Wow, I don’t remember them every looking that good, little brother! Can I have them back now? Beautiful job and a tribute to Dad! He would be proud knowing the history of those clubs.
@@BradMeehan started off with ladies. Jessie valentine ( Dunlop) blades.. moved onto Maxfli Australian blades MP30. Several years later Callaway Razr XF.. lovely idiot clubs, made for an idiot !!
Those look gorgeous, fantastic work! I have a set of these that my dad gave to me as well and I just started playing them again after taking a decade and a half long hiatus from golf.
Man, I remember seeing these advertised in golf mags back in the day and loved the look. Maybe there’s still time to pick up a set as a restoration project.
After hearing about the history of these clubs, I've decided to go ahead and restore my dad's 1996 Mizunos which my mother gifted him. I'm fortunate to still have him around so it'll be a great father's day gift. I'll be sure to keep referring to your videos for this, I can imagine myself screwing up the electroplating haha!
This will be an amazing gift! I'd recommend getting a used forged iron from a thrift store or a few pieces of copper pipe from the hardware store to practice on. Cleanliness and prep are key to successful plating! Please reach out with questions: Brad @ BradMeehan . Com
That looks awesome. I bet your dad would be proud of you bringing these clubs back to their former glory. Thanks for the video and best of luck with the rest of the set.
Several times during this I smiled in admiration of your skill and results. What a GREAT tribute to your father .I wish I still had my dad's clubs. Say, do you have any internships available?
Thanks! I'm just a dude in my basement shop screwing around, sipping a beer, learning new stuff, and messing with clubs that I think look cool. I will make all the tutorials you need to be successful here. It's really easy stuff. Let me know what things you're interested in and i will make a video. DIY!
@@BradMeehan I'd like to see something on removing the dinks and knocks - bag chatter - that happen to forged irons after a while. Is it necessary to fill all those marks or can they be removed on a grinder?
I just recently picked up a set of these. I played them in high school and want to refinish the set. So you have a suggestion on pin removal? I tried removing one with the smallest punch I have and it bent the punch!
That's strange. Mine didn't have a pin. You may have to drill it out on both sides. You'll only need to go as deep as the hosel wall, and it will come out. Check out my club head removal video too.
Do you do this as a business? I have a set of these that my grandfather gave me in 1996 or 1997 when I was big enough for full size clubs. I almost sold them recently, and couldn't go through with it. Oddly sentimental. I'd love to see them restored like this.
It's just a hobby for me. There are a lot of tutorials to follow if you'd like to try this at home. If not, I'd still hang onto them and play a round with them in honor of your grandfather.
Brad, really like the videos and am going to polish up an old set of Wilson 3000's. I haven't noticed what you do for the face of the clubs as far as the polishing wheel? Do you polish the faces, and which compound/ wheel combination do you use?
I do, but I'm just OCD about the final output. I want the face to look uniform when I blast it with the sand blaster. You don't have to, but I'm a freak.
Would you provide links to all the equipment you used to restore this? Also, perhaps a detailed look at each part of the process, how to best go about using the deburring wheel, stuff you applied to the other wheels etc.?
Hey Brad, how do you know when to dip the clubs in miurotic acid before sanding vs not doing it. I ask because I have a set of 1999 Hogan apex blades that I want to restore and am wondering if I need an acid bath or not.
Hey Brad, any tips on getting out heavy bag chatter? Would the amount of sanding take away too much material and possibly change the shape/performance of the sole?
Hi Dan. Check out my video where I fill in the heavy chatter and scratches with copper. I think the thumbnail says "Easy Fix". That may be a good option to avoid sanding it all together. My Mizuno turned out great. Let me know your thoughts.
