This bit had me the most confused, googled Washing Detergent and it thought it was for the washing machine, however the only detergent I know is for the dishes.
I learned proper caulking from the pros years ago. You flush cut the tip and push it forward controlling the flow. The flush cut tip produces a concave bead and no need to run your finger along. As a cabinet installer, I've caulked about 300 plus quartz counter tops.
I have to disagree with everything I am afraid. Concave looks messy, unclean but most importantly the thinner edges of a concave a much more prone to get unstuck when regularly cleaned. Also you never cut the nozzle clean and it will always leave tiny scratches. What you are describing is basically half of the job. After what you leave I would put wooden stick with tip cut flat less than width of the bead and run it along. The stick is best kept in cup of fairly strong solution of washing up liquid so it soaks it up and eliminates the need for spray. Resulting in °45 angle nice strong bead with even edges and smooth sheen on top that's easy to clean and last lot longer. I should say I am a mastic man from UK and I have to say I never seen mastic done properly in US so you are not the only one.
@@lipeeno Is "mastic" the same thing as what we in the USA call "caulk?" What shape of stick? Round? Square? Rectangle? Would you use that same "stick" technique after the 45 degree tip cut and "pull smoothly" method shown in the video? Do you always use a "run bead and then smooth with stick" method on every caulk you lay? Seems like the main difference between what you are suggesting and the "finger" method shown in the video is that you keep your finger clean. You say a "wooden stick with tip cut flat less than the width of the bead." Since the bead is maybe 1/4" at most, isn't that a very small stick?
@@TheLarryBrown I would agree with @lipeeno - use some sort of stick (or plastic) that has a straight cut at the end, not a finger. Stick will create a flat seam instead of concave - it will be more durable and easier to clean. Moreover, don’t try to clean up the excess silicone that gets pushed to the sides (then using finger you will most likely have to stop to clean it). Trying to clean the excess will just mess up the whole work, and stops will make the seam inconsistent. So just run the seam with stick holding it at 45 degree angle (the excess will be “cut” off the actual seam material), let it dry and remove the excess when dried, it will come off as silicone ropes pretty easily.
Been doing it that way for years, but recently bought a little set of those finishing tools. It is amazing what a difference 1mm makes to the radius of the shaping curve. The other take home advice, and it applies to everything from puttying to plastering: don’t muck about! If the first pass is 85% good, then leave it and move on. Any attempt to improve it by retouching will only make it worse.
Good advice. My friend who I worked for time to time told me the same of working concrete. I believe the saying that is appropriate for this is "the perfect is the enemy of the good".
That's such a good point about not mucking around. I do it sometimes when shaping my beard, keep trying to get it perfect and even, and end up going overboard and having to shave the whole thing off 🤣
Genius. I used to stick my index finger in my mouth and use that. Then when it got covered in sealant, middle finger. Then ring finger then pinkie. Great tip.
Practice makes perfect, it's easy for a person that's been doing this a long time, however when they or you start caulking dont be afraid of messing it up, these tips have been around for ever and are perfect for a beginner
Just about to apply silicone sealant to multiple joints in our new shower room. I’ve been practicing with the sealant and could not get the finish to an acceptable standard. Just tried your method on a test piece and you’d think I knew what I was doing, it’s that good! Thanks so much!
Good tips for DIYers, but as a High-end Residential remodel contractor who doesn't want product to fail and come back to clients, I do things a bit different. We use de-greaser (water/dishsoap) for silicone or any type of oily base caulking. however, don't do this with water-base, which are usually interior painters caulk. The de-greaser can often cause bad adhesion and it isn't as easy to work with. it may look fine for a couple months, but tends to come up around 6months to 1 year later. Rather, water alone is better. We learned this the hard way years back.
And totally useless for 9 out of 10 jobs. Cut the 45 on the tip, get a wet rag handy...apply smooth and consistent....wet finger and ease down caulk line at at least a 45 degree angle and stop with the finger as soon as it start to build up on the sides and wipe onto rag.....repeat.....for final wipe....put rag over finger and gently wipe down the caulk line to give a finished consistent look and clean off any that may have been pushed out on to the other surfaces. Practice makes perfect....good luck.
Totally incorrect way to do it...no liquids should be used, it stops the bead edge sticking firmly and always comes off...water creeps down the side of the shower tray and cause big damage to rooms below. Had a lot of work over the years repairing ceilings because of this technique used by "pro's" that never get asked back to their work to see what a mess they made
I am going to try this. When doing particular areas where the smallest bead possible is desired, I always use tape. Tape both sides, apply caulk/silicone and remove excess, pull tape and then lightly run wet finger over it in order to press the edges down. I don't do this method always, but some situations you want a very tiny bead but to ensure you have a seal. Tape allows you to push aggressively while minimizing the outside. Works great if you have uneven surfaces too. I like the trick learned in this video and will try, just figured I would share my trick with all.
