Be advised, this HPFP can leak internally and dilute the engine oil. The symptoms will be hard starts after shutting down a hot engine for an hour, misfire at idle after the engine has warmed up, and negative fuel trims as low as negative 100. No issues off idle. My Mk7 GTI was at the dealer for 2 weeks and 4000 dollars later it was not fixed. I replaced the high pressure pump and all operating parameters are back to normal.
Quick question. I have a mk6 so I'm not sure if the same applies. I've been suspecting my HPFP of being problematic for a while. How were you able to properly diagnose it as the issue? I ran VCDS and checked block 106 for fuel rail and my actual was between 38.9 and 40.09 bar. It falls within spec, but nearly all the symptoms you listed apply to me. How are you measuring fuel trims so I can also check for the negative 100 symptom?
We had a 2.0t audi that came in and no one could figure out the misfire and I eventually found the oil thin and smelling like gas, found the hpfp was leaking internally and replacing it fixed all the issues, then a couple months later we had another one come in and my hunch was same issue and bam it was.
My 2008 Audi A3 8P1 1.8TFSI is currently suffering fuel in oil. Changed fuel injectors and it ran for 3 weeks before red critical low oil pressure warning re-appeared this Saturday gone I found the oil smelling of fuel. I've now order a new Bosch HPFP. Really hoping this is the problem otherwise it's going to be pricey penny at the garage and I'm wondering if it's even worth it.
Literally my problem. Dont know about fuel in oil as I change my oil very very often😅. But every other issue you mentioned is exactly what I’m having. Just bought one yesterday. The hard starting is getting out of hand and it’s embarrassing!!!
Here's how mine went out on the 1.8 tsi. Initially I had hard starts every now and then, didn't care much as i thought my battery is not liking the weather and it only happened on cold starts. Then I left the car parked for 2 days straight and on the third the car had a little thump while idling and when you hit the gas while on neutral it revs normally to almost 4K. Then while driving the car wouldn't rev above 3K and would start stuttering until i lift of off the accelerator then it would up shift and keep going. To my surprise, the check engine light was out (bulb was burnt) and upon hooking up the scan tool it showed a fuel rail pressure low code. Changed the pump with a used one and drove the hell out of the car and it was all smooth.
There's another failure mode for these pumps. Where the pump is still working but some fuel is leaking past the pump piston into the top of the engine causing fuel in your engine oil. This is bad! I saw a video over at Diagnose Dan about this. The symptoms: codes for fuel mixture too rich while long and short term fuel trim are both showing negative values. Exhaust gas smelling strongly. Potentially test by removing oil level dip-stick, hold it several meters away from your engine bay and offer up a lit match/lighter flame to it. Oil Should not catch fire unless first heated to smoke point. If it does catch fire there's fuel (gas) mixed in with it.
This video is exactly what I needed to see. My 2006 2.0 T Has low power while trying to accelerate. I already had a feeling that it was my High Pressure Fuel Pump just because I had the low pressure in my fuel tank checked already and it’s working... So now I know that I’m going to the mechanic with more confidence of what’s going on and will get him to check the synod on the pump to see if it’s working. 👍🏾
Bought a Audi A3 TDI from the emissions recall back in Oct. 2019. Catastrophic HPHP failure after owning for 3 months. Towed 115 miles to Audi dealer and they called after an hour of diagnostics $139.00 claiming fuel was contaminated with gasoline and would not be covered under the warranty extension. I immediately asked the service manager how they tested for the gasoline and he said he didn't know but that is what his technician relayed to him. I called Audi CS and they didn't know then I called two more Audi dealer service departments, one saying they had an instrument in which he recanted after talking to someone else and the other saying they don't have a test. I feel like I was lied to and I know for a fact I have used nothing but low sulfur diesel. The fueling guard is also in place. Is there a test that they can run in shop for fuel contamination or not? I do have a baggie of fuel where I checked the filter that I am taking to a local fuel lab tomorrow. If they are right I definitely will need to apologize.
I'm in the exact same situation. We bought a Audi Q5 TDI demonstration car at 4000km drove for 4 days and the car suddenly stopped. We got it towed to Audi centre and they said it's not under warranty because of 'bad fuel'. It will cost 15k to replace everything... What happened after you got it checked??
