I made traditional Japanese household wear.

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I purchased a super cute hedgehog print fabric and asked you for ideas, what to sew with it. I received amazing ideas for traditional Japanese household wear. It was the best opportunity to try out my "newest" vintage sewing book from 1950.
Watch me how I make a mompe (もんぺ) and kappougi (割烹着) with original sewing patterns.
This is the shop I bought the Indian lace:
hanacafe_online...
00:00 Intro
01:58 Starting with the Kappougi
05:43 Laces and lace insertion
10:29 The history of Kappougi
11:19 Finishing the sleeves
13:21 More lace insertion
17:83 Kappougi Reveal
18:21 How to sew a Mompe
27:28 The history of Mompe
28:34 How to sew a French seam
29:28 How to do "sasahida"
34:12 Pleats and sewing on ties
37:19 Mompe Reveal
Thank you so much for watching!!
Meet me on Patreon in an online kimono workshop twice a month!
/ billymatsunaga
You wanna know more about kimono? Find more on my blog.
→ kumakimonokoi.wordpress.com/ ←
Instagram
@biriinyan ( biriinyan?...)
Twitter
@briinyan ( / biriinyan )
Music:
"Mizuki" by Bad Snacks
"Dreams" from bensound.com
"Lazy Walk" by Cheel
"Shibuya" by Bad Snacks
"Kawaii" by Bad Snacks
"Kimono Life" by Sondey
"New Moon" by Bad Snacks
"Juneberry Junction" by Chris Haugen
Intro Soundeffect:
Kabuki Shout ち音楽堂 (www.c-ongaku.com/ongaku2.html)

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Опубликовано:

6 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 126

@sonipitts 3 года назад

For future reference, another way to sew insertion lace that can be easier for anyone who's worried about maintaining straight lines, maintaining accurate curves, or sewing along a potentially warpable or delicate/fraying cut fabric edge is to sew the lace down over the intact fabric where you want it (either on top of the fabric or underneath, depending on the final look you're going for and whether you want the final hemmed fabric edges to show or not), THEN cut the fabric between the lines of stitching, fold the raw edges back and finish as desired. This way, the fabric and the position of the lace remains stable throughout the process, the cut edges will not suffer from handling during sewing, and very complex curves can be created fairly easily.

@cristianavadean2349 3 года назад

I think dyeing the lace a darker shade was such a "happy accident". I think it looks great darker like that. It matches the fabric well and it's nice to see the lace in two different colors! You could always replace the really pretty silk lace with a more practical cotton one (if you can find it! nice cotton lace is difficult to find here too!), just so you can get more use out of it. Although it does look real pretty as is... And the mompe looks great too! Man, it's always a pleasure to see one of your videos! Thank you so much for making them!

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Yeah, I think it was a happy accident, too. Anyway, I will definitely not replace the Indian lace, because I made that choice while knowing what I’m doing. And I find the kappōgi cuter that way 😊

@heteranthera3473 3 года назад

I really like the hedgehog-fabric, it is so cute! And the colours of the laces match so well together I think.

@carolleenkelmann3829 3 года назад

I would like to have at my disposal, an antique Kimono pattern textbook like yours plus a list of the fabric shops you visited in Tokyo. I use Assam tea bags for dying cotton lace and yes, lace and trimmings like you bought are becoming very difficult to obtain, the world over.- has been for the past 20 yrs. I love your kimono channel. It disappeared from my notifications for a while now.So I am appreciating this video very much.

@tokyos7459 3 года назад

Thank you so much for your videos! Its so hard finding content on pattern cutting/making traditional Japanese garments. Your video on vintage Japanese sewing books was so good!

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Aw, thank you! There will be more!

@Yoyocreative 3 года назад

Hi there! I wanted to take the time to thank you Billy! I stumbled upon your channel when I started Kyudo about a month ago. I got the traditional clothing worn for Kyudo (obi, gi and hakama), but gosh... How do I wear it! 😅 I found your channel and was way less intimidated by the clothes after your explanation 🤭 I know things may be worn a bit differently in Kyudo, but I wore the traditional clothes for the first time during training and I felt so confident and happy! In the meantime, I also followed your hakama sewing video and made my own hakama (without the lining! 🤭) And I'm working on a Gi now! You helped me overcome the awkwardness of wearing foreign clothes and gave me the confidence I needed! Thank you so, so much! ❤️

@clairevandenberg8204 3 месяца назад

I would love a copy of the book you’re working from! I collect historic and ethnic pattern books from many countries. I now have family in India as well, so saris and Lehenga are in my wardrobe.

