Make sure you check out the Shave and Suds bundle through the link harrys.com/ninjon and pick something up next time you’re at your favorite store. Let me know what you get!
+1 for Harry's. I've been using the Truman razor and blades for 4 or 5 years. They're cheap enough that I don't mind tossing them after the third shave.
Ex gunpla modeller turned mini painter here, PLEASE make sure if you're using lacquer based Mr.Hobby you wear a proper mask or respirator and are in an open area as the fumes are quite toxic to breathe, one of the reasons i switched to water based acrylic primers personally. Also the smell from lacquer based acrylics (Mr.Hobby, Tamiya, Gaianotes, etc) is very strong and would fill my entire hobby room for hours if i didn't turn on my ventilation to get rid of it.
Seriously. Air purifiers do NOT remove all the TVOCs from lacquer and a N95 only blocks particulates, NOT organic vapors. You def need a proper OHSA approved respirator / filters.
@@axcel9128 unless it goes between your face and the air it won't do anything. Running room air through a charcoal filter will remove a good chunk of the fumes, but unless you have a massive system it won't do enough to really matter. Just open a window and have a fan going to create airflow, and leave the room/keep on the respirator for a few minutes once you're done spraying.
@@axcel9128no. You still very much need a respirator and a means of evacuating the vapors (airbrush booth or fume hood vented to the outside type of setup)
This pre-shading step would be very *very* easy to accomplish with oil paints if you're willing to slather it on and let it cure for a day. medium toned primer, dark oil colors, wash consistency, apply it all over. you'll get a ton of mileage out of this, because oil paints are sooooo much more pigment dense than acrylics.
I wonder with washing as pre shade will be the same, unless the mini is head down during drying, the paint will stain recesses, but also to top area of a fold, where should be the highlight. Am I missing something. None the less, I would like that idea.
Jon - you need to use a respirator with a charcoal filter that filters organic compounds - VoCs. You should also, exhaust that air outside. I’ve been using that primer and thinner for a few years, it is my favorite, but please be safe.
I've been using that primer in a rattle can for a while now and it is indeed awesome. You just have to ventilate where you paint and let them sit for a long time before the models don't smell like chemicals. After saying that, the finish is smooth and takes paint like a dream.
Golden Demon aside, I think you have transcended RU-vid mini painter. Kind of on a whole different level with content and approach to painting, techniques, styles, etc. that inspire and make painting fun.
I bought this paint at Adepticon because I took a class that used them. I was surprised how much you can thin them. It was basically water and still glazed well.
When I saw your first video about the color cube, my wife and I ordered it for your painting. Afterwatching this video, I was feeling a bit off on my painting, so I came up with a random dice generator to pick a paint scheme. Curoius to see the results. Here is how I came up with a selection. I rolled a d10 to get the range of a starting card #. Rolled a 6, so in the range of 201-300. 1-2 = 001-100 3-4 = 101-200 5-6 = 201-300 7-8 = 301-400 9-10 = 401-500 Then rolled d100 to get my specific card, rolled an 87. and there's my scheme.
Congrats on the well deserved trophy! I love your painting style, it was your channel that reignited my interest in the hobby I've been away from for 30+ years.
Great video. The GSI creos stuff is truly the best. It is however extraordinarily toxic. If anyone wants to try it out please please please make sure you have an appropriate organic solvents mask as well as air filter. The paint is super gnarly but incredible.
Your statement about learning and visualizing color theory through miniature painting is dead on. I’ve been saying this for years, as I’ve studied color theory for years, while having a background in studying and learning it 2dimensionally, when you think about it and apply it 3 dimensionally as with mini painting everything just clicks. This may sound like a no-brainer, but having an object with a direct light source, creating its chiaroscuro truly is one of the best ways to understand how we perceive dimension, color, shape and form. Oh and your mentioning of Flow-state, was awesome to hear as well. Flow-state is actually a really difficult state to achieve, but with mini painting it’s so effortless. Study’s have come out about how mini painting is extremely good for your brain, and mental health (I can’t say the same for our spines, lol). Anyway, thank you Jon! Loved this video!
Please for the love of god, put some respiratory protection (eye protection as well if you could) and never spray Lacquer in closed room without ventilator it's literally poisonous if not handle properly, there's a reason why Gundam painters always use specialized painting booth when handling lacquer paints, it's magic, but at a price.
Dude! You hit the nail on the head! Painting by feel is such a great way to put it. It breaks down the walls when working to a "recipe". If it feels right, it probably is.
Sweet looking model as usual. I'm sure I wasn't the only person to recommend the Mr Surfacer 1500 in the comments on your TUP video, but it did make me smile to see you use it in this video. The organic solvents are the only down-side really. But if you wear an appropriate mask, and have a room with good ventilation, its worth it for the result they give.
