Water isn't the answer. Some people go through that (call it post nasal drip) their entire lives AMHIK. Doctors just try a myriad of medications to try to narrow down a fix, and are rarely successful for any prolonged fix. It just comes back. Once again, AMHIK
I have tube type ADV tires (Yamaha T7). I've discovered that putting the inflated tube on the bare rim and then finding the heavy point BEFORE installing the tire is a great way to reduce the amount of balancing weight. Without doing so my dot/valve stem point was always a heavy spot which very would quickly rotate to the bottom when on the static balancer. FWIW
Max, you have done it again. I’ve actually seen those marks on my wheels and thought someone had scratched my wheel during a tire change. Thanks for the info!
Mr. Max, thanks for being in tune. Cheers from Alaska AK49. Finally got Heat in the Garage…letting the GWing acclimate for a week or two, and then I’m installing the fall over protection Kit. Product looks Top Shelf and Your Team Rocks from Top to Bottom👊🇺🇸👊
just checked my 2024 that has not been washed by me yet, and both were chalk marked real close to the valve stem and yellow dot lined up close as well. Interesting find. I do my own tires also.
Thanks for this. Mine’s a 2021 GWT. I’ve installed wheel stripes on mine, so chalk marks would be covered up, unfortunately. I just had new tires installed before parking it for the winter and after watching your video, checked to see how they were installed by the technician at my dealership. They’ve been perfectly, and I do mean perfectly aligned with the valve stem on each tire. I remember noticing when I bought my bike that the factory tires were NOT aligned with the stems. I thought at the time that it was just shody workmanship. But now I guess they actually knew what they were doing. 😊 My dealership uses balance beads, rather than weights and they seem to work fine.
I don't recommend it, a lot more weight was added with this system. Did you know that this system only works at constant speed and on perfect terrain? Because the acceleration, braking and impact forces on the tire will create a displacement of the balancer weights, taking them out of the correct balancing position, which is always the same. Of course, the balancing weight is lost, or the tire wears unevenly, or the wheel becomes dented; Your system will compensate and mask these problems.
Max, the inside of these rims are more permanently marked with one or two marks. My 2018 GoldWing has the internal markings front and rear, evenmy spare rear Darksider wheel. The 2004 VTX1300C I had was also marked internally for the alignment spot. I had to so mark the wheels for my 2002 GoldWing with a punch and dot of epoxy paint. The the alignment marks on the 2018 rims have been discussed on the GL1800Riders forum going back to 2018 IIRC. A few of us that change our own tires notice such things.
I cleaned up and powdercoated the wheels on my BMW R1200RT and I did the same thing with the wheels. After installing all the valves and everything I marked the heaviest spot with a permanent marker under the tire so when I am installing a new tire with my Rabaconda, I can line things up right.
Thanks for sharing Max. This information can also be found in the service manual, pages 17-9 (front wheel), 18-4 (rear wheel). The manual refers to a paint dot on the rim, I was not able to find said mark, so I put the rim on the manual balancer with no tire, no weights, found the heavy point, marked it, mounted and balanced, and had to add very little weight. I had missed this information on the first tire I mounted and balanced (rear), I had just lined up the dot to the valve stem, and the amount of weight I had to add to balance the tire was ludicrous...
So you find the heavy spot on tubeless with tire off or tubed tires with tube on rim and no tire ? Opposite the heavy spot on rim is where you position dot on the tire for least balancing weights ?
@@waynejordan6497 No, the dot goes with the the heavy spot, which is the valve stem for most cases. It has been this way for at least 40 years that I know of.
Thanks Max, I learned another new thing today. 1600 miles is all you have on your shop bike! I’ll take the time this summer to come down and put some miles on it!!! if you would like to do some additional testing, etc.😎✌️ I Enjoy my 2018 traction dynamics equipped Goldwing (steering stem)!!!
I’ve had a number of Hondas over the last 10-15 years (CB1100, VRF1200X and Cb1000R) and many have no weights at all or hardly any if they do, yet they are always glass smooth on the road. I think they are doing something clever, yet so simple at the same time.
I mount and balance my own tires and for the last twenty five years I’ve been meaning to check the heavy spot on the wheels. But every time I’m anxious once I get the old tire off and just throw the new tire on. Maybe, just maybe next time I’ll do it. 👍
Been spinning the rim without tire and finding the heavy point, than putting it on the tire mark for years. Many times no or little weight is needed. It is the way, not magic. Thanks for the video (:~>
Do not assume the valve stem is the heaviest point on the wheel. I balance my bare wheels first; mark the heavy side with a permanent red dot (wife's fingernail polish). Then I mount the tires, aligning the yellow dot (light side) with the red dot on the wheel. I proceed with a meticulous final balance of the wheel/tire setup.