Hey Brad, amazing videos I have learned so much from your content. For the polishing compounds, can you explain why you used green on the Cotten wheel for what is most likely carbon steel? I have read a couple places that green is for stainless steel and other steels should be finished with blue compound? If you have any tips on the best compounds that work for you for both stainless and carbon steel that would be amazing! Thanks
You're correct. The chart for steel says to finish with the blue, but the green REALLY makes the shine come out. Most of the clubs still have some nickel on them since I'm only removing the chrome layer to polish, so it's a mix of bare steel and nickel that I'm working with. Maybe I'll do a side by side comparison video?
@@BradMeehan thanks for the info Brad, that makes sense! I know different compound kits on Amazon can be inconsistent but would you say that black on the sisal and then brown/white on the denim and then green on the cotton wheel would obtain some pretty solid polishing results?
@@rileydyment2766 oh yeah. Just take your time and don't be in a huge hurry to move to the next step. Most of the time is spent sanding, then sisal wheel. The brown, white, green will really make them brilliant that you'll wonder why you need to plate them at all. But a few days unprotected and you'll see oxidation start, even if you use a corrosion inhibitor. I try to polish the same day I I'm going to plate. Maybe 30 minutes polishing, 2 or 3 hours sitting in the tank.
A couple questions, if I may: In the electro cleaning step there was an anode in the solution. What material was that? Also, you showed the bag containing the wand for the nickel activator. Is the wand nickel is it to be used with nickel. I have a wand purchased from Amazon via your link. Will this suffice?
Hi, Craig. Yes, if you dip it (versus brush it), the anode is a stainless anode. When you brush nickel, use the nickel tip on the nickel. If you brush the electrocleaner, then use the stainless tip. I'll make a more in depth video for every step so we can make sure you're successful at this. I realize I breeze through some of them. In the meantime, keep reaching out with questions.
It's aluminum oxide. There's a link in the description to a similar product. My compressor is very small, so if you're going to buy one, I'd buy the biggest compressor you can afford. It takes about 90 psi max for the gun i use, but at that pressure, my tank gets depleted fairly quickly and the compressor has to run to keep up. Go big.
Will a deburring wheel remove the chrome finish? I have these exact irons and just need to remove minor scratches. I have a bench grinder with a sisal, deburring & cloth wheel. Will just using compounds get all the scratches out and put that shine back on them? Thanks
It'd eventually take the chrome off, but I'd be hard to know when it's all off. You'd be better doing the removal step or the nickel won't plate. You could skip the plating but you'll have to stay on top of the corrosion by wiping them with s corrosion inhibitor like wd40, but you make have bare spots of steel where there were nicks that will rust.
@@BradMeehan so safe bet would just buff out by hand with some steel wool then hit it with compound black, green, blue. That way I could guarantee in not removing the chrome finish. I do t want them brand new, mirror finish just really nice
@@mptemplin Yes, that's the safest. You could even skip the steel wool and sisal wheel and just use the compounds to make it shiny. It won't take out the chatter because the chrome is so durable but they'll look good.
@@mptemplin I've been using a dilute acid bath for ther rust. Vinegar will work too, just slower. It also helps with removing the chrome so if that's not what you want to do, I'd avoid the acids.
It's called Electro Cleaning. You can either use the brush method, or bath method. In the video, I did the bath method by connecting the positive side of the power supply to a stainless anode and the negative to the club (it's connected to the hook, which is touching the club). The electro-cleaner removes solvents, oils, etc that is embedded in the pores of the metal so the plating adheres better. You set the power supply to approximately 10 volts and leave it in there for 30 seconds or so.
I have and play these. I think that’s a great price if you need a set of irons. I’m not sure how experiences you are with golf, but these aren’t as forgiving as modern game improvement irons. These will let you know when you hit the sweet spot, and also make you very aware of when you miss. I also think that feature can make you a better ball striker if you put in the time practicing with them. Despite what marketing is trying to sell you, clubs haven’t changed much over the years other than strengthening lofts. Golf balls on the other hand have tremendously. I’d play a modern ball with vintage clubs any time but not the other way around!