We refuelled it but certainly didn't misfuel since we have a receipt. The service manager is saying there are metal filings within the fuel tank and that the only possible way this has got into the tank is by being filled in. Also there are some metal shavings in the HPFP and the filter is quite dirty. We are still confused and shocked
@@hour1834 I went ahead and paid $6500. for the repair. Since I had pulled a fuel sample when I checked out the filter before having it towed I sent it to be tested by FOI labs. When picking up the vehicle the technician told me they had no way of testing the fuel but Audi wouldn't cover without a fuel test. This is bad business saying fuel is contaminated and not covered by the warranty but having no proof that it is contaminated. The fuel test showed no gasoline in the diesel and very low sulfur content. I'm still working with Audi customer service on the situation.
Brian Conn certainly bad practice! We had to get our fuel independently tested as well. Waiting for the results at the moment. We’re gonna take it to fair trading and ACCC. Are you based in Australia by any chance?
I have a few questions for mechanics reading this. When diesel is ‘bad’ or ‘contaminated’ doesn’t that refer to water or some sort of algae? Could it also be metal filings in fuel? Also if there is a catastrophic failure can metal end up in the fuel tank?
Hi, I have a 2015 mk7 GTI which rough idles when cold started. sometimes it throws up EPC light too but upon scanning with VAG-COM no faults were recorded. Everything comes back to normal if I just switch it off and restart. What do you suggest checking?
Most of the failures on EA113 motors I ran across were due to neglect - not changing the cam follower. I've found two broken hpfp pistons in EA888 motors. In one the customer told me it was stalling at every light and constantly misfiring for several weeks. It stalled three times at the same green light and wouldn't start again. Along with the borked hpfp it was very low on oil and the timing chain tensioner failed. I tell all my 2.0T customers that a few quarts of the most expensive oil is far cheaper than a valve job. But I digress...
Can this pump makes metal debris in oil engine i saw couple ford gdi engines with failing this part actually pump was full of metal debris trough injectors ended in engine oil saw those flakes
Hi my high pressure fuel pump has been rattling on cold starts really bad and also when accelerating but don't have any codes, car has not that much power as before could it be bad. It's not a VW it's a Kia optima.
I'm so mad. I replaced a PCV valve on a 2015 beetle today and the engine bay was getting so hot previously that the top sender on the HPFP broke off while I was working. Doesn't appear to be any way to service that part....so a new HPFP is needed all because of the crappy placement of that solenoid
replacing my second one and found that the hpfp spring had stayed recoiled which led to the codes, however the hard gas rail wont sit flush to insert into the bottom. also, i really dont want to have to remove the air intake system just to wrench over the rail so that it fits. woo.
Thanks alot this was very helpful. My car still starts and moves but once I switch it off. It won't start up again. There's a trick I learnt,pour water on top of the pump wait for engine to cool for a bit then start it up. Hope it works for someone who might be stranded
After a long run when I stop my skoda superb 1.8 petrol for long time and then I tried strat. ....it cranked but wont start ....but when i removed the front soft pipe line from hfpp and then strong petrol pressure realsed from the hfpp and my car star immediately ....please please please reply same pump no check engine light
dude man I took the cover off of the pump where the sensor and the Schroeder valve are and I am not sure I put it back together right! is there somewhere I can find a diagram of the whole pump blown up
German cars are designed for germany; where every 2 years you must do a full comprehensive check on your car and fix everything every 2 years, the part replacement engineering racket.
I got an issue that pressure is very much bigger, also when I remove the highpressurepump testplug it pulls a lot of air out of it and when I remove manifold it says phuuuh. Dunno whats the issue tho..
Does this part cause a severe engine malfunction only in the morning? Does it cause the exhaust to be black? Please respond and pay attention. Thank you
Hi I have a 15 Audi A3 2.0 quattro gasoline engine I was making line to cross the border I have it in idle most of the time the car starts shaking and it dies, I wait for 15 min and it starts again it stays on for around 10 min and it dies again I wait for 15 min again and it starts then I cross the border and drove it 40 miles on the highway and works good can you help me please
I have exactly the same problem! My HPFP is still ticking, does that mean that it works correctly? I have a rattle noise during acceleration at low rpm and random misfires. My car is a VW GOLF 1.8 TSI 2010.
