@hondafanic0203 The videos I make are based on the cars that come into the shop so I would have to have the same car come in needing the same service to make that video for you and to be honest Integra head gaskets don't go out all that often in my experience so it may be some time before I make that video. However I JUST remembered that the engine in my video "Dissecting an Engine" IS an Integra 1.8 so you might want to check that out.
Very well explained. Good to see the appreciation of what engineers want to get from preloaded bolt joint. A few comments from engineering point of view: 1. the most accurate way to get the correct bolt preload is with initial tightening. re-tightening torque gives you much bigger torque scatter even if the torque wrench is set to initial torque. 2. by cleaning the bolt thread with a wire wheel you are making two things: you make the thread surface a lot rougher which results in high thread friction that decreases your bolt preload; you increase the embedding losses in the bolt thread which results in the bolt relaxation (some loss of preload) by flattening the spikes in surface roughness.
@mickeygovender Well Carburetors and fuel injection are 2 different things, you comment involves both. Rest assured I am working every day to make more and better videos so stay tuned. For the moment I'm a slave to what comes through my door so please be patient. Thanks for the comment.
Believe it or not the foot pounds only refer to the force being applied to the bolt not the tightness of the bolt itself. That is why the guy tells us to clean thread etc. he is smart not dumb at all.
@@socknetea I have seen people with decades of "experience" who can't do shit. That doesn't prove anything. It might be that his headgasket will last 5 years instead of 10-20.
Actually I wouldn't use one of those torque angle gauges for 90 degrees. They can slip and it's far easier to just make a mark with a sharpie and turn it 90 degrees. For angles that aren't 90, 180, and 270 degrees, then I resort to the stupid torque angle gauge.
That doesn't make sense. Trig functions relate an angle to its two-dimensional components. The torque required to achieve a particular angle beyond the first torque depends on friction and material deformation. Tightening by angle is generally more uniform than tightening to the same measured torque anyway, which is the point.
@mrjost55 Thanks for noticing, I do put a lot of effort into the show and it's nice to hear when people like it. This is a bit more than a hobby for me, if I have my way I'll be doing this for some time to come. Thanks for the comment.
@jihan2003 Cool, I love international comments. There is only 2 things I would like from my "fame", one to support my family and second to help those that need it, simple really. Thanks for your comment, I think I'll post it as comment of the day, thanks.
Metric always beats American measurements. We civilized folk prefer to have a system which converts sizes (centimeter/meter) in consistent magnitudes. Metric: 10 milimeters in one centimeter 100 centimeters in one meter 1000 meters in one kilometer. The same numbers apply for weights and fluids. American: You guys don't even have anything smaller than inches, you just start making fractions. 12 inches in one foot 3 feet in one yard 1760 yards in a mile The weights and fluids are also all over the place.
Most of us (American car guys) have them memorized quite well and cubic inches measure displacement more precisely than liters, although that's a different topic.
ChrisHallett83 because when you say a 350 chevy is 5.7 liters you've undersized the engine by 35cc. I was not comparing cc to ci, but more of liter to ci. cc is even more acurate than ci although that's a large number to stick to the side of the car.
Civilized is the man that identified and complimented those that are "past the stone ages" and use metric even though he's from a place that uses American measurements. Not the one that blatantly insults an entire nation of people that do, as you have now.
@archer435 Lastly, I would like it noted that I did mention using a thread chaser on the block and not a tap as a tap would damage the threads in the block. Once again I appreciate your input but in the future I would ask that you not phrase them as personal attacks or infer that I "failed", as I mentioned in my first video, there are lots of ways of doing things and I respect that, I only ask that you respect me in return.
@DARKSCOPE001 I appreciate your input it means a lot. Thing is that I can't change the video once I post it other than an annotation and I feel that would be too much for such an explanation. I have noted your comment however and if I can incorporate it into a future video I will.
@alphared11 No worries man, I know I'm not perfect and I don't pretend to be. My viewers (including you) keep me honest and up on any mistakes I might make, in fact I count on it. I appreciate you taking the time to comment and pointing out the things you did.
Eric, you've helped me countless times, saved me thousands of dollars, uncalualble hours, painful headaches and fits of rage. I pass all of this information to my boys, get them greasy and use the saved money on fun stuff for us! Thanks
@diorije You actually answered your own question, the tap is to create threads whereas the thread chaser is there to clean the threads. Great question and thanks for the comment.
@bunning63 I'm glad you enjoyed the video, I so often get comments on things that I missed or things that people disagreed on it's nice to get a comment like this one thanks very much.
