96-11 HYUNDAI 1.6L Timing Belt quick overview/tips Accent kia rio gt 1.6 

See, this is how instructional videos should be. Quick, to the point, and all the relevant info included. Bolt and driver sizes, torque specs if needed, quick pointers on tricky components, and how it's supposed to be laid out at the different intervals along the process. Good work. If the rest of the videos are like this I'm sold. Subscribed.

Courtesy of viewer Donal Keegan Tools and parts needed: 1. timing belt and tensioner kit 2. water pump (if changing) 3. coolant (if changing water pump) 4. torque wrench 5. socket wrench 6.impact wrench (strongly recommended - you can buy a 240v corded one on eBay for about £50) 7. 10, 12, 14, 17 and 22mm sockets Procedure: 1. Jack RHS up and support on a stand 2. Remove wheel and the plastic panel in the arch (10mm bolts) 3. Remove top engine cover (4 x 10mm) 4. Put jack under engine with a wooden block to spread the weight 5. Pull up PS reservoir and move out of the way (a bungee is useful here); you can also remove the bracket to make even more room 6. Support engine with the jack and block and remove the engine mount bracket - 1 x 17, 3 x 14, 1 x12mm 7. Loosen the four 10mm bolts on the water pump pulley 8. Loosen the tension on the alternator 9. Loosen the 12mm tensioner bolt on the PS pulley (through the “eye”) 10. Loosen the 14mm and 12mm bolts on the AC pulley (this one is at the bottom and accessed from the side) 11.Loosen - but do not remove - the 22mm bolt on the crank pulley. An impact wrench is ideal for this. Loosening it with the belt on helps. If not using an impact driver you will need to hold the crank pulley (there are special tools for this). 12.Remove water pump pulley, ac belt and alternator belt 13.Remove top timing belt cover - four 10mm bolts 14.Rotate the engine clockwise using the crank pulley until red mark or notch is lined up with the hole in the camshaft pulley and b) the arrow or T on the crank pulley is lined up with the notch/marl on the crank case (this one is usually at about 2 o'clock) 15.Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt (22mm) 16.Remove the lower cover (five 10mm) 17.Loosen the RHS belt tensioner bolt - 12mm 18.Loosen but do not remove the LHS tensioner bolt 19.Pop the spring of the tensioner over the tab (this is important to avoid damaging the threads on the LHS bolt in step 20) 20.Now remove both tensioner bolts 21.Remove the idler - 14mm 22.Remove timing belt (Skip to step 28 if not replacing water pump) 23.Remove alternator bracket 24.Put a drain pan in place 25.Remove water pump bolts but keep them organized (e.g. as you remove them place them in the corresponding slots in the new pump) 26.Allow coolant to drain 27.Clean mating face of any corrosion etc and fit new pump 28.Install the new idler with the 14mm bolt at 40 ft/lbs 29.Make sure the timing marks line up (see step 14, however now that the crankshaft pulley is removed you will be lining up the dot on the sprocket with the mark/notch on the crankcase) 30.(Optional) Pull off the crank sprocket as it makes it easier to fit the new tensioner 31.Put the new tensioner in place and tighten up the LHS / spring bolt until it is a little more than finger tight - make sure that there is no play as this may result in damage to the threads in subsequent steps 32.Pry the spring over the tab 33.Tighten up the spring bolt a little more but not fully 34.Using a screwdriver to keep the tensioner pulled back to the left, insert the RHS bolt (12mm) and tighten up (again not fully - just enough to keep the tensioner in place) 35.Slide the crank sprocket back on if you removed it in step 30 36.Check the timing marks again (see steps 29 and 14) 37.Inspect the new belt and fit it carefully (you may need to clean all the sprockets first). It should be tight on the right and slack on the left. 38.Now loosen the RHS bolt of the tensioner so that it moves right and pushes against the belt. 39.Check the timing marks again 40.Tighten both tensioner bolts fully - RHS bolt first (I'm unsure what the exact torque is) 41.Refit the lower timing belt cover ( 5 x 10mm) 42.Refit the crankshaft pulley (don't forget the metal cover that goes on first) 43.Tighten up the crank pulley with the 22mm bolt to 108.5 ft/lbs 44.Rotate engine twice (using crank pulley) to verify that timing marks still line up 45.Fit new alternator and AC belts (reverse of steps 10, 9, 8, 7) 46.Refit engine mount bracket (reverse of step 6) 47.Refit PS reservoir (and bracket if you removed it) 48.Refit top engine cover 49.Refit wheel arch cover 50.Refit wheel, lower and torque up 51.Refill coolant (if you changed the water pump). 52.Start up engine and make sure everything is ok. (You will need to bleed air out of the system.)

