This video is about setting the timing on a mechanical based distributor engine. I use a classic mini in this video to explain and demo how to do this work. Enjoy
From a retired public schools Industrial Arts (shop) teacher, you are an excellent teacher. I come from an automotive background, in that, my Father owned and operated an automotive repair shop for 30 plus years and yes, I ended up a 'motorhead' / hobbyist. I have a fully restored, 64 Volvo 1800S a couple of my Father's cars and others of my own. You sir "know your stuff" and relay your knowledge exceptionally well !
Always a pleasure to see your enthusiasm and share your knowledge Steve and I appreciate the effort that goes into the process of recording/editing to share with the community.Keep up the good work!
This was absolutely brilliant. I cannot tell you how much sharing your knowledge is appreciated. Because I'm learning everything on my classic mini, I will watch this video multiple times to figure out all that you have shared... thank you
Love your educational, instructional videos. I'm trying to get my old Spitfire with dual SU's tuned up and I am watching as many of your videos over and over before I attempt it. As many others have said, you're a great teacher: organized and know how to present.
I know absolutely nothing about engines. Your way of communicating concepts is excellent. I now have some understanding of the basics. It really helps when talking to my mechanic. I really enjoyed this video. Thanks mate
I just subscribed. This is the best teaching on ignition tuning I have ever seen. Thanks. BTW, you mentioned Relevant spark plug several times. I looked for them at my auto parts retailer; I saw Champion, NGK, Bosch but no Relevant. OK, just kidding. Great video.
Steve you’re fantastic. Have a Classic Mini and need all the help I can get. I have learned so much & can watch over again to make sure I understand! Bravo!
Thanks for the excellent insight - explained so clearly and effectively. It would be a privilege to have you as a father/grandfather - so much 'good old' knowledge to be passed down :) Your videos on carburetors are of very high value to me - my classic corolla is going to purr thanks to your instruction - Cheers from Perth, W.A.
I’ve know the what and how since I was about 13 years old but now I understand a lot more about the why, especially the importance of points gap. Thanks for an excellent tutorial
@@D3Sshooter you are welcome. I always thought the points gap was about making sure the gap couldn’t be bridged by a spark. I never realised it determined the dwell angle and the power achieved in the HT circuit.
After years of connecting the vacuum advance to the ported vacuum, I finally learned that the best connection is to manifold vacuum. This allows the engine to run cooler and better on the street and during lower RPM conditions. When throttle is opened, it decreases and the mechanical advance takes over. Port vacuum was used when the smog control era started in the late 60's in the US. In the old days, manifold vacuum was used. I've made this change to several cars and they always run better. You probably know all this already. Thanks again for your excellent videos, especially on Weber carburetors. I have 3 DCOE 40's on my '72 Datsun 240Z and they need proper set up and care. I've learned a lot from you.
Wow! If only Haynes explained things that clearly. I thought I knew most of this stuff but your explanations are clear and concise...great work thank you for posting these videos
Another very well done and informative video. Most people much under 50 years old will not have had much exposure to points ignitions. I probably would have shown the other end of the secondary coil connected to the negative terminal of the coil as electrically, it is and may help people with fault finding a dead coil. Also, as a couple of people have mentioned, you didn't include the condenser in your diagram or explanation. It can be a simple cause of a dead ignition system or the reason your points burn out quickly. While this type of ignition system is now considered 'old school', low tech and high maintenance compared to modern ignition systems, if you understand them, they are very reliable and easy to fix by the side of the road. Again, a very excellent tutorial as usual.
True enough in theory, but now the spares for these systems are not required or produced in quantity anymore, they are often produced in dubious places to equally dubious standards such that replacing items with new doesn’t necessarily solve a problem or only does so for a short time leading to much frustration.
