yes, true, I ended with going 1.65 m 3-blader, instead of 1.3m 5-blader. that one looks now like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-z1OqDNcNeZ4.html

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Looks Awesome good luck !

на автоматичному перемикачі ви до Load side під'єднуєте AC-input інвертора. Source A - це буде - міська мережа. Source B - це буде ваш генератор (дизель чи бензин, для критичного резерву, коли нема ні мережі, ні сонця, і коли батареї теж пусті). все навантаження будинку чи квартири ви під'єднуєте до AC output інвертора.

в мене буде EA SUN інвертор як у вас на відео синьо-білий. його AC Output підлючати до Source B? Дивіться, я хочу підлючити EA SUN але так щоб він працював лише коли нема міьскої мережі, тому що в мене 12в версія на 1,8кВт що замало для будинку. Тому я хочу підключити AC IN інвертора EA SUN до Source A (шоб інвертор брав міську мережу коли вона є і заряджав батареї), а AC OUT інвертора EA SUN до Source B - щоб коли немає світла перемикалось на живлення з батарей які підключені через інвертор. Ну і звісно вихід LOAD SIDE іде на існуючий щиток де вже всі споживачі. Тільки треба мені ще перебрати щиток щоб бойлер не живився від батарей

ага, зрозумів. тобто ваш ЕАсан ну буде як резерв. тоді так. тоді все правильно ви пишете. один мінус в цій схемі - нема можливості зробити так щоб ніхто не забув що зараз в цей момент не можна багато приладів вмикати, бо можливості інвертора не безмежні.

yes, all you say is true. however, just for a rough assumption of how much each exact inverter uses while idling - you can count on 1% of inverter's nominal power, and that would be +/- the value you will get in reality.

true. many people in my country still don't know or have not enough budget to get a bigger and a better one, so they have to have at least some option to start with. However, I see the ignorance on this topic even across my relatives - even for people who know me and see my example, they tend to not believe in what they see... but, step-by-step I'll bring this education to the masses, I have no other choice.

Copyright is not an issue here. You have to understand how China works. consider the whole country as a factory. same brands can be made on different factories without any issues, also same factory can be producing several brands, that's pretty common. there are factories that behave differently though in terms of how do they approach sales. Smaraad is shit for example. Greef and WuxiFengTeng - are the most nice ones, since they don't overexagerrate their turbines output numbers. There might be some tiny differences to the wind turbines still, not much, but tiny ones. f.e. the FT-1000L I have - has a steel hub (and I have no idea which exact factory produced it). the FT-2000L2 which I definitely got from WuxiFengTeng has a very different aluminum alloy casted hub. There also was a tiny difference in the packaging, not a lot, but still. If someone asks me where and who to buy from - go buy from Jessica form the Wuxi FengTeng factory - you will get the attitude, help, and for sure you will get a good product. Don't forget to say her hi from me (from Bogdan from Ukraine) ))

ну треба ж казати правду )

You are welcome. Please also consider the M8 wind turbine with 2.4 m dia (from the same Wuxi FengTeng factory, and don't forget to say Hi to Jessica from me). It has a slightly curved blades with a much better startup area, and it will literally start spinning at 1.5m/s with some production happening already on 2. The only things you have to think about with the M8 are: 1. lengthenign a tail slightly, +35-40 cm 2. it will not furl away from the strong gust, as no foldable tail there I am planning to get one for myself as well, just a bit later.

I have an M8 1000W. Not bad but it need some maintenace every now and then. The problem with it is than the gen has silicon on its 3 sizes and it quite messy to open it up. I prefer te FT 1000W specially cos its furly tale. I like to sleep at ease with strong wind

makes total sense

Deye manages the power form all the sources it has, including those AC-coupled. It can sell it to the grid, or cannot sell it to the grid. If the "selling first" is the working more - than it will sell, regardless of the checkbox status. If the working mode is "zero export to load/CT" - and if the checkbox is ticked - it will not allow selling power from MI input to the grid. about load - that's summer, so there is the little usage in general (18-20 kWh per 24h). in winter there will be times when 6-9 kW of load is visible (40-80 kWh per 24h for heating only).