@user-md4zr6jr6t 3 года назад

wow, Billy! you just made my dream come true. i've never even had a pattern for those. you're perfect😍

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

I’m happy you like it ❤️

@BlackStoveStudio 3 года назад

This tutorial was perfect...The cherry on top was your Slip Knot tshirt♡ Sending Love and admiration from Cape Breton Island.

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Haha! I’m glad you liked my shirt!

@kenshinhimura2322 3 года назад

I love kimono. One of my dreams is to go to Japan one day and rent one for some pictures. I’m so glad they love to share their tradition clothing. Which is weird when you think about it. Because it is basically everyday clothing a couple hundred years ago.

@CatherinaFlk 2 года назад

Watched this video several times, trying to decide if I want to make the whole set - and only now noticed your AMAZING panda earing. Little bear just hanging....I have a severe need 😃😃😃😃

@shonitagarcia3222 3 года назад

Great job on both pieces. I do love the cute hedgehogs on the pattern. I think I would have done a bit of a modern trick to put in the silk lace with velcro or snaps so that it could be easily removed for washing your cover- all apron. I do love your wrap pants. We make something simular in Renaissance faires and we just call them wrap pants. But yours are definitely more skilled in the techniques for sure. I love that. You did a beautiful job on both pieces of clothing. Yes, with dyes you have to pull out your fabric sooner than you think because the exposure to the air will also help darken the color. So keep that in mind for next time when dyeing. But overall, I think you did great. The lace you picked was perfect. Thank you so much for sharing you work and your lovely garden. Don't forget to pick those basil seed heads so that your basil will keep producing more leaves and will bush out more. Unless you were waiting to collect the seeds that's understandable. I'm also a sewing, gardener, cook and crafty person too. Thank you again. Take care.

@fimbulsummer 3 года назад

Loved this episode, seeing more of your personality outside of kimono. You just have to teach us how to tie the tenugui like that on your head - it’s super useful and I can’t ever seem to get it tight enough. Thanks for this amazing lesson! I’m finishing up a haori at the moment and would very much like to sew some samue for around the house. Is that on your list by any chance?

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

I showed how to do the tenugui trick on my vlog I’ve posted a month ago. I’ve put it as “anekaburi” in the description, so you can skip through the video.

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Oh, and Samue is on the list, but unfortunately not too soon, because I’m currently tackling a few really big projects 🙈

@fimbulsummer 3 года назад

@@BillyMatsunaga Thank you! You’ve solved my mystery, I’ve always wanted to know what those were called. I love the name 姉さん被り. And they look a bit like a bonnet - so cute!

@Gandellion 3 года назад

I really love the music you use!

@MissGroves 3 года назад

I love your pandas! Everyone needs mompe!

@Kittyintheraiyn 3 года назад

Everything with the mompe and kappougi was great and informative, but my heart belongs to the Sailor Moon card you were using as a bookmark X3

@junelovell1189 3 года назад

i'm sure you've figured it out but that rectangular 'jutting out' part is probably a vent (???). I usually refer to another pattern just to see a comparison. I wash silk apparel, including high end pieces but I don't put in the dryer.

@jennydiedrick-edwards8108 3 года назад

Dearest Billy thank you for your videos. Just in case you use insertion lace again you can stitch down both sides of the lace onto the sleeve without first cutting your fashion fabric into sections. Then you can carefully cut between your seams and stitch the allowance back revealing the lace. And absolutely no extra work on how this will effect the length of the sleeve.

@k.s.k.7721 3 года назад

Thanks for the great video. For anyone interested in sewing their own simple Japanese garments, I highly recommend the patterns by: Folkwear. # 112 - Japanese Field Clothing (Hippari Jacket, Padded Jacket and Mompe Field Pants); #113 Japanese Kimono for Men & Women, with length and sleeve variations. These can be found either on the Folkwear website, or from places like Etsy/Ebay. They are very clear, the patterns are on heavy paper, and offer historic, cultural ideas on how to make the garment more or less authentic. A simple Kappogi pattern can be purchased from Eastwind Art (eastwindart.com). Hope these resources are helpful.

