HOW TO Use a Drawer Routerbit 

I emailed ENT about the incorrect instructions. I would' have also asked for a few router bits to give away. Unfortunately, they didn't reply. Interestingly there's a video linked in their instructions and there the bit height is also set to 10mm.

Thank you, Marius, for this video explanation for the use of this bit. I have stayed away from using it because I was warned it was difficult to set up. This really helped me understand it. Thanks for sharing. Felix

Great book for a beginner . ru-vid.comUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ this book really starts from the beginning, as in it explains what basic tools are and how to use them. But when it gets to the art of creating joints and how and when to use them this book really starts to teach you something. At least that was my experience.

The managing editor of "Wood Working Guild Of America" (WWGOA) made a video in 2018, telling us how we need to make many cuts and router adjustments to get the correct setup! And he is not the only one with many years of woodworking experience who have made similar videos with the same "there is no other way than test cut over and over again until you happen to find the correct setting (- and have a stack of sandpaper ready)" way to use this great lock system bit. Well done, Marius, you both came up with the formel and shared it with us! (Y) You and Matthias Wandel's are a lot alike in the way you approach woodworking, with a lot more science and logic, and eagerness to find new solutions, than most of your "colleagues" here on YT. It's always a pleasure to watch the process as well as the outcome (Y) PS: If you haven't seen his DIY Pantorouter, I really recommend it! :-) Alles gute aus Dãnemark (y)

I recently purchased a drawer router bit similar to the one in this video I am very happy that this video was made. Thank you!!!!!! From Montana

Thanks Marius, very timely as I'm about to build some drawers and plan to use my drawer bit. I'll have to watch this a couple more times and build a spreadsheet.

Hi Marius I see several times the videos and follow every recommendation to a perfect joint on in my drawers!! Thanks you for the great explanation cheers from Argentina

Glad you started back on videos :) I learn a few new tips and get a bit of a laugh at the same time :) nice work

Thank you for the math / geometry lesson. Seems like a lot of work for one box, but a real time saver if your making many. Think I need to start working in metric, fractional inches complicate the whole process unnecessarily.

If you're not worried about visible dowels, you could always dowel the sides after glue-up to really strengthen the joint. And like someone else mentioned, a ply bottom would essentially eliminate that failure mode anyway. Awesome video!

I really appreciate your presentation in Sketchup. That helped me understand how the bit height and fence position affect the joint much better than watching someone say “See this? I have to lower the bit height…” You also demonstrated that while having overhanging edges on the front is possible, it isn’t practical. At least that’s what I saw.

Great video! Excellent discussion on how to setup this bit. Thanks for posting

These are the kind of instructions I like. Thank you.

Hi, Thank you very much for this tutorial. I bought this, but did not use it jet. Now I know how. Keep it safe. Willy from Belgium. 😷😷😷

Nice to see you back with another great instructional video.

Thanks for giving us the correct instructions!

Brilliant video. It explains setting up very clearly and precisely. Thank you very much.

Nice video Marius! Well explained and really good camera angles/lighting/editing. Thumbs up!

Excellent video. I think once you put these calculations into a spreadsheet, it would be very quick to create a cut list for any size drawer.

Great video, thanks for sharing. Given the fact the draw would have a base, this joint seems to well strong enough for any draw.

Awesome video Marius! I was looking into one of these for a while... You make me pull the trigger! :D

As usual. Great video brilliantly explained. Thank you

BRAVO Marius, well-done video. Impressive, your mathematics and skill with the stretch program are very interesting. Not to discount the importance of what you have just shown us in this video I was watching and never set up my bits with mathematics as you have just demonstrated so skillfully. I have for many years used lock miter bits for many, many jobs I have performed over the years and I have found in all of this type of bit or shaper cutters there are only two very important measurements. the height and thickness of the objective cut in question. often times it is the actual size of the material. when this concept is clearly understood one can easily rais the cutter to the needed height and then cutting through the safety face board arrive at the targeted depth of cut. All in all, I very much so enjoyed your video.