All these videos on the carbs, set up and timing are fabulous and exceptionally well presented. I only have one observation, when testing the advance curve of the ignition the vacuum advance should be left DISCONNECTED, it acts independently of dynamic advance. Vacuum advance is there to increase the advance when the compression ratio in the cylinder drops ( due to the vacuum in the inlet manifold ). Under low load, partial throttle, so partially open carb butterfly valve the compression ratio in the cylinder will drop below 10:1 and pressure in the cylinder will be lower, so the fuel air molecules are not so close together and therefore the flame front travels slower. The vacuum advance takes this into account and will increase the advance beyond that of dynamic advance. This ensures a cleaner burn and a better pick up from part throttle. In racing vacuum advance is almost unnecessary, as the throttle is fully open most of the timer closed.
Excellent Video!!! I am in the process of getting 7 of my late 50's and early 60's Alfa Romeos on the road and this information is absolutely Golden!!!! Thanks
This was the best video on the parts of the ignition system and how the ignition system work. And also how to adjust it to the absolute best setting so you can get the best performance from your engine. Thank you very much for taking the time to explain this in such detail. I really enjoy it. I have an MGB that was in pieces when I purchased it and I can already see this is going to be very helpful!😀
Excellent Theoretical & Practical explanations well done very professional,I have to say that is one of the cleanest Engine Compartments I've ever seen.
Thank you for the excellent explanation, the best I've seen so far. Your video answered so many questions that I had and it's given me confidence to sort out the timing on my Morris Minor. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the lesson I always wondered what the dwell measurement was, I thought it would be complicated but it was really simple the rest of it was beautifully presented. A big thank you. Steve.
I must say that we are realy not spoiled with content of this high quality on RU-vid, especialy not hidden behind a paywall either, Both the content wich is realy professional and actualy useful as well as the videos them self genuinly hold up the highest quality on Your channel!
Thanks much. Haven’t adjusted timing, dwell, etc since I ran a muscle car in the 60’s/70’s and now bought a 75 Porsche 914 that has not been run for 10 years and this was very helpful!
What a beautifully expressed understanding of the ignition process. Thank you. I know a thing or two but...you added to my clarity of understanding and used the correct terminology in a way that I could grasp and improve my knowledge. You have bridged the gaps.Very grateful to you. Best regards. Merf
This was a great video. Very very informative and delivered in a perfect way. Thank you. More videos like this on the technical ways to tune minis please. Youve gained a subscriber.
I got to your channel by watching the videos about the webber carburators and it is what ive been looking for a long time in understanding those carbs which i didnt find anywhere else, keep up this very good and informative contents 👍👌
Great work, another fantastic and detailed tutorial, I have to be a little pedantic and say that, if an engine is set up and running properly, the fuel/air mixture doesn't explode it burns albeit aggressively. If it does explode then the engine is pinking, I remember this from my college days, it was one of my tutors pet hates if anyone said the fuel/air mix' was exploding.
really well explained video. Let me guess, you must have been a teacher before. You make me think back to my high school days. In fact, I do not think today's high school students get this information.
thanks for the comments, No teacher , but I did develop some new things ( electronics ) in the past and new methods that I had to sell to the management and lead engieers... so over time I have learned what I believe is the best approach to bring something across
Now that is 'fine tuning'. Very well explained, some of us need refresher tutorials especially when we are surrounded by electronic ignition vehicles. Fine tuning results in very good engine performance, the acceleration, power and economy are great. Glad to know 'old trusty' parts are on the way and looking forward to seeing her start.
@@D3Sshooter One of the ways I fine tune is to clean all ignition primary and secondary circuit connections and renew worn wires. I unscrew and sand down the connectors with emery paper until they shine, from the ignition switch (if its easy to get to) to the coil and distributor. The result is the coil gains more voltage and even this small gain is added to the total which in the secondary gives a much better spark. The engine will then have quick starting, better fuel economy and power. Usually commercial mechanics don't have the time to do this.