@@Fucklesticks i have the 1.8 TSI engine. I looked what the desired and required pressure was in the fuelrails and they where the same while driving. So I guess that the hpfp is not the problem. I'm still searching....
I have a 2008 s3 8p 2.0tfsi which is running lean. Car has a bigger intercooler and a performance chip tune, produces 330 hp @3200. If I drove it constantly under 2200rpm it goes into limp mode with "p0171 lean off idle" code with ltft over 21%. If I drove it over 2200rpm car gives power back and ltft settles at 13-14%. VCDS says that required and actual pressure is fine in both hpfp and lpfp width almost no difference. Lpfp duty cycle is 57-58% at idle and 60-62% off idle at 21% engine load (where usually freeze frame sets - 1800rpm). Cam follower replaced and no wear on the shaft, pcv replaced, injectors brand new (seals too). MAF readings are fine, 3,5g/s at idle, 10g/s when rpm held at 3000, and 208g/s in 2nd wot. Smoke/pressure tested the hole system for vacuum and boost leaks, no leak. Now I suspect that either the lpfp is wearing out or my hpfp is not up to the job anymore as this fault started like 2-3 months ago. Please let me know If I can provide any more info and thank You in advance for helping.
I have Golf 5 gti nd it's problem it stops myb 5 times in less 22km from their I wait little bit it starts nd go it's not long I hv put fuel pump in the tank
Im in the process of going from stage 1 to a stage 2 file on my 1.4TFSi. My question is, should i upgrade my HPFP to a 1.8TFSi or just go straight to a 2.0TFSi HPFP? This is a requirement but im curious to know if the 2.0 version is the better one or would the 1.8 version suffice?
I’ve got an EPC light on a 2014 VW Jetta 1.8T comfortline with a code P229500 “fuel pressure regulator “B” control circuit low” and a P164E00 Oil pressure regulation valve electrical error.. everything I can find on it says it’s a wiring connection to the HPFP… is this the case how can I fix this without having to buy a whole new hpfp?
I have a 2007 Audi a6 3.2l with code p2296 would I need to replace the hpfp? It stall and idles rough sometimes has misfire codes. Any help would be appreciated.
Just found this video and shed light on the way my car is setup. I have a mk4 gti with the 1.8t and a shop did the build. Couldn't figure out why they had an in tank pump and then a 2nd pump near the engine. So looks like the in-tank is providing the 2nd pump with low pressure volume and then once it gets to the 2nd its giving the fuel rail a higher pressure so the larger injectors can spray what they need. I just had a no start yesterday, and sounds like the 2nd fuel pump primes intermittently. There much be a relay or something that turns it on, not sure where to check it yet though.
I never checked when my last fuel pump went but would bad electrics on a fuel pump cause the fuse in the engine bay to pop? I believe f23 in the engine bay fuse box, on my car it was a 5 amp.
easier ? my ass burnt 8 hours on this job. I lost the screw which secures the fuel line on high pressure pump twice inside the engine bay as it has to be tightened from the bottom on Audi A4 quattro B7. I had to visit dealership twice lol
I have kia sportage 2014 gdi car is working but not have power and determination and the code P0193 is appear I change the fuel real pressure sensor now car not starting eanles i remove the fuel real pressure sensor or wire of high pressure pump if the tow is plug in car not starting
i just replace the high pressure fuel pump and the low pressure pump in the tank on my b6 1.8 tsi but the car is still stalling just after 5-10 km when scanned it reflects the high pressure pump
I did the same thing on my 2014 a5 Quattro. The Audi guy said my gas was to hot and sending vapor through the high pressure fuel pump. Looking for a fix now.
Can it bring up your O2 sensors saying running rich ? And O2 sensor running lean ? Because I have changed all O2 sensors and still same errors come up! My back fuel pump has been changed but not the high pressure one, sometimes the high pressure pump sensor says faulty even though it’s a new one!