Really enjoyed this especially the testing

Thank you Marius. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂

Thanks for the video. I enjoy watching your videos. Creative success and health to you.

With some ply on the base of the drawer that failure mode would be eliminated, I'd reckon. It'd be interesting to see how the joint would fail when you load a drawer up with a load of junk, I'd reckon it'd be plenty strong.

Holy math Batman that is alot of setup but once done and figured out makes setup for the future projects. You could setup a spreadsheet with the formulas you use and have it done all for you faster. Great video and great explanation, thanks.

Brilliant video, Marius. Thank you!

Sehr interessante Fräser. Die stehen auch noch auf meiner Wunschliste 😊👍🏻

I'm definitely thinking like a proper constructor now. When Marius was explaining how the calculations work, it immediately occurred to me you could use the second mode to make a single-piece drawer front. If you were to want a permanently captive drawer, you could also do it on the back (and then build the cabinet around the drawers to capture them). If you were building something like a component/fastener/hardware cabinet, this would be ideal as such drawers don't need to support heavy things and you usually need to make them in quantity. This would make turning out a few dozen small drawers a LOT faster than most other joinery methods.

Der Ton macht wohl die Musik. Zehn Minuten nach meiner Anfrage bei ENT habe ich eine Anleitung sowie Hinweise auf Videos erhalten. Bin kein RU-vidr oder Firmeninhaber. Danke ENT!

I have this bit and have not used because of the lack of competent instructions. I will give it a go. Thanks

Awesome stuff Marius! 😃👍🏻👊🏻

Wie immer Top Marius👍 Mach weiter so

Lots of numbers but stil worth to watch. Nice job Marius

I would rather overcut it slightly, so you have a little overhang on the end side. That way you can easily remove and make it flush with a router bit. Nice video again!

Great clear explanation. Thank you.

I'm curious but confident all the drawers I made out of 1/2" baltic birch for clients over the years are still working just fine and I just did a simple rabbit joint and pinned from the front. Todays glue is amazing and when you use mechanical slides I just don't think there is much force on the joints. The expense of making box joints or dovetails on kitchen drawers Is high and honestly how often do you open a drawer and admire the dovetails... once, when the manufacture points them out after installing the kitchen.

Im really enjoy your video... Its awesome your explanantion its very clearly ..

Love the outakes, very funny(humoures)

I used a similar miter lock bit to make boxes - all eight edges were cut with the bit. The interlocking of the pieces was such that I had to assemble/glue all six sides at once. Your bit would allow for two steps, which would be much easier. Another thing to be careful of when using either bit style is that water based glue causes wood to expand. When the joints are long (>300mm, 12") you need to spread the glue and assemble quickly or the joint surfaces swell before you finish and may not fit properly. It's really bad with MDF.

Superb explanation.

Teacher: "What do you want to do when you grow up?" Kid: "Dunno... defenitely nothing where I'll need maths... maybe woodworking..." Marius: 🤔 "Hold my beer..." 🤭😅

great video....thanks for the great design experience you shared. Which version of solid works you use?

For such a complex setup I wouldn't be inclined to use that router bit honestly and then to get such test result as you displayed to us on the stress test, I'm not seeing how this would be of any use to cabinetry joiners and makers. Thanks for the information though. I always enjoy watching your videos ever since you were making them in German.

Very helpful. Thanks.

So super nice work

Bom teste, obrigado pelo seu trabalho. 🇧🇷

Thank you for taking the time to produce this video. I have been wanting to pick up one of those bits and you just saved me hours of experimenting :) Do you feel that reinforcing the joint with a dowel would mitigate any of the weaknesses, or would that just be overkill in your opinion?