Thanks for a great video presented in a very easy-to-understand manner. I must, however, take exception to a couple of items that might be misconstrued by your viewers. 1) In the normal combustion process, the air/fuel charge burns rather than explodes. At the moment of ignition, the charge begins to burn, forming a flame front that burns outwardly from the point of ignition across the combustion chamber at a certain burn rate. This burn rate is affected by combustion chamber design, piston dome shape, and AFR along with cylinder charge filling, ambient environment, etc. If during the burn cycle, combustion temperature and/or combustion pressure exceed the fuel's ability to suppress detonation, the otherwise controlled flame front suddenly explodes, creating the "pinging" heard during detonation. As you mentioned, too much spark advance may create unnaturally high combustion temperatures and pressures that result in detonation. 2) Disregarding vacuum advance systems used for emission controls on older cars, the vacuum advance system was developed as a means to improve fuel economy at steady-state cruising speeds. For example, at 60-65mph, the typical car engine is loafing. Combustion temperatures and pressures are quite low, while AFR values are usually lean. The throttle plate (butterfly) is only partially open, creating high engine vacuum, an indication of low engine loading. Under these partial load conditions, the aforementioned flame front becomes quite lazy with its burn rate. If the best efficiency is to be obtained, the ignition timing needs to be advanced several degrees to compensate for the slow-burning charge. The vacuum advance mounted on the distributor of most older, vintage cars accomplishes this chore quite handily. The unit consists of an enclosed diaphram with two connections; a manifold vacuum (or ported vacuum) hose attached to one end, with the other end connected to the ignition advance plate by a metal rod. As engine vacuum rises in response to partial throttle, the strong vacuum signal pulls the rod via the diaphragm, advancing the ignition timing to adjust for slow fuel burn. Combined with both initial (static) and centrifugal advance, the total advance at this point may well be considerably beyond 40-45 degrees. When more power is needed, the throttle is opened and engine vacuum is correspondingly reduced. The drop in vacuum immediately removes all vacuum advance from the igntion points advance plate and returns the ignition timing to static and centrifugal alone. side note: It is important to remove the vacuum hose from the diaphragm and place a plug in the hose before setting the timing. This is particularly important if the other end is connected to the intake manifold. With no engine load and high Intake vacuum, the vacuum advance will be engaged regardless of RPM and adversely affect the outcome of the timing procedure. Once again, all of your videos are top-notch and very much appreciated. After selling my MGB thirty years ago, thanks to you I now know how the carbs work! Well done.
Wish I will have 'anything' together as masterful and calm eventually ... to watch and listen here is inspiring .. from and to any angle . Thankyou 'in advance' :)
Thanks again for this! I'll be setting up my HIF44 this weekend on my 1275 mini. I may have some questions. I've watched all your mini videos a number of times.
Great tutorial. Couple of new things I learned: That I can check & confirm my Mini's timing marks on the timing cover by looking at the clutch flywheel inspection port; That dynamic advance needs to be checked with the vacuum line attached to distributor; That I should never wear a hoodie sweater with laces dangling near moving engine part (this is the second video I've seen for timing a Mini where presenter was wearing dangling hoodie laces near the alternator & fan belt !! ;-).
Thanks for the comments, the vacuum is not really needed for the dynamic acceleration test... but I did fit , because else I will forget it. Its the bob weights that do all the work for the advance..and yes the hoodie...
@@D3Sshooter i used to have long hair in the 70's, and whilst checking timing on a v4 ford the alternator pulled some hair out, lesson learned for me 😊
Thanks for the comments, I like it because its so simple. However I will move soon to a full programmable version with IPAD bluetoot integration... that is to come soon
Hi thank you for a very interesting video, I know more now than I did before I just have to put this into practice now to see if I can get my engine to fire up after a complete rebuild. I think if I can get the static timing set then there’s a chance it should run as I have a spark at all the plugs and fuel to a professionally refurbished carb.👍👍 Take Care Stay Safe Everyone Regards Dave 🏴
