Great video! It's very informative and will use in the future. I plan on doing this to my 1997 Fzj80 in a few months. One question... Is there a list of new parts needed for a short block build? I've been slowly buying parts in prep reaction, such as wiring harness, injectors, water pump, blah. blah, blah. I've searched Ih8mud , but haven't found a list. I want to make sure I have all the parts on hand. Thanks!!!
I'm not aware of any lists, but the main points would probably be somewhere along the lines of: Pistons and rings (or just rings if you're reusing pistons) Rod bearings Main bearings with thrust washers Rods (if not reusing OEM) Freeze plugs Oil restrictor in top of block (can just reuse the original) Alignment dowels for the head Oil pump o rings Oil pickup tube gasket Rear main seal Timing cover o rings Oil squirters (if you suspect old ones are faulty) I'm probably missing a few things but that's the bulk of what you'd need. Obviously machine work would be needed, so I'd talk to your machine shop before buying pistons and rings.
The 1FZ isn't too bad! Really beginner friendly imo. Toyota made it pretty easy back then compared to what I'm used to (Land Rover, BMW, Subaru). It was a pretty hearty price, about $4300 shipped, but looking at it come together makes it so worth it.
Did you consider painting your new block before rebuilding? Or wish you'd done it now? I've read on the forums that sometimes these blocks come with subpar paint jobs and guys will strip them down and repaint. I've got a new block coming and I'm not sure it's worth it to strip off the factory paint and redo it unless it's really bad. Thoughts? Yours looks like it was in good shape, minus the exploding silica packet!
After a few months on it, it seems like it's holding up well. I'd say if you want to no doubt prevent any paint going away, you could rough it up and mask all the surfaces and throw some high temp on it. If you've got the time and space to do it, I'd say go for it!
@@motor.mausGarage That's what I ended up doing, but I probably could have left it as is. Rebuilding my 94 80 series and these videos have been super helpful to supplement with the FSM steps!
Have you considered rebuilding the transmission or at least replace the torque converter since its out already and it would suck to put it all back together then have something happen?
I have looked into it a little bit and ask myself that question every time I look at it, and from what I see it's kind of difficult to find parts for these transmissions, even the torque converter seems to be kind of difficult to get. From what I see with the fluid and how it was driving before I tore everything apart there's really no indication that it was on its way out. The fluid looked almost brand new and not brown at all, which is a really good sign. If it does end up giving up, it'll be on this channel no question. But I might have to look overseas to find what I need.
@@motor.mausGarage I replaced the motor in my 350k LX and ended up putting the 350k transmission back in. Donor motor (150k Southeast US) came with a trans but it had a lot of corrosion I didn't want to clean up. The A442F is not considered a normal point of failure and is a super robust transmission. 50k later I don't regret it and trans is just fine.
Like your videos keep up the good work I’m from Australia I’ve got 2 80 series Cruisers do know much about the automatic transmissions my auto sometimes goes into limp mode you I’ve had checked out by a specialist he tested the solenoids on and off the car and said they are working fine he said must be a electrical problem I changed the ecu still same problem
Thanks! I don't know a ton about these auto transmissions specifically, but if it is electrical I would take a look at the connectors from the engine harness that go back to the transmission. Mine were very brittle and would definitely let water in them, so might be worth checking out. If I start having issues with mine you'll be seeing it on here 😂
Is it wrong that im slightly aroused right now....? Seriously though, im very surprised there was no covering on the cylinders, and no cap or cover on the oil filter connection.... any amount of nonsense could have found its way in to the oil galleries. Oh, and the hole punched in the cardboard box by the free end of the crankshaft would have been a bit of a fret 😕
Believe it or not, a lot of engines show up at dealerships just like this, if not worse 😂. I've had a few $20,000 engines show up with broken or cracked heads at the dealership from shipping 😬.
@@motor.mausGarage What a lovely job mate, you do make it look easy! Have to say I'm jealous... I have an aging 80 series with the 1-HDT and I'm itching to tear it down for a full restoration - but the iron bas***d just keeps powering on. Without doubt they're bullet-proof units! We used to use the 100 series with 1-HZ diesels in the deserts of Africa and they were all up around 250k miles each and still powering on. Probably still there now! Keep up the good work 🙂