Great details very well explained been following your videos and all great detailed information on your channel. What's the name of that router bit and where did ya buy it? Think dove tail jig will go if I get this

Thx man for information and i got attracted to the way you write number 1 like number 7 if you were not tolking i wouldn't know you meant number 1 😂

Marius, could you make some screen shots of the cad drawing withe the dimensions showing the relationship of the bit to the stock. In the video it was difficult to see the numbers. And post them in the description so we could down load them. Just a suggestion that I am sure many would appreciate. This is the best explanation of how to set up this bit I have seen. Thank you.😁🛫

Nice demo, Marius~! Definitely looks like a quick method to batch out drawers, but yes, box joints or dovetails would be much stronger. Dependent on what you need, of course. Love the outtakes. Looks like you also suffer from what I call "vocal dyslexia". I do that all the time~! :-)

Thanks man this drawer bit is the perfect solution to a problem I have been having I re finish and re purpose alot of old furniture that the drawers have been misused the dove tails are broken someone has tried a bad repair on it ,, now I can simply rabbit out bad ends glue up new piece leaving the drawer front alone use your new router bit idea !! Perfect solution to my problem,s a grand idea thanks could you please leave a link were I mite find one

My sincere respect!

What do you think about box joints for drawers vs dovetail joints?

Could you use your correct fitting test piece as a gauge going forward to set the bit height in future?

Can you still router in a dado for the drawer bottoms with this joint? Do you do before or after you make the lock joint? Thanks

Best video... greetings from Pakistan.

I'm using this platform to ask a question: I watched your video on the Scissor lift a couple of years ago. I would now like to make one now, so I was hoping that you might have released plans for yours. I see a lot of plans on the internet but they don't go as high as yours. If you do sell the plans I would really be interested. I have also copied this request on the original lift video. Thank you.

Hello Marius, I've been making RU-vid videos for several years. But only recently have videos about woodworking! One of my first: The drawer gluing cutter from ENT. I bought one and had problems with the setting. Unfortunately, there were few solutions among German-speaking RU-vidrs. After I posted the video online a few days ago, I received a reference to your video!!!😍 The surprise was great... given such a spatial and temporal distance... still the same solutions and ideas! I would like to add your great video as a link to mine, if that's ok with you? I think your channel should definitely become better known in German-speaking countries! Kind regards from a pensioner in Odenbach, Germany🙂 P.S.: The first thing I did was of course subscribe to your channel!👍

I think that their instructions account for some sanding to make the joints flush. You wouldn't do that on veneered plywood, but if you were using solid wood you probably would. Either way, this video is just superb.

Nice! Unfortunately I can't find the router bit anywhere. Care to share the article no. or a product link?

Sounds like a bad bit company if they can’t even get their own math right. Then they don’t respond. This is a perfect video of what NOT to buy. Thanks! I will avoid this like COVID-19! lol

Having seen the failure mode, wouldn't a simple rabbet or rebate joint work just as well? Also I've seen it pointed out on youtube that dovetails are the joint of choice for drawer front and backs as they're intended to resist the pulling forces on the draw. Thanks for the video.

personally I have the chinese version of this type of router bit .. the setup is also a crazy thing .. it's helps for making joint ... but you always need to make some tests before making the real cuts .. also I think that it is necessary to slightly reduce the wood before attacking it with the bit .. it is a little hard

very nice

Excellent video Marius. This bit has been around for some time now along with the Lock Miter bit. They both have some of the same characteristics in set-up. However, even though I have used both of the said bits for many years now I have stopped using them in drawer construction for the reason I have been complaining about for years now of having mortise and tenon joint so tight that they must be hammered into place THUS "Where is the Gule going to go?" That's Right Pushed right out of the joint itself where it is supposed to be to keep things in place. Look at your joint it is wood to wood there is no place for Glue. And are you totally agreeable with a .003mm film of glue in the joint? Do you really think that that thin film is a sufficient amount of glue to do the job it is intended for? I think these bits are really good inventions but should be pinned with gun nails or brad pins because there is no good space for any decent amount of glue to do its intended job of bonding the two surfaces together as one piece. No, dovetails or box joints for me in drawer construction now and forever. These bits are used with gun nails no glue is needed because there is no place for the glue in this tight joint. I know it still works and has been used for many years now but I'm not talking as a customer buying home depot kitchen cabinets but as a knowledgeable woodworker of good cabinetry construction not just how to make something and sell it and hope it holds together for a while.

