Here in FL the inspector would never pass that install without securing the outside units to the pad. Yea, we have hurricanes. :) Too bad there was no way to bring the line set down through the walls vs along the side of the house. We put in one of those Gree Flexx systems to replace a Carrier builder spec single stage unit for our second floor that just never seemed to hold the temp. (Brand new house, after 5 years hating it, and too many repairs (needed new coil once I was done) The gree works great. I was concerned but 2 years in now 0 problems. Having a non-communicating but fully variable system is excellent. I think more manufacturers should do it that way. I think Bosh is like that too.
Nice install, the customer will be comfortable for their first time since living there. I’ve installed zoned systems that worked perfectly, but the labor and materials always made the one up and one down systems better for everyone.
Lots of good tips in the vid! always best to prime wood before painting. Wouldn’t recommend plywood for a cover. A steel plate, with hasps, or another type of lock would be more secure, and last a lifetime.
I’ve used a 5 gallon bucket with holes drilled into it and then filled with gravel but that 4” corrugated perforated pipe is a good idea. Been installing for years like seeing tradesmen who take pride in their work.
I really like how you always make your systems Neat and Prim.... a landscape canvass if you will.... I have a very old rural home with a 4 ton Rheem HVAC, the duct work is for crap, but to rework this house, would exceed my SSA check in a hurry... oh, it uses Natural Gas for heat.... that is cost efficient at least.
Nice upgrade! I would be real happy being the owner of that setup. Clean, practical and efficient. Rarely have I seen a zone damper system work well. The communicating systems are the only ones that seem to work only if the design is absolutely perfect. Still inefficient at low loads though.👍🏼
Nice install! Are you sure the indoor coil is precharged with 410a or is it nitrogen? I install a lot of these here in Canada (Tosot brand, which is Greer). next time you do one of these, crack the indoor coil service valves, you’ll find that it’s nitrogen in there. At least it always has been for me. Wanted to let you know as that might screw you a bit if you were to have a huge nitrogen bubble in your heatpump system.
@@JordieG8 baker dist in our area started selling these in the zoom meeting we had with the big wigs explained this, the outside unit is pre charged for 25ft ,inside is charged with enough to get the 31 or two ft , so far so good I've got a few out
Good video ! One Upstairs unit & one downstairs unit is Allways a Great way to go as Far as Comfort & energy savings goes as upstairs sometimes might not even be occupied. Only thing I don’t like about this system is that the Air handler for the 1st floor is sitting on the Dirt & After the First Rain ☔️ Floods under the House that units going to be Full of Mold in 3-6 months. a Better Solution Would have been to put the Air Handler in the House in a Closet & Make the unit a Down Flow Airhandler putting a plenum box under the closet & attach ducts keeping everything out of the Water & Dirt under the house. Bonus: Air handler is more easily serviced also. Good video ! & it’s better than it was before comfort wise but Health wise the ducts were out of the dirt & Rain water under the house. I HATE PUTTING UNITS UNDER A HOUSE ! They ALLWAYS GET FULL OF MOLD ! Your a Smart Guy , Try to Find a Better Solution , if possible. I Would Go back to this Job and Dig out under that unit 6” & Put it on Bricks & iso pads or use Hanger strap to secure it to the Joists under the house putting an iso pad between the joists & unit for sound isolation. Fill the 6” Hole under the Unit with Rocks for drainage. That Should Keep the Water out of that unit, Give that unit a chance at Survival in the Rains & the Occupants “ Mold Free “ Air.
Fantastic upgrade! Very clean work. Only thing I don't understand is why didn't you keep the downstairs on a package unit? Having the air handler under the house just seems like a lot of work
Who knows, but most likely it was a 5 ton package ( since it was serving the whole house ) & Having 5 tons just serving the downstairs would probably be unacceptable - 2,000 Cfm for just the downstairs is going to be noisy supply grills, unit short cycling, more expensive electrical bills. Who knows , but these are just some of the reasons it would not work.
Love the heat pumps. I was kind boggled at the solution you pulled out - I hope it was very old, and not done int he last few years. That WAS a horrible HVAC design. You must live in a climate with no snow. That "door" would never pass muster anywhere there is snow. Even if that's marine grade plywood, those edges need more sealing that that in a northern climate. I'm impressed that you did the cement work and sealed the building yourself. A rare level of service, these days.
Nice installs once again !!!! Very neat ….craftsmanship at its finest . Your apprentice is getting top notch in the field training ! P.S . Your work truck with the tool set up is off the charts !!! 👍
I honestly love ❤how you treat you colleagues and helps ,thank you for this amazing video and keep up the great work .ps I hope to become a hvac tech sooner 😊
Maybe it's a dumb question but why not put a new package unit and ductwork for the downstairs? I'm with you on the 2nd floor ....good work my friend keep on on keeping on
Maybe the Asians do not make unitary systems? That three ton heat pump condenser looks a heck of a lot more complex than a domestic unit. I presume that is how they reach their efficiency levels.
I stopped trusting HVAC and I just do it all my self for my self including having gotten my EPA license. Its hard to find people like you so I gave up and gave in and just learned all this stuff my self. Just installed my own Pioneer 2 ton mini split - properly - I have all the necessary tools and I use only Fieldpiece and Yellowjacket mostly just like the pros. I have 3 more r22 ACs on my home that are about to die any month or year now. I am going to replace them all with inverter based split systems and do it all my self. I can't afford $40,000 to replace all my units when I can do all of it myself for like 10k. Sure I give up some extra warranty period but I can do all the work so warranty is good for only parts anyway for someone like me.
I hear you. Where I am, Chicago, everything is hack work fast in and out. I have som many nightmare stories I could write a book. I spent $1200 bucks on tools - and countless hours watching RU-vid lol. Acsevicetech is like an online school. This guy does nice work too. Obvious pride in his work.
