How To Use a Laser to Measure Auto Body Car Frame Damage Collision Repair Equipment Universal DIY 

Awesome I’ve spent hours looking for a way to measure my frame rails to factory spec but everything was expensive! This seems like a great work around ! Thank you for this amazing time saving video best thing I’ve seen in weeks 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻

Your video was an answer to a prayer !! I am restoring a 60's hot rod and I am mounting a unibody car to a new chassis. This is an awesome way to get a lot better measurement than using the old method. Thank you ever so much !!

Thank you! I like this tutorial and how you explained it! Very useful information especially when you don't have access to engine bay dimensions.

Thank you for teaching us personally Jeremy and I appreciate it just a awesome video

excellent, I never thought of an accurate way as what I learned from this video. Thank you

Thank you for explaining how the entire mesure process works please don't stop making videos keep them coming!!!

Thank you for a very informative video.

Excellent tutorial on unibody repairs, and also for using lasers, for taking and reading measurements, and for pointing out the mechanics of how cars are assembled ✔

Best explain video on YT! Thank you for sharing your acknowledge!

Very well done. Thanks for the detail and professionalism!

Best explanation I found... just bought a laser to be able to put in place a Miev front... thank you!

Absolutely incredible! Thank you!

This very useful as I am moving from light maintenance repairs. Simple explanation easy to understand.

Excelente explicação ! Ter conhecimento de geometria das máquinas ajuda a transferir conhecimento também aos veículos. Os veículos são montados através de gabaritos e pontos de fixação que geometricamente estão corretos e padronizados com mínimo de variações em milímetros. Sugiro que faça uma vídeo auxiliando ao conhecimento dos mecânicos e curiosos .... X,Y,Z. Acho que consegui explicar minha sugestão !!! Parabéns !!!!

More damage assessment videos like this please!

very interesting, nice work!

Great information! Thanks, Gene

Thank you for the education. I believe everyone wants to perform the right way repairs if they know and knew how.......thank for your information going to home depot to get the red and green laser today.

Some good info mate! I just learned something new 👍👍

Your amazing. Great creativity and awesome videos you publish. Thank you

I like it and I'm going to give it 👍 because I see that it has good content even though I've only seen two videos and subscribed thanks ... and blessings

Absolutely Brilliant 👍💯

Best measurement tutorial ✔. Thank U

Very good job and idea . Thank you so much

Excellent video. Very well done.

Very good, easy to follow.

What a great video!!!!! Thank you

Just found your channel. excellent!!!

Great information you are right keep videos coming your very smart great advice

Very interesting video. The main limitation with a laser seems to be that it's hard to see in daylight, so it really works best indoors. Audio was still quiet, particularly at the start, so hopefully, your clip-on mic will sort out the audio level. You can always use Handbrake to boost the level if needed. It made a big difference to the short video I filmed on my iPhone. Looking forward to your next video. I'm sure it will have something interesting.

Woooo trabajas exelente yo empiezo en este arte y es fascinante me encantaría tener un maestro como usted saludos 🤗

great explanation! thank you

Wow, so logic now after your explanation

Very informative. It is pleasure to learn from your videos. Thank you.

that was great on how to set up then measure out how straight or how out the damage is on the vehicle triple thumps up

Great video with lots of good helpful info! Would be nice to see a video of what you do once you figured out rails or tower moved. Like where do you make the correction, where you attach to and pull in which direction 💪💪

Be sure you are on a level surface that would help, but besides that you are pretty darn good considering you say you are not a professional body man. And the stuff you build is incredible for someone at home. It’s crazy good

Very good help, exelent!

Good idea my friend!!!

Great info keep up the good work.

This is gold seriously thank you

Very nice video! 🎉

Thanks 🙏 a lot, very efficient and cost effective method

It’s nice to see Slavic people popping up on RU-vid. Good information videos especially the diy frame rack. Used to also live in WA. Молодець !

Perfecto maestro.

Hi mate you are my master from Thailand

Thank you 🙏 for the information ℹ️ because I don’t know 🤷‍♀️ nothing about that 👍👍👍👍👍💪💪💪💪💪💪💪ℹ️ℹ️ℹ️ℹ️ℹ️ℹ️✅✅✅✅🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏💯💯💯💯

That is a great way to measure not only accurately but also a cheap method

Amazing! Thank you!!!

This is so useful. Thank you.

