I dont care how fast it gets done. I care how well it is done. I am very slow but very precise. Never hurry anything and never compromise quality. Been in the game for 28 years. If you are good and do it right then you will never have to worry.
@@RossLemon lol not if it take you too long bud. If I can get my jobs done faster, I’m worth more and hour and I have to work less. Work 70 hrs if you wanna bud I’ll pull the same amount working 40 and fast.
No one runs Flex in a basement here in Pennsylvania we run rectangular sheetmetal ductwork with round sheetmetal supply and return pipes. Flex only belongs in un-coditioned spaces, attic, crawl, etc.. We have supply and return ducts in each room "No returns in kitchen, baths" We perform our own load calc and install equipment and materials using our own employees. Just keep promoting products and entertain the homeowners!
Just poured my concrete pad today. Didn’t want to put extra holes in my steel building and the 4 ton condenser case, and I think it would of looked like crap.
@7:30 I get the time of installation thing... But why not pour a level pad of concrete that a 12"+ stand could be bolted ? auger a couple 6"x48"holes with rebar to fill with cement. condensoer off the ground for winter snow/leaves, ect... No all thread to the house because its secured to the ground.
Not exactly the way we do ductwork in the Midwest & up north. We use rectangular ductwork with return drops (more head room and doesn’t take up as much room in the basement).Your insulation is outstanding, definitely will need it in that crawlspace. I’m assuming you guys use a lot of round duct, because the majority of your work in Tennessee is probably in attics (not many basements).
I’m in NY and we use a combo of both round duct for tight attics and square duct for basements and taller attics. I did install a unit like this and I did square ducts with round take off ran the main line down the left side of the house and flexed the rest in the joists. My return I was able to build a box run multiple returns in the wall. Kept everything into one corner so the client had more room for storage. Every job is different and it all depends on the load cal. It also helps if the whole house is open to studs. Very clean install tho otherwise I have to say tho I never installed a bypass on the return can you do a video explaining why it’s there the benefits and such! That would be good to know and perhaps maybe I can incorporate it on my future installs! Thanks!
@@Anthony-nr1nd bypass is used on multizone system. When you close 2 zones and only one zone is open there is higher esp, in order to relieve it bypass is installed.
@@williamserver4332 , Pennsylvania, where the steel and metal legacy started👍. We do the same thing in Missouri. In the Saint Louis Metropolitan area, we are also required to install Air returns in every room when possible (bathrooms and kitchens are exempt for obvious reasons).
I would definitely not connect the condenser to the house, we did that and even with rubber feet between the strap and house it still coupled a lot of noise into the building. We ended up pounding 4 feet of half inch all thread into the ground through each foot and that seemed to make it really solid
Just a idea, here in ontario we use brackets on every install from ductless to heatpump units, tapcon into concrete or just hang on side of house and it elevates it from snow or flooding, plus looks alot cleaner.
Not sure if you've already encountered this but I replaced a Daikin air handler circuit board recently and found out the hard way you have to order a capacity adaptor separately. Tech support never mentioned it when they told me to replace the board.
Have your electrical contractor return. At 11:49 you should the wall outlet for the Line set but the conduit for the electrical is drill downwards so any water will track down the outside as I cannot view any sealant.
That’s always how it goes, running around for something additional or something takes longer but that’s how you can tell that you are doing a good job.
Hey brother, watchin your videos from out here is Melbourne Australia, love your content! Been running my own hvac business here for over 5 years now and your channel has been a great inspiration
6"x6" forms, a little AB in the middle to 3 1/2" ,pour concrete and set anchors for the unit. This will raise you off the grade for water and provide a solid foundation for the tall condensing unit.
Not to be rude, but if that were my basement I would be pretty disappointed. The round pipe & flex are taking up way too much of the ceiling space. Like others mentioned; square duct is the way to go for a basement like that. I'm guessing you are not allowed to pan bays for your returns. That would help simplify some of the ducts crossing over each other. Anyway, I'm kind of shocked by this install. I knew something was up when I saw the bags of flex piled up outside. May god have mercy on your soul. (just kidding about that part)
Love Zac's videos. Great content and he knows his stuff! But I agree with your comment from a design standpoint that basement is huge and would be nice finished. From my experience what I would have done on this one is use rectangular duct around the outside perimeter of the basement ceiling then shoot round duct runs between the floor joices to reach the walls in the middle areas of the upper floor. This way when the basement is finished and the ceiling is drywalled it has a nice uniform bulkhead around the perimeter walls also when the framing in the basement is finished it's easy to cut a ceiling register in. But as anything goes all these things take a lot of planning and money and maybe the homeowner opted for a certain design plan. Just my two cents. Keep up the great content Zac! I'd love to see some pool heater install videos if ya get any of those jobs.
