The bearings need ten thousandths play, the best way to adjust that is to bolt the wheels on. Then spin the wheele and tighten the bearing nut until the wheel won't spin, then back the nut off as you spin the wheel. Put one hand on the top of the wheel and one on the bottom move back and forth spinning the wheel adjusting the nut as you go. When you get the play to where if you tighten you feel no play,and you loosen and feel aliitle play you got it right. I've been doing this for 61 years. This will save you time and money.
Awesome job mate. One tip is that you can Fill up any Tank from the bottom via the hose connection or IBC/Cam Lock. This makes filling up easier and prevents the hose falling out of the top when unsupervised 👍
Another great video. Thanks for putting it together. Have you driven around with the tote completely full? Is it worth doing the leaf spring version, or is this version good enough?
Cheers, yep I regularly fill it up and tow it behind the quad. You can tell it's a bit bumpier with no springs but not too bad. Tyre pressure and sidewall height could help with this also. I think I won't bother with springs in the future builds unless it is to be road licensed.
Hi! I've followed both videos and am extremely impressed. i have a few questions as I want to copy your trailers. Is there a reason for mounting the pumps at 90 degrees to ibc valve? Do you get the tyres and rims prior to axle ?
Thanks mate, when mounting the engine I consider a few things... Will it be easy to pull start? Will it be easy to change the oil etc? What is the easiest way of plumbing everything in? and also which way is the exhaust facing? Plenty of ways to skin a cat so do whatever works for you mate. Yes, get the wheels before you order the axle as the length will change depending on offset of wheels. You can obviously go a bit wider on the axle and cover most bases but for me personally I want them to be as narrow as possible. The shorter the distance from the spring or chassis to the hub the stronger it is!
