Having run tons of wires and low voltage (speaker, network, fiber, satellite) in attics. Always wear a hardhat and a thick shirt its amazing easy it is to smack a roofing nail and get scratched or worse.
I'm wondering: For a Dutch guy it's super confusing to see the breaker box outside of the house. Why is this and isn't having it inside way more practical?
U.S. building codes can be odd depending on where you live. In my state, we do 16 inch centers but, because my mobile home was manufacfured in a different state, I have 12 inch centers on loas bearing walls.
I would like to know what code cycle they are on. Probably should be a afci breaker and if the outlet is within 6 feet of the sink needs to be gfci as well
Whoever wired those double pole breakers apparently decided to use 12/2 instead of 12/3 either because it was handy or just cheaper. It's okay, but you should wrap some red or black tape on each end to indicate hot wire. Personally I'd use 12/3, land the neutral wire on the neutral/ground bus bar and the other end capped in the receptacle box if it's currently not needed for a 240v outlet.
Is house electrical wiring done before roofing, some so those spaces are to tight to work in. I was scouting the internet few months ago looking for such video to extend a socket for my washer, I used my intuition and was successful, I did exactly the same steps and I'm a supper pro 💪🏾😂
Neutral and grounds should be bonded at your first means of disconnect which this would be since you can see panel is being fed directly from the meter
yeah, on 12-2 wire rated for 20A connected to a 20A breaker. Mike really should switch this out to a proper 20A duplex outlet instead of a 15A rated one
@@jimrumsey8077 thanks. Must be state specific code then. I’m from Canada and this would never pass here. At least the wire rated higher than the outlet so it can carry the amperage safely. Still. I would have at least put a 15A breaker in the panel at the other end so when looking at the outlet it would match its rating.
It's not that the 15 amp receptacle is wrong, but it's a residential grade, I'd switch to a commercial spec grade or a 20 amp single receptacle. The single 20 amp would define the circuit as a true dedicated circuit, which it should be for a microwave.
I think the code in Europe dictates that you can only run a cable in a plastic type through the house calling it a “group”. You. Any just run a naked cable like this through the house. That’s a fire hazard.
In the US, Romex cabling used in indoor applications can be run without any extra conduit aside from the jacket, in this case yellow for a 12 gauge wire, which is a heavier gauge supporting a 20 amp circuit appropriate for a heavy current pulling appliance like a microwave. There can always be exceptions of course.
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