@pickingupsticks6767 2 года назад

Thank you for another lovely video. And just in case you are interested, Daiso has a fantastic little wire gadget for threading elastic through a hem. So much easier than using a safety pin. 😉

@lunam7829 2 года назад

I've been searching everywhere since a long time to find what those pants were... I'm so grateful, your channel is amazing and makes my dream to wear kimono come true. Thank you so much for your content

@RealMelodyBlue 3 года назад

Your hedgehog is so cute ❤️

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Thank you ❤️

@kattkatt744 3 года назад

Your hedgehog is very cute! And you look lovely in the finished garments! I find it interesting that the Kappougi has made it over into modern japanese wear. It makes sense since it protects not only the front of your body, but also your arms. Could you maybe do a video on the book? Showing more form it? It looks very interesting.

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

I won’t do a whole video on only this book, but you’ll see it definitely a little more on my videos (I btw did also use it for the hakama I made ☺️).

@damoneugenerich Год назад

You kill me! Love the metal yard work break! I love your dying, the lace, and the outcome!

@TealCheetah 3 года назад

The only excuse you need to buy hedgehog fabric, is that it's hedgehog fabric!

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Exactly!!

@anncortez4056 3 года назад

Your hedgehog is so cute

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Hehe 🦔

@acekidatelier 3 года назад

the two items are ADORABLE i need to make some for myself

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Thank youuu! 🧡

@xenomorph6599 Год назад

Haven't been finding many traditional Japanese garment sewing videos. Thanks for posting these!

@beareid6053 3 года назад

Thanks for this. These are two things I have always wanted to make for myself.

@fezontheblock467 3 года назад

The Slipknot shirt tho 😍😍😍

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Hehe 💜💜

@elizabethsloan3192 3 года назад

That fabric is so cute!!

@crosshant4596 3 года назад

Yay Billy is back! I have missed her so much.

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

I’ve posted a video properly 2 weeks ago… 🙈🙈

@crosshant4596 3 года назад

Two weeks feels like sooooo long ago

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Haha! You’re too sweet!! 💜💜💜

@kokujinkimono2658 3 года назад

Excellent vidéo as always👏👏👍😊!!

@gabriellespanke 3 года назад

Those both turned out super adorable!

@maceymooo 3 года назад

i can’t wait to try my hand at this

@madeleine0992 3 года назад

Hallelujah she did a video!!! I need one of these so badly

@beth2736 3 года назад

Wonderful and inspiring, as always! Thank you ❤️

@TwixyNo 3 года назад

Thank you, Billie.

@charliecat5686 3 года назад

Wow great job! I love the pattern of the fabric too, so cute!! Your sewing videos are so informative!

@TwospotzArtAndCraft 3 года назад

Loving the crafty side of things, and hedgie cuteness. Plus living for the variation of kimono you show us here. Hope the lawn grew well in the end!

@wsadhu Год назад

those small rectangles of 40 cm might be double-folded softer extensions of the rather stiff quad-folded 140cm back-tie

@hinas_for_life 3 года назад

Hello again, great video as usual. One thought I had was maybe the extra fabric piece for the cuff of the Moppe might be so that when the fabric gets worn thin on the edge your underlaying fabric is still intact!

@LadyNiennell 3 года назад

Usagi-chan!

@wigglypaw 3 года назад

here is a tip- you could have easily boiled onion skin-the papery bits, and dropped in your whites. perfect beige.

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

True!! Haven’t thought about that at all 🙈

@thetimetravellingtailor6323 3 года назад

This video was definitely well worth the wait, Billy!!! I really love seeing how different people wear their kimono and so this video was right up my alley.

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Thank you 💜

@BradKandyCroftFamily 2 года назад

The mompe would look cute as just regular pants too!

@cirquedude123 3 года назад

I love that! I want to make myself one for housework!!!!! I still haven’t even cut my own kimono from a pattern yet, I lost my pattern I need to find it. I need to ask you about a project my brother and I are planning out but its his idea and its so cool I’ll have to tell you about it in a private message because I don’t want anyone stealing this idea because its that cool it will make your jaw drop… at least my brothers idea made my jaw drop. I might have to schedule a session with you because I have hanhaba obi that is too short and its so hard and some times impossible for me to do most all of the gender neutral obi arrangements. I’ll get around to scheduling one eventually. Thank you for your awesome videos!!!!!

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Can’t wait too meet you online then!! (And I’m really curious about your brother’s idea!!)

@wendimitilinakis1291 Месяц назад

You could try tea staining or coffee. I'd sample each first.