yes, real FT-1000 is 2.5m in diameter, weight is approximately 48kg. I say approximately, since I haven't measured it exactly during unpacking. But here you may see how it was unpacked last year: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_hJwzOEBVFs.html It is literally same, but smaller than the one you've seen in this video. It goes quite strong, as you may have seen from my videos, but bear in mind that I am using a very thin wire (2.5mm2 only) and my losses on the high output side are up to 30-40%. on smaller 3-4 m/s winds, the losses are 2-4% maybe only. So if you will fix this mistake only, and give it a shorter distance to the inverter/controller and give it a cable of at least 6mm2 - you will get a much better result.

дякую. стикався. я і сам так кажу. бо в цьому дійсно є сенс. питання лише - що ідеальним буде той варіант коли турбіна на 96, а контролер має можливість перемикати режим заряду на різну напругу. одна особливість - тубіна має мати гарний стартовий профіль лопастей, бо якщо ні - буде гальмуватись трошки.

As I've mentioned in the video, the ground will also be insulated horizontally 1.2 meter aside form the foundation wall. That's how the engineering project says. It will mitigate the effect you are talking about. But thank's for a heads up, I'll definitely take a look after that, and will likely make some winter videos about it, I am really interested to see how this performs in action.

@@ModernUkrainianHomesteadnot realy the ground is cold in the winter and has a very big mas that need a lot of energy to heat. Check link foundationhandbook.ornl.gov/handbook/images/Chapter%204/4-06_no-cap.png

I understand that. But your image does not imply 1.2 meters of hotizontal soil insulation... It is not applied in the image you shared. And the project and calculations I have, explain that a1.2 meters of soil insulation has as same thermal resistance coefficient as 50mm on foam polystyrol... I mean, from the every possible angle there will be a lot of distance for cold to reach the foundation. I can't attach a screenshot here, but I hope you get me right.

No idea what your designer calculate. Until you heat 1.2m of soil the winter is over 😂. If u have a cellar underground why do you think temperaturen is around 10 C in the summer and winter?

@@blackeyes18ro please find what is the thermal resistance value of 1.2 m of soil. I mean, if on the ground it is 0 celsius - how much will it be 1.2 meters down. you will be impressed. that's the old method. old, but working. It has found it's use in the modern insulation techniques as well. I am using the effective combination of methods, at least try to.

even the default factory one will work nice even the turbine is given the stable laminar air flow - which is impossible in our standard home areas. however, in general here are the rules for the wind turbine tail: www.windynation.com/blogs/articles/sizing-your-wind-turbine-tail I plan to follow them while redoing the tail on my M3.

Great read, thank you, calculated i get about a month of perfect stable air flow, split up into hours days weeks at 40-50mph over the autum winter, then a gusty 20-45 with 40-80 2-3 times a year averagely. wished i had erected three turbines in a triangle or four in a square so when one would catchs the 45mph then the other ones would in theorie catch the 20mph resulting in a nice current charge. longer rod to the tail would slow the reaction down due to the distance it would have to travel to redirect the turbine.

yes, you can. my wind turbine grid tie inverter is a single-phase as is sent to the AC-coupling as well. moreover, you can combine them as many as you want, and combine three-phase with single phase. all you have to worry about is that the total capacity of those AC-coupled devices does not exceed Deye's transit current requirement (in my case 45A for each phase).

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Great please kindly help me. How to Install single phase to GEN port 3 phase? - I have single phase L N G - I connect L to L1. N to N. G to G. But inverter show only gen voltage no gen power to charge battery or no power to Load.

