IAT sensors are all practically the same sensor with a different casing and mountings. If it fits try and adapt the sensor connector and just plug it in. THe polarity of the two cables doesn't matter. It's just a resistor in series. Good luck.
I appreciate it so much. Remember, feel free to call me if the need arises or if you have any questions. We're one of the few companies that still answers the phone. good luck to you and stay tuned for Seminar news in your area. Take care.
As far as the IAT goes, the issue is that all temperature sensors, whether IAT or ECT or even the air-conditioning Temp sensor (Ambient) operate on the principle of "Voltage Divider" network. There's another resistor inside the respective module that works in series with the resistor at the sensor. So it may seem like a dual flow of current, but it is not. We have amazon an google-play publications on it, keyword Author Mandy Concepcion. Makes sense? Good luck.
Understanding current flow - to + is a key factor in understanding why the sensor uses the same wire for signal and supply, if you think conventional you imagine two directions of flow on the same wire.
I heard befor and also saw it in another video, is that when you unplug a MAF sensor while the engine is running, if it shuts of then the sensor is working, if still running, then the sensor is bad. Does this apply also to IAT sensor? I mean, is that another way to test it? Specially if you have no multimeter?
Using a scan tool, I get the correct IAT temperature using 2 different sensors, so I don't think it's the sensor. When I unplug the sensor I get -40. I clear the code but the P0113 comes back. What else can be wrong when the IAT temp sensor is providing the computer the exact correct temperature as seen in the scan tool live data??
Hello, my mustang 2000 GT doesn't have a code in a year but since the summer temperature started to ride the car got very sluggish, lots of loss of power but in the winter runs great. Can this sensor be the problem and bit send any signals to the ECU? Seven mechanics can't find anything. Thanks for reading all this non sense
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I don't see the connection between snapped TB and temp gauge not working. What about the alternator. It doesn't make sense. One system has nothing to do with the other, unless your mechanic had no idea what he was doing and God knows what happened. I need more details.
Not running or running, but the ignition key has to be open or in the On position. THe IAT uses a 5 volt reference voltage to work, so check 5V power, ground and signal.
how is can check if my air temp sensor 4 pins. bec i think that i have high volts i have 4 wiring the first 1 getting 5.7v the 2 getting 4.7 and 3 and 4 is ground but there is one of this ground not getting anything no pos no neg . and the second one who getting 4.7v is like freezing on this nember . my problem is with coolant temp sensor showing on my dash
otakys I have ahard time understanding your post but I can almost tell you that you have an ECT and Temp-Switch combined into one. Like a Mercedes or European car. So, make sure and get the wiring diagram before you do anything. Here's a book that may help.sites.fastspring.com/autodiagnosticsandpublishing/instant/automotive_sensor_testing
I understand your concerns and your issues with insecurity, but If you could please post your problem I'll be able to help you out. It's OK I won't tell...Thank you.
a 3S engine toyota camry, a timing belt snapt then a replacement was done. but unfortunatly the temperature gauge on the dash board stoped working and the battery signal also appears on. i tested if the charging system if fault but its charging. meter reading is 14.6Volts. what could be the problem?
Ah yes it does make sense, there is a 5 volt regulator/resistor in the ECM so when you unplugg and test you get 5 volts between it and ground. Thanks :-)