When measuring the distance between the frame rails, regardless of the double crossmembers, it is very possible that one frame rail could move without the other moving at all, or even less than the first one. I am repairing a Chrysler Lx platform vehicle with nearly identical damage. Point of impact almost spared drivers headlight, did spare the hood and door, but folded the knuckle partially, pinching the tire from above, broke upper a arm, bent the strut, broke sway bar end link, and tie rod end, and bent the mounting bolt within its engine cradle mount it box, which was quite a feat to remove the bolt and correct the box. The front crossmembers consist of the bumper, which was under tremendous stress when I loosened the four bolts, the radiator under support, a U shaped piece which was bent, but easily correctable, and the upper cross suppor, which is a metal/plastic hybrid piece spanning fender tip to fender tip, and also support the radiator from the sides, and bolts onto the frame rails. Of the three pieces, the bumper seems to be maybe the strongest, and appeared unharmed. The rad support shows that the drivers frame rail bent in but may or may not have put enough pressure on that rail to move it, but I doubt it, as I bent the radiator under support with feet and hands, no machine. The upper cross piece is certainly strong, but by its feel and construction can’t be impervious to flex, bend, or the like. At first I thought the passenger fender and rail had not moved, but the hood always shut as if both fenders were off to the passenger side by 1”, and that same 1” repeated itself all over the place, like rotor face to rotor face from laser lines down the side showed the whole cradle had moved 1”, with drivers side showing 6” to the laser, and passenger side 5”. Point is, with the measurements made assuming the crossmembers were still true you can be led down a path of miscalculations and mistakes. I speak from experience. This car seemed to be a simple pull of the whole front end as one to the drivers side by 1”. I first fastened to passenger side from the firewall back a bit to hold the car in place. Then from drivers side pulled from three points behind the strut mount area, to in front, and half way from there to the end of the rail, and did so simultaneously, one pull with a 3 ton chain fall, which proceeded to pull both the full sized pickup and Suburban acting as dead weights backwards, with the 5500lb truck moving 1”. I could see and hear the whole front end moving, but regardless of how far past the correct point I pulled, it always went back to the post accident position. Moving and making it stay has been a battle of several points simultaneously, with different push and pull points, and stress relieving the areas of bend. Mind you, the bend was imperceptible, with no singular spot showing bent metal, but the hood would never close correctly, no matter what I did, yet the replacement fender fit in absolutely perfectly on the impact side, with no issues with shut lines with the A pillar or the door. Passenger fender how shown 3mm of movement towards the A pillar, which means that the entire front structure transferred the impact force such that it wrapped AROUND and applied considerable pressure perpendicular to the impact, pushing the passenger fender straight rear wards towards the A pillar base just enough to chip its paint, and shorted the gap from about 7mm to about 3mm. Incredible and unpredictable as to what these chassis are doing. The torsional rigidity in this chassis is also notable. Leveling the rear end, and putting the back lower control arms on blocks with thin sheets of shim to make it very level always moved the front end nearly the same. With the front end sitting on its frame behind engine cradle, jacking the right rear 3” would lift the right front off its jack stand by 1”, some 7’+ forward. That’s impressive. My full frame Suburban can’t remotely do that trick. Those crossmembers could be slightly deformed with showing any obvious cues. I have gone back to square one four times thus far with my endeavor, with the most important points being that the engine cradle bolt holes on the front frame rails must be exactly where the factory measurements show. I shouldn’t and will not rely in being able to shift the cradle around to correct fro non-centered frame rails, as any point of reference is down the toilet and alignment becomes a nightmare because the strut and upper Arms mount in the shock tower independent of engine cradle, so any shifting of the cradle to center it also affect camber on north sides, where perfectly even camber measurements side to side would mean the engine cradle might be centered, chassis wise, SAI and true caster will be off.

BRO! You’re a damn genius. Thank you!

Great video

Very nice video

You are a Genius man. You got my like 👍 and subscription

Thanks for measuring in centimeters!

excellent thank you for that

Me gusta tu trabajo es de mucha ayuda fácil de hacerlo y me da una idea de como yo puedo hacerlo gracias,🎉🎉👋

Hi..when I read the replies below, I felt again that the world is wide. Don't try to response those wierd replies. It makes you exhausted. I am looking forward to watching your new videos. Enjoyed and learned a lot from you. Thank you!

Hey thanks for the information is a good video I didn’t know how to do it now I know thank you so much my friend

Excelent Thank you.

I hope you are a college professor. Wow! Thanks for educating me

liked and suscribed. Thank you!!

My dude this help me so much if u don have the fancy three dimensional measurement

Great Video! Phillip Hall

great explanation, I saw those lasers selling at the store but wasn't sure if they could be used for car repairs. Thanks I would give it a go.

Thanks so much!

you're damn right i learned something. great video . SUBSCRIBED

THANK YOU SO MUCH MAN

Nice work 👍 keep it up

Awesome , liked and subscribed 👍

Very good

Good morning, excellent tutorial on measurement. What kind of device did you have the laser mounted on. Thanks for the great video. You take care.

THANK YOU!!!!

Nice video

Excellent thx

I think the car must stand firm on level base as well as the laser instrument. Your clip give me very good knowledge. Too pity my H civic was bumped on back and garage nearby my home just did repair work on changing rear bumper and coloring. But I noticed some of rear structure might be non correct. I noticed it when open or closing back trunk lid, it's not easily spring up or down. It needs some little force,unusual to before the collision. Poor garage that serviced me!!!!