Great video man. I hate watching a 45 min vid for something that takes 5 mins to explain.

I just did this yesterday. A few differences I would like to add just to help out anyone that might see it: - I was able to do the entire job without removing the motor mount (I wasn't thrilled with the idea of supporting the engine from the oil pan area, although it seems fairly sturdy on this car.). The only thing this made a pain was tightening the water pump bolts but I was able to do it with an offset wrench. - I tried your method of putting the belt on prior to applying tension to the spring but was not able to bend it over the bottom metal tang. I ended up doing it this way: 1. (Did all preliminary work as described in the video), replaced idler pulley, removed crankshaft sprocket temporarily 2. Put tensioner on via the spring bolt fairly loosely (enough to keep it on securely though), with the spring behind the tensioner pulley tang 3. Pried tensioner spring over the engine tang 4. Pushed the mounting bolt area up from the very bottom with a large screwdriver into the position where it would apply the least tension to the belt, then held it in this area and tightened the bolt until the pulley would not move 5. Put crankshaft sprocket back on 6. Put the timing belt on (route = crankshaft -> idler -> camshaft -> tensioner) 7. Released the mounting bolt so that tension would be applied, and then torqued the tensioner bolts to spec Again, as you said, there are other methods for the tensioner, and I found this one a little easier and safer from a damage risk perspective. Otherwise this is a great video and I used it as a reference to gauge the job difficulty. Thank you very much!

I wish every video was like this, straight to the point, no wasting time but still extremely detailed and informative. Good stuff

Thank you so much for this. I feel like I watched this a hundred times whilst doing the job. For any first-timers: Remove the spark plugs. Overcoming compression will be hard otherwise whilst rotating the engine and it might not be possible to achieve TDC. Regarding the spring, I spent ages trying to get it on as shown and in the end removed the belt entirely and slipped the cam sprocket off. Wound the bolt in a little bit more, wedged a screwdriver behind the lowest protrusion in the block casting (more like a line than the round nub), pried the spring towards the tang then when it was compressed enough to clear the tang, pushed on it with a second big flat head screwdriver to set it. This method took seconds and didn't feel like a fight at all. After that, mount the belt and pry the tensioner down to slip the belt over it last. For some reason I had to move the crank back from TDC a tiny tiny bit to get the belt on with the tension on the correct side. Otherwise it was either under by a tooth or wouldn't go on. After that I advanced it again to apply more pressure and tension and get the crack back at a precise TDC. Probably not the best idea but it worked. Anyone without air tools struggling with the crank pulley bolt: A trick I've used on Subaru engines before and I would imagine works here as well (CAUTION) is to remove the fuel pump relay, put a breaker bar on the bolt and have the end of the bar on the ground. Crank the engine as briefly as you can. Might go the first time or take a couple shots. On the flat four however the crank pulley is in the front of the bay so it can be done with tyres on so when the nose of the car inevitably hops up it doesn't land back onto jack stands. Il-advised? Yes. Does it work? Maybe.

I am sure others have said it but this is how RU-vid mechanics need to be quick simple and right to the point I am a Subaru mechanic but my uncle asked me if I would do a timing belt water pump for one of these and needed to see what to charge him so thank you keep it up you definitely deserve a follow

Holy cow. I've watched plenty of this stuff and this is the speed and rate I want to get the info. I don't need five minutes on the different types of torque wrenches or how to hold the hood up... Great job!