@kingxaces22 I make videos based on the cars that come into the shop so it's hard to fill requests like yours since the same car has to come in needing the same service. If one does come in however I'll do my best to make a video if I have the time to shoot it.
@jjenson2006 Interesting method but how would you see the bolt head while you turned it? You really should come up to torque in one motion not several trying to read a mark on a bolt head, I'm not saying your method would not work but I believe the use of the tool would be more accurate and yield a better result. Thanks for the comment.
@robertbaxley A tap is designed to MAKE threads, you don't want to do that in this application so you use what is called a 'thread chaser' which is for CLEANING threads and won't alter the existing threads. I do what I can to try and keep up with comments but it's getting more difficult, my priority is to the website and my forum so I always go there first to answer questions if that helps you.
@CravinMorehead420 I try to be as accurate as I can remember but I usually forget something, I really should start writing scripts for these things. Thanks for your comment, BTW it made COTD on my FB and Twitter.
@LeathanEre Personally I LOVE those wrenches, I wasn't kidding when I said they are some of my favorite tools. I prefer the clicker type because of cost. You can set up the digital type to beep when the specific torque is reached which may be a better indication since you sometimes hear that "ping" when you tighten some fasteners that can mask the "click" that you are looking for with a clicker type. Thanks for the great question and comment.
@NETWizzJbirk I've used a torque stick myself and have been happy with the result but I've also made a video on torquing wheels for the very reasons you mention. Thanks for the comment.
@alphared11 Well first I did torque those bolts to 72lbft, I think I mentioned the mistake before I got started. As for the human torque wrench, it's not me so I'll use a torque wrench thanks.
@MrTDM09 I'm glad I'm able to help with your automotive career, the world could use a few more good technicians in my opinion. Thanks for the comment and good luck with the K series, sounds like fun.
Eric is one of the few that will actually explain everything the way it should be done. Sharing knowledge is always great especially with those who are especially motivated about learning!! Thanks Eric;)
Good morning Eric , I'd like to start by saying thank you for taking your time to make these videos. This is really good material for many of us that have a different profession but love working a cars. I have a 1995 Nissan 240sx that comes equipped with a KA24DE 2.4L DOHC motor that comes with 155 hp stock. I turboed this engine and upped the horsepower to about 310 hp. Now I've come across the limit for the stock internals. I bought a spare block that I plan to build. It will be the first
@fmaytorena1 The videos I produced on what comes into the shop so it's hard to fill such requests but in your case I would remove the head and see if I can get a vice grip or something on what's left of the bolt and twist it out. If you can't gain purchase then you may have to drill it out or use and 'easy out' to extract the remains. Good luck.
Eric the car guy, I freaking love your videos. You're so informative and in depth. You always treat cars right, you the bomb man keep doing your thing! 19Years old and replacing my valve stem seals this weekend. Watched your videos for some insight along with a bunch of research. I'll let you know how it goes!
Thank you for the lesson. I've been wanting to put a y8 on my y7 engine with vtec and was worried about tourge and messing it up. This made me feel more comfortable
I appreciate your videos Eric. As a do-it-yourself kinda guy, I am prepping for my first custom Engine build based on a 460 Big Block Ford. It's great to have tips and re-torquing techniques like this when I need them regardless of make/model. Thank you!
@fastvpbt1 Not really no, it's the smaller fasteners with small torque specs you have to watch out for as they can be tricky but the bigger fasteners like these usually aren't the problem if treated right.
I love your tag line: stay dirty, that rocks. I've been retired from turning wrenches for approx. 10 years now and almost half of that time since, you can look at my hands and tell what I did for a living. Thank you for voicing every single point I ever tried to tell other mechanics about the proper use of a torque wrench. Not to be a know it all, but there is always a right and wrong way to do anything, and you hit on every single one that I ever learned. I always check your vid's first if I'm not sure if I'm remembering every detail about a certain repair I haven't done in some time, as I've found you seem to give the most concise and detailed info in such an understandable way. Thanks again. Later, bye.
Hey Eric, first of all, very grateful for you taking the time and effort to educate all of us. secondly i have given my car in to a very well known workshop for a complete engine overhaul and after watching your video I'm concerned about the torquing of the bolts on the head, not sure if they use tools similar to yours anyways, very informative and I'm going to suggest they follow your method, I'm subscribed and will be tuned in for more. Thank you once again.
@skylartjsayers Yes it is. In fact I was making a video on it's problems as well. It turns out it's also having computer problems so I'm going to wait till that is resolved to finish the video and post it.
@Brincandopabajo If the fasteners are not properly torqued it may cause the gasket to leak is about the only thing I can think of but if that does happen you have to do the work all over again.
