Hyundai / KIA 4 Cylinder Timing Belt & Water Pump - PART 2: Installation 

Glad you like the video. Our pleasure.

There's also a text version with pictures. Here's the address: axleaddict.com/auto-repair/DIY-Hyundai-Elantra-Kia-Spectra-Timing-Belt-Replacement

@@hardlymovingpro 🙏🏽 thank you… I learn better reading the instructions sometimes.

​@@hardlymovingpro thanks a lot ❤l'm the same position now to replace timing belt and pump... And i'm looked the procedure... thank you,thank you ,thank you❤

Thx ... more "tricks" in the making.

I appreciate that!

You're welcome and thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for your comment and support!

You're Welcome!

Thanks!

Thanks! Glad you found the video helpful!

Thank you! Cheers!

Little late but thanks!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks!

No problem.

Sorry. Confused with your question. There is no "metal hose" from the water pump.

There is no mark from my recollection. Around 6 to 7 lbs of torque is what's normally applied to a 10 mm bolt. Use a 1/4" ratchet wrench with hand torque (meaning don't snug it with toque from your elbows and shoulders).

I have a 2008 Kia 2.0 you have a to point out so the same motors my time in tensioner has an indicator on the back you take it with a 12 mm and a 6 mm Allen socket the same time you get the indicator in the window Is it not the same on this car ?

@@charlesbrewer3362 . yes. exactly the same. it's the same motor.

If you buy a Gates brand timing belt kit, it comes with a diagram showing what is top-dead-center (TDC) on both the camshaft and crankshaft. Use that to set your cam and crank before mounting on the new belt.

The engine had to be supported and slightly lifted to relieve support tension on the side motor mount. Once the mount was off, the hydraulic jack can be lowered away. The engine will drop down a little but not fall to the ground. Then the pan can be placed under the engine without interference from the hydraulic jack.

The belt moved to the right side after engine start because the engine rotation is clockwise. To check alignment, you'll have to manually rotate the engine from the crankshaft to top-dead-center (TDC) and see if it's in alignment with the camshaft TDC mark. If the cam alignment is 180 degrees off, rotate the engine again 360 degrees and that'll bring the camshaft to the TDC mark.

You're welcome! That tensioner pulley is a spring loaded design where the pulley spring remains compressed until you pull out the tension pin (also called a granade pin). I believe after you have the belt and the tensioner pulley installed, tighten the pulley bolt where it's semi-tight to allow the tensioner pulley to be adjusted. Then pull out the pin and align the pulley arrow with the alignment block mark via a hex socket and wrench inserted into the tensioner pulley's outer cover hex hole. Once aligned, apply the final torque to the tensioner pulley bolt. Good luck!

Also have a text and picture based article you can reference: axleaddict.com/auto-repair/DIY-Hyundai-Elantra-Kia-Spectra-Timing-Belt-Replacement

Also, I start and run the engine for a couple of seconds instead of rotating the engine. Then I'll check the belt tension and re-tighten if necessary. You can check out my recent Toyota 5SFE timing belt replacement video towards the end of the video and you'll see what I mean.

Perfect!!! Thanks for the additional info. I have done one on an old Mazda pickup, but that was much easier to get to! I also have to work on my daughter’s 2000 Silverado that has one of the leaking Castech cylinder heads. Going to be a busy Christmas break out on the driveway. :)

Ok, so I finally did this job and had a few questions if you don’t mind. I bought a kit from Autozone that included the pump, the tensioner pulley, the idler and the belt. When I compared everything, the new tensioner pulley had a lot more later side play then the original Gates. I went ahead and installed everything and ran the car. I noticed that the arrow drifted out of the window, but would also vibrate up and down. My son drive the car for 800 miles and cane back to town. He said the power steering belt was squealing (new belts). While I was about to tighten the belt, I thought to check the timing belt. When I pulled the cover, I noticed there was belt dust built up on the side nearest the tensioner. It appeared that the back edge of the belt was hitting the lip of the back of the tensioner and rubbing off. Out of caution, I put the old one back and have driven about 30 miles. It does not appear to be rubbing like the old one. The belt naturally sits back pretty far, definitely not in the middle of the pulleys/sprockets. The tensioner is the one piece that really did not seem right. Any insight is greatly appreciated!!!

Belt tensioner adjusted too tight ...IMHO.

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks!

Which gear (crank or cam) is it walking off?

@@hardlymovingpro cam gear

@@rockingoutdudetoo5275 If you followed everything I did on the video, the only thing I can think of is something must be wrong with the belt.

@@hardlymovingpro first timing belt change (with kit) was ok. Drove car for two weeks then I felt the whole car vibrating , thought it was the motor mounts. I heard something slapping in the timing belt cover. Both edges of the belt shredded. So i order a new belt and new tensioner to see if they were the culprit. Nope it did again second time. So third time with the top timing cover off just to see, the belt was running against the left side about 1/4 in off the cam gear in which it was rubbing the bottom timing belt cover.

@@rockingoutdudetoo5275 Can't come up with any logical explanation for your dilemma.

Thanks!

Check electrical fittings and ground points.

شكرا!

That depends. Timing belt only .... timing belt with new water pump ... timing belt with water pump and new tensioner and idler bearings. For everything, around 5 hours shop time. Total cost, based on what part(s) are being replaced can vary between $400 - $600 ... could be more.

Can't say.

Even putting the arrow or point past the mark in the tensioner doesn't do any problem or noise. I have it before from the dealer, then I installed it myself, and then after 40 K miles, re-tight and nothing happened.

Ok but I've replaced coolant soaked gaskets that resulted in pump mounting bolts getting loose and coolant leakage. RTV coatings protects the gasket.

@@hardlymovingpro Wherever you say, you can do what you want, but this step is unnecessary. It's just another headache for beginners. We appreciate all maintenance videos, but please do not make it more difficult.

@@irisbaez1972 Then don't critique videos. Just buy a repair manual and follow their instructions with the tools and techniques they use ... right?

@@hardlymovingpro RIGHT. internet and youtube are free speech, right? FREEDOM RIGHT? if you don't like positive criticism then go to CUBA, my friend, or better yet don't make a video. RIGHT? I think you have a psychological issue.

Setup your own youtube channel and show us the professional way to do it ... for free on your dime!

Elantra ... believe it was a 2002.

Sorry ... don't remember.

Elantra. The engine is used in a lot of different Hyundai cars.

@@hardlymovingpro what year, vin 5 - 1.6l?

Don't remember. Did this repair years ago. Hydundai / Kia timing belt configurations are consistent and haven't changed much.

Strongly disagree. Never, ever had issues using impact tools to take off crank bolts.

That can happen in some engines, just the ones that turn counter clockwise; saying that 90% of the “normal” turn clockwise.

Impact guns hit and twist in micro seconds. Therefore not long enough to turn a crank.

The best way to do it is use a breaker bar and kick start it

Did that before I discovered high torque impact guns.

Actually ... I spoke with someone fluent in Japanese ... she pronounced it more like ... E shin.

@@hardlymovingpro I worked there for a couple of years and my father still works there and everyone there says it like eye - sin or eye zin..

the plant in Clinton TN

And Japan as well?

thanks for your post! You know when I bought my first ac electric impact driver, it cost me over $100. Now they go for under $100. If one is serious about doing HD auto repair and have to deal with bolts that are 17 mm or over, they have to have a high powered impact driver. Filling the crankshaft with oil and sucking it out is a interesting and novel idea ... for those in a desperate situation.

Agree 100%. Timing belts are cheap.