Mixing painting and moding techniques from other hobbies is always a great way to learn and create your own style of painting. I use panel lining, decals, and scribing techniques I've picked up from gunpla, dry brushing, layered and blended colors and washes from mini painting, and even ink and colored pencil illustration techniques in all of my models and minis and its helped me have fun with all of my hobbies. Lately I've been painting a lot of Battletech mechs and have been using Tamiya panel lining inks to add weathering and detail to my minis. Using brown and red inks on a desert tan bass coat really makes the details pop and makes it looks like rusted or dirt encrusted edges in between the panels. I've also been using common office supply highlighters on top of green and blue base coats to add slightly off color highlights and shadows as the highlighters are pretty transparent when used on other colors, but they change the color and tone just enough to make it interesting.
I appreciate it when you show these approachable paint videos. This model looks great without taking 10 hours of glazing, recessed shading, edge highlighting, more glazing, etc. You've inspired me to pull out my regular acrylics and set my speedpaints aside for a model or two.
As a canvas painter turned Warhammer Freehand mommy, if you ever have the time to 'test' a different product that isn't made with Minipainters in mind, i'd recommend Watercolors, especially Gouache.
Mr. Hobby has a wide line of primesa, both enamel and acrylic, in rattle cans. Work the same as the one you have shown. This brand is very well known not only among gunpla builders, but among us - scale modelers, for a looong time. For example - try using Mr. Hobby Mr. Cement S instead of Tamiya super thin cement - you will be surpised.
Lovely video! I find as a beginner its useful to for me to have that time to think, even if I'm taking forever. If i just jump in, that's when i make mistakes and get frustrated.
Glad to hear your first impressions of the new Atom paint range. I was intrigued when I heard that these were appearing. These sound and look promising.
I recently started using the Mr Hobby Surfacer range and it is amazing! Huge difference especially for preserving small details. I have found that you can clean out the airbrush with Mr Color Thinner 400. I also found that the paint and thinner destroy plastic paint droppers as they eat away at the plastic.
Jon this was great information, I'm always hesitant to mix colours when putting together a scheme because I'm scared I wont remember how to get the same colour again in 6 months when I get back to it. I'd be interested to see you paint Skabbik's Plague, Skaven Plaguemonks arent covered very much and seeing you do something nurgley/plaguey would be awesome.
Hey man, I love your work, and i wanted to thank you for putting the actual amount of time the model took in your video. I find in this superfast media age. The short videos dont capture the amount of time a project takes to create that video. And it can lead to unreal expectations on viewer.
Enamel and lacquer based primers are all that I use. I assumed everyone used them, since they are superior to anything else I have tried. I come from an automotive modeling background and all we use are enamels and lacquers.
Pretty much half of the Wargamers in Japan discord has already been converted to Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 for priming in the last 6 months or so. Its really magical stuff and has the widest tolerance to non-optimal temp/humidity of any primer I've ever used.
Thanks for the video! Just picked up this paint too at Adepticon. I've enjoyed it so far, but I wish you were at the booth to sell me on it :) I'll have to go deeper with the range
I never thought about how the different color pigments in those signature name brand color schemes was what was causing the mixing to end up being difficult to anticipate. The idea of lots of greys browns blacks from each combining to a muted tone was a big realization for me watching your video. Thanks for the lesson !
There we go, someone unlocking more of what Japanese hobby supply companies have been perfecting for decades. I love Mr. Hobby and Tamiya products and was fortunate enough to have a love for gunpla and scale modeling before I got into the miniature hobby so all my tools and techniques just transferred over for the most part with some slight tweaks
I use Vallejo polyurethane acrylic and Vallejo thinner, Ive only had it rub off when I've not cleaned and prepped, otherwise it's silky smooth and adheres really well. Barbatos rex is a great RU-vid channel to watch if you really want to know about airbrushing various different types of paint. He's a great guy and always tells it how it is
Coming from a scale modelling background I gave up on water based acrylic primers some time ago. Even if you manage to get them on without too much frustration their adhesion to the surface is rubbish. When using paint masks the primer often lifts and destroys the work. I switched to lacquer based primers some time ago after talking with a pro commission builder and have never had an issue with airbrush clogging or paint lifting. Having said that, I am in the happy position of having a spray booth that vents to outside. BTW congratulations on the Golden Demon result 👍👏
Congratulations on the golden demon, loved that unit/diorama! Golden So Flat is expensive but you get 8x a normal bottle of mini paint so it's worth it for some colours you use all the time
@Ninjon I started watching you well over a year ago and have not missed an episode since. You have made me want to paint minis, an interest I never knew I wanted in life. Your channel and videos are amazing and your painting is legend. Congrats on the trophy and the partnership with exemplar for the wet palette (I had to have the Ninjon one so I emptied my bank account a little without hesitation). Keep up the great work and god bless you Ninjon, your are an awesome dude 🤘🏻😁.
These looks very similar, and have the same name, as the new paints from Ammo by Mig... There is quite the range of them over here in Europe, not just one set.