I wish there was someone in North Texas like you that I could trust to do a professional job. The guys that did my new house were morons and I have had to either fix or replace most of what they did. I still have a leak that I cannot find on one of my systems.
At 5 degrees, would it not be inefficient for it to run in heat pump mode due to the lack of ambient heat? Seems like it wouldn't hurt to have the electric heater kicking in at a higher temp, but systems have come a long way.
Nope. Modern inverter heat pumps still archive ~180% efficiency/1.8 C.O.P just above the minimal operating temperature. Some of them have reduced capacity in the -4°F/-20°C temp ranges, but that's it. Most american heat pump brands just ignored all innovation beyond the 1980s and shipped the same product because it's cheap ;) There are heatpumps that can operate down to -22°f/-30°C.
@@OGBunney But with it defrosting, isn’t it good practice to keep them up in case it freezes or the reverse valve fails? Plus don’t units needs to drain? I’m sure it gets to 32 in those parts? Just curious, not bashing on anyone.
Putting air handler in crawl space seems like it would be harder to service. Check float, make any adjustments to blower fan. I have the rebadged version of these units in mr cool. I'm not an hvac guy but have engineering background. My A coil came with a leak and I found it with a leak detector so now every 6 months to a year I check my units for leaks. Would be a PITA if it was in crawl space. Seems you probably had little or no other options here. Another hvac guy says to put micron gauge up at air handler. In my case I just went with precharged lineset. Curious how well those crimps will hold up over time too. Also curious if you put in filter dryers?
I've actually run into this exact same system design down here in Chattanooga. I wanted to rip it out or not even touch it but you know how it is when you're working for someone else...
Can you please explain why you shouldn’t zone a single stage system, cause thats all i see up here in north texas, bulider grade starter homes love that setup
If each zones ductwork is sized to handle the full output of the air handler, it may work in theory. I believe on track housing you are more likely to get ductwork sized for that floors load, which may be half the air handlers rated flow. When operating with only one zone open, the customer has the inefficiencies of an undersized duct system.
That's what I need. I have 2 single stage systems and the upstairs is never comfortable. When I upgrade I will add a similar system. Don't know if I should use a variable system or a two stage system.
It’s a heat pump not a mini split. The liquid line will not sweat. If it’s like other brands you might be able to change the settings and have it run in mini split mode and then you would need to insulate both lines.
What units did you Install I couldn't understand what or if you named it in the video I'd like to install one of those in my house. Ohhh Gree! I thought green 😂 thanks great work 👍
Unfortunately that system is still essentially a 1 speed where the thermostat is on/off. They are variable components that run off a regular thermostat removing their variable capacity. I never understood why they do that, but at least it’s a small step in the right direction.
Please come down to Orlando and do this to my house. 3600sqft house with a single 5 ton. My upstairs is HOT(all the bedrooms up there). I need to do this exact thing. My house is new and was built in 2019. Very annoyed with the builder.
Does the GREE FLEXX have a rear knock-out for that 3/4 and 3/8 copper. Or did you have to make a modification? I'd think there would be some rubbing against the condensing unit.
I noticed you have your micron gauge very close to the vacuum pump. All this means is that you have to wait a bit longer for a reliable reading on your micron correct? 5:59
I saw one of your old videos and I am seriously interested in hvac is it possible to get into something like that at 16, I live in the Brentwood/Franklin area
If you can lock out strip heaters at 5 degrees F, where does the condensing unit gets its heat for defrosting exterior coils? When l lock out strip heat, my domestic unit drops the interior temperature by 3 degrees during a defrost, which it struggles to catch up to before the next defrost cycle comes. The ODW is not happy with that blast of 55 degree air either. For that matter, how do mini splits defrost. They never have strip heat, yet I never felt them blow cold in the heating season?
I am sure that house has a staircase that connects both floors. I think the units are not going to work 50% each, i.e., one unit cooling the second floor and the other the first floor, as it is intended. Cool air goes down and warm air goes up, through the staircase.
How in the world is this an upgrade? Why would you stuff a piece of equipment underneath somebody’s house like this. It wasn’t cooling enough? Maybe I can understand in the attic if the duct run was causing too much friction and air loss. Stuff in the unit underneath the house I don’t think was a good idea. I don’t like Gree so much Chinese made. Hope you have electric heat back up in those air handler’s. I couldn’t tell by looking.
Just had a question. First off I'm not an hvac guy and not judging just curious. I assume all that the previous 2nd floor ductwork left a cavity the the lines etc for the new unit could have ran in. Was it not used because of the extra lines etc distance or drainage?
you said "full variable speed system" Are those air handlers variable? I have the Mr Cool (Gree) 4-5 ton system and the air handler isn't really what I would consider "variable speed"
Why did the old unit have TWO existing disconnects? Did you hook up the 240 from air handler and 240 from condenser on same disconnect? Or just just used the same path to get to the breaker panel?
What brand mini-split is that? Also open valves at air handler? And vaccum one line at a time? Huh? 😅 I just seen.. What the heck is gree? and how do I know if there coils don't leak? Or bunch other issues?
Gree OEMs for many companies, including some major domestic companies. They are made in China, some of the brand name mini splits are made in Korea and Japan.
@qualityhvacr so i came across your channel because im looking into getting into the trade, i did watch your video from like 4 or 6 years ago, but given its 4/6 years later, would you tell someone who's looking to get into the trade the same things or would you change that opinion/recommend other things?... thanks in advanced
Hey buddy, question for ya! I’m new to the trade and I’m curious about the inverted outdoor units like you installed here. How does the wiring and the coil setup work ? Any and all info would be appreciated 🤟🔥