Very nice stuff. Love the through wall lineset. Here on Miami Beach a lot of times have used preformed concrete 4" slab and aluminum rails 18", 2'ft, etc above flood to meet code.
To stabilize I use 2 pieces of strut with angle brackets to lag into the house if the siding permits then on the top of unit I use 2 3/8 stainless sheet metal screws per side with the stainless washers that have the rubber on the bottom and it's very solid. Not many other options. Just obviously check your clearance inside but there's plenty of room to screw into just stay away from top of your coil,the rest is wide open
It's all good, Good job Zack and Trevor, I personally would have mixed up cement, made a slab out of concrete, and raised it as high as needed, and use concrete anchors to hold it down on the slab, and maybe use uni strut to hold the top, good job anyway, keep it going.
Get that water heater that is there OUT NOW!!!. I had the same one that had a relay failure and caught on fire. Yes the electric water heater caught fire because one of the relays did something and caused that plastic control box on top to catch fire because it is made out of plastic.
Should have asked a customer if it floods there or just get in a habit of creating min of 6" for every job you do. Most places if shows and rains and people use leaf blowers and snow plowers. I live in SC and raised my to 12" when so I can blow leaves under it with ease. Just a tip!
looks super professional , great job .. love the details even on the outlet of the pipes. let me tell you ppl down here in south florida lack a lot on this worksmanship.... im always running onto hacked jobs
Do you guys have preformed concrete pads where you are? We're not allowed to use plastic at all here... That waffle pattern sink right in the dirt anyway..
@@Paulie1232 sure, but clearly he's not going that route... Just wondering why use a flimsy plastic pad then go through all that mounting to the house bull shit when you can get a preformed concrete pad and have it anchored down Edit: Also, how does poured concrete last longer than preformed concrete? I'm on board with arguments for it being more secure, but lasting longer?
Don't know if unit is straight cool or a heatpump. If it's a heat pump you need to consider snow level in winter if you get snow a lot which in that case the outdoor unit should be raised off the ground for better drainage
I love how you are concerned about the condensation from the ducts, meanwhile, a waterfall is coming down that basement window. LOL. Nice video! How is that GREE? What is the GREE rebranded to in other countries? For instance, ACiQ is rebranded to Carrier, from what I've heard.
I do the same exact method on the high double fan units. I use stainless all thread with mounting feet to attach to home. They are very tall and you never know what could happen.
awesome job sir!! but ive ran into a couple of calls where the homeowner complained about black dust shooting through the vents and clogging filters and it was due to old internally insulated plenums coming apart not my go too but badass install sir 🔥🔥🔥🔥💯💯💯💯💯💯
What if you add rocks to the ground and make concrete on top of it and have the condenser sit on top of concrete? Might look nicer and more solid foundation?
Have you had any issues out of the air handler blower just stopping, causing the outdoor to go out on high head? We’ve installed 2 of these Gree flexx and had this issue out of both. Spoke with tech support. Static pressure is in the appropriate range. Tech support says we are not the only ones experiencing this issue.