@@multidev2 are you connecting generator? or microinverter / grid tie inverter? if generator - it will not work, not possible, generator has to be 3-phase. however, there is a solution - go buy a simple cheap inverter/charger (like this one for example, 48v one: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DlT0MzR) and connect the generator to its AC input and this inverter/charger battery terminals to the same battery the Deye uses. then you can manually run the single phase generator to charge the batteries, when you see that there is lack of grid and sun and if the battery is getting drained. if you are trying to connect a single phase GridTie Inverter (wind, solar, does not matter, just has to be the grid-tie one) - just do as you said - connect L to L1 (or L2, or L3, whatever), N to N and G to G and it will work.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead I have hoymile micro inverter single phase to connect main consumer (home A load). I connect line L N G from home A to Deye 3 phase Home B. It is not work. I am thinking to direct connect LNG from micro inverter not form main consumer. Please help.

no, you don't have to connect the microinv on the Deye load side (at least it's better not to do so without a limiter). connect the microinverter to the Deye's GEN-port terminals. and set up the GEN-port to be working in MicroInv Input mode, do not forget also to set properly the on/off values. there are many video-instructions on Deye official youtube channel

as I told you - need to make the tower first, and that takes time. it will be put in action in 1.5-2 months probably

thanks! for FT-1000 it's 9m, and I will be redoing it to gain +2 m and get the folding mechanism, as currently it's about impossible to do the maintenance on the machine. for FT-2000L2 it will be 12m foldable tower, 9m aside the existing 9m tower. and in the prevailing wind direction those two will not interfere one with another. reason for those bigger heights required is that my house is 10m high and is causing turbulence.

yes and no about moving the gen out of the wind. the thing is - when the gust happens you have to keep the tail aligned with the center of tower. that thing I did not cover in this video unfortunately, but covered in my other Ukrainian channel. and since the tail is aligned with the tower center while wind is gusting - it reduces pressure on the tower greatly. but if looking on the turbine form the top - it looks like if the generator with the windwheel is moved aside (which realistically is kinda true)

likely

shiny one?

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead it's not shiny it was made from scrap 😄

shiny scrap then )) I thought the grinder polished it to the shiny state, mate.

thanks! hm, I thought it's almost always windy in the UK, otherwise how are you getting that much rain usually?

no, S3 sits quite well on the air. no such fluctuation is seen, that tiny one is perfectly balanced at the moment. for the M3 - yes definitely, I had specifically mounted it that way as it is - to show you how it behaves, and then we will compare how will it go after the tail modifications.

yes, the door was open, so yes. the wind is crazy, very gusty. kids didn't want even to go outside. inside the house there is natural silence. as I always say - if the wind is over 7 m/s - you won't want to stay outside, so don't worry about the noise, you will not hear it inside.

yes, the reason of wobble is the green bearing, I've already dismantled it and figured out what it is. the turbine should not go off the bearing, as it has locking joints, two of them, cone shape, that fixates the turbine body in a stable position. and the wobble is inside the bearing itself, since the covers were not pressed hard enough inside, which I was not aware of before, and also I have to apply little bit of better grease inside so it keeps rotating as it should. also, the tail plate is rebuilt already - will explain all that stuff in the next video.

I'm on-grid normally. and my microinverters for wind and battery (as well as the big 20kW 3-phase grid-tie string solar inverter) work perfectly in both cases - if there is grid, and if there isn't grid. once Off-grid - I use Deye's AC-coupling mode, when the grid-tie inverters are supplied to the GEN-port which works in the MicroInv input mode. In this case Deye created them a local microgrid, where they keep operating even if I am completely off-drid

no worries, everything comes in its certain time

smaller controllers seem to be just fine for the smaller turbines. they match in the capabilities, so no issues. for FT-2000L2 I plan using the grid tie inverter I currently use a smaller FT-1000 (the blue one, working in pure wind-turbine inverter mode), but with better brakes of course. and FT-1000 will get a local-made controller, which I already have for some time and in no use atm.

Thanks. Will do my best.