I was hoping someone would bring this up. I have never found the heavy spot on a wheel to coincide with the valve stem. TPMS will probably change this.
@@aggieengineer2635 . I have balanced bare wheels with weights before mounting tires. Then mount tires and balance tires. But, have determined that this is unnecessary extra work. Now I just mark the wheel (no weights) then mount and balance tires with weight as needed.
Sometimes it is a little arrow pointing at the rim ! Uhaul didn’t balance tires 🛞 for a time and they had marks on the tires and rims that if you didn’t line them up correctly the tire would feel like a brick was in the rim going down the road !
I have a 2005 Honda Rune and the rims from the factory are marked (stamped) on the inside. Just purchased a '23 GW so I have not seen if Honda is also permanently marking/stamping the inside of those rims too, but sounds like they are.
I balance the rim with no tire by sanding it in the center with the stem /tps installed. Then put the dot at the stem, it's a one time job, at most I need 1/4 oz most of the time none.
@@Traxxion I wax the inside of my rims , not the bead area though. Makes installing tires easier. 35 years ago when spokes were the norm it helped keep them from rusting the nipples
My first set of tires had bad cupping and only lasted 4,600 miles. Since the 2nd set I have had Centramatic’s and never had any issues with double the mileage. I looked for the marks but can’t find them.
Could you fine tune the balance by starting with the dot on the mark then rotate the tire on the rim to get it more precise. For that specific tire and the specific valve system or other things?
The chrome on this bike is absolutely gorgeous! Where did all of this chrome come from? Honda needs to make a version of this bike available. I'm sick of the blacked out look and matte paint...chrome is beautiful!
This something I have wondered about for quite some time, having had both wire wheels - laced as some call them - and cast wheels on motor cycles. On laced wheels I have always left the balancing weights alone when changing tyres and never had a problem as I figure the weights are needed to balance the wheel due to the way steel rims are made these days which is a strip of steel rolled into a loop then welded, it's cheaper than the old way when a circle of steel was put on a laythe and 'knocked over' a mandrel - pretty much how alloy rims are made - and then the original 'center' is cut away leaving a hoop that is put on other mandrels and rolled into the desired profile just as the cheaper (welded) ones are. This naturally gives a more balanced rim as opposed to the welded hoops. As tyres are pretty much balanced themselves I have never bothered re-balncing wheels after fitting new tyres. Most of my riding with wire wheels was on British bikes that always had wheel rims made by Dunlop - I don't emember if they had the welded type rims but I think they may have been as they always had quite a bit of balancing weight fitted and some of the Brits had those horrid 'security clamps' fitted, which I took of to make tyre changes easier ! On cast wheels I have found that even with valve stems fitted they are balanced OK with or without tyres as the wheels are heavier than wire (or laced) ones and the 'extra' weight of the stem is compensated for by the hole the stem goes into. I have never balanced a cast wheel and NEVER had a problem with an 'out of balance' wheel/tyre combination - the only bikes I have had with cast wheels are H-D's which I fitted the cast wheels to as the laced wheels have cheap and nasty Radelli rims made in Italy and lots of balancing weights ! The first set of cast wheels were fitted with tyres and balanced at a dealer, but the weights fell of and I noticed no difference on balancing or handling so I never bothered with balancing again ! Maybe it's a question of overall mass as Harley cast wheels are heavier than wire wheels and the bikes are relatively heavy which I like as they seem to ride more smoothly than lightweight bikes even though I have 'hopped them up' to proved double the original HP a with a coresponding 50% + increase in torque, I have also addressed the notorious standard handling and brakes and only ever use Avon tyres as I have found they provide the best performance in the wet throughout my 45 year riding career. Edit: I do not 'line up' tyre balance points with wheel balance points and have found that both front and rear tyres can creep around the rims probably due to the high torque they experience from braking at the front (dual discs) and rear with the power enhancements of the engines...... the rear can rotate as much as three or four inches at the rim during the tyre's 4000 mile lifespan - I ride the heck outta my bikes - my Norton Commando would eat a rear tyre in 1500 miles !