Amazing, we just repainted our bathrooms and I was about caulk the trim. I'm really happy I watched this video, I have always hated doing caulking, I can't wait to try this out.
Very nice! Good tips! The spray and soapy water and finger is what a tile professional told me too, so you have confirmed the technique you show on your vid
Hi I just watched your video. And I’ve just done the sealant on my bathroom and toilet floor. It was so easy! The water and dish washing detergent worked a treat. Thank you for making such a helpful video. I’ve never used sealant before. I think it looks great 😊
The problem with this method is, it's great if you have lots of experiance. I would recommend Diy'rs to use the masking method, which guarantees perfect results, even if it is your first time. Just mask off both sides of where you need your silicone, with a gap in the centre about 6mm, apply the filler to the gap, wet your finger, and wipe across it when finished just like in this video, making sure that the silicon has filled the gap completely, then remove the tape as soon as you have finished, job done, perfect edges,
Agreed. The masking tape method will leave a slight ridge the thickness of the tape though, so I suggest as a final step after removing the tape is to wet your finger and light swipe over the silicone one more time to smooth it perfectly.
Thanks for the tips. I was always taught that the best caulk job is the one you can't see. So I would always use a damp cloth and wipe all that excess caulk away. That way the joint is completely filled and if you used clear or a color match you would never even see it and it makes it easier to clean if it's like in a shower or other wet area that builds up mold and mildew
My brother-in-law taught me this technique way back in 1971. He used to manufacture glass fish-tanks, sealed with silicone caulk. This also works with an unrelated product: vinyl cut stickers for sign-making: it allows one to "slip" the letters into exact position. Not exactly a "secret", but it is to many folk!
I used the screw cap idea for years but recently found wrapping the tip of the nozzle in a piece of cling film works even better with none of the sealant drying out at the tip.
That is the best tip ever! Just completed a silicon job in our bathroom, and the finish was perfect. I've always struggled with this job and ended up covered in silicon, but my hands were clean too! Thanks
@Billshowto instead of the screw in the end I use those little memory foam earbud things, cut one in half and squash down then twist into the hole. Works pretty well.
I’ve always smoothed out the caulking by running my finger in the reverse direction it was applied, it makes a big difference than running your finger in the same direction it was applied.
I was quite worried about siliconing around my worktops. Never done it before, so definitely a novice.After watching your video, I’m very confident at giving it ago. Thankyou 🙌
The guys I worked with were “old pros” in building maintenance. Carpenters, flooring, cabinetry, plumbers, drywall and painters and on some jobs - landscapers. Pity we were thought of as “janitors or custodians” when actually we are skilled, and in many cases, certified/licensed to do our jobs in any variety of facility “maintenance. This caulking technique wasn’t taught in any school I’ve ever attended but handed down knowledge by observation! It does work like a charm and really puts the finishing touch on the work.
I'm hardly a pro, but I'm a stickler for straight lines. I always use painter's tape above and below the line to be caulked; apply the caulk, pull my finger through it until it's even, then remove the tape and pull my finger lightly across it again. It may be silly, but I always get a perfect line every time.
you may have nice straight lines that look very neat and tidy but you will also have a concave bead that is extremely thin at point of contact with tile and tray/bath. This will soon lose contact from minimal cleaning and give access to water and soap and shortly to mould.
I've done the painters tape method a couple times looks nice but never seems to last as long as it would if you didnt. I have a tool I use now that allows you to make the bead into the shape you want and scrapes up the excess
Kudos to you for this time-saving, effective, caulk application hack! You did so without a lot of rambling, silliness, or loud, annoying music.. again, thanks!👍🏼
The best method by far is wire nuts, it will create a perfect seal and very practical. You have to use the right size for the nozzle application, you will never use anything else.
So glad to see someone doing this correctly. You don't any special tools. I was taught this way over 30 years ago. It's the Pro way too. Anyone says different, well they were not taught by pros.
The second half of your good bead was not in contact with the tile before you wet the area. The water will stop it sticking where you want it to. The joint will leak and mould will grow. The bead needs to be stuck to the surface before the spray is applied.
Have to agree with Ramino Man. After applying the silicone you must make sure it is in contact with both surfaces before you spray. The bead applied here will fail! Showers will leak. This guy really doesn't know how to apply silicone.
