On this channel you'll see mostly "How To" videos that has to do with Auto Body repair and me making my own tools for the job. I am always on a look out for a good deal on a car that needs some TLC, mostly with body damage. I'll show you the process that I go through start to finish (that includes, the tare down, frame pull if necessary, metal work, body filler work and of course paint) to bring the car back to pristine condition, so it's look and drive as it did before the accident. I love sharing the knowledge that I've acquired over the years. Hopefully you'll find my videos to be entertaining and maybe even learn a thing or two. Cheers
What I think? Commercial providers of compressors have been slacking. Now I feel like making my own although I don't have the skills. Maybe a bore scope would help to see what is happening.
I absolutely love this. The only thing I don't quite understand is how the unloader valve on the switch works in conjunction with the automatic drain in the bottom of the bucket. Can someone explain that? Normally it just unloads the air in the charge pipe right at the switch right?
Right or wrong, in my situation I put my IR compressor on a corner shelf 2’ above the floor, and I’m drawing my air from the bottom, where the main out goes into a water separator then on to the quick connect, and also heads to a hose reel. So I have no cooling, but my hope is that any water will always leave the tank so it shouldn’t ever rust. I’m not painting, just air tools, tire inflation, and blow gun stuff. Great video and great craftsmanship.
I've heard from a guy who sells used air compressors that the pressure test for an air tank is 3x that rated pressure of the tank for 30 seconds. But I guess that 1,7 times the pressure for 10 minutes is okay.
You are brilliant! I was working on changing my small tank for a larger tank that I have around my barn. Glad I saw your work! I have more ideas to make sure my new home made compressor works great. Thanks so much. 💋
I am not sure how cold it gets where you're at, but I am going to steal your idea for the water condensing bucket, but I will use windshield washing fluid instead of just water. It gets a bit cold where I am at lol.
Brother, you are awesome. May I know where are you from, location? I have the same issue but with a 2010 honda crv. But my air bag didn't deployed, but the seat belt just got stuck, so I replaced with a used good one. Now that airbag sign still showing. My mechanic told me I have to buy a new one from dealership or flash it . I am on a budget so I am looking for someone know this type of work. You seem like an expert in this field, that's why I ask you. Please let me know if you can . Thank you for your time and consideration.
That's pretty amazing I was wondering though If you can do some type of coding on the inside of a rusty tank assuming that it passed a pressure test just so no more rust would form probably not a good idea though. Just a thought
Why not go with a couple freezer/refrigerator or air conditioner pumps - after all, they are nearly completely silent and most all of the air compressors that are on the market, that state they are Silent - this is what they use. I use a pump setup that was in a hotel air conditioner - one of the large pumps about 2-3 times bigger than the standard refrigerator pumps/con pressers. I would love to try one of those Screw Compressors but oOf! They are 10,000 USD $ and up! I got all of my setup for around $60 at a few different garage sales! Tip - have the airline in a hard tube run up your wall and and down again then into a water oil separator and then into an air dryer. Dont forget to take into account the length and inner diameter of your air line / hose makes a huge impact on final performance!
I recently acquired couple of the pumps that you're speaking off. Are you actually able to get one of these pumps to work with your air compressor? Maybe you and I should get in touch and kick some ideas around?
Fix206, maybe this question had been answered in the over 4000 comments, but can you be more specific on how you hooked up the water-cooling system? I have a Campbell 20-gallon oil-type compressor that is now 44 years old. Works great still b/c I change the lubrication fluid regularly, but I am perplexed on how to cool this unit. I have two 11-gallon auxiliary tanks in-line to make capacity of 42 gallons capacity in total and the unit overheats
That tankt rotisserie, oh buddy, so good. You could have put some gravel stones in it an spin it for a while and then recoat its inside, would have been a good fix for the rusty inside. But still, everything here, very good.
Compressors being loud and the potential of an older rusty tank rupturing is always a concern. I keep putting it off but I want to build a small room off the back or side of my garage as a dedicated Compressor Room. I’m not the best at draining the tank daily and a lot of times my kids will fire it up to run tools or inflate tires and just shut it off and leave it. Knowing they rust from the inside out and you have a potential disaster waiting. At least in its own room it be less dangerous.
