Let's take the Losi Promoto and put every upgrade available on it! Will this turn it into the most capable upgraded Promoto RC ever? Let's find out! trealhobby.com...
Definitely a tank of a promoto 👍 Those CF wheels are so nice 🤩 If I ever get one of these I think the wheels would be my only upgrade. This bike is so complex! Im sure you learned alot by building it this way.
12:59 the amount of golden nuggets you drop in these videos is kind of insane. How else would one know to use dry lube on a servo saver? Edit 14:56 I never even thought about threadlocker dripping into bearings!!
That's definitely the most mods I've seen on one. You gotta at least give a ballpark on what this cost. Talbot put $900 in upgrades on his if i remember correctly and didn't go nearly as deep. How many rtr ones could you buy for this total amount? It looks great regardless. I've never wanted the Promoto but I've almost bought a RZR Rey a few times. I just wish it was bigger. I think a SBR 2.0 sized RZR Rey would be a lot of fun.
I haven’t done any research on batteries yet, I’ve had my bike since Christmas. The stock battery lasts like 3min on the sand 😮💨 but I love this thing it’s such a head turner
@@DoRC check out Earl M. He upgraded the power system on one. He used a BEC to restrict voltage to the gyro and then upgraded the drive motor & ESC. He was trying to hit 100 mph. If I remember correctly he made it up into the 70 plus mph
Bro!! What a PERFECT pro-moto build!! Holy moly brother… I can totally tell that your bike out handles the sh!t out of the stock PM. A cool running video, on the right terrain, would be awesome with that bike. Let me know if you’re ever selling it… I’ll buy it with no BS👍🏻
@@DoRC hey brother, I just got a chance to drive the pro-moto that my buddy has. As much as I want one of your AWESOME builds. I now don’t want to waste this opportunity to get one of your RC’s when I don’t like the pro-moto after driving it. I put 4 packs through it… I just don’t like it. So, I am going to wait till you build something awesome on four wheels that I fall in love with to bug you about buying it. Is that cool?
Good grief.!!! How much did that cost you.??? I mean, the stock ones aren't exactly cheap so that beauty must've set you back an arm, a leg & your danglies.!!! It's extremely impressive & I love seeing it, but I could never justify spending that kind of money on an RC.! Thank you for sharing.
Yeah I've had it both ways. Sometimes it's okay and sometimes it ends up causing enough flex to actually mess up the gears. In this case it seems fine.
I use a lot of alloy wheels on my touring cars & you'll find it adheres well enough, but not as well as plastic rims. It won't stay glued as long, you'll really need to get into the habit of checking your glue bead regularly & redoing it from time to time.!
I would have left the inner piece off as well instead of ripping back apart. Then it woukd bug me for 2 weeks before I take it completely back apart and put it on in the end. Lol hopefully you're at terms with your decision. Awesome build man. I'm so close to ordering one. Just got the losi db pro after the dbxl and really happy with the losi quality and build.
gluing on aluminum usuallly gives way which is why most aluminum wheels are beadlocks but in this case seems to work just fine. overall this bike build looks great I wonder if they will sell aftermarket panels that you can paint as if this entire bike would look cool all black.
You'd be surprised about c rating. It's pretty much always a lie and there really is no such thing as a 100 c battery. I recommend just going with a good quality brand such as SMC. You're going to get the best performance out of something like that even if the label doesn't have the highest c rating.
I tried all aluminum with my Promoto a big mistake; bike too heavy, slow, started breaking parts. I put it back to stock and added a Reefs 99 micro servo for better brakes. It does stoppies on a fly.
The brake caliper on the wrong side gave me the idea of running dual front calipers but you'd have to run both cables on the same servo. I've seen it done on custom mountain bikes
If you want to test an alternative to your nocry driver, Amazon basics USBC screwdriver it has an electronic clutch and I’ve found it to be soft enough for many plastics, but it’s also a better handle for manual driving the last mm with.
@@DoRC well on max torque it removed the motor mount screws on my xo-1 as if they weren’t even tight, and I know I had those locked down well. The Xmaxx and xrt haven’t needed any work since I got it, but based on what I have done with it I highly doubt there’s a single screw on it that this won’t remove. Pretty sure I also used it on an orange thread locked grub screw somewhere as well.