Why so many comments complain about using the laser? I think it's great. I really like your style. The laser have vertical and horizontal line. I currently study book called "Auto body repair technology" by J. E. Duffy and it clearly states that there are two major DIMENSIONAL REFERENCES : Datum plane and Centerline. So if you have the car on the frame machine and if the car is clamped (not resting on wheels and suspension). And the laser is true to the frame machine. Then the horizontal laser can be datum plane and vertical laser can be center plane. And then one can use these references even on HEAVY COLLISION vehicles. There is also a Zero plane which separates the car into three sections. if the center section(passenger cabin) is true(to the datum plane and center plane), then you can compare the front and rear sections with the center section to find heavy damage .I've never seen Arthur Tussik use 10000 dollers measuring system... I'm only just starting to learn auto body, so i find every bit of information interesting. good day! (drinks beer)

Use a tram gauge to measure from side to side using bolt holes from fender and radiator support

Thanks!!!👍

Congrats from NorCal on your wedding. That happened already, yes? Riddle me this, and maybe you could share some thoughts in your next project: What do you leave on the car when pulling damage? Like our boy Arthur will pull the damaged sections, get it close, then cut out the mangled bits and massage in new pieces. You can tear it up a little on pieces you know are ultimately going to be replaced. Thanks as always.

Hi, love your work. Just one question. When you level the car using the laser, it is clear in your video that you are leveling the car from the front side to side and center and that you are also leveling the car from the rear side to side and center; but not so clear how you level it front to back. Do you just eyeball it with the thought that your side to side and top to bottom measurements will not be effected much if you are off slightly? Or are you actually leveling it from front to back as well and if you are, how do you choose your reference points on the car to level from front to back?

Best explanation I've found. Subscribed. Any info on how to measure the back end of a car? Like say a 92 honda prelude that had a glance and blow on the left rear corner, pushing the bottom of the tail light down and in by about 2 inches but the top of the tail light still somewhat close to lining up, also pushing the quarter panel to within a couple of centimeters of the back side of the tire? Just a totally random example that I picked out of my head, not that it's my current situation or anything. Cough, Ahem, Cough. Like how would I be able to figure out exactly how far I need to pull it out if it measures as level? I guess it might be described as the other dimension measurement. Thanks for the video, the knowledge and any tips. Keep up the good work. Finally a good video that isn't just a sped up video of some guy working on something, with absolutely horrendous music playing on a loop and has no spoken words whatsoever and only an occasional sentence or two vaguely describing a random step they are on with describing any before or after. Seems to be way too many of videos like that, so your video is top notch. All useful and insightful information and no bullshit. Thanks again.

Спасибо автору за познавательное видео. Я тоже использую нивелир в кузовном ремонте. Но мой нивелир поворотный на 360 ° и закреплён на вертикальной стойке с кронштейном. На кронштейне, нивелир может смещаться в право и лево для более тонкой настройки под центральную ось координат автомобиля. По вертикальной стойке нивелир на кронштейне, может перемещаться, как вверх, так и вниз.

That’s genies 🔥

I was wondering about what size tubing you used to make the tower puller that you used on the Honda roof and how did you make the spot puller gun and red attachment and love the videos bc ive been thinking about making my own as well

Рахмат

Just a little good advice anytime you're dealing with special measurements always take two measurements before you take one cut without these Auto levelers on the lasers your line is only as straight as the installer is if you line it up crooked it would be crooked throughout

Pretty dang good content. I will subscribe and see what else you come up with. I'd like to see you fix this car? What is the observed problem with the car? Could the owner feel it pulling to one side?

Briliant

Would be cool if you can place links to the tools in the description that you are using, like in this case lasers. Thank you 😊

Excellent video. How you got to level the car so the laser will be on same spot in both sides? My guess you had to play around with the Jack's to lift each side of the car until the laser was at the desire spot, correct? Thanks

How do you use a laser to measure a quarter panel pull and thank you for sharing your amazing work and video I have a 2008 Mitsubishi galant and I want to fix the frame on passenger rear hope to hear back from you to get some tips I'm not a body man but not scared to put in the work

@fix206 would you say 5mm is enough to go through the process of straightening or will adjustments in alignment be able to make up for it?

Great info. What kind of lasers were you using. You should post some Amazon affiliate links.

Hello. I liked u bodyrepair work.... Thank u for show points and steps .... I've got some questions.....about framework, frame(stapel), and measures of laser level. Sorry for my English, try to u understand correct 👍😂my questions.

Can you measure the same way for an SUV body on frame? To check for frame damage

Excellent video. My question is, how to do move the laser up or down so you can take a measure in the top area and then the low areas? By the way never use a laser so maybe I do not understand it but Im thinking the laser only shoots a straight thin line for vertical and horizontal, so the vertical no issue cause it will go right the middle but the horizontal? or is the laser Static in one place and then you only use the tape to move it around for the measurements? Also can you show us the actual stand of the laser and how you set it up to be in front of the car so we get the whole picture? Sorry if I am confused but who better to explain it than the guy who shot this great video! Thanks,

I’m in a similar situation as this, with drivers fender support needs replacing and realigning the radiator support, possibly the frame too ( although it doesn’t look to be off ) Curious from watching the next few videos, I see you mentioned your drivers strut tower is higher, but I didn’t see anything after your pulls if that drivers tower matches the passenger side now? My drivers side is 1/4” higher then the passenger, so I’m just curious as far how did you manage to lower the tower/rail down? This is interesting! Good stuff to learn here! Just made me a tram gauge following your video!

Any videos coming as far as collision repairs?