HOW TO VIDEO: Roofing Basics ...Installing a valley on a shingle roof...the easiest and fastest way 

that's how we install it in Indiana as well. cover's the nails and an extra leak barrier.

sounds like a badass Overkill done right. 💪👍

Mary McKenzie just watch out, he's doing it wrong.

Pinto Bean I agree

Theres nothing wrong with it, per se, but, he has seams on seams. Thats the sign of a hack right there. Shitty work.

Lol...thanks for posting!

Jeff DeLuca "Plenty of nails"?!? Right in the fuckin valley.. That's retarded and you must not be a roofer if "plenty of nails" is what you look for in your valleys Lmfao.. Partnered with 4inch slivers of a shingle to end your run into the valley.. Eric, your videos are great, this is the first video i've watched of yours that I didn't feel like it was done correctly... And to the commenter, you're a dumbass.

Yeah nails in the valley is a no go. You also don't nail through the metal you nail so only the head catches the side. This way you don't get the wrinkles you have. Also your using way to many nails it's 4 nails a single not 6 or 7. I don't get these guys that are about doing quick and having tail light warranties. Ps never had a leak on any roofs I've installed but fixed plenty from others that wouldn't come back to own their mistakes

Yep. thats basically a shitty ass california valley 😅😅.

he would fail inspection. not supposed to do valleys like that

jose perez it all depends on what code is for your state and the material he's using. malarkey material states that it's fine to do that. but CertainTeed says no, so it all depends

qmax1969 I agree, that makes you a real pro

qmax1969 ......always a full shingle out of the valley...if i need a small piece. ..tab..... i put it in other side of my whole shingle

chris mosher yes I agree ,that is when you start from the opposite side of the valley, but like I said I prefer to start my shingles from the valley Is faster once you learn to nail to the left or to the right

I also start working out of the valley and just run it back. Much faster and you only have one cut. I start working out of the valley on both sides that way it's only to do the valley cut, clip the corner, and run it back to the eve. I go up 3 or 4 courses before cutting the ends. I just find it's faster when you have 1 person taking care of the valleys while the other guy is finishing the runs up the roof

Iko starter

+John Rawlins you are right ! I run out of starters ...I ordered 2 bundles and I was short 2 pieces at the valley area...LOL I don't like to use 3 tabs shingles as starters because the starter bundle gives me more lineal feet than the bundle of 3 tabs. Greetings from CA ...where we have 1 week of rain the whole winter.

This is a sharks tooth pattern in a metal valley for shingle application how can you get better? State Certified Journeyman Roofer/waterproofer & contractor approved. What he did wrong was work into the valley instead of out he cut twice books (pattern) on the rake edge and his tie into the sharks tooth valley. I almost always used this style valley especially with gravey 4/12 pitch, it runs out perfectly with points on the line. This valley is in manufacturers specs, if you were a certified installer you would know that. On steep you cut into valley like he did, because pitch affects pattern. Nail guns work both ways if you use your brain don't have to be lefty to run lefty, just practice video maker. Stay thursty!

thank you sir

Thank you sir , I'm glad my video was able to help you , it's the purpose of any video I upload , to reach some one in the crowd and help with my tips. thanks for watching . greetings. Eric.

Prob called California valley bc ppl over there do everything the easy way or the wrong way. I live in Texas & that shit causes leaks here. Its ok bc they are EASY to pull up & re-shingle 😅