Will start with those I already have. Let me just finish this, it's still a long road to go.

indeed. +1 more is saving my friend right now, he is using it before his battery pack arrives. but eventually, the problem is that I need about 100 kWh of battery capacity, and I have only a quarter of that... to add up with Deye original is hell lot of money, to replace with Mason/Seplos is three times more cost effective, but still a lot of money... So, maybe I'll just use the DeiselGen to supply the extra once there will be no power.

you are welcome. I eventually ended up with fully rebuilding it, here is the result: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-z1OqDNcNeZ4.html since I found out during the tests, that 1.65m blades are the best for this generator. had just mounted it today, so quite soon will see how it behaves on the wind. and that S3 body is waiting for a new gen now again, slightly smaller one, as that one appeared too big for it ))

yes, current outages are exactly because of the preparations and technical maintenance campaign on the atomic power stations. Next week will be much better, since tomorrow they put 1 nuclear block back to work. but in a week they will stop another one for maintenance, and so on, after all of them receive proper yearly maintenance. but people had finally woken up, everybody who can - installs a hybrid inverter + batteries, and those who have a place to mount solar panels - do this. it is a nightmare, since actually all the inverters and batteries are already sold out, so are the panels, and even more - the supplies that are on the way - are also sold until October supplies... I guess, it will also help a lot in general, despite solar does not produce a lot in winter.

yes. that blue $80 controller (600wind/600solar version) is the perfect match for it. If the seller's combo price is the same - go for a bundle. however, in my case - I'd go separate, to reduce (or to completely eliminate) import taxes.

if you are asking specifically about the controller price - I bought two (you may have seen them in the other video). One was $94, the other one (exactly same) I managed to get for $76. so $80 is actually a great price.

well, the best to get it is to find it through your local dealer. or to buy directly on Alibaba.

I use Deye original ones, these specifically are Deye SE-G5.1 Pro

thanks, mate! what kind of EV do you have? are you happy with it? proc? cons? I am starting to look at that option as well I guess.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Hi ya, It is the Skoda Enyaq IV80, It Is lovely, Booming Stereo, Big Battery with great range, very big boot for wheel chairs and mobility scooters. Handles good with very little body roll for its weight, it's comfy and super easy to drive. Our first EV the MG ZS and it was a nightmare in comparison. This Skoda has converted me, not to save the plant, save the petrol for my Motorcycles lol. Oh one really bad on hinge is the Lane Assist function.... It panics and snatches at the wheel, it is far too intrusive and the option to turn it off is buried balls deep in the menu screens. Hope this helps mate. Slava Ukraini!

Glory to the heroes! Does your Skoda have any so to say levels of lane assist intrusion?

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead No unfortunately not, it is on or off. On as default Euro Nanny rules 🤬

okay, got you

No leaks possible, as there are no water transfer lines. I use ceramic heaters which are low-consumption (6kW max instant consumption for the whole house). The house itself is quite big, 300 sqm, also, the 100kWh is only for the days when it's -15-17 Celsius outside. If it's around 0 Celsicus - the consumption for heating only is roughly 55-60 kWh. Monthly heating usage was 2300 kWh so far max (in January 2024). And well, truth is that I have not finished the insulation yet, two small things are still left to be done - the bottom part of the concrete foundation is not insulated at all at the moment, I am starting on it this month though. And also on the underroof floor there are several places where I have to apply additional 200mm mineral wool insulation, that's also the next step to help with reducing the heat loss.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead I was thinking about air leaks

ah, yes, well, the ventilation is the main one... Everything else is pretty nicely sealed. If you will calculate the losses, they are great actually, given my walls and windows surfaces. 100kW per day, means 4200 kW of electric energy consumed, means, there are 4000 watts of thermal energy losses each hour (on average). And now the surface area of the windows and walls combined is 295 sqm, which results in 13.5 watts of thermal energy losses per sqm (walls and windows), and well, since the floors sqm of the house are about the same as well, it is realistically 5 times less than what is considered to be normal (80 watts of heating power for 1 sqm of room area for example).

If I do your calculation on my house that are in the Nordics then I have a heat loss of 4W sqm, so there are definitely room for improvement in your house.

let me guess - you have a heat pump? and liquid based heater-tank system then transferring heat to the radiators or to the heated floor system? correct?