@mickeygovender Check the injectors to see if they are operating correctly. Start with a noid light to see if it's getting the proper signal, if it is then you probably have a bad injector.
@branco445 If you just worked on it and now you have a noise the best course of action is to go back and recheck your work including the timing belt tension.
@915Mustang Your right I didn't and I'm not saying that isn't a good idea but I've done it this way for years without any problems. Thanks for the comment.
@branco445 If I'm honest I don't have a 'magic bullet' for you on this one, go back and check your work and make sure everything is installed and connected correctly, also make sure you put it back in time properly.
@spelunkerd Use it only when the bolt is going to seal a passage, on some engine blocks the threaded holes for the water pump go into the water passage, this would be an appropriate time for sealant. Cylinder head bolts should NEVER have sealant put on them however as they don't seal a passage but rather fasten the cylinder head to the block. Consult the service manual whenever you have a question about the use of sealant in a particular application just to be safe.
@josiqvideos09 Sounds like they want you to seat it into position first but I'm also confused that they don't have you tighten it to 55ftlbs again, that's weird. You might want to look for a different source of information just to be sure, factory manuals are the best really.
@kevtay1000 No need to replace the bolts they are not torque to yield bolts. If there is a torque spec with a degree measurement as opposed to a torque value those are usually stretch bolts and require replacement.
@WhammyMechanics I think your neglecting the torsional forces in the metal and the 'slop' at the connections that will effect the reading, granted this may be minimal but they are a factor to be considered.
@LuieDiaz1 After a head gasket job you will have smoke for a while due to the contamination that gets onto the parts during assembly and disassembly, it takes a little while for it to burn off. If you suspect a head gasket issue I suggest you test for it instead of speculating, watch the Diagnosing A Cooling System Overheat video for details on that test.
Thanks for all your videos. I'm a DIY and the information you go over often fills in the gaps and holes that trained technicians just "know" and are not necessarily in the repair manuals.
I would like to thank you for the way you are explaining procedure in proper way to replace gasket and torquing head bolts . Iv`e watched probally 100 or more videos on this due to me having to replace head on my 2000 Honda Accord 2.3 Coupe . Very detailed in procedure . much easier to understand and follow , I just hope I can remember where all the vacuum hoses go to when I get to that stage . Again Thank You , will follow more videos to do more on my car .
@MYDRAGGIN84 Not really normal, if it's a Canadian model then the headlights are designed to come on when the ignition is put in the ON position. That should have nothing to do with the starting circuit however, perform the check that I recommend and see what you find.
i learned my lesson to lubricate the bolts and keep a steady torquing when worked on my 2003 Altima (TTY Bolts). i broke the bolt with that pinging noise because i did a stop and go. Got lucky the broken one came out real easy with a pick tool. love the video
@bigsteve84769 I think as long as they have oil on the threads when you install them you are good as I don't see the benefit of soaking them because the metal will not absorb the oil in any way. Thanks for the comment.
I bought a cheap brush kit with brass, nylon, and steel brushes from harbor freight and cleaned every bolt as well as sprayed them down with brake cleaner and lubed them with oil as well as the brake cleaner in each hole worked perfect! I also did not have any noise issues with the torquing sequence, but I did buy the 3/4 in torque wrench and 1/2 in torque wrench from harbor freight and worked liked butter.
@flashdkr Something is not right, not sure what it is but it's not right, you may need to use a different gasket but to be honest just tightening things tighter is not really the way to go in my opinion.
@sjohnson4756 I would leave it be personally, if you go back and start all over again you might end up causing a problem, just do it differently next time.
@letxen3 If the new bolts didn't come with washers don't install washers of your own. You could consult the service manual to see if washers were present to begin with if you wanted to be sure.
@sweetlikeADAM I don't think so but it's not a big deal if you do, just keep them in order, the caps are numbered and the direction is noted in the casting where they go back into place.
@9b8 Torque procedures vary depending on application, I have seen some like you suggest, it's really up to the engineers as they put in the time to find out what works best and then write it into their service procedures.
EricTheCarGuy, in my opinion, this is the best video you have posted so far. This video is nothing but WIN. Not only the best video on torquing cylinder head bolts, but it is possibly the best video EVER MADE. I want to show it to both my immediate AND my extended family. You, good sir, make both Ghandi look like a child pornographer. You are more a credit to man kind then Jesus himself. Thank you... THANK YOU
@louiejr03army Sorry I don't know the spec but you would be able to find it in the service manual for that engine, you may be able to find the information on line. Good luck.