Both seams were over valley. No biggie

It seems like this guy who was doing this valley he said that he knew what he was doing because he has been doing roofing for twenty six years and this guy needs to desliza that just because you been doing roofing for twenty six that doesnt means everything he doing is right. well guess what my friend if you been doing it wrong all those years you don’t know jack you have to learn correctly and than my be you can brag a little I raeally don’t know wh they let these folks do these vidios

it's an option,the other one it's called ...closed cut valley

I think it depends on where you live. I live in the high desert of California with a 3 in 12 roof, and I think a metal valley is a bad idea for me because the weather here changes by 30 degrees everyday. Since metal has a different expansion rate than shingles, it causes a lot of friction and therefore...wear. The metal also gets searing hot in the sunshine, causing the shingles nearby to overheat, and then warp and deteriorate. I really mulled over the idea of using metal or not, and ended up just going with a closed cut valley with an inverted 36" wide rolled roofing for a membrane running verticle all the way up the valley, underneath the shingles. I had a lot of synthetic paper under the valley as well. This was my first roofing job ever. I did all the work by myself. We've had a lot of rain with wind over the last couple months and the roof worked flawlessly. I did the closed cut valley in my own special way. Since I had a lot of time on my hands I cut the upper shingles so that the upper top corner butted up against the lower edge of the lower layer of shingles. Doing this was time consuming, but it made the second layer of shingles lay twice as flat inside the valley, giving a lot more protection from dirt, wind and wind driven rain. It will also keep those shingles cooler as they are laying flat and being cooled by the attic air. I really need to make a video showing this, but it's easy to understand once you see how the shingles meet in the valley. It's just a really bad idea to have gaps under the shingles where wind, dirt and water can sneak under and cause all kinds of problems, especially on a low slope roof in a high wind area.

Overlap, and cut the main is the most secure way to do it no matter where you are, but this way here works for warm and dry places like California.. Hence the name, "California valley"

Nap Horse that seam is above the starter or stringer shingle and the metal...not recommended and I see your concern but being above that stringer it can't leak. Good eye tho.

I'm with you bro, might not leak(probably will eventually) but still bad practice/habit that you definitely don't want to make a regular thing

I think it depends on where you live. I live in the high desert of California with a 3 in 12 roof, and I think a metal valley is a bad idea for me because the weather here changes by 30 degrees everyday. Since metal has a different expansion rate than shingles, it causes a lot of friction and therefore...wear. The metal also gets searing hot in the sunshine, causing the shingles nearby to overheat, and then warp and deteriorate. I really mulled over the idea of using metal or not, and ended up just going with a closed cut valley with an inverted 36" wide rolled roofing for a membrane running verticle all the way up the valley, underneath the shingles. I had a lot of synthetic paper under the valley as well. This was my first roofing job ever. I did all the work by myself. We've had a lot of rain with wind over the last couple months and the roof worked flawlessly. I did the closed cut valley in my own special way. Since I had a lot of time on my hands I cut the upper shingles so that the upper top corner butted up against the lower edge of the lower layer of shingles. Doing this was time consuming, but it made the second layer of shingles lay twice as flat inside the valley, giving a lot more protection from dirt, wind and wind driven rain. It will also keep those shingles cooler as they are laying flat and being cooled by the attic air. I really need to make a video showing this, but it's easy to understand once you see how the shingles meet in the valley. It's just a really bad idea to have gaps under the shingles where wind, dirt and water can sneak under and cause all kinds of problems, especially on a low slope roof in a high wind area.

I don't think it makes any difference if you apply roof cement or not , because the 2 shingles together hold that nail in place , you supposed to rise of lower your nailing patter to hit the board. Probably your boss has his own ideas , but the code requires to hit the board , also if you have a crooked nail, you supposed to hit it with the hammer to prevent damaged to the shingle on top with it's sharp head. you only supposed to apply roof cement when the nail is between the join of 2 shingles and water will run on top of that nail, or install a piece of starter under the water line. some roofers don't care , but again every roofer works different , in my case , I try to stick to the building codes strictly because I have to pass inspection on 90% of my jobs. the other thing is , if something goes wrong I'm liable for the next 5 years on a shingles roof , 10 years on a tile roof and so on . When you work for a company ...you don't have be responsible for the labor warranty, at the end your day , you get paid and go home . It all depends how you work out the deal , probably your boss had water leaks in the past and don't want them anymore .

okay thanks eric, you da man