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Imagine that to prevent differential circuit breaker from constant switching off - you have to... 

Modern Ukrainian Homestead
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‪@ModernUkrainianHomestead‬
Well, all the story having a good ending is a good story.
In this specific case I was worried that probably while mounting the mirror I may have damaged the wire, as it was really close (and it's still so despite I was doing the electrical wiring myself, and have got everything photographed and documented)... However, in the end it appeared that actually the troublemaker was the water heater, or how we call them here - the boiler.
At some point some piece of current was flowing to the body of it, and the differential circuit breaker was detecting it (it can detect as little as 30mA) and immediately was going into preventive switch off... I was able to switch it back on, however, it went off again in some 15-20 minutes, and so on.
Steps I have taken to check and figure out the trouble:
1. Disconnected the water heater, connected other load, tried it for a while - no issues.
2. Connected the water heater back - immediately after some 10-25 minutes the differential circuit breaker switched off (the wire itself is designed to bear triple to water heaters load, so is the circuit breaker, both for 40A, so no issues on that side definitely).
3. Connected the water heater to another differential circuit breaker. Just used some extender to grab the power from the kitchen. Same result - the circuit breaker switched off in about 15 minutes.
4. Unscrewed and unconnected all the electrical part of the water heater, took out the heating elements, re-assembled it, and reconnected it all. Took me about 15-20 minutes to get it done. And well, no issues after that. It was running for several more hours without any issues.
Well, now the question, what possible could've been wrong on the water heater side? Since I have done literally nothing, just put it apart, and gathered it all together again, that's it.

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16 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 2   
@IAmThe_RA
@IAmThe_RA 3 месяца назад
Most likely the terminals were not properly sealed before you reassembled it, steam got inside shorted the terminals or one of terminals (N/L) and the earthed metal casing. It's better if the heater is installed outside. Plugging a heater inside a bathroom is a definite no-no, steam can get on the plug prongs or socket terminals and short them. A high wattage appliance should be hardwired, with a double pole isolator to connect or disconnect the circuit. No plugging and unplugging.
@ModernUkrainianHomestead
@ModernUkrainianHomestead 3 месяца назад
it's a "dry heating element" technology, which is absolutely fine to be used inside, and its main purpose is to be used inside (given it is IP65 class). however, truth is that this is exactly the case why you are using more sensitive differential circuit breakers for these types of "wet" rooms. and well, for me "high wattage appliance" is something that is 16A+ of current. Everything below 16A - is a standard socket-based connection. This heater is 8.7 Amps max at 230V. In wet areas however you have to use the double covers sockets though (with the cover atop, and with the small covers on the inlets themselves), which are IP 54 rated.
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