The name of your channel perfectly describes your excellent video. I wish more RU-vid mechanics would just skip all the intros, talking and jokes just get to the point. Well done, sir.

I'm overdue replacing my belt on my 1.6, yes this video helped tremendously. ... The spring tensioner had me stressing because I didn't quite understand the procedure, but awesome video regardless.

You Rick man! So refreshing to have a short and information ritch video.

Best tutorial ever. Straight to the point no BS

I have done these before, but a couple years back. I needed a quick tutorial. Thanks.

Best description of tools, order, size of bolts. Wow! Bravo bro. Well done. Thank you

Amazing concise tutorial! Maybe the best I've seen on all of RU-vid. Thanks!

Love how to the point this is. No nonsense is right!

World needs more people like you, no babbling like a fool for 10 mins, just shows the job. Thanks

fabulous speaking voice,very confident and obviously a top shelf technician the best of the best.It's nice to have very intelligent auto technician,someone who knows what he is doing.Enjoyed the video and information!

Didn't see the need to take off the motor mount and jack it up, that 2 piece pully was a little tricky , thanks for the video.

Thank you brother. THIS is the video i was looking for. Not familiar with this car (yet) just needed to know some basics of what's where before i start crawling around under it. Last video started with the guy using an open end wrench to loosen the steering pump using another open end for a cheater bar. Again....thanks.

Just what I needed on my 2011 Accent today! Thanks. Subscribed

I've done a bunch of these on various Asian cars. A little trick I've learned if you don't have a torque wrench or don't have a way to hold the engine still while you torque the front pulley bolt is make a paint mark on the bolt and on the pulley before you take it off. Then you can VERY CAREFULLY put it back on with a cordless impact gun lining up the two marks. A little blue Loctite on the pulley bolt helps. I just got through doing my '99 Accents timing belt for the third time this way. Don't go crazy with the impact gun and you should be fine.

This helps immensely! You’re so informative thank you so so much!

Now I know why it so expensive to replace this belt. Great video.

Your video helped more than you know!! THANK YOU!!!!

Brilliant presentation. All the relevant information and the correct steps. Tips on sequence of events. “I’ll be back”

Excellent vid bro, straight 2 the point

Thanks dude! Made my life a breeze with this video.

good job keeping it brief and covering torques, timing mark alignment etc. smart to buy timing belt kit plus I'll probably replace water pump/ antifreeze (autozone about $60 each) at same time. since our belt broke I can start it after this install to see if we gotta also take the head off. fingers crossed. THANKS!

Great Video! Camera Work is awesome & information straight forward! Thank You.

Gr8 job!! You bust it out .I luv it!! I learned to wrench from oldskool flat-rate mech ! & yes rotate engine couple times 👌it checks for valve bind too! I learned the hard way !

Best video of this yet

Here, U dropped something Sir. 👑

Great video man quick and to the point with all the nessissary steps on video

Great video! To the point, all the specs, helpful hints. Not sure if I can tackle this by my self, but keeping this on my favorites list! Thank you!

This is a fantastic video! I am going to tackle all belts on my sons 2010 Hyundai Accent! This is exactly what I needed to see. Thanks so much!!

Great video! Incredibly helpful and concise.

Bro. I love you man lol. Straight to the point. I changed my timing belt using this video . only thing i learned is you dont need to get the motor mount off. The cover comes in 2 pieces. Also using the crank of the starter to take off the crankshaft bolt took me 5sec to get it out lol. Put it back in I went to autozone and bought a chain that had thos grip pliers on it 30$. Worked perfectly to hold the pulley while I tighten the bolt. Other than that it was all this video. Good job man I love this. Without using the starter to open the crankshaft bolt . I was trying it for 6 hours manual. Took me 5 second with the starter . but dont take my advice. Know what your doing before doing the starter trick. For anyone who wants to try that. #dangerous . Oh yeah it was a hyundai accent 2007

That's the way to a You Tube tutorial..... all the information straight down the line.

