How To Tune Cold Starts | Cold Start Performance [GOLD WEBINAR LESSON] 

You are a great teacher and tuner! I appreciate and pretty sure others do as well that you've decided to share these webinars for free. Thank you and be safe!

Andre: "In NZ we dont actually have emissions testing" "the catalytic converter has been removed, we dont need it, its not in the exhaust system" Me on Google: How do I move to New Zealand Loving the free content, thank you guys for it!

Nice timing since I just started tuning the cold starts on my car. Thanks for the webinar :)

Thank you for the free content! What about throttle opening percentage during cranking?

Thank y’all for the awesome content!!! Are there any additional tips for when the temp is well below 0C such as winter in Alaska? My truck has a block coolant, battery, and oil accumulator heaters so it should be easier. I am using the Holley Sniper TBI unit on a mild 466ci BBF.

Yo I needed this so bad thank you 🙏

Thanks for the vid👌

amazing video,. thank you

Looking forward to tuning my own car shortly!

Thanks Simon got it to start on first crank but the idle is still rough even when warmed up I'm guessing something to do with the base idle?

I live on an island that doesn't have cold winters ( mainly just humid and wet all the time with occasional 60 to 65°F temps) what consideration should i take when tuning cold starts

heya i have a 1jz is200 that I've been adjusting the tune on i am facing an issue when you start the car above 75 deg c the car will start and briefly rev up to 1200rpm then fall down to zero no matter how many times you do it. if you blip the throttle on start up it will return to normal idle do you think this might be tune related or potentially related to post start enrichment or post start ignition offset

In response to your comment about the accessory port (cigarette lighter) shutting down on some cars during cranking. One thing that I have done in the past is to simply use a jumper box that has that port to power a portable wide band controller. This way it is completely independent of the vehicles power supply. Just thought this might be useful for some?

If my car has a lean start up after it warms up, would I change the post start enrich to supply more fuel at warm starts? Are there any other changes I should make? After a while, my car then idles steadily at my target AFR.

My question is do you do remote tuning and also what are the ranges ECU would be a platinum sport

Love it

very good video, some guy in europe showed me this, HALTECH needs to do a proper video on cold start and how to set it up and demonstrate it in all different conditions and temperatures and how it works to get the car started and idle as to anyone desire. I HAVE BEEN TRYING FOR 4 MONTHS! on this bmw turbo conversion to get it started and running as I like, 1st start after three weeks ran perfect with leaking intake gasket just idle very high, 2nd start after head gasket change wrong gasket i may add and intake gasket custom made and fix, after just had looong cranks had loads of very violent back fires before it ran then dies, 3rd start ran after extreme long crank then dies as throttle been applies, now wont start tries to now getting clear flood and fuel limitations and also the odd violent back fire, tps loosing calibration some times donno how voltages within ranges! am about to give up i think they just way over engineered the elite 2500 sometimes things are best kept simple till what needs to be added can be added like hondadata. fuel is there spark and compression, using 335i igniters as they are plug and play, chineese rods, 4g63 85mm weisco pistons 1 mm block over bore to fit, 340lph fuel pump with check valve, knock off areomotive fpr, wbc2 controller, elite2500, 875cc injectors, mack boost controller, aem meth kit, 38mm wastegate, 50mm bov, turbo is a borg warner like gtx55 off a man truck, using BMw x5 throttle body works100%, had 4g63 intake custom to fit. was just about to do the rear diff conversion in the e46 to e60 m5 axles and propshaft and was also going to put some darton performance sleeves in block with some s54 valve springs to up the revs to 10k. its a one off custom project I decided to do in my weekends when not working. Engine n42b20 (valvertronic but disabled) this thing is pissing me off need some drastic help. if you add any more fuel from half of percent it floods and foul the plugs, got rpm, app, tps, camshaft also bear in mind bmw so all hall effect sensors. cant be asked with this thing only reason I bother when it started sounded like a mean and nasty evo grumbling wanting to let loose

I live in Auckland. I have recently purchased a 2003 xr6 ba turbo. Had trouble starting for a month or two read online try pouring hot water on ECU. Tried it begrudgingly one day and it worked. Will crank all you like but not start... Pour a little hot water on top of ecu, will start first try every time.. any ideas? I have heard this means ecu needs replaced I am just curious how it works in first place... Cheers Keep up the good work bro Don't forget to vote in the referendum 🖖

how to tune subaru ecu maf+bov setup?

High-performance Academy We can also keep the engine at the highest output setting. That is the Max-horsepower & torque. And just at the time of starting just start the car at open throttle or half (manually give accelerator leg input) as it worms up it will idle just right.

I know this video is kind of old but I'm hoping you would know the answer I have a 2013 Malibu 2.5 l and I'm trying to bypass the secondary air during cold start where would I start I have HP tuner mpvi2

Very minor, but I also use coolant vs ignition table not only to retard timing on high temps as protection but also increase ignition timing on cold starts to give me stable idle.

To each there own, but whats the advantage over running this car on a Stand alone vs a Reflash.

What if you don't have iacv?

Andre, OE do in fact retard ign angle very heavily during cold start, well beyond TDC and accompanied with very high post start idle, in conjunction of a air pump in order to heat up the catalytic converter.

"customers" often ignorant, and just want to blame the "tuna" when a car which arrived for a tune, in summer, driven some hours to get to you, require an injector change for their hardware spec, car tuned elsewhere previously, you do the tune, then some months later, weather changes significantly for freezing temps, then gets argumentative, "why was'nt cold start done........." blah blah.. There's simply no hope with such ignorant customers.. You offer them the adjustment for no charge, and say you need the car from cold, leave overnight to cool from their several hour journey to you, leave for a day or so, but thats not good enough for them...They just call you names and blame you for their previous poor cold start tune.. Not a car you had ever seen start from cold. There's nothing you can do for customers like this. Unreasonable, idiots. This is reality at times with the more ignorant customers. They have no idea whats involved or the hardware "they have chosen" for their modified car, yet tell you "you should have known this............" There's no hope with people like this. This is the crappy side of things from a tuners perspective. Some folks cannot be helped. Lost cause.

The basic operation of the system should be the basis of explaining tuning . Haphazard rambling is confusing and a time waster.