Modern tubeless "Tyres" don't rotate on rims. Old "tube type" tires had that problem, or tires on laced wheels with tubes in them. That was the impetus for the birth of the "Rim Lock", so that the valve stem wasn't torn off and a crash could occur. The vintage wheels you are talking about weight more than the tires that were mounted to them. That has not been the case for almost 30 years. No motorcycle you will ever own or ride can accelerate or decelerate like a Moto GP bike, and the tires don't move on the rims of those bikes. All modern motorcycle wheel and tire combinations should have all weight removed, and be balanced every time a new tire is mounted.
Wonder if they are road force balancing the tires to the wheels… where they also take tire runout into account.. once measured they turn the tire to correct the balance if it is still out as much as possible.. car tires are sometimes marked for both weight and out of round.. you’ll see that as both a yellow and red circle on a tire.
Motorcycles don't have the two dot system that I have ever seen. Other folks say that Honda has marked the rim on the inside where the chalk mark is, once you remove the tire.
I have a digital balancer with a motorcycle adapter i will check my bike wheels from now on for the light spot and i wonder if my cb1100 was like that ??
I have a BMW K1600 which has air pressure sensors at the valve which weigh 58 grams… I balanced the rim prior to mounting the tyre, and virtually no weights required… it was a while ago, so I can’t remember exactly how much weight I used, but perhaps 10 or 15 grams….
Or you could check where the heavy spot on your wheels are and mark them. I fit my own tyres and have been doing that ever since I began fitting my own tyres
1600 miles in 6 years🤣 I’m not bragging but I’ve done 1650 in 24 hrs on my 2008. You’ll think I’m nuts but I use BBs in my tires to balance. 1/2 oz in the front and 1 oz back double darkside. Perfect wear every time! Love the videos👍
Yes, but I would put it on the inside of the rim, and put some type of touch up paint, white out, or fingernail polish on it so you could find it easily while changing the tire.
This is a bit off topic but is it possible to raise the handle bars at least 4or5 inches ie CNC machining new risers and possibly extending the wireing. Would like to buy a wing but bars are way too low and not set back enough for my shoulders.
I have watched a video of the sumitomo tyre factory and they put yellow dots on the tyres after being inflated and tested for leaks. They did not balance it.
@@Traxxion well, I have come out of racing retirement after finally paying my houses off. I am the guy that built the FZR400 with a KTM 510 single in it. Wera expert 40. I am going to be racing my old Kawasaki ninja 650 with a K 20s on the front still. So I’ll probably will see you at some point when I need seals or something. Anyway, glad you are well and take care my friend.
When i've mounted tires on bicycles and motorcycles not cars yet but i'm getting there. I air up the tire, spin it and if it vibrates. I move it to a different spot on the rim. I don't trust the dots I use the lettering on the tire itself. And I will mountain dismount and remount that tire maybe three times four times times to get the least vibration and then go to weights. Someday, tire manufacturers will develop balance tiresand room manufacturers will develop balanced tiresand the 2 of them can be put together. No weights, no fuss.
Finally joining your club , put a deposit on my new wing today pick up in 3 weeks, will be ordering the protection plate for the sump soon , but would love to buy more but the FREIGHT from the US to Australia has become unbelievably expensive ?!!! :(((
Welcome aboard! Take a look at other things we sell, many are quite small and can go in the same box. Things like: Kickstand Pad, Dipstick Extender, Emergency Key Tab, Centerstand Antislip Patch, Super Seat Bolt Kit, ReCabulation Kit, Etc.
@@TraxxionI've found nothing other than the line mark on the wheel rim. If others are saying there's a mark on the inside, then the only way to see it is having the tire removed from the rim.
@@mgsterling2010 Sorry about the confusion... that's exactly what they are saying. The next time you change your tire, look on the rim when the tire is off and you'll find the more permanent mark inside the wheel when the tire is off.
or the person about to mount a tire could Balance the rim WITHOUT the tire,,, put the blue tape at the balance point, THEN mount the tire with the DOT lined up with the blue tape , That's what I do with my No Mar Tire Changer at home.
Apparently, this information is in the Honda Service Manual according to some folks on my channel. They say the wheel is actually marked more permanently on the inside.
Anything liquid is pretty much roundly hated by motorcycle shops. The main reason is you don't want to ruin your ultra expensive to buy and spectacularly expensive to program TPMS sensors. Then there's rim corrosion, etc.
Been doing my own tires for 50 yrs, got 5 bikes on the road now, one is an R1. Never balanced any , after changing them. Never had any vibration or anything. What am I doing wrong?