A pro sealant applicator would use nothing but an angled nozzle, a pro would apply a fillet of silicone to a joint like that and it wouldn't need touching. As some one said your effort was not good as soon as you spray a joint like yours it would not stick! Wet the tool don't spray , better still don't don't touch it.
I was so glad you used your finger Bill. Best caulking tools available the fingers. Tiny, clean consistent bead, all the way up to a fat bead, all on one hand 👌
I am letting a window dry after finishing it and just came across your video didnt inow about cutting the tip but its very usefull on the other hand I did exactly what you did in the last part used detergent on my finger and whater and swiped , it works like a charm thank you
Bill, Great video but i have an issue with the anti-stick washing up liquid application. Basically, it stops the silicone sticking to the tile - which is what you are wanting it to do. However, where you've imperfectly applied the bead, there will be areas where there is no silicone. So, you run along with you finger attempting to correct this, thus pushing the silicone over the anti-stick liquid. Guess what? The silicone that you've smeared over the bare imperfections will not stick to the tile - though the result looks good. :) This will most likely mean fungus growing behind those parts, or at least there be no silicone adhesion. I cannot see that I'm wrong here. :) But I'll leave you to do things your way.. Regards.
Ray Gee : I agree. Don’t spray. I dip my finger in the solution and run it along the bead of silicone. Just be careful to repeat the dipping process from time to time if the section of silicone is long. Alternatively, you could use saliva 😳.
This was my thought exactly....losing adhesion if damp or soapy. However, where the final finger wiped bead is smaller than the extruded bead, this may not be a problem, because the silicone already had intimate contact to the surface before any liquid made contact. On the other hand, when the finger compressed bead is wider because it expands onto wet surface, the borders in my opinion will lack bond and adhesion, and be prone to leakage and all that goes with that.
Excellent video! I just used the soapy water on my finger and it all worked perfectly! Thanks for this “to the point” video guide with no mucking about and without having to listen to someone so full of themselves and waffling on for half an hour. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
For fine finish caulking I like to carry a small bucket with a suturated rag in the bottom. For water soluble caulks add a splash of ammonia to water to help lubricate your finger. For solvent based caulks i prefer naptha. For sealing tape lines, non siloconized acrylic latex painters caulk works best as is breaks away the easiest.
I've been applying silicone for 30 years, and you SHOULD NOT pull the gun along. The gun should be pushed ahead. This is the only way to get the silicone to squeeze into the gap between the tiles. Also, the use of detergent water is OK but this will prevent the silicone adhering to the tiles everywhere the silicone does not initially stick when you apply it from the gun. The only sure way to tell if there is an adhesion problem is some months later when mold creeps out onto the silicone. Good idea to clean the surfaces FIRST with wax and grease stripper, acetone or similar. I like to apply the silicone, wet finger thoroughly, smooth the silicone so as to ensure it adheres everywhere, THEN spray area with the detergent water, and then use a shaped tool to strike the excess off. Bit of a knack to that too, so as not to get silicone everywhere, and I mean everywhere.
Great work Bill....one additional tip Is to use disposable baby wipes to clean excess caulk off your finger. Wipes off easy and avoids spreading caulk all over old rags
Use a paddle pop stick first. That will give a uniform finish, then finish with your finger lightly to finish out any lines. Using your finger first will create an uneven bead with varying pressure. Be careful what soap you’re using on natural stone. Some soaps contain acidic additives and will ruin the stone.
The problem when using detergent is that it gets behind the gaps where the wonky shakes missed the wall. Now when you rub your digit along the length of the bead you're trapping the slippy detergent between the sealant and wall - preventing the silicone's adhesion. So those areas will come away from the wall and leak in short order.
@@Danster547 , I just use my clean naked finger to pull along the bead. I have a damp towel to wipe off any build-up on my finger if it feels like too much caulk was applied along the crevice. I've been doing it like this for well over two decades, and get very clean results, without caulk extending out too far along the sides, and great adhesion, because I didn't use anything that would interfere with the bond. The biggest part is consistently laying down a good bead to begin with, and not cutting too much of the tip off the tube of caulk.
@@briangarrett666 You are correct, but also water sets silicon off, I have been in the glazing , carpentry and joinery trade since 1965. I am a master Carpenter and joiner, O.N.C H.N.C C&G, and ran 3 businesses before I retired,. I have been to the Glazing federation Exhibitions in Germany (3 times) and America, and even there , there were different guys using different methods. When these tube applicators first came out the only way to get a perfect bead was practice. Every tradesman knows you cut the nozzle at an angle, "ALWAYS" and how far own dictates the size of bead for the appropriate gap or joint. That said, I have seen guys both push the gun forewords and or backwards and achieve perfect results. Fact is practice makes perfect, and a bad workman always blames his tools.
