Wish all of youtube would be this informative. Learned what I came here for, wasted 0 time... Honestly this is more valuable than 78% of my recommendations. And I'm a photographer :D They should encourage this type of content instead of "lengthy videos=more money" business model :D
*I absolutely love this tool!!! The first one was defective and Dewalt replaced **MyBest.Tools** More bulky than the Bosch and Makita corded palm routers I have but worth it. Nice solid base*
enever used a router before. you managed to show me exactly what i needed when the manual and official video coundn't. saved me hours of hair pulling cheers!!!
So valuable thank you. My brother gave me a Dewalt router for Christmas. He got it from his brilliant Woodworker friend, and it came second had without the instructions, so this is so helpful for me, thank you! The instructions I needed. Ali Rowe. xx
I'm used to larger, corded routers ru-vid.comUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.
Let the opening and closing ads run. He cleared this issue for a lot of us, and without making it a 22 min video, with 13 midroll ads that none of us let run. I haven't used a router in decades, what helped me was that much of the routing process is best done in multiple passes, not ALL AT ONCE, at ramming speeds.
@@chrisbernichon I ordered shaker style doors. When they came all they were was three-quarter inch MDF sheet with a routed out center to make it look like a shaker door. I mis-measured a pair that are the wrong size. And I have some leftover MDF. So I will try to copy the doors by using a router jig with stop blocks.
Amazing!! I just bought some floating shelves and I want to add LED strips flush to the bottom, illuminating the shelf below it!! Going to have my art supplies above my desk, perfume collection above that and the top shelf my collectibles (funkos, scale models).
It is a centering jig from Rockler. It came in clutch when I had to cut 100 mortises for a crib I built. www.rockler.com/rockler-compact-router-mortise-centering-base
This may be a dumb question but can you do trim work and edge profiling with this type of router or are compact routers the only type that can do that.
You can use any plunge router for trim work. You just set your depth before cutting. The best part about this router is the plunge base and fixed base are interchangeable. That way, when doing a simple round-over, you can put a smaller, easier-to-handle base on.
Great video. I have the Dewalt plunge base and have never tried it yet. This gives me the basics to try it out. Thanks !! What bit should I use for plunge routing?
When it comes to plunge routers, is it safe to use a collet extender with them? Or is that strictly a router table thing only? I’m wondering if I can use a plunge router with an extender to do a 4” plunge cut on a 6x6 piece of timber. If not, I’ll probably just use a whopper blade on a jigsaw do make the cut.
Personally, I would use an auger bit and then use a chisel to square up the opening. amzn.to/3R5y50Z . The collet extenders I’ve seen don’t recommend their use on plunge routers so definitely check with the manufacturer. P.S. I bent a flattening bit on a router sled and nearly 💩 myself; I understand why they don’t recommend it 🤣
Good clear video. I have the corded version of this Dewalt router. Have been nothing but disappointed with it. Poor dust collection. Painful to change bits. Just not well designed. So wish I had just bought a Festool one straight away.
Yes both these came with the Dewalt kit. They are terrible to use. They get in the way and they don’t work well at all. It is a poorly designed system.
Next router will be Festool 1400. Made the mistake thinking that Dewalt was a very good brand. Having got Festool track saw and sander the difference is significant.
@@murphyrp01 that looks like a solid unit. I’m always leery of the festool premium. I have a rotex which I really like but find it’s to much sander for finish standing. I have their cheapest dust extractor that is an awesome value. Whatever your preference, as long as you’re in the shop making dust that’s all that counts!
The adjustment ring on the router is removed when you are using the plunge base. The router will set flush at the bottom of the base with the ring removed, according to the directions included with the plunge base.
Thanks for sharing, how do you finish the corners, the radius of the bit will prevent you from getting a sharp corner, like the bow tie has, do you finish with hand tools, or a smaller bit, or....?
Great question! Once you get the majority of the bow tie cut out, you test your fit and use a chisel to get your sharp corners and tight fit. The method is called sneaking up to the fit. You take small bits off at a time until it is perfect.
It happens to all of us. Last time I made a mistake with a router it cost me 8 stitches. It’s super frustrating but it’s just another learning experience. You got this!
I am desperately trying to find a video or something on making a display for my gemstone eggs and spheres. I want to make various size crescent cuts in wood slices that will hold the gems. My eggs are all different sizes. I have an idea of what I want and bought an inexpensive router and Baihens 1/4 Inch Shank Cove Box Router Bit Set Solid Double Flute Nose Bits. Help?
Hi Kelle, that sounds like a fun project! I’d love to help you with that. I’d say start by tracing each one in the position you want them, use a plunge router to remove most of the wood, and then come in with a chisel to clean it up. If you end up with a hole that’s slightly larger than you need you can put a bevel or round over by hand sanding to ease the edge. That will help hide any imperfections or fill it carefully with epoxy and a syringe. If you’d like we could hop on a quick video chat so you can show me what you’re working with. Send me an email, or DM!
Yes it is always best to take multiple lighter passes when using the router. It will help keep your bit sharper for longer by preventing burning, and it is less likely to kick back at you.
Whats the maximum depth? I can't find any video that shows the depth of 50 to 70 mm. I want to route holes for door hinges for a pivot door. The upper hinge has a depth of 67mm, and the lower hinge has a depth of 58mm. I already found out I can buy a 70mm bit in length. But can all routers support all sorts of lengths? If not, can somebody advise me on which router should fit my job? It has to be a plunger.
I would use a guided drill for the deep part of the pivot hinge, and then any router/chisel to recess the plate. You can get them fairly cheap on Amazon. amzn.to/3RBus2J
He showed me exactly how to use it. If he would have said I’m going to show you exactly how to make a certain type of cut, then I would have expected that. Great video.
You HAD me all the way....UNTIL....you got the part "we're only gonna cut into the piece by 1/4". You moved the turrett, but didn't show or elaborate and what you did. One could only assume you moved the turrett 1 twist to bump UP to the next higher one. Assuming then that you will finish the first pass at the 1/4, then just move the turrett to the next lower and pass again at 1/2"????? I thought it was GREAT till that part I mentioned
I see what you mean. Thanks for pointing that out. Around 1:11, I explain each increment of the turret is 1/4" and we are going 1/2" deep. Two passes, a quarter of an inch at a time. Thanks for watching!
@@CTEwithMrB Can I give you a scenario and you can help me out please. I ONLY need a 3/8" dado cut for my T-track. Now, assuming, I ZERO out my bit on my workpiece first. Then I set my depth gauge to 3/8. If I want to take the plunge incrementally (i.e. 1/8th at a time for each pass, then if use the tallest turret for the first pass, then I move it to the second turret, then the third.....Are you saying that each time I move it, I'll be cutting an additional 1/4"?? Or does the turret truly represent a quarter of your cut each turn? In other words, the tallest turret being used first will give you 1/8, then the second will drop the cut an additional 1/8, and then the third turn will drop you down to the 3/8? I'm confused!!!
