@@ChopsGarage one day re spray bud, had that swift since 2019.ive cleared about a dozen, plenty of work, little profit or a loss, blew 700 on a mokka, a grand on a corsa, another grand on a merc, easy done.
People just assume every car is the same regardless of brand, model, engine size, petrol or diesel and if their new car doesn't behave the same, it's broken.
The last vehicle I bought was a manual isuzu d max, on taking a test drive selection of reverse gear seemed extremely difficult to the point I suspected a potential issue. In the end, I bought the vehicle being in all other respects ok and decided to drive it for a week. Three years later, there is no issue with the gearbox it was simply me not used to the truck. If you drive another vehicle for a long time, you get used to it, and if like me your other vehicle is an auto it compounds things more. I am certain that given a few weeks, the guy would get used to the car.
You’re a good man James sorting out these issues. Feel bad for traders losing money because customers have hidden or undisclosed faults. Anyhow makes for great content. Keep up the great work
I rented a car in Mijas and after a few days the exhaust blew. It was a small independent rental company with very keen prices. They picked the car up from our B&B and fixed it right away. I suspect hire cars in these places get thrashed
I'd not be worrying, or knocking loads off for a cam belt bud, they're made of kevlar mix these days and hardly ever go, motorcycles use them in place of a chain, maybe to transmit 100 bhp (!) it's usually the water pump or a tentioner that goes and makes the belt jump, have a good listen in the belt area, maybe pull back the belt cover and have a look, if it's OK your good to go, on say old cortinas, yes a rubber belt would go, but it's very rare these days, doing a new belt or reducing the price over say 50 cars a year is like 25k (!)
Kuga is such a common issue. Most people get the wrong switch and it doesn’t fix the issue 😂. Go to main dealer for the switches and you’ll fix the issue. Big clue the switches are no where near £500 like the discount
@@ChopsGarage yes. I was there before they built playa Blanco. The roads were in but not building. I loved it. Great fish restaurant on the quais with a lovely waitress. She was cunning. Told us the British always tip the best and the Germans the worse 🤣🤣
Are you really sure you would want to get involved in putting a new Clutch into that car only for them to abuse it yet again and it would no doubt be your fault. You are only postponing the inevitable, give him his money back, smile and wave him a fond farewell.
In regards to the clutch guy. I'd just be honest. Say Moors have tested driven it and checked the clutch and found no issues. You've test driven and found no issues. The only time you were able to make it do what he's complaining about is engaging the clutch too quickly. It's a new car (to him) and it'll take some getting used to as any car would. I'd probably advise adjusting the seat again until he can comfortably depress the clutch fully. Or offer to refund him for the car. Don't waste money putting a new clutch in cause he'll come back with the same issue and you've wasted money on a clutch.
Without being impolite to the chap if the car doesn't fit his driving position he should look at getting something else. Someone else will get a cracking i20. Winners all round.
My first try of owatrol, interesting product, much better than other back to black stuff, it's a bit like auto gym stuff, hard work but good, spread it on, wait, wipe it off, but you don't wipe you WIPE, it's different,
Sharp and low clutch points to a bad pressure plate bud, but obviously you know what it's like having driven it, sold a i10 to and old lady a few mths ago, 1 owner, 19k,clutch like new, when she drove off she was slipping it like mad, I thought she'll be back, sure enough she'd cooked the clutch in a few weeks. Offering a full new clutch for 150 is great of you, he wants to take it up as it future proofs the car, at auction I always check the clutch several times as tbh half the cars in there have bad clutches, at the auction you need to jump in and try everything you can, it's no good waiting in the ring just bidding, glad you've knocked your warranty down to a mth on cheapies, next stop is "no mate it's sold as seen" ha, ha.
@@ChopsGarage might be a lock nut on push rod going into master cylinder, pedal end, I've sometimes cut some of the carpet or pedal stop just to get a bit more travel. I've just had a full clutch and slave in a punto, it's still taking full pedal to clear, I'm going to have to do something like that to sort it. I've actually taken pedals off, cut them, re welded it, to get a bit more, don't tell anyone tho bud (!)
@@ChopsGarage I've also taken pedal off, welded up hole and re drilled one a bit in front, just to give it a bit extra, you still need some free play tho or release bearing will be spinning all the time.
@@ChopsGarage was hearing your focus problems bud (Sunday morning!) he can't actually reject in unless you fail (once only) to fix it, I'd have got it in and chucked a new wheel sensor St away, only like 18 quid, up on your ramp, wheel, done in half a hour, all the other stuff seemed a bit spurious tbh, block testing is going to alarm him I'd have thought, bit of a waste of time checking battery as faults don't really show till it's been stood say overnight, all it needs then is to show 12.7 volts, less means battery is u, s, or there's a drain.
Not saying this is the case but I understand that modern cars with those terrible duel mass flywheels are programmed to go jumpy if revs are too low in high gear to make drivers change down gear… apparently the low rev torque is what knackers those flywheel clockwork spring thing… my diesel Mokka was like that …. 🤔