At 4:44 and again at 4:50 you can see the arrows pointing up towards the fender. Could be that the arrow I see is something else or an artifact in the video. I know you know about tire direction...... thought it might have been mounted wrong by someone else.
Ahh, you are extremely observant, however as was noted, what you are looking at is a Dunlop logo. I agree does seem a little strange, but tire is mounted correctly.
I sold Mercedes Benz for over 40 years and knew the dot on the tire should be matched with the valve stem for balance. I’ve mounted almost all of my mc tires and follow that rule bur very few do it.
This would make sense to me if the chalk marks on the wheels and the balance marks on the tires lined up. But they don’t. So, what does all this prove? I think the idea is to align the heavy spot on the wheel with the light spot on the tire so that they will tend to cancel each other out. The more cancelling, the fewer weights will be needed on the wheel to achieve an overall balance. But to make sense, the two marked spots should be aligned. ?
That is correct, the balance mark is the light spot of the tire. The known heaviest spot of any wheel is the valve stem. This is how tires have been mounted at least for the 42 years I've been in the motorcycle business. Honda has taken it a step further by finding the actual heavy spot on the wheel/valvestem combo and marking it more precisely.
I thought he was going to say that they increased the wheel casting thickness across from the tpms sensor. I used to mark the heavy spot on my kart racing rims to align with the tire light spot many years ago. I don't know how common this is, but I was a bit anal about rotating mass in Karting.
not vehicles use tire pressure sensor to advise low tire pressure you ask well how can they tell if the tire is low well the abs rotor when the tire starts going down then the tire diameter gets smaller the abs rotor will see it and throw a code for tire pressure
Or you could simply balance the wheel with no tire on it. Then it doesn’t matter where the tires balance mark ends up since you will only be balancing the tire at that point.
Typical though that Honda gives access to the TPM valve stem from the left side of the vehicle, can be hard to reach when on the side stand, especially on the rear wheel.
To be fair, if the stem were on the other side you'd never be able to get an air chuck past the brake rotor. Even if you could, you'd risk getting grease/oil/other bad stuff on said rotor while trying to get the chuck past it. I suppose you could turn the stem around on the front, but you still would have to move the bike around in order to put the stem in position, so it probably isn't worth the trouble.
Some people have told me that once you remove the tire, there are marks inside the rim that correspond to the mark on the outer edge, so they should always be there. One guy tested his rim and the Honda mark aligned with the heavy spot.
Good information. But what I really want to know is; do you know what is the brand/manufacture of the engine guard bars on that bike? Haven't seen those before.
If that is true, it should be stamped into the wheel so when you change the tire in 30k, you have that mark to go by. If it is just chalk, it will be gone.
Other commenters on this thread said that Honda actually did that. When you remove the tire, you'll see it. Also, another person said this is described in the Honda Service Manual as well.
@@Traxxion: It's kind of jarring to hear a motorcycle I bought new as an "antique", but the 1974 Kawasaki Z-1A that I bought new came with a rim lock on the back rim. They weren't worried about hard braking, though...
@@Traxxion: I remember the GL500's and 650's (the first Silver Wings), but not the GL800's. Would be interested in seeing one of those. Wonder what was used as the foundation for it? I do remember the PC800 Pacific Coast, though. Everyone I met that owned one loved them, but the look turned to be about 20-30 years ahead of it's time, eh? Enjoy your weekend!
For fun, try to figure out how the tire manufacturer determines where the heavy and light sides of a tire will be. It's easy once you know the answer. Maybe spend a few $$ and have your tire installer give you a balance report on your rim?? Don't guess, know!
Except that not all tire mfg mark the lightest point some mark heaviest . As for the wheel unless you have a statement from the motorcycle mfg , it falls to a probably.
No tire company marks the heaviest spot. Period. And this information is in the Honda Service Manual we have since learned. The rim is marked on the inside.
@@Traxxion This maybe true. But, if you put a perm mark on the OS of the wheel, you know for a fact and replacement tire was installed proplery at a glance. The chalk mark can wear off and then you may not know where it was and never really sure if the tire was mounted in the same location relative to the original mark. .
It‘s just Guess-say. No proofs. All proofs shown show very very different positions. Basically the idea is to have the wheel balance checked and heavy point marked (especially after use on bad roads it‘ll change) and only then place the tire with it’s light mark aligned to that found heavy-wheelpoint.