@alderankorym 3 года назад

Hahaha, the slipknot t-shirt O K, but the "garden action" with some dirty and growly metal cut in the middle of super cuty fluffy music really took me by surprise! What metal bands do you like by the way? :D Nice kappougi tho, impressive detailing for something meant for house cleaning.

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Oh… I’m super mainstream when it comes to metal bands. Slipknot, Korn… in J-Rock I like Mucc and Maximum the Hormones a lot.

@XxJenniekinsxX 3 года назад

Like Japanese cottagecore

@lizr3277 Год назад

Love this video. Would love to see how you sewed the gussets into the legs!

@tinamoreland434 3 года назад

Must have more Franzl content please!

@RealMelodyBlue 3 года назад

They say when you dye fabric, pick the colour of your choice and buy dye that is about one shade lighter

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

They didn’t have the same color lighter. I would have had to go with a total different color. So that didn’t work this time 😪 but next time I’ll buy for sure different dye. I dyed a shirt with what was left and I didn’t like it at all.

@RealMelodyBlue 3 года назад

@@BillyMatsunaga you do such amazing work, even if it was not the colour you wanted, it still came out perfect!

@aoifa_silverDragon 2 года назад

Hello, i just stumbled on yoru channel. I find it very informative and interesting. i was wondering if you sew all of yoru kimono or if you buy them. Being a north american woman (canadian to be more precise) buy a kimono that actually fits me is REALLY difficult as i am bigger and taller then most japanese woman. i was wondering if you have places you know that has kimono for us bigger people. thank you.

@carmenm.4091 2 года назад

French seams are called English seams in the Netherlands 😄 What are they called in Germany? Love what you do by the way.

@DK_SLOTH2020 11 месяцев назад

Man I wish I had that I think my Japanese school when we served lunch we had something similar like that I wish I stole one of those I’m sad. when I take my grandmothers old kimono maybe I can make one but I don’t know where I would got the pattern

@AddriBlack 3 года назад

Hm, I wonder if the bits on the ends of the legs of the mompe aren't also for reinforcement? Washing them makes sense too but also the hems of legs seem like they'd wear down faster, so it would make sense if they were meant to prolong just how long the mompe are a wearable garment.

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

The book has like zero explanations, so it could also be for enforcement… 🤔 it makes way more sense.

@renee-claudetanguay9738 3 месяца назад

Another great video. What did you have on your head when you were working in the garden?

@alexkoi2422 3 года назад

Hello i love your videos 🥰 i was curious is you had any jinbeis or was going to make any? I am hoping to make one with some beautiful fabric i got so it would be really fun to see you in some too! Keep up your amazing videos, they really help 🥰

@Gandellion 3 года назад

Hi Billy, I have a couple of questions about you and your life but I’m worried they’re going to sound really rude! I’m just really interested how you came to the life you’re now living!

@lesliehobson3196 3 года назад

👏👏👏Great work! Not easy doing all that handsewing! Both pieces look quite nice. I love your hedgehog; he is a cutie! How old is he?☺

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Thank you! He just turned 2 🦔💜

@wendywhite2642 3 года назад

I've never seen a pattern book like that! It looks like something you would have created with your own hands, if you were a really pretty good artist! Did you create that? I love how clear it is, how I can really visualize how to make that thing just from those pictures. I'm new to your channel, so forgive me for not knowing if this is a concept you introduced long ago or this is some precious educational book familiar to your audience. I'm listening with great interest :-)

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

The book is vintage from 1950. Most kimono sewing books have those illustrations to make clear where to cut. They’re super easy to work with 😊

@olggbot 3 года назад

Thank you so much for making all of these very helpful and interesting videos! I have a question (or two actually): 1. i've found and downloaded a pattern for a haori and will make an attempt at sewing it with the help of your previous videos, but i'm not entirely sure how to go about making the inner layer, as my patterns don't have any info on it, and the haori you've made is one-layer summer one. Should i cut out the same sort of pieces as the outer part, or should it be a different piece entirely? and 2. would you be willing to make a video tutorial on men's haori in the future? asking in case i fail badly at it...

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

1. Lining is not so easy in kimono sewing. I’m not so sure if I can help you in a super comment 😰 2. You know, that video was planned and then COVID hit and all my sewing classes were canceled. I eventually had to order the haori for my husband. As soon as I can go back to sewing school, I hope I can tackle some more make items 🙈

@olggbot 3 года назад

@@BillyMatsunaga thank you for the reply! i'll wait patiently for your future videos then. Have a great day!