Im getting p2293 then miles later im getting p12a4. Takes a mile or two for first code. Car drives fine. Cam looks fine. Replaced follower and hpfp from a doner car that i have. swapped fuel pump. Swapped rail sensor. Still cant get the code to stop coming back. 2010 audi a4 quattro
2009 vw CC 150k No start condicions codes: PO101 mass or air flow circuit po342 cam shaft position sensor a circuit low input P2015 intek manf runner position sensor bank one P2293 Fuel pressure regulator 2 performance p2294 Fuel pressure regulator 2 control circuit P 2295 fuel pressur regulator 2 contol circuit low. all that after my son was driving about 70mph and engine cut off and won't start, i did have to tow the car to my home and not sure if a should start buy with this part, or any ideas will bevery thankfull.... and its his first car...2009 vw cc TSI 2.0
Thank you for the video,i have a problem with this pump, it gets really hot and eventually plastic connector melts. i have replaced and installed a new one but still have the same problem ,What could this be?
I like how VW just uses a rubber hose and clamp for bringing gasoline into the high pressure fuel pump. I hate those stupid plastic lines that use an o-ring and clip to seal. They crack.
QUESTION I HAVE A 2012 PASSAT 3.6 THE OTHER DAY THE KEY WAS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND THE CAR WOULDN'T TURN OF SO PULLED THE FUEL PUMP FUSE ON THE SIDE OF THE DASH PUT IT BACK IN AFTER I CHANGED THE IGNITION NOW I HAVE EPC ,P2293 & p0087 any advice Car is in limp mode
This happened to me on my 13 gli cbfa today, after carbon cleanin upoer timing seal and cam seal i think th hpfp went or something thought it was the pcv change that and n ok thing, car is smoking but wont start keep getting low fuel pressure code and misfire codes
I got 2014 vw passat 1.8t gen3, i am getting EPC light and scanner says Torque limited due to fuel pressure, and it make noises in low rpm when under load. Do i have high pressure or low pressure fuel pump bad?
Hey bro. My car just stalled after a short acceleration. I stopped, ran the test vsds.. No freaking errors at all. Strange. Cranked and it started right away. So far nothing i can think of. 140 block measures 40 psi at idle, no loss of power of any kind. Any idea what happened? i was on a secobd gear, pushing gas after almost a complete stop.
Can i use an audi Q5 3.2 hpfp on an A6 C7 3.0T.? They looked same but migh not work right. I having some long crank on the mornings, low pressure fuel pump is new .
I just replaced this pump and my car will start and die after 2-3 seconds even at idle. I've also already replaced the in tank fuel. I need ANSWERS!!! Please anyone help.
One more thing , like a truck if I hit the start button wait 30 seconds starts no problem but if I start without waiting I get 3 second of trying to start then starts . Not sure what else I can do .
Help please my 2009 Jetta gli 2.0 tsi keeps blowing the fuel supply line off of the hpfp I thought the spring clamp was weak installed a hose clamp extra tight still blowing off I can’t find any information on the low pressure side of the fuel system
Good Day to you (advice needed) I am Charles M. I recently financed a 2010 VW cc 2.0t in Arizona. After driving it to California and back to Arizona a few times and keeping up with the oil changes. I noticed the engine would not start at times after driving to a store I would come out and start the VW it would start than drive 10 feet than stall at times 10mins to as long as 30mins. I also noticed now in California the low oil pressure light comes on after about 25 mins of driving above 40mph. I did a diagnostic check and got 2 codes P2293, P2401. The older gentleman also share that the oil pump on German cars very rarely go out and maybe the oil pan needs to be clean out really well that this can congest the flow of oil once heated causing the pump to struggle. I did finance the Direct Injection High Pressure Fuel Pump - 2010-2017 Volkswagen CC 2.0L 4-Cylinder - Bosch Hoping to solve this issue. I can do the work myself I just would like some advice if you will. Thanks for your time -Charles M. Make it a great day!
I got a P2293 Fuel Pressure Regulator 2 Performance. And looking at data around 4psi boost I'm getting drop out of high pressure fuel actual. Was at 1/8 tank of fuel when was happening. Shut off car, filled to full and then it ran fine.
I've got this and can't seem to get it to clear have changed in tank fuel pump, fuel pressure sensor, coil packs and fuel cap, still getting the same code 😔
How about a rough start and no light ? I changed the injectors plugs coils throttle body Maf. I’m doing that pump as soon as it gets here ! Anything you think I’m missing ? And water pump been changed
I had a 2008 VW EOS that had the P2293 code. Low pressure was fine. Check the High Pressure pump. Replaced pump and follower which both looked fine. Got frustrated and tested sensors which seemed fine. Found a fuse marked F6 15amp which was blown and indicated that it was for the instrument cluster in the owner manual. Changed fuse and fixed the problem. I will have to dig deeper because I have no idea why that fuse would have blown and the instrument cluster was working fine. Have driven for over a week now and no problems and fuse hasn’t gone out again. Crazy strange!