This was very helpful and to the point, Thank you!

Sick dude baller video right to it!!

Great overview. Tks so much

A quick tip on how to save a bit of time and frustration. When installing the two water pump pullies try putting a bit of super glue between ensuring the holes are lined up. It makes it easier to handle the two pullies in the tight space when trying to line up the 4 holes/bolts.

Thanks Man, helped me a lot.

good job nice video no b.s. straight to the point and very informative.

informative and straight on i will do mine change on my getz 02 next week, have been fixing cars on my own for 35 years but sometimes you want some advise and informative videos like this THANX.

Congrats brother. Outstanding video with no b.s. I'm assuming you're pushing 140+ IQ keep up the great work

Good video tho very accurate. Straight to the point. Thanks

Really helpful video. Very well done.

When tightening the water pump screws, gently raise the motor with the jack until the water motor is easily accessible, makes things easier

that was very good straight to the point,why no new water pump being so close i think

Perfect video.

Nice video brother

thanks for review helpful.

Excllent. Good work

F'in rad! Quick, but that's what pausing and backing up is for.

Nice vid my only question is how does one tighten the pulleys to spec without them rotating? Or does it not move at all when tightening? Thanks!

I just did mine. Before watching this I suggest if you have a spare 10 mm bolt to cut the head off and use it put the water pump pulley back together.

Looks good only question Once you are TDC and Crank and Exhaust Cam is set how do you Set the Intake Cam with the chain on the other end of Cam Gears

Well done! Thanks for taking the time to do this, It really helped! =) '02 Accent. 120K miles on timing belt and 180K on original clutch ((whew!)). This damn car better run for at least another 100K after all the new parts, clutch, belts and hoses I threw on her. =) Thanks again.

Thanks man

Great vid .Direct, to the point, nice tips, and great to include torque values as you go. Thanks so much. One question. As I dont have the owners manual with my second hand GETZ. What is the cam belt replacement frequency?. Thanks again

holy shit thanks you even mentioned the torque spec for the crank shaft

It looked like the water pump may have been leaking, as there was a lot of rust in the area and on the belt. Thanks.

Is the crank bolt the type you nearly need explosives to remove? Like a Honda or Toyota? I dread those things. Or will this come off with a typical 1/2" drive impact gun? I think mine does 450 ft lbs in reverse. Is there a tensioner adjustment, or do you just make it reasonably tight and leave it? I remember some 90's Hyundias that needed a weird long bolt tool to precisely tighten the tensioner, or it would jump every time. Great vid. Nice and to the the point. Well done.

Ya awesome video friend

I just got it changed and it is making a winding noise when I press the gas? No noise when at ideal. Could the timing be off? It seems to get up and go still just almost like the belt is too tight. There is no way to adjust the timing belt tensioner as it is spring loaded. Could he have placed the timing belt too tight, or that impossible due to the spring tensioner? I replaced the pulley and tensioner as well. Or could it be the other belts?

Since rhe motor mount does not go through the loop of the timing belt (like it did on the Mitsubishi 1.5 engines), there is no need to touch the mount. It is not seriously in the way of anything, so just leave it alone and save yourself a lot of work.

well done thank you...

Awesome video. Do you know if this is an interference engine or non-interference? I need to replace a timing belt that broke while driving.. Just wondering if we will have bent valves

so good

Thank you...

good video bro. great idea talking about the torque specs. too bad you cant have someone else film while you work.

great vid buddy. One guy has a vid on this and it's hours long! It's like watching paint dry. Is the jacking the engine up just to get the mount off (for clearance), or does it help with removing/lining things up? Thanks for replying

Thanks 🤗

What do you do if the timing belt tore , do you just do the same thing? Do you need to do any other steps?

Hey man, excellent video, is it even worth trying if the belt has broken or are the valves 100% for sure bent?