@madisonrumler551 3 года назад

Hello! I love your videos they are very helpful and informative for someone living in the US trying to learn more and create. I have a question though. In a previous video you mentioned that kimono silk is sensitive to light and can fade. Is this the same for nagajuban? Should I store it in a dark area as well? My question is a little late, but hopefully you can help.

@tyronedehay4948 2 года назад

Do you have a suggestion for a men's kappougi?

@connormelton1635 3 года назад

So for men, did you normally just wear momohiki and lift the kimono up? I always see working men in ukiyo-e depicted with momohiki and with their kimono hems tucked into their obi, but it seems as if this method of wearing is non-existent today, and people who wear wafuku choose happi with momohiki or samue. Just curious if the former method was a thing or not...

@sierralarars Год назад

What size did you make the smaller gusset? I’ve rewatched the video several times and I can’t see a measurement for it. I’d love to make a pair myself but that missing measurement is stumping me! EDIT: For future folks searching. The smaller gusset is a right angle triangle that’s 36cm x 36cm x 50.9cm. I got confused because Billy’s small gusset is shown as a square when she sews it.

@Bedizenin 5 месяцев назад

how do we know how large to cut the front gusset piece? I'm so confused

@Kaeru_Kid 9 месяцев назад

For the mompe and these pants, do you have to wear the kimono dress underneath? Can it just be pants? I hope my question makes sense lol

@kennethstensrud669 3 года назад

Hello Billy. First of all, a nice video, again 😊, and I have a question: I have a roll of very nice kimono slik that is about 12 meters long, and I are considering sewing myself a kimono of it. I'm 183 cm tall. Do you think that it will be enough material for a full kimono for me or should it just be a haori?

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

When it’s about 12m long it’s a juban bolt and not meant to be a kimono. You should make yourself a nice juban 😊

@aleksandras8149 2 года назад

Hi 👋 Can you tell me the title and author of the book with kappougi pattern?

@guadelot 2 месяца назад

Tip for dying. Buy chinesse ink, yes i know.. get alcohol 96-98% and in a designated dish or so add just 1/2 drop of ink or less. If too dark add more alcohol and viceversa. 👍👍👍

@guadelot 2 месяца назад

Ah remember than the fabric is dried Will have a different colour so I try on small pieces 1st and blowdry so I can see the "Real" colour

@EvieSaunders-q9h 8 дней назад

What's the name of the book your using to see this

@kslade3320 3 года назад

Awesome! I can’t get past THE EARRING, though.

@jenianydots 3 года назад

What is the book you are using, please?

@ardellewachter1649 3 года назад

What is the name of the book you are using for the pattern ?

@tompahdea9263 2 года назад

What is the citation for your book? Thank you.

@kdixie67 3 года назад

Is that weird box leg supposed to be a box pleat? Maybe....

@anncortez4056 3 года назад

How do you make a fabric Obi homemade

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

I’ve a tutorial for that on my patreon page. Make sure to check that out.

@anncortez4056 3 года назад

nagoya obi

@TealCheetah 3 года назад

What is the title of the book you're using? :)

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

It’s called “Wafuku saihō seikai zenshū (和作裁縫精解全集)”

@planetsingatorade 3 года назад

Can we get the link to the hanna cafe IG?

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Thanks for the reminder! instagram.com/hanacafe_online?

@alvinleong269 2 года назад

Do you make Japanese clothing for men too?

@BillyMatsunaga 2 года назад

Hope this video answers your question: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-psLLyT1Pd1o.html

@PortgasDFrisk 3 года назад

Can I make a Mompe to wear outside? Or is it disrespectful?

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

That’s not disrespectful at all!! Go ahead 💜

@naomiatmi6390 3 года назад

Slipknot rulezzzzz

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Yaaaaassss!!!

@originalkingdomhearts 3 года назад

By any chance is that a hamster wheel you were washing? Do you own one?

@BillyMatsunaga 3 года назад

Hedgehog wheel! 🦔❤️

@originalkingdomhearts 3 года назад

@@BillyMatsunaga I ask because it looks like a mesh wheel. If you are using that for a hamster I would recomend upgrading to one that is made out of a solid surface like plastic or wood. Silent spinners are really good. The holes in the mess/wires can cause bubble foot and is very painful for them. Also make sure their back isn't curved when they run if it does they need a bigger wheel.