It's interesting that the meaning of creole has evolved in America so much. Many black people in Louisiana use the term creole for themselves whereas Cajun now refers to white counterparts This was a great video! Thank you for putting this together!
It is so important to dig into these histories! At the same time, if we removed every problematic material or style, we would have nothing to wear at all. I think your approach of doing the research, and presenting it is a better solution than avoiding it, or remaining ignorant.
I agree with you. I'm Lakota and although we were colonized Native women in the Plains were happy to have tradecloth and other goods they got by trading with colonists and settlers. Modern powwows are a living example of many different styles that developed when women and men created regalia. Beads, metal jingles, ribbons, printed fabrics, coins and other items of clothing are all the goods that have been used for decoration during colonization.
Totally agree! @A Janeite Sews, you just earned a subscription, that history lesson was so cool. I had a rough idea where it came from but never dove deep into the topic. It's not the proudest moment of human history but it's good to be aware of some things.
Thank you for both the history lesson! The historical costuming community has had some noticeable issues this year, and I'm glad that we're more aware and have people like you demonstrating a more conscious approach to making.
Upon reading the title I expected this to be about the environmental impact of cotton growing and the exploitation of textile workers (often women) in India and Bangladesh. But it was also interesting to learn more about the historical origins of the chemise gown. I did not know this before. Thank you for sharing your research.
This was so interesting. So much history involved in these styles of clothing. I think creole originated from Spanish because they were the first European people to explore the Caribbean and they used the word Criollos to distinguish between people of Spanish blood only but born in the American colonies. People of mixed blood - Spanish/ Indian were mestizos. Later it came to symbolize people of Spanish or French blood mixed with black heritage in Louisiana. Another interesting fact is that when the Spanish first arrived there were an estimated 500,000 Indigenous people living on the Caribbean islands. The Taino, Arawak and Carib people were the first to be enslaved as Columbus wrote to his Spanish connections. Many were captured and taken to Europe as slaves. The Indigenous of the Caribbean were also growing their own cotton which had been developed in Mesomerica and was different from the other types grown in other countries. However, because of the lack of immunity from the diseases brought by European explorers these Indigenous Caribbeans died out as a people and only a few survived. The Europeans, free people of color and African slaves entirely replaced the original inhabitants of the islands. These original people are often erased in these conversations and few people acknowledge their contribution and eventual extinction during colonization.
Good point! I'm a Floridian, and most people who have grown up here have no idea there was a pre-Seminole indigenous population in our state wiped out from colonization in the same way as the Caribbean peoples.
It was very interesting to watch. As a mixed black woman I've come to know about the origin of this dress a while ago but you added a lot and I appreciate it. I also live in Bordeaux and it's very hot and humid in the summer here so it's totally understandable as to why they chose to wear this style as well. Kinda weird to hear creole defining white people but I suppose the use of the word evolved with time :) Now it's mostly used as the term for the language that's spoken in the isles (or by people originating from there) It's slightly different on each island. It's also used to describe a type of hooped earrings. I've come to learn that they were the only jewelry enslaved and free people of color could wear. I personally plan on making an historybound version of it (mid-calf, less ruffles) and your method of construction with the fitted back really helped me visualize what I wanted, so thanks!
Thank you! I was also surprised to read in Ashelford’s article the meaning of “creole” in late 18th century Europe, and it would be interesting to see if people of color had different meanings at that time, and how the word evolved. I think it has caused some confusion because, while modern historians do attribute the style to enslaved and free people of color in the West Indies, the fashion writings at the time definitely attributed to white women in the colonies. And I think many modern historical costumers assumed, like me, that it originated with Marie Antoinette. So I’m happy to spread the word!