@@DoRC I considered it to be an upgrade from The $125 Dewalt I used to have. Neither ran out of torque but the gyro actuator was just stupidly annoying in a lot of places
That did not look fun to drive on that terrain. It would have been good to take make a springs/oil adjustment to see if that's the problem, or if there's another issue. I'm left not knowing if the problem is with settings, Losi, or all the aftermerket parts.
It actually was pretty fun. I think the terrain just was too much for the bike. I'm not sure you would be able to tune it to be able to handle that smoothly.
Do you know if i could set this bike up to work with my flysky nb4 plus transmitter?that question has been the only thing stopping me from buying one of these.
Maybe. The receiver does use an internal gyro for stability I honestly don't know if the gyro on another receiver would work or not. Everything else would work though.
The number of coils in a spring can be used to compare stiffness if using the same brand of springs from a manufacturer that only uses one spring material to make all of their springs. This ignores things like progressive vs linear and dead coils that merely affect ride height. 6 drumsticks from KFC is a lot more chicken than 10 McNuggets from McDonalds but is a lot less chicken than 5 chicken breasts from KFC.
Correct. If you watch the video you'll see that before I start counting coils I measure the diameter of the wire and ensure that the wire is the same diameter on all of the springs I'm comparing.
Most upgraded 🤣. The glue needed on alloy to rubber is Loctite 480. The full size AGFrc is a perfect fit the one you had needs some spacers and two of the slots extending slightly. No damping fluid in the headstock. There are upgraded drive sprockets but Vitavon not Treal so I guess you ignored them as not the sponsor. The silver and black springs are the same weight one is wound left the other right so twisting cancels itself out the center part rotates with travel.
According to the MDS loctite 480 is CA glue with rubber in it. Might be more appropriate for this particular application but standard CA glue is rated for gluing rubber to aluminum. That's cool. I didn't have the full size AGFRC servo so wasn't really something I could test during the build. I'm sure there are plenty of servos That fit though. I did a quick search before the build and didn't see any sprockets but sometimes the vitavon stuff can be difficult to find The Black springs have a smaller wire diameter than the silver ones so at least by my measurements they are not as stiff. It may be a small enough difference is to not matter but at least again by my measurements there is a difference. Thanks for watching :-)
what is the diameter and the length of the Swing Arm Layshaft, the shaft that doubles as the linkage for the swing arm and as the final output shaft of the transmission? It looks like a 5mm shaft on it, but i am only speculating. I'm working on converting a large scale New Bright 4 wheeler, and i want to move it to a solid rear axle and a chain drive. also, what is the distance between the center of that shaft and the center of the rear wheel axle? I'm curious if the chain for the stock or the 30mm extended swing arm will be long enough for me to use on my project.
@@DoRC the sprockets and chain will work perfectly for me on my conversion. Now I need to buy some parts and start designing some others. Thanks again for that information.
I'd have to measure it but I suspect that the wheels actually aren't any lighter. The stock ones are plastic and these are aluminum and carbon fiber so it's probably pretty similar.
16:42 The fork is like that? I mean at the steering column, it looks like you built it the wrong way no ? On a real bike the two “T” plates (holding the fork tubes) are not mounted like that but the other way, the fork tubes must be in front of the steering column, not behind… (Hope my English is understandable 😭)
Technical jargon - springs absorb shocks. The thing with the oil and pistons dampen the oscillations of the spring. This is why certain people correctly refer to them as dampeners instead of shock absorbers. Don't get me started on the differences between struts and "shocks." They are different things!! Hinit - the Losi has front struts while the rear (and tiny 3rd front) "shock" is merely a dampener.
It's kind of hard to drive it fast in rough terrain but it is capable of going quite a bit more quickly than you saw in the video. According to the manual the chain should be as tight as you can get it without binding. My chains actually a little bit looser than that.
Looks cool but when some Tamiya quality rallye rc car in 1/10 and full tuning, anything like this in plans? Tamiya is picky and their plastics can cut skin...and their shocks are a joke...
@@Rckid28 true but I've done dozens of builds over the years and it's usually pretty easy to tell Right away if something is overweight. Again it's only 15% so it's not a massive increase.
You injection molded the plastic and machined the metal to fabricate an RC moto from your own design? Your RC "from scratch" needs to be entered into competitions. Are there RC car competition for scratch builders like in the RC plane industry (look up Top Gun competition) where people build planes of their own design by taking or using pictures of full sized planes or plans?
