Great video tips on using an angle grinder to sharpen your chipper blades. Saved me from spending $160 on 2 new ones. I would recommend the use of cut resistance gloves when handling a chipper blade. They make really good ones out of either Kevlar or Dyneema. As a safety manager, my biggest fight with you angle grinder guys is to put the guards on the grinder!! It really does prevent injuries.
I just sharpened 2 chipper blades by hand on diamond plates. (Never again...) The fear of killing the temper is what inspired me to do it by hand. Cooling the blade often will be the key if power tools are used. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video. One point that I would make is that blades are not surface hardened but are through hardened tool steel. Tool steels have a combination of toughness and wear resistant for best performance with long life. If excessive grinding is required, then localized heating can cause the metal to be tempered so that it no longer holds an edge.
I found this tile saw works well since the blade is constantly bathed in water. I used an inexpensive cut-off wheel and not a tile saw blade since they only cut on the edge.
The blades that we use are through hardened, but not all at the same Rockwell. The cutting edges are hardened more to prevent wear, while the inside is softer to insure that in a catastrophic failure (rebar entering the chipper), the blades don't explode. With this design, the blades with chip badly and loose the cutting edge, but won't fully explode into shrapnel. Thanks for the comment!!
Lord, you have time to waste. The only part of that blade that really matters is the tip, It doesn't even matter if it is worn in the centre, it's chopping, it's not a pairing chisel. 2 minutes to zip back the blunt part, and job done.
@@SplitFireSalesInc Rubbish, as long as the blade is at approximately the same angle as original, it doesn't matter one jot if the rest of the blade is polished to a katana grade finish. I may not have expressed that clearly enough in my comment, but the originator spent for ever honing and polishing the blade as if it was a pairing chisel or a plain iron where even there your main concern it to micro sharpen the primary bevel. This is a hunking great ball busting machine hacking through chunks of wood it does not need the finesse of a Gillette razor blade. Or maybe you have hours to waste on a crude chopping job too. Me, not so much.
@@capnpugwash5403you're wrong the blade angle is celebrated to the feed hole on the fly wheel. Also lets not forget a secondary bevel on the blade would create extra stress on the motor. No matter the machine a scandi/hollow grind is used. You clearly have no understanding of physics in regards to force vs resistance
@@randomguy-hs3px You obviously think you are very clever. perhaps done a degree in mechanical engineering? Movements of tectonic plates? Astro physics? The blade comes from the manufacturers with one simple bevel. Replicate that and you are good to go. As a tradesman that for several years used to build Rolls Royce motor cars, I learned and can sharpen Chisels, Plane irons, drill bits knives, scissors etc etc by hand. It is frankly ridiculous to suggest a slightly different angle or lack of edge would strain the engine. Otherwise we would have to get out a micrometer to size up each piece of lumbar put through the machine. Also as wood is the precursor to paper which will dull a pair of scissors quite quickly you would have to sharpen the blade after every branch is fed through.
We recommend getting the blades done by a professional. If you don't have the option and don't want to purchase a new set of blades, this is a great option to extend their life.