Hey what’s up dude, im a big fan! I only have like 2 volts going to the hpfp solenoid? Fuse and relay are fine. I have low voltage in that whole circuit? Have you ever seen this? Replaced hpfp. Thinking the ecu is no good? Does the ecu varies the voltage? Im getting computer ground at the solenoid. Any help would be very much appreciated 🙂🤙 also just picked up from body shop and of course they were like oh it came in that way! They did say they had to jump it and charge the battery????
I have a no start at my shop 2015 2.0t low fuel rail pressure code. I checked low side pressure with mechanical gauge and was reading 80psi. Using ross tech I'm getting 9 bar rail pressure. I replaced the hpfp and follower and still have 9 bar. I have 12v at the solenoid but no ground coming from the ecm when cranking. Cam lobe appears to be fine and when I rotate the crank I can see it moving. Checked signal at ecm and none is present. I'm thinking maybe a bad driver in the ecm but the ecm has to come from vw Germany so I guess I want to be sure not not missing something here. Any advice would be appreciated. I'veactually have tries 2 different hpfp with the same results think I might have gotten a bad one. Could a faulty rail pressure sensor cause the ecm to not command the hpfp solenoid perhaps.
Hi, Great video. Thanks. My golf 1.4 tsi twincharged was running fine, just had water pump leak, so replaced water pump and also did the full service including spark plugs, engine oil, filters, dsg service, drive /serpentine belts and pulley changed. When I start the car, it started idling rough, no power at all, when press acceleration nothing happens instantly, then very slowly it speed up. Check the spark plug, which has done 1 mile hardly, they were black. All 4 got black. Few codes came up too, initially it was p000A , when I changed camshaft sensor it disappear and 2 other codes came on, p3008 and p0341. Then I put the old sensor back, then only p3008 remained. I replaced coolant temp sensor, thrust sensor, camshaft adjuster valve, put new spark plugs, but changed fuel filter. And also double each & every part for compatibility, bought from main dealer. After starting new spark plugs, I started and it was sane. I again check all plugs, they were all slightly black carbon on them, all 4 were in same condition. No oil, just black carbon. I was thinking may be I left any vacuum pipe back in? But if it was vacuum leak then it’s lean Condition and the spark plugs shouldn’t be getting black carbon on their tips. More fuel coming in as compare to air, that’s why I changed coolant sensor, Can faulty high pressure pump cause this condition, rough idling, misfiring (if look at exhaust), spark plug getting black with in few minutes of idling. Also can these symptoms caused by over filling of dsg oil? I put back same amount of oil (4.8 litres)which was flushed out ? Please help
I have a audi a4 2.0TFSI 2008 the high pressure fuel pump has a leak how can I fix it or do I have to buy a brand new one I hope not because there really expensive if you can help we with my problem I would really appreciated
Hey ive got a Question , On the 2016 1.8 polo 192ps gti tsi DAJA, I need to remove & re-seal valve cover, can the hpfp stay bolted to the vacuum pump & remove it as one piece once the adapter ,hoses & the high-pressure line to the unions nuts are unattached? Or do the have to be seperated before the vacuum pump is unbolted from the cylinder/cover surface ? Thanks in advance
Humble Mechanic care to comment on what audible noise is characteristic of a failing HPFP if any? i suspect one of my clients has a bad pump. I replace these pumps routinely in other german imports and usually failure is due to an internal seal and there is no audible or visual indicators of failure. In the case of the 2010 VW CC i'm evaluating currently, there is an audible chirping noise (rhythmic) that I suspected might be the vacuum pump initially but after new vacuum pump installed, and chirping remains, delayed starts ..im leaning toward this pump. Car has an ecu issue by which im not able to connect a VAG to read the check engine light that is on, so i'm having to go on other diagnostic indicators such as the one you asked about. Anyone out there from HUMBLE MECHANIC channel wish to comment?
hey chariles got 2009 adui a4 2,0 cranks no start i check for spark and it has spark and here is the codes p2296 p0010 ,,,the battry is junk for starters my frind thinks timing chaine ? if the battry is new and its getting spark and if i shot it with starting fuiled it should run ? what ya thurts let me know
Hi there! I have 2 codes for the hpfp. The car doesnt start. When i check channel 140 with the car off, im reading around 9 bar. Should it be 40bar at that time already or is that good before the car starts?