Excellent, this works very well. As far as preserving the rest of the tube, just clean out the end of the tip- maybe a 1/4 inch or so and then melt some candle wax in it. The wax is easily dug out with a screw and just like jam or jelly it's preserved.
Thanks for your opinions folks. There are obviously numerous ways to get a good caulk line, but as I stated, I am hardly a pro. I've never had any 'adhering' problems with the method that I use, but I suppose only time will tell. I have one of those application tools but I don't care for it much. As for sealing the tube, I use wine bottle corks. I drill a partial hole in the top, press it down over the tip, give it a twist, and it works great for months.
Umm yeah, NOPE. I'm guessing you've never actually used a pop stick. The impossible thing is the "perfect curve". You'll be there all day. Plus wood doesn't drag across silicon (you have to understand the chemical makeup and characteristics of the medium you're using).
Nice tip the sudsy water - have been using acetone on silicone for years. Happy to see you chasing it with your finger to push it into the joint - not just laying the bead on top of the joint. Nice video Mate!
If you apply the silicone properly, ie fill the gap between the tiles and create a bead that is adhered to both tiles, then a soapy finger or tool can be used to clean the excess. Unfortunately in your example the silicone was applied without sufficient pressure - at 3:17 we can see the shadow under the bead. The soapy water will get in there and prevent adhesion. That silicone will not be making any seal at all.
Surely the non-stick coating before the final finger spread invisibly leaves the edge of the strip less well stuck to the wall on both sides and will lead to early edge peeling?
My caulking secret is frog tape above and below before the caulk is applied you can be as rough as guts with the application the frog tape will clean it up
This is best tip on here!! Never occurred to me in all these years (Tape) I dip my finger in alcohol to smooth, just a little works great. Also, just cut a small hole on tip.
Limited to one thickness of bead and leaves fine edges that peel off when cleaning. Great if you don’t want to see that customer again. Silicone tools are the best way. Good 45 degree bomb proof seal 👍👍
Perfect! I have silicone and needed to seal my fish tank. Already stripped out the old stuff and had it cleaned up, but had never used caulk before. Tank looks great for a first time! Went ahead and got around the door where ants and cold were getting in, next will be the tub where it's iron and rust stained!
I was taught by an old pro to push the caulking tube instead of pulling it. If you do it properly it pushes the caulk into the gap and also smooths up as you go. Perfect bead every time. It does take some getting used to though.
When we were building our house i got this tip from the master builder. There are also accessories one can buy to finish off the job without getting his/her fingers dirty.
This is too good! Makes perfect sense too - I suppose using spot detergent cleaners like Shout would work just as well or perhaps even better? Thanks again for sharing this extremely valuable tip!
Never been that good at siliconeing. Jus had a feature wall done that required good quality silicone. This video turned my average work into great. Thanku very much.
I have been working on houses for over 35 years, I just have a cup of water to dip my finger in only when using pure silicone caulk. Latex caulk all you need is a wet rag to wipe your caulk finger clean.
@@automaticninjaassaultcat3703 Easier trick is to keep a damp grout sponge with you. Touch your dry finger to the sponge, wipe caulk bead, then wipe of excess caulk on the sponge. Once the sponge is dirty, rinse it in a bucket of water. Repeat. With this method, there is no need for paper, cardboard, etc. on which to wipe off excess caulk. At the end of the work, just wash out the bucket. Learned this watching The Idaho Painter here on YT.
Great video about how to NOT do it. Soapy water makes silicone non-sticky, right? So let's use it to NOT stick to wall. Welcome water, bacteria and mould
Yep, worst thing is to use any kind of soap on new silicone. I thought this was settled. All you need is a little bit of that to get behind the silicone when curing and it’s all ruined.
When I was in glazing we started to use silicone low modulation to glaze the double glaze unit with wooden beads and we would spray water with a little fairy liquid in and then use a joint boy which was a rubber flat blade which had a small corner of the small bit of silicone which was left on the tool like the one left on your finger we would wipe off on a paper towel we got very quick doing this way and it look very nice l do the same way when doing a bath room thanks for your video stay safe 👏👏👍
It is crooked and some of washing up liquid got at the back of silicon, it will pill off in those spots later. Smooth it roughly first, then washing up liquid then scribe with silicon tool.