Same here, (I'm a license HVAC/R contractor and electrical engineer) we installed many Flexx36 (B revision) with no issues, just having issue with the Flexx48/60 (B rev), there is a bulletin published Nov 22, 2022 concerning the motor shutting down if the voltage is not in range 187 volts to 253 volts for products MFG Prior to May 2022, the voltage issue has been has been addressed on products manufactured after that date. I don't thing the voltage is my issue (customer voltage @ 246VAC RMS) and we live in a big city. In my opinion, the problem could be the overheating of the motor due to a hot evap. coil, there is a thermistor on the A coil that sense the temperature and report it to the control board. It was mid Dec 2022, outdoor temp was 20F, Discharge line was 163F (!!!), liquide line was 100F (TSP was 0.30wc). What I did is increase the blower speed from 2 to 5 (TSP measured @ 0.38), on the outdoor unit (5Ton), change the dip switches to 4T and set the other dip switch to ECO mode. Started the system and monitored the discharge line, reaching max 156F. As of today (Jan 16 2023), the problem did not reappear. NB: Unfortunately the air handler does not keep errors in memory and shows only the current status (in my case, it was the middle LED blinking=>motor stopped). Will update
This area floods a little bit. How about getting all that information before you start the job? These are questions to ask. Also Mr. and Mrs. Customer, do you prefer this cheap, hollow, plastic pad instead of my recommended solid concrete pad?
It probably says in the manual that the unit needs to be mounted off the ground, that what it says for my pioneer a/c. Of course the actual blocks are not available, backorder I guess. So I'm gonna have to use some 4x4 ground contact rated wood instead. Idk what else I can do.
New to all this but can you touch on the bypass that you hope to never use….really curious about this price of equipment and unfamiliar with it’s use. Thanks!
Nice work I do love your work Always nice and clean I hate uv protection comes in those kit But Northeastern Supply has line set with uv insulation they are nice I used them with Mitsubishi products.
@@sprockkets you consider all the flex, line set, whip, disconnect, wires for heat strips, heat strips, plenums, ect…. Adds up. Then labor on top of that.
If new install? Couldn't tell you. If I had no ducts I would do ductless - dampers are shit. And while I know this guy does good work, he should have at least watched Gree's video on this system, at bare minimum. Heck they officially post them on RU-vid, and the former guy from new jersey is hilarious.
@@brnmcc01 Looks like they have an open canvas to run duct work until they hit the basement partitions. Just looks like a half fast budget scenario going on. Not my house, nor reputation, so no worries.
I've actually never heard of gree we install strictly mitsu or Lennox for splits. Generally we use the metal wall brackets to hang the unit off side of house for these mini split type condensers but for these giant units we pour a pad and use strut to build a stand. I don't like the flimsy Mitsubishi stands they are awful and look ugly. You can also build your wall mount out of strut as well but we found some solid ones at my local supply house if I think of the brand I'll repost I can't remember it's been a while, not many people can afford these systems anymore
Gree Flexx systems are awesome.Ive installed 2 to 5 ton sizes both airhandler side and condenser side.Ive youve got a good plan for the flare fittings its pretty much cake.
You could have used a quick sling stand. They are super rugged and wouldn’t have had to worry about securing the top. They are a little pricey but make all of the difference in that situation.
We have just installed one in New Zealand Gree GUD160 Ducted Heat Pump System and the unit is super noisey! Does anyone have any ideas how to solve. It’s mounted on concrete and about 30cm away from the house. The noise seems to be created from the airflow between the house and the back of the unit? Any help would be appreciated as we are at our wits end how to solve it without having to move the whole unit.
Idk how the they get away with all this flex up here in New England we can’t have more than 11ft of flex on a run. Everything is hard pipe (round or rec depending) and then then taps to the registers
Sorry, I would have the pad at least 6 inch above the soil level, just due to the elements. (rain/snow). LOL, if it was in my neighborhood, then it should be mounted on the side of the wall about 3 ft up due to floods. Hmm, I'm also thinking that dogs will tear up your free-floating external copper piping just since it looks like an exposed play toy. (Especially if they have any Labrador puppies then you can say goodbye. lol) Thanks for you content.
Erm. Love your commitment. But use tin in basements with exposed joists my guy. It will work what you did. But how can they finish that basement if they want to? Flex is for attics and spaces which will be closed up immediately. Here in Canada that would fail inspection. But it works. Just not here. And I'm probably sure this was the budget. Work with what your budget is I guess.
I watch a couple of HVAC channels, and the Gree equipment seems to be the darling of the moment with lots of folks doing first-time installs of it. I guess because it's new, it's something different and interesting. But without fail, I find lots of comments like yours describing real-life track records on the gear that aren't too good. Evidentially, the equipment is a bear to work on because the internal layout is pretty bad. I'm old school - I like to go with established names that have track records to look at and that are still building good gear. I'm also not interested in chasing the newest tech or highest performance. With that comes high up-front costs and high replacement parts costs that can make the break-even point on energy savings too far out into the future.