You could always add a couple of splines at 45 degrees to increase the strength.

Great video! Loove the fact that you did not shy away from what people seem to call math (calculating is mechanical, math isn't). But I have to say, this: length and width end with -th, height ends with a -t, so you pronounce it HAYT with a TEEEEE! I know you are not a native, and neither am I. I have heard native Anglophones make this mistake, and it makes me cringe every time. That being said, keep up the good work!

All draws only experience stress in 2 direction, push or pull and not from the side or diagonally. If you always orientate the draw so that the longer 2 sides are the front and back, the shorter sides literally hook into the front and back giving more than enough strength against the push pull stress. I have this cutter gathering dust in a draw because it had no instructions of how to set it up and I got frustrated trying to work it out This joint should give years of service if done correctly. Thanks for showing us how to. As an edit ENT is something different in England so I couldn't look up there website

Давно пользуюсь этой ящечной фрезой, соединение прочное.

Can you put a stop collar on the router bit at the correct height so it's easily repeatable after changing bits?

I think my brain is about to explode...

Hi: what do you call that guage used to set the router table fence? I'd like to get one, thank you!

I would assume that when you integrate the drawer bottom in the frame, it will not brake. :-)

Very interesting)) I assumed that in Germany they use the NX Siemens program more often)

Would this bit work with a plunge router? I unfortunately do not have a router table. But I do have a festool plunge router.

Thanks for a great video Marius, it's a neat router bit, but I suspect it's quite expensive? Economies of scale though I suppose, if you're making lots of drawers, it'd be a good investment. Out of interest, what is the brown faced board that you're using called?

lol. grate video and grate routerbit but you have to look this video direktly after Lauras video, how to avoid math :) I love math, so everythink is perfect. Thanks for showing Gruß Sascha

Give Miller Dowels a try, they are fast and strong.

Hallo Marius, ich nehme an, du nutzt den ENT 16270. Für diesen Fräser muss die Höhe genau 9,79 mm sein. Der Teil vom Ende bis zur Schrägen ist 3.97 mm. Die Schräge hat einen Winkel von 30 bzw. 90 Grad. Die Höhe des schrägen Schneidenteils ist 1.85 mm. Diese Angaben hat ENT mir zur Verfügung gestellt. Ich habe es auch ausprobiert. Ich nutze, wie du eine digitale Lehre und stelle damit auf 9,80 mm ein. Dann passt es perfekt.

Do you have a link for that router "bit" =) would really like to try it out at home =) . Love your videoes =)

16:20 Wenn du den Boden noch falzt und ein Bodeneinleimst, dann hält das bestimmt nochmal mehr aus 😉

Suggest a roll of pain paper to cover the bench when gluing stuff up . . .

Can you do a drawer demo with a domino and similar destructive test?

Wouldn't a strong bottom have stabilized the whole drawer and the joint would just have to withstand parts of the pulling force while the drawer is opened?

Ui, du hast das Video ausgeschnippst :-0 LG

Whats the name of the bit?

Only thing that I don't like about joint like this is the mating surfaces are always end grain to long grain if used with solid wood.

Hi Marius, this time you lost me, too many numbers. I guess I will watch it a couple of times ☺. Thanks ...Guenther

similar settings to miter lock router bit

You can also use that bit for the bottom

the router bit makes for a beautiful joint, yet there's relatively much end grain which compromises the strength

I was thinking about getting one of these bits until I watched this video, but I quit computer programming when my TRS-80 died, and I hate math. Someone just give me a hatchet!

Are you still happy with your cool Hammertablesaw?

GOOD

I was just thinking about the large amount of money I spend on German tools here in the U.S. like Festool, Bessey, Bosch, Knipex, etc... Those tools are probably sold in Germany's version of Harbor Freight or Home Depot...

Good explanation on how to set up the router for this bit, but I think I'll stick to dovetails.