Cool video - thanks for sharing! Would be great if you go into a little more depth/detail for a video like this. For example: 1. what grit did you use on your sandpaper? 2. did you have to do anything with the toilet floor flange? Did you have to raise it up so that the toilet would still sit flush? 3. what did you do for your floor transitions? Keep up the great work man - love your videos!
Here’s a question for you if you have something really old bathroom tiles, how would you remove some if you want to put down wood in the bathroom instead
