12 years later from when you posted this video and today it helped me rebuild my T5C front curl cylinder after searching forever for the positions on the hard seals! Thank you! The heated water tip came in handy as well and was very much needed.
Thank you for the video it helped me confirm the proper orientation of the seals on the piston. My suggestion to get the piston seals on easier and undamaged is to heat the hyd oil to about 200 deg F and dip the seals into the oil just before installing them. I used a cotter key hook tool to install them. The hot oil is recommended as the water may possibly cause corrosion and you need to oil the seals during installation in any case.
Several people had questions about the wire that holds the gland nut. Not all Terramite cylinders have this wire but for the ones that do, you should see or feel the end of the wire sticking out of a hole on the side of the cylinder. It is normally flattened down against the cylinder. Pry it up so that you can clamp vise grips onto it. Alternate prying it up and pushing it while turning the gland nut counterclockwise with a pin tool. You will only move it an eighth to a quarter inch at a time. Continue prying and rotating until it is out. When installing, line up the hole in the gland nut with the hole in the cylinder so that the wire goes into the gland nut and will be pulled in when the nut is rotated clockwise. LEAVE A QUARTER INCH OR SO OUTSIDE THE HOLE. I don't know how you would ever remove it if it was pulled totally inside.
i repair hydraulic cylinders all the time and how i soften the pressure seals is put the seal pack in my pocket and by the time i have removed and stripped the cylinder they are usualy at the right temp this is how i do it out in the field or on a site but in the workshop use this technique.
Good video. I have fitted new seals to hydraulic cylinders before; I once had to repair a bigger cylinder than the one featured here. Getting the hard plastic/composite seal in the groove can be very tricky. Best thing to do is soak the seal in warm water for 5 minutes which will make it expand. Grease the flange to help it slide on better. Manufacturer's say don't use anything to lever it in place just use fingers but this is impossible unless you want shredded finger nails! Very CAREFULLY use a flat blade screwdriver to gently pry the seal over the lip of the groove (too much force will snap the seal) and nudge part of the seal into the groove with fingers. Now carefully lever the screwdriver round the circumference, pushing more of the seal into place with fingers until enough of the seal is in place so that when you remove the screwdriver it will remain in the groove. The rest of the seal should now slide into place easier using just your fingers. Allow plenty of time for the seal to cool down and shrink back down to normal size before re assembling cylinder. Hope this helps!
Good video, hydraulics is one system that is out of my comfort zone. I just purchased a tractor with the Ford 768 loader on it. And found out that one of the lift cylinders is leaking. I've searched for repair manuals for this loader with no luck. The good thing is that the tractor did come with a new seal kit for the loader. Again good video....
I really need to know how you got that piece of rod out of the channel on the end cap to remove it...I removed a spring clip ring from the face of the cap and can rotate the end cap but doesn't seem to want to come out of the cylinder? Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!
Hey man great video! I work in the parts department at Terramite and if you dont mind I may use this video as a reference for customers that are confused on this process. It is on point and would be a great tool for a newbie to the process. Someone said the packing kits was like $60....well for this machine in the video (T5C) te packing kits range from $42 - $47 (as of 10-19-11).
I got the retaining wire turned out with an OTC gland nut wrench. I had to drill out the gland nut holes to fit the pins. It helps turning the whole piston rod at the same time as the nut is turned and the retaining wire walked right out. The next issue is the gland nut seal sticks into the retaining wire groove in the cylinder barrel as you remove the piston rod, I had to use an engine lift to pull out the piston rod as the other cylinder end is mounted vertical on the boom and use the cross pinned, it is a real fight to get this one out. Thanks for the video.
If you get the blue piston seals from Terramite Replacement Parts DON'T heat them prior to installation. I had my seals break. According to the gentleman I spoke with on the phone this is a known issue. Body temp only.
gonna be tackling all the cylinders including steering on a medium sized JCB. was a little nervous but confident that i can do it. after watching this im more than confident I wont have any issues. Great video :)
@tjones2269 I got them from terramitte but they were pricey, thinking like $60 set, but thats just a guess, if you find them cheaper let me know, good luck with it, there tuff machines,,
I am a bit confused about the rod used to lock in the end cap. How do you get that loose to remove in and how do you get I reinstalled again??? I am new at hydraulics. Thanks Tony
there much stronger then a 3point setup, but have there limitations too, you can sweep with the bucket a long as your relistic with the pile your cutting into,
I have wondered about the Terramite mini-backhoes for awhile. I see 'em for sale, used, in the 6-9K range. Can you backfill by pushing sideways with the bucket? I have a friend who has one of those 3-pt hitch backhoes and it's not strong enough to do that. Sux. You should check out Keith Fenner's youTube channel. He has lots of great machine shop vids and he even has one of him rebuilding a cylinder like this with the wire retainer. It's off a wood splitter. He's from Cape Cod. Cheers!
You should mention that most heads on hydraulic cylinders are made from ductile Iron and if you chose to use a punch it should always be bronze or damage will occur due to the soft nature of the material. Also you can have a single seal on the piston with a duel stage cylinder. They are made to take fluid pressure from both sides.
For those poor souls who's ladies won't let you near her microwave, check out garage sales or auctions for one. I find them all the time for 10 bucks or less. Very handy in the shop and when not being used for shop projects you can heat up your left over coffee. Another shop appliance I like is A Coleman camp stove. I like propane but white gas works too. Handy to boil thermostat's along with A thermometer so you can see if it is opening at it's rated temperature. Also nice to have if you lose power and want to heat A can of soup.
You have some really good videos out there with some good tips in them. I won't be able to get away with using the microwave that way. My youngest daughter would see me and tell me that I shouldn't do that. She'd say you know that's wrong and besides mom has eyes in the back of her head and she will catch you.
i just picked up a t5b terramite and a few cylinders are starting to leak so im gonna have to fix em . Whare did you get your seal kits from? how mutch $ did it run ya