@@AJaneiteSews You can see the evolution of the word from the European French perspective by looking in the online dictionary of L'Académie française: 1694 (1st edition) - not there 1718 (2nd edition) Criole : People born in the West Indies from an European father and mother. Some people say Créole. 1740 (3rd edition) Criole : People born in the West Indies from an European father and mother. Some people say Créole. 1762 (4th edition) Créole : Name given to someone from European origins born in the Americas. 1798 (5th edition) Créole : Name given to someone from European origins born in the Americas. 1835 (6th edition) Créole : Name given to someone from European origins born in the colonies. 1878 (7th edition) Créole : Name given to someone from European origins born in the colonies. 1935 (8th edition) Créole : White men or woman, born in the intertropical colonies. Also used as an adjective. 2021 9th edition (not published yet, but available online) : 1. Originally, a person from an European family born in one of the former colonies of the tropical area of the Americas and the Indian Ocean, especially form the Antilles. Also used as an adjective. 2. By extension, every person born in those regions, whatever her heritage. 3. Large ring earrings. So only the last edition recognize Black Créole as Créole, but of course, dictionary definition can only change after the use of the word had changed first and the dictionary of the Académie française is usually the most traditional and reflect French from France, the use of the word may had differed in the colonies. The current definition probably dates from the 40's. The Académie française is reviewing its dictionary one letter at a time from A to Z, so C should had come pretty fast after a new edition was released. For reference, the Oxford Dictionary's first definition of "creole" is "a person whose ancestors were among the first Europeans who settles in the West Indies or South America, or one of the French or Spanish people who settled in the southern states of the US". Second is "a person of mixed European and African race, especially one who lives in the West Indies".
great video. I do however want to point out that you did not say anything about the fabric that you used - the white indian cotton sold by Ikea. it is still produced in India, and while Ikea did create the BCI, which aims to promote measurable improvements in the industry - the main reason you can get a 20$ curtains of good quality cotton to make this dress, is still cheap labor in a poor country. Just something that should, to my opinion, be brought up when talking about exploitation and colonialism, as it continues to this day.
You are amazing for this. I’ve always felt that the Robe a la creole came from en slaved Africans. You can still see it today in Cuba and Haiti and Brazil , during voodoo or original African belief practices. They wear all white dress as well as all white head dress during ceremonies.
Thank you, that means a lot!! Oh, yes, and @notyourmamashistory had an Instagram post this summer where Cheyney McKnight was all in white as she led a ceremony to honor African ancestors and it was beautiful. After making this video, some costuming acquaintances shared some resources that do explicitly link the Robe a la creole to free and enslaved Black women’s dress (thank goodness-I was getting very frustrated thinking this has not been stated explicitly before) and I’ve linked an article in the description.
I so appreciate the time you spent researching this truly heartfelt project. The dress fits you beautifully! I now need a big floofy hat in my life. :)
Wonderful video, and thank you so much for adding your contribution to the research and resources surrounding this style of gown. It's a lot to unpack and you've done an admirable job of explaining it.
Very interesting and Informative. I knew about Marie Antoinette in relation to this gown but not about it’s Creole history. Good research! I learned something new today and I am grateful, thank you.
Excellent video, very interesting and informative. You have a new subscriber. And I will be getting more fabric from Ikea. I've used old Ikea curtains for mock-ups. I appreciate your video and the time you took to make it. I'm just starting my journey and have learned much from your video!! Your video is down to earth, very helpful for beginners. I'm making this gown for next summer. I love it!! It is so beautiful!! Thank you!!
Let's be real, every European fashion for the past 400+ years is on some level problematic. You've got cultural appropriation, wealth built on the backs of enslaved people, imperialism, worker exploitation, severe sexism against female garment/textile workers, classism, child labor, destruction of traditional craftsmanship, pollution...fashion keeps on finding new ways of being morally dubious.
@@TheEternallyAggrieved1999 Indifference is what perpetuates these issues aside from the people actively partaking into harmful behaviors, so really, if deep diving into history isn't part of your interest, why are you here to target those that are? Also, you know what else is insane?, that every single thing the commenter listed is true, but of course, someone that has never been on the receiving end of said mistreatment (I assume) wouldn't normally be interested in changing systematic issues :)
We should not forget that Mantua dress was in its beginnings a hanfu from China or a kosode kimono from Japan imported through the town of Mantua and worn as a robe and later then pinned to place with pins to look more close to European fashions of the time and then slowly instead of pinned sewed into place and evolved into it's own thing so mantua is a result of appropriation or cultural import from Asia so it's highly believable that French in the colonies took the dress of the locals and with some alterations to look more "european fancy" made it the chemise ala reine and appropriated it as well. The appropriation though is that we are misinformed about the origins of this style if we accept it as a cultural influence from the Native peope of the colonies it is a cultural influence.History is full of cultural exchanges andinfluence the sad thing is that the colonists the high and powerfull never want to admit that they accepted influence by the ones they think as below them because this crushes all the myth that they are somehow superior and it's a proof that there is no reality in any supremacist ideas.