Hey looks good if the condenser is above the air handler do you have to put inverted traps in the line set? I know most Manufactures want that and some leave it in the gray area! Love the packout van am working on mine too good luck buddy keep up the good work . Have you seen the sling condenser stands for the ground I would use that .
I believe only if the condenser is more than 30 feet (not sure exact distance) above the furnace/air handler it needs a trap. Where I'm at in the Midwest 95% of units are set up like this video without a trap.
@@aaronburke2469 I never seen Minimum distance above all I’ve seen if the condenser is above the air handler they need to be trapped check out the condenser install manual for this condenser pretty sure it’s there . I have seen on blue prints on Commercial jobs that are engineered that they were multiple traps if it’s vertically more than 50 feet let’s say they want multiple traps going down On a Multi story building it all depends on what the manufacturer or engineer wants.
That eflex guard stuff is code required here and it sucks compared to doing a good tape job with the uv pvc tape....the eflex just always looks hacked up using all the transition pieces on bends and zip ties.the titan flashing is good though no complaints but its the only portion of the kit that isn't code required. All my local guys are convinced whoever started that company has a friend in or county code department.
That basement is damp, and probably not conditioned or only partially conditioned space. High humidity climate as well probably. If this house was in the desert southwest that has single digit humidity, and dew points under 32 degrees, there is no condensation to worry about. Southeast part of the country everything sweats...including the installers!
Yeah, I have to agree with some of the other commenters. I’m in the North East and that would have been a rectangular trunk line. I am usually impressed with your work. I love the Airex kit for Lindsey penetrations. But that flex duct was not aesthetically pleasing. What’s up with that brand of unit? Never heard of it before. Inverter ?
Seems people here never heard of Gree. Their tagline is 1 in 3 is Gree, because they are in Asian markets. They claim to be the biggest ductless brand.
Awesome job and I always enjoy your videos. Everyone does things differently. Bottom line is that it works properly and the customer is happy! I’d love for you to see how we do duct work in Maryland. It’s comparable to how neat you do your piping. But that duct work I would not be happy with as an installer or homeowner.
Looks good Zach! Do you prefer fieldpiece over testo? I’m looking to buy some digital gauges with vacc probes just wondering your thoughts Also I’m from Memphis and just recently moved to Australia( my wife’s from here) so I work on lots of mini splits your tech videos are much appreciated thanks man
I came across your comment and thought I would share my thoughts. I’ve used Testo for almost 10 years, I have the 550 manifold and the smart probes. The 550 just started leaking on the high side valve unfortunately, so I bought a fIeldpiece SMAN 480 which has the micron gauge built in. I just used it for the first time this week and it’s far better than the testo in my opinion. The app for it is better since there is a whole line up of tools you can use within the same app and generate a pdf of all your readings, data logging is easy because it has a built in flash drive and you can directly connect to your computer and retrieve the logs. I’m happy with it. It’s expensive but worth it. The testo smart probes are handy for just checking operations. You could use a T fitting on the suction to add gas if you need to top off a unit. But fIeldpiece also make their own smart probes. I hope this helps.
@@walla_walla5959 thanks for your input I was recently at the supply house and they tested testo fieldpiece and another digital gauge and all vacc reading were different which I thought was interesting so I wouldn’t use the built in micron gauge anyway but I’ll dig further into the fieldpiece thanks for sharing
@@joelvanniekerk4006 that is interesting. I’ll try that myself, I’ll connect my yellow jacket micron gauge to the fIeldpiece and pull a vacuum on the manifold and see if they read the same. If I remember to, I’ll let you know the results.
Recently a distributor of that Gree model you are installing has recently started selling these here in Az that we do business with. Would you recommend these units? I’ve considered installing one at my house
@@brooksparadis2230 tell me, what makes it junk? It’s got a 10 yr warranty across the board, we’re doing a too notch install. You think the equipment just gonna give up?
@@mrpatter19888 gree is one of the loudest heat pumps(outdoor unit), cheap parts, horrible to work on cuz of the outdoor control board location, warranty support is awful etc... I could go on