Yes and no. We have a little of grid power now, and there will be almost nothing of grid power during the winter time. My observations are as follows regarding the self-cost of electricity: 1. From solar - $0.03 per 1 kWh 2. From grid we currently have $0.108 per 1 kWh 3. From wind (reality for small home wind turbines) - $0.15 per 1 kWh 4. From a diesel/petrol generator - $0.7 per 1 kWh And now consider there is no option 2, and there is very little sun, or no sun (option 1 cannot produce enough)... What is better - option 3 or 4? I will do whatever I can to reduce the usage of option 4. The winter will be tough, since currently thanks to the russians we have daily grid outage for about 8 hours per day, in winter time that outage time will be doubled... So, I am getting prepared as much as possible - adding battery capacity, adding solar capacity (2.5 kW of panels) together with the optimizers, and of course finishing my setup with the wind turbines (in the end I will have 4 kW of nominal wind power installed). Reason for this is that my DAILY winter consumption is going to be 50-120 kWh (depends on the temperature outside), since everything is on the electricity. The most consuming element is the heating.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Yes i understand you have to deal with problems that i have never had to. Any power is better when the option is none. Thank you for sharing your efforts in a difficult real world situation.

pity that such a powerful country does not do enough things to prevent and protect. I am not surprised about my country, but those serious global players with serious economics should definitely do a little bit better, otherwise I don't see the difference.

well, that was my thought as well, brick wall-up fence on the sides where there was water. it seriously helped on one side, but did not on the other one

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead it has flooded a lot of countries in europe.

yes, it is. despite some underground cables... there is no grid though, so I am on my pure autonomous mode (again).

I just saw on your other video there is a third rivet on the other side of the tail. So it would only have 2 connections if you move it down.

yes, theoretically possible. need to have a proper tool for it still

Cost? WT - 28.9 Upgrade gen - 90.3 Blades with a factory hub - 71.94 Controller - 72.34 Expected monthly production in my area 8-14 kWh. I fully understand the values and the costs, and the solar in the end is 5 times more efficient. However in winter time the wind turbine is almost as efficient as solar, and is 6 times more efficient than any fossil fuel generator (diesel, petrol)... And well, I don't have to remind you that russians have destroyed a lot of our generation capacities, so there will be very little of grid energy during the winter time. If we have constant power outages now for 4-6 hours per day, in winter that outage time will be way more.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead These are Euros prices? Is the production so low in the video because your batteries are already full? What is the expected output of the little windmill in this video?

Prices in USD. That was just a test, and there were many not properly done things, like cable too thin, tower too low and on the wind-shaded side. I'm currently in process of mounting it all correctly, check my latest video please, all the small wind turbines will gain some decent height and a proper cable too.

Expected output for the wind turbine like this (it is very similar to M3) is 8-14 kWh monthly. I claim them to be 400 real watts wind turbines. But we'll see everything in real action quite soon.

No, they don't tilt, they fold aside, since they have a foldable tail.

yes, they are for potentially up to 2.4 m diameter machines. those I have currently will be 1.65 only.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead I can give you files to 3d print 2 meter diameter turbines.

Well, I don't have a place to do that. And those printers that work now - they produce drones, so are quite busy

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead printers are not expensive anymore and there is no shortage of them, I use an elegoo neptune 3 max. I print in my kitchen. at the moment I am printing a 2 meter long blade, so its for a 4 meter diameter turbine.

@@bermudatriangle2036 I will definitely think of that option, thanks for a hint!

you are welcome

how do you resolve brakes for the wind turbine if using a solar charger? the reason - onсe the battery is full - it will just let the turbine spin in freespin and that may cause a damage

that one has to be specified and defined by a local provider, there are a lot of components to be used, here I've explained a bit about it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-h-Znc6a3Q9c.html

Right before it was mounted there was a slight disbalance in 0.1V between the highest and the lowest banks. Battery bank was working literally two weeks only, and 0.1V disbalance appeared in those two weeks. At the end of the first day after the balancer was mounted the disbalance was 0.02V, and keeps like that for the tree consecutive days now. To tell you more - ask me the same question in a year )) a couple of days is not a period to give a proper judgement, but I see the trend already and I like it so far.