Hello again . My problem : Hello. I have a smal problem with my mk6 gti 2009 manual gear box . when I try to go on a very strong start, changing the 2nd gear remains stuck as if the gas does not come .. 1gear is very brutal is i normal... that's only when I'm very sporty .. if I use the normal car it's all normal ... in other words I can not have a very brutal launch control because the second shift is dead. If i change a 2shift before 5-6000rmp all is ok ... so : I'm stop . I'm going to force 1shift up to the maximum same like a (brutal lunch control) push the clutch to change 2shift, go in 2shift and it's all stuck ... the car is not accelerating. The gear box is ok . All work perfect if i don t go in a max rmp with 1shift. Pls help me. I try today 2shift to 3 shift gear and do the same . All changed after 6000rmp next gear is blocked ... no gas no acceleration. Thank you.
So i have a problem on my 2012 a4. I went to auto zone and A code of P2188 came up and i saw that it might be the MAF but then i started to look at forums and other people said they replaced the HPFP and its solved their problem hopefullly this solves my problem. Today i had some weird symptoms not sure if its related to this but my car would crank and wouldn’t start unless i would press on the gas pedal and it would start sputtering a little, and a weird smell came from the exhaust but nothing like smoke & yes i have changed the spark plugs and coils so im not sure what this could be any ideas?
Hey guys, my VCDS reading saying I’m pushing 109.99 on the fuel rail pressure when it should be 130, it’s on a Audi A3 2.0TFSI BWA engine. Is my HPFP failing? Or just the cam follower?
I have been watching lpfp duty cycle in my 2012 gti with obdeleven. At idle, rail pressure bounces between 555 and 580 psi with lpfp duty% between 50 and 62. Duty% maintains a constant value ,idleing, but seems higher on warmer days. All seems fine to me but im curios Can the hpfp suck fuel from the low side? Like if the lpfp is stugling will the hpfp help it? Once every 2 or 3 months i get a long crank start or have to crank a second time to start only after a short trip when engines hasnt reached operating temp. Im thinking the filter is bad since it incorperates a check valve
Diagnostic - start the car, runs for less than a second. Start car while tapping the solenoid with a wrench, it runs, not well, stop tapping solenoid, engine stops. Replace HPFP.
Hi, I have code P0087 and fuel cuts around 4k RPM after an E85 tune with EQT and install of Autotech HPFP (Pre-assembled). Stock turbo. I had zero issues before installing the new HPFP. Bad HPFP internals?
2015 TSI Passat. My car started stalling in street about ten minutes after starting. I replaced coils and coil packs and still had issues. Eventually it didn’t even start. I just replaced fuel pump control module and it starts but runs poorly. Runs with little power, stutters, and a “puffing” exhaust. I’m ready to replace high pressure fuel pump. Is there anything else I should look into?
I have a stage 2 cupra running stock is38 turbo at 400bhp 400ibft, on monday the turbo went poof. this was the same day i had my hpfp fit with autotech internals, i logged the car on the road and the requested fuel target was being met, do you think this was just classic is38 beahviour?
Does anyone know which online sites to look for a good Fuel Pressure Regulator for 2007 Audi A4 Quattor 2.0? Do I need a new camshaft follower as well or just a gasket?
I'm doing diagnostic on 2013 Chevy traverse I pull the code p228c regulator 1 exceeded control limits - pressure too low, could this be high pressure fuel pump??
I have a 2014 cpra Passat the engine will stall when warm changed hp fp and low pressure pumps I don’t know what else the engine is storing no codes the car cranks but no start could the crank sensor cause no fuel
great info on hp ,but what are normal low pressure readings ? i know 45-90 psi what i have is 90psi on start but after 2min presure stays around 45psi even under heavy load / accel ,is this normal or low pump starving high pump ? my high pump was bad , just looking for reason thanks