I wanted to add that to me if someone makes and wears this dress while at the same time educates peoples about it's origins it's a good thing cause it is the proof that the European colonists who thought they were better and knew it all were not better and actually HAD to accept influence from the Native and local people of the colonies to just survive and not faint all the time in the climate ,and they liked it so much they brought this cultural influence back to Europe with them it proves that they were not the ones who brought culture but the ones who BORROWED culture from the Native people and here from the Caribbean people.
Could you make a chemise a la reine with African wax fabric? Or is the fabric too stiff? Basically an African character would like to sew (i would never wear this because it would be an appropriation) African wax fabric into a chemise a la reine. Or would the stiffness of African wax fabric be more suited to a robe Italian from the 1770s? Also if you were walking the streets of Paris in the 1780's would you see non aristocratic women wearing dresses like the chemise a la Reine? Didn't noodle on Instagram (whom I am now following) make a Woolen chemise a la Reine? Would that be a feasible garment for a time traveller?
Thank you for watching! I wanted to make badges but barely had time to get the videos done in time because of my injury. If I can make one retroactively this weekend I will post a link! 💚
The chemise a la riene is my favorite dress from the 18th century but I haven’t made one yet. I was really said when I heard that it was found to be problematic due to the history. I was sad because it’s my favorite style of dress and I wanted one but I also want to be respectful.
Ashelford has been criticized by other historians for oversimplifying sources and ignoring other influences on the chemise style gowns. For example many other sources associate the style with England and the growing French trend toward English styles. This video continues to oversimplify the issue and erase the complexity of the issue. ALL fashion from this period is "problematic" because it was linked to the slave trade, but it's wrong to single out one single style of gown based on exaggerated connections. It would be much more productive and anti-racist if historical costumers addressed these systematic issues instead of arguing over whether individual styles/gowns are "problematic" or not. It's ALL problematic!! I also find it *interesting* how it's always WHITE costumers trying to police what other people wear. Maybe ask an actual PoC what they think next time, or ask them for an interview? This constant costuming discourse is starting to reek of White Saviorism all over again.
Etude In your blouse-in your skirt in classic romance, Your experience tears in the silk of your shawl, Your tone in the waving manners of your skirt, Flooding muliebrity in moral beauty. Your source is cozy warmth in your heart, Your sea basin with accompanying passion, Swishing your gliding walk in posture, In length of waterfall flooding the depth. Surrounded by protection of current of your sea, By timeless feature of cordial attitude, It’s color with hot storm roaring embrace, Enchanting infinity in the world of your loyalty. It’s material in salient charm of your bosoms, In changing relation in windy occasion, Feeling your custom evokes you in several ways, In humble romance of your profound beauty.
I'd be very interested to know what historical source you found the word gaulle in, since it's not in any period sources I've seen. Mostly it's chemise a la reine, with one or two robe a la Creole. And chemise? Have been in Europe for damn near 1000 years at that point- the origin of the word is Latin. Overall this seems like a very laborious effort to be outraged at something that was simply fashion. Does the fashion originate from the West Indies? Possibly. With the differing climate and material available it would necessitate different styles of clothing. However, the visual record of the French colonies is thin, and the written record seems to think these were high fashion. As for the popularity in France, people have always been drawn to the exotic, especially when it's expensive and hard to acquire- you can still see that today. Frankly that a bunch of white people feel the need to save the day seems patronizing, as is the expectation that class and status should have it's own dress code with no cross over permitted. How about the similar in style robes athéniennes? I don't see you trying save the Greeks. The chemise a la reine is fascinating from a social history. The style encapsulates changing roles and morality. as well as the increasing importance of importing materials from around the world. I've seen it argued that that the portrait of Marie Antoinette (originally called la Reine avec chapeau in the catalogs) politicking