My 2011 Accent has a broken timing belt I think. I thought it was a coil going bad and one morning it wouldn't start. Tried to start it again the next day it fired for a split second and it sound like the belt fell off or broke completely. Should I take the head off and have a look first? Some people say interference some say non-interference? Thanks.

one thing i would do is either loosen or remove the spark plugs so rotating the engine to line up the timing marks is easier to do

I moved the crankshaft pulley off of the timing mark right before the installation of the new timing belt during timing belt repair. The question is how to put it back on its correct alignment? First, the camshaft is on its timing mark, just the crank is off. Should i rotate the crankshaft two rotation to line right back on the proper timing or one rotation is enough,or... ? Its a accent 2007 Thank you!

I have my Gates timing belt & pulley already ............ But thanx to tons of every jkind of information, I cant decide whats the best waterpump to get, Alos I heard the pullys & bearings with the green are Good & the ones without are not cvery good. ,.,, Can anyone plz reccommend a good waterpump & pull bearings??? sure would be nice if Gates put outa Timing belt,+3 belts_water pump+new pullys all in one kit, would make it so much easier*

On Amazon: *1.6L TIMING KIT: amzn.to/2AWKqP9 *1.6L TIMING KIT WITH PUMP: amzn.to/38HHjsB *CAM HOLDER: amzn.to/2XXzide *LISLE SPILL FREE FUNNEL KIT: amzn.to/32yr6nd *MECHANICS TOOL SET: amzn.to/2NctGIC

Question! If the belt breaks/fails (teeth break off causing the cams not to rotate, can pistons hit the valves if the engine is turned over with the starter. My sisters car, while driving it quit, she tried to restart several times. Great informative and to the point!!

How do you rotate the engine 2 turns? Awesome video.... Belt just arived, doing it this weekend.

Your tensioner trick only strips those threads on the end

Hey my mechanic said that a bracket broke and it caused the pulley to break. But he said that the guy that changed it before put the bracket in the wrong place, causing it to break. So I’m buying a new pulley and belt. Oh the car always had a little rattle on that side too he said it was related.

The spring tensioner bolt you say don't loosen while it's tension bc it can strip, yet we still have to tighten under tension

All said an done how long from start to finish minus recording? Just got my daughter the same car as her first car and waiting on new water pump and timing belt kit....great video will be on repeat a few times during install

I’ve replaced my timing belt with an aftermarket than my accent started acting weird with a po342 code. So I put an own timing belt made sure the marks line up 3 times and it runs decent but has a lack of power and still the same code! I’ve put a new cam sensor and it’s done nothing! What could I have screwed up?

earlier in the video you said Line up top cam pully then on the crankshaft pully theres a Notch & a T,line them up ...... But at 3:11 in the video theres no mention of a T & I see no T anywhere on the C/S pully. Instead theres just 2 marks 1 on the pully & one on the block. But no T

Does anyone know if the timing belt on a 2011 hyundai accent gs is invasive if it breaks?

When you double check your timing marks, does it matter if you rotate the engine twice or three times? Sorry for the stupid question.

I have a 2002 that I'm changing the belt on next week, it'll be the second one that I have done. Is there a common issue with the top end of the motor being kinda loud? I have been getting a lot of ticking lately. I was going to replace the chain between the cams to see if that helps. Didn't know if there might be a common issue. Thanks!

Great video Man love it fuck all the bullshit get in there and get it done thanks bro keep up the good work

lil spray clean and a cupla rags goes a long way

you should be given control of youtube. near Iowa? Want to hire you to do this job.

I rotated it counter clockwise. I think that’s where I screwed up. Check engine light is on now.. Does anyone have any tips on how to fix my mistake? Should I go back in and rotate clockwise? Would that fix anything? Thanks!

If you buy a new belt do you need a new tensioner too?

When ya did the timing belt, how many kms was on it?

Nice video but you do not have to pull the motor mount in this car as the cover comes out in 2 pieces