Hello! the formulation is totally different from the normal Atom range, this paint formula is maded by us in collab with Ammo Mig, but the paint is different
@@southpaw5483 Hello! the formulation is totally different from the normal Atom range, this paint formula is maded by us in collab with Ammo Mig, but the paint is different. our paint is oriented to both brush and airbrush use, while ATOM's normal range is mainly for airbrush use.
Another inspirational video. As always. I struggle sometimes to just paint. I think just grabbing a model specifically to just have fun and paint is a great idea. Thank you again!
I had picked those paints up at adepticon. They should be arriving today. I had to get them shipped because the airliner wouldn’t allow me to fly with them.
I belive mixing paints is one of the best things in this hobby because it really lets you get creative with how you want to define your mini. It's also great because it's cheaper, you don't need to bu 20 different shades of green to get the right premade color for this specific cogitator screen.
11:10 using the Atom paints to punch intensity into a premixed "traditional" miniature paint just blew my mind like you shot that wisdom from a grassy knoll.
Another thing to note with models not looking the same as in videos is that computer monitors and phone screens can show shades of color differently from real life. Even lighting can make a difference. I have 2 different monitors with different color vibrancies, at around 6:00 one monitor shows a rusty orange shade with a more vibrant green, the other is a more chocolate brown hue with a much more muted green.
Its about time you discovered the unicorn tears. I love my Mr. Hobby and Tamiya products. I do scale models, figures and table top game stuff. Most of the products get used between all of these things. Some of them are easy to use others need a little more time and experimentation. Theres science in this shit 😆
I'm pretty sure you want to use Lacquer Thinner to clean out your airbrush for lacquer paint like MR. Hobby, that is what I was taught to use. Mineral spirits might do the trick, but it isn't intended to be used for lacquer paint. No need to buy the fancy stuff though, the normal can of lacquer thinner from the hardware store is just fine. I love MR. Hobby primers though, they are really great coverage and are really hard to mess up.
Your sponsor: you know I use Harry’s, it’s available in one of the supermarket chains in the uk. Harry’s is actually really good, waaaay cheaper than Gillette etc and gives a good, yet gentler shave. It’s a great sponsor choice ❤
Very inspiring, Jon. I find your easy to follow painting tutes and your range of approaches really, really informative and fun. Keep up the great work! …and congrats on the GD!!
I havw the Kroot box, no intention to build an army. But the kore I see content creators paint them, the more that changes. They have so much detail and personality. Great vid, Jon.
Finally John has learned of the god tier primer that is Mr. Color Hobby Black 1500, it is INSANELY good. I have used it on every Tau and Gunpla I have painted and nothing even comes close to looking as nice. I wouldn't use anything else.
I would like to see how you paint a Space Wolves miniature with your style. The shadows you use are fun and the way you interpret color schemes for armies and units would be awesome. Most space wolves videos are... well... the same or are beyond what a table top ready painter would do for their units.
So happy you took the advice and tried the mr.hobby primers, they are pretty amazing right😅 i only been using those and a-stand primer from mig ammo(former alclad2) the last 6 years
Hello, Big Child Creatives here! Thank you very much for the review Ninjon, we are very happy that you like our new paints! About it, we are going to release more paints, we will give you all more details very soon!
Man, I'm glad a popular minipainter has finally discovered the joys of lacquer primer (just wait until you try lacquer metallics -- chef kiss). Buuuuuuut, you do need ventilation and a proper respirator as that stuff is no good to breathe in.
Be Aware os somehing... because you are using a lacquer base solvent paint, if you are not using an iwata, you will destroy the o-rings for the seals of your airbrush. Just keep that in mind. I recomend to switch to an Iwata Revolution CR, with a 0.5mm niddle, is perfect for priming and varnishes... also metalic (specially the acrylics ones that the mica is very big), but any iwata will do the trick excpt the Neo ones, those are not an Iwata Originals, just powered by iwata and those uses O-ring for the seeling.
You are a good teacher head and shoulders above other RU-vidrs. Everything is communicated clearly and easy to understand. A lot of excellent points made in this video
Your comment about polyurethane primer on TUP actually saved me from insanity. That same week, I was priming a mini and my airbrush kept clogging and because of what you said, I realized it wasn't my airbrush at all, just the primer was completely shot. Seriously, thanks.
Brother I’ve been using alcohol as a thinner for years. If you do the math and dilute isopropyl alcohol to 30% makes coverage and cleaning easy. Now when using it you need to up the amount of paint to make it work. After a couple tries… easy Peezy lemon squeezy
Think that process you’re talking about is called AUTOMATISM In art, automatism refers to creating art without conscious thought, accessing material from the unconscious mind as part of the creative process. It’s knowing your paints, knowing what you need to do. It’s definitely something that’s amazing when it happens. I tell people it’s like getting runners high when creating. Everything just flows 😀
