having this problem with my 19 yz450f and my 21 yz450 monster edition, I was about to do valves then came across this vid. Really saved me about 4004 in service from my mechanic for a valve adjustment.
It helps, but it’s basically a “band-aid”. Mine is too much clutch drag. Maybe a better clutch would eliminate the problem? I still have the stock clutch.
My 2019 WR450F is a pain to start in gear when cold, unless I run a really rich tune, in which case it is too easy to whisky throttle and launch off the side of the mountain or spin out on loose leaves and mud, so I run retarted timing, but it starts for crap. I just turned up the idle, boy that was complicated, figured I needed a tuner. Also just struggled with cold starting in 30 degree weather and did not know I even had a cold start button! Very useful info!!! Thanks for posting!
Ultimately I think the problem with the hard to start issue is that the clutch is not completely disengaging so, that little starter motor is trying to churn the transmission also. Higher idle has helped mine start WAY better as a “bandaid” but a Recluse clutch would be the ultimate fix.
A lot of people dont seem to acknowledge that the '15+ up WR and FX's have clutch drag from the showroom floor. Thats why they are so hard to start in gear. As the oil warms, it fades a little. But try pulling your clutch lever in, engine cold and pushing the bike. Its really hard. Apparently taking the clutch plates out, soaking in oil fixes this. Some guys said laying the bike on the ground, clutch side down. Then revving the motor while pulling the clutch lever in/out for awhile fixes it. Man, i wanted a '21 and almost bought it but that irked me so bad.
@@Rally_ADVentures The WR should be the perfect bike for me, but the new ones have that clutch drag and the suspension is better suited for desert/faster. I remember trying to putz around exploring on my FX, and it was too extreme {throttle, suspension}. I took a chance with a Kayo K6 250EFI, and glad I did. Its a tamer WR250F, 15lbs heavier and 5hp less but same or more torque. For $4999 its a great trail bike and not high strung to worry about burning miles up dual sporting occasionally. There isnt another 12:1 compression motor that Id dualsport besides the Yamaha though, such amazing durability while putting up performance.
That’s exactly what I did about 300 rpm it really helps in the technical stuff that same movement is possible on the throttle too there is a single line with a dot on the stock grip for the Wr and a double line on the throttle housing if you look when you push the fast idle button it lines the single line between the double line so if your in a rush like in a race just turn the throttle about 1/16 of an inch it dose the same thing as fast idle button.
@@stanimirgg6044 will NOT start ever and is essentially dead? Fuel level good? Are you in a cold area? Are you familiar with the cold start knob ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oWJSQdf3fjQ.html the cold start knob is basically a choke for EFI. My next thoughts are electrical. Engine stop switch or wires. Verify it’s getting spark to the spark plug. Spark plug wire secure on spark plug.
That did work well also, but on a technical trail sometimes it is not always the best option to start the bike in neutral and have to lift up my left leg to kick it into gear. It would frequently kill the engine that way as well. Adjusting the idle up has helped the starting issue immensely.
@@da7062 It can be a bit of a circus act sometimes... I have found that with the more seat time and more situations I get in like that the more comfortable I am getting in them.
Very helpful, idle speed on all FI four strokes seem critical to good performance and function. Also, on my 06 WR250f I reduced clutch drag by using mobil one 0w50 oil, used it for years, no problems