When I restored my Cutlass, I only had a 25 gal direct drive Craftsman compressor. It didn’t have enough SCFM to keep up with an HVLP gun so I borrowed my brothers that was the same model and ran them in tandem. It was in the summer so I was condensing so much water that an inline trap and small one at the gun wasn’t enough so I coiled 100’ of that cheap rigid airline in a 5 gal bucket and filled it with ice and water. Put a big water trap at the end and a smaller desiccant style at the gun and no issues! Full respray from bare metal too: epoxy primer, high build, base and clear. I’ve since replaced with a big 2 stage compressor but it is doable with “what you got”if you get a little innovative.
Great Video! But...I have questions: what about the weather impact on the motor/compressor? Did you do a simple "roof" over the motor and electrical bits? Can you cover another vid on the electrical part of this video, specifically: the GFCI found in most garages, did you bypass this and give this compressor it's own circuit or use the GFCI (as painting when it gives out has got to be horrible)? What are your air lines in your garage made of? Copper or plastic? And please discuss your drop-downs (if installed) for painting and work for those that have hobby garages and any secondary water/oil separator/filters for garage or paint work. Thanks for the great video.
The big secret is that only a couple companies make the compressors and tanks, we got a Craftsman tank with a decent warranty on it, only to find the Chinese made motor only had a limited warranty for whenever it unsurprisingly failed early.
If you got a rusty tank you cold do a step after degreasing with phosphorus acid and water. That way you chemically blast the inside to remove all the rust even from the pitting. We did this prior to inspection on 3000-45000 psi scuba steel tanks. And I can tell you even the most awful looking tanks passed hydrotesting. We had a minimum messure we used on pitting but since the location almost always was located in the thicker bottom we didn't scrap many bottles. A welded steel plate tank don't have this advantage though.
Lot's of people have asked about where I got the body dimension measurements... And to answer that: I did get the first set of measurements online and the other set came from the computer program I got... I did go over it in detail in the previous video, here is the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3mwsqGRthSE.html And also in the following video, here is the link to it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-h1KnIMv08N0.html Hope it helps !
My first time watching and I subscribed to your channel. I love this line of work, but I'm too old to learn how to do it. Recently I had my car pulled in a shop for a small nose hit and the results were very poor. Even when I have a complete cut off front they pull the original, and use some parts from the cut off front. But the lines between the fenders and the hood are not right. So I dismantled the whole nose in my garage and found a lot of bondo where the hood latch is. So now I'm trying to help myself and fix what I can. Masterful job on your Mazda, thank you for the video.
This is close to the Perfect DIY video! Brilliant design, fantastic safety testing, and *all* the necessary info to properly duplicate your setup! Well Done, and Thank you!
Name brand means nothing. They trusted names of old have been sold off to Chinese manufactures that make questionable quality equipment that sold for name brand premium prices.
I was going to build an air compressor using that pump but never having owned a real air compressor (just a few pancake ones) and the job felt a little over my head so I decided to buy. Plus, if you’re familiar with Menards they give rebates when you shop there. I had spent a couple thousand dollars last summer building a deck so I had enough rebates to buy the compressor without coming more out of pocket. I ended up with a MasterForce which is made by Sanborn/Campbell Hausfeld. It’s a single stage that puts out 13.4 cfm @ 40psi and 11.5 cfm @ 90 psi. I think for the little tinkering I do this will serve me well for years. I do like your pre cooler set up. But I don’t have extra space to have a bucket of water next to my compressor. I am going to use air cooling but also like you did put an inline filter before the air enters the tank. Also, harbor freight does still sell those big blue filters you mentioned they are item number 58547 Merlin brand $99. That’s the filter I’ll be using eventually.
Just got my back end fixed on my granddads 99 ford ranger that was rear ended by a semi truck. Its amazing what can be done with a blow torch, a dead blow hammer, chains and a hydrallic jack. New Tailgate finally shuts right and hasnt had a rear bumper for over 20 years until now. Spare tire carrier was crumpled in and all jacked up until my dad showed me how restore it.
Thanks for sharing. I'm thinking about doing the same thing. I wonder if you might share answers to questions I still have ?? a) Does it matter whether you run this pump on 120v or 240v ?? b) Is the size of the tank an issue ?? Could I put it on a smaller tank (say 30gal) ?? c) Is the auto drain valve in the link you provided for the end of the cooling tube ?? d) How does the valve open at the end of the cooling tube w/out pressure ?? e) If the water in the bottom of the coil is expelled, does that mean that the condensation in the tank is transferred to the coil ?? HOW ?? ..... Or ..... Will there eventually still be condensation in the tank that needs to be bled ?? f) What is the vacuum hose to the coil do & where is it connected ?? Love the video , thanks for your generous consideration, Sincerely ................... God bless.
