You don't need to use your finger to add the sealant to the nail heads, it was just about to drip onto the roof so I caught it at the last second. Edit: Everyone saying the pipe isn't insulated should notice that this is a cathedral ceiling. None of this is in an attic. The pipe is contained in a 100% conditioned space and surrounded by insulation where it matters.
@@williamrichardson5854 It's not caulking, it's flash mate. It's considered a commercial roofing sealant and the packaging says asphalt and roof boots right on it. I do agree that there are some things that could be added to make it potentially better, but they would have required me to remove some shingles. I've installed 100s of roof boots using this process and haven't had any issues. I appreciate your recommendations though.
Great vid, but for one thing. don't use silicone on asphalt/fibreglass shingles. It eats the tar. Go back in a year and it will be stuck to the bottom of the upper shingle but the granules and a chunk of shingle where the silicone was will come up if you lift the shingle. In fact, p;ut some clear silicone on a shingle and go back in an hour an it'll be black with the leached tar. Instead, use an elastomeric /thermoplastic type sealant. Never use silicone on shingles. * roofer with 35+ years experience. I didn't know this for the first 15 years...
Nice install. If you are in a cold climate, you will need pipe insulation to prevent condensation. Also, a few feet of horizontal pipe before going vertical helps prevent a leak from condensation.
As a professional roofer for 13 years the only thing I would have suggested here is to add ice and water shield around the hole before the boot was installed and the around the top and sides of the boot to where the shingle row ends. This will ensure it never leaks around the booth or hole. I've been installing shingles to NRCA specs my entire career and for the last 3 years been exceeding them by adding my own based on regular customer call backs over the years. Since doing so my call backs have been reduced by over 75%. My suggestion above was one of our regular call backs leaks around boots. Good luck and all in all that was a clean install.
I liked how you did a horseshoe with the sealant, allowing any moisture or water that got in there to leak out thru the bottom, most people would just do a complete ring. Clean work 👍🏽
Most concise, no nonsense, detailed and easy to understand video Ive seen about this. I’ve seen 5 20min videos that dragged on and on and just left me with more questions
Globbing sealant doesn't necessarily increase effectiveness considering all the variables. I used ringshank stainless nails. If you've ever removed a ringshank nail then you know that the hold strength borders on screws. Most people would use a coated screw which doesn't compare to a stainless nails longevity. I know what you're saying though and I have used stainless screws for these. I'm well over 100 boots deep with no callbacks though, so that probably means something.
I'm against hard piping bathroom fans. It is very difficult to replace fan later unless it was installed in the attic. Use flexible vent at least for a foot or two. (I also don't recommend long run with only flexible vent)
On a Reno job. What trade do you get to do this? Electrician brings power in for exhaust fan. Do you hire a seperate HVAC to hook vent up? Roofer to put roof vent in? Carpenter? It's that one gap I haven't figured out.
I usually install the fan where I want it, pipe it, and install the roof boot. I always have an electrician wire everything. Technically you should have an HVAC guy pipe it and a roofer boot it, but scheduling subs at the same time on the same day for a 30 minute procedure is not always easy and not very economical. If I do everything other than the electrical then it's much cheaper and you don't have 3 different people assuming responsibility if something goes wrong.
Thank you sir. I'm a carpenter but I vent all the bathroom fans I run into during remodels. Easier than having an HVAC guy come to the site for an hour to run a few feet of pipe.
The only thing I would've done different, is ran some plumbers tape between the two joists on the back side of that elbow. Just as a precautionary. But dude, looks clean as hell otherwise!
This looks like a quality install, but it is much better to run the vent down and out the side of the house. Lots of advantages to going down and out, you should check it out.
Wasn't possible to run out the wall on this install. I would have had to completely butcher every stud from the vent to the exterior wall. I also try to avoid dumping moisture onto cedar shingle siding.
Nice. Only thing I do different is use roof tar. It even comes in calking tubes. My dad uses silicon though, and he's been doing HVAC for 30 years so...
As a perfectionist, I appreciate this recommendation. As someone who needs to maintain a certain level of efficiency, I was forced to establish certain tolerances. The aesthetics of the tape on a pipe buried behind walls has become low on my list, as long as the functionality is still there.
This is a fairly quiet fan, 110 CFMs. If you're in a high traffic area you want the noise. That's when it becomes a fart fan lol. I usually ask my customers what they prefer. Some people are loud shitters.
I'm in New England so temps vary pretty dramatically. This boot has already seen below 0⁰ and over 100⁰. There is more you can do to help with extreme cold temps. You can roof cement around the entire boot and insulate the pipe.
Spyder. I highly recommend them. I've used the same bit for a couple dozen roof boots and it's ready for dozens more. They claim it can be used for coring concrete but I doubt it. The only issue is that they have a proprietary bit so you're limited to the one that comes in the kit. They also recalled the gen 1 bit because high torque angle drills would twist them. For normal applications though, they're fast and awesome.
Do you get alot of leakage on snaplock where you are? Here in Western Canada, there's no point in sealing the snaplock seam unless it's for an hrv or hi velocity systems, etc. There's a much deeper pocket, making it harder to put together but a much tighter connection that won't twist or slide on you without screwing or taping the seam.
Check local codes but you can vent out of the wall. I would recommend going above your windows but you can also be a minimum of 4' below windows. The vent also needs to be above any flood/snow levels that would apply to your area. I would also say to consider being on a wall that doesn't get blasted too hard by wind, but that's just personal opinion.
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter lol guy probably lives in the next county over from me. They have no residential building codes there are some cobbled together pieces of trash that people call houses
I call those old snips roofer snips because a roofer grabbed them out of my tool box to cut the metal straps on a box of shingles and nicked the blade. Making it useless for cutting sheet metal
What…you mean don’t use that white plastic slinky pipe and just stick into the soffit? 😂😂 Seriously kudos for an excellent job sir your installation will perform as expected and last the life of the house (or at least the bath fan)
It's a cathedral ceiling and a very short run. This will be fine. I know new England isn't as bad as more northern climates but it's certainly not warm year around.
Possibly. I just consider roof underlayment to be your last line of defense so I'm very hesitant to compromise it. This is also a zip roof with ice and water on the entire roof so as you know that would've been a nightmare to try and peel back.
Could’ve done the hole inside out that way you dont have to go outside with a bucket of tools and the drill falling out and landing down lol , less tool travel the better 😉
That can blow out older more brittle shingles and cause unnecessary damage. You also want to double check where your feeler hole lands and make adjustments to the vent pipe length to make sure the roof boot flanges land properly on your shingle course lines. It's actually pretty rare that the feeler hole is exactly where you want to be on the course lines. I should have mentioned it in the video.
