Your mods are well thought out. For those interested in your carbon fiber side poles, any archery pro shop can make them for you. Its a carbon fiber arrow shaft with a pin nock insert. Great vid !
Nice ideas, and thanks for the video. FYI you don't need clips on the bathtub bungee. Simply pass the sprung toggle on the bungee through the bungee loop, lock the bungee against the toggle then pull out the slack. Then you have a quick release. As you would for poles on your rucksack. I use the same principle on optional guy lines. Have a toggle fixed to the end of the guy line, with a loop big enough to pass the toggle back through. Then you can simple pass the toggle through any attachment loop on the tent, then back through the loop in the guy and then pull to lock. The tension holds it, then it can be quick released when the load is off.
I used the mysterious loop. It was cold and windy, so I put my trekking poles on 110cm to get the rain fly closer to the ground. But then, the rain resistant 'bath tub' was flappy. So then I put some elastic through that loop and attached it to the bottom clip of my trekking pole. The tub was fixed and functional now.
A great review of the modifications for the Lanshan; for your information and for anyone interested I found a company in the US called Quest Outfitters that can supply the components to make the side poles; with shipping I paid $55 USD. The pole lengths need to be cut to length as each length is 43cm. Thanks again for the effort in doing this informative video.
I just want to say a big thanks for sharing these mods. I integrated your carbon fiber pole technique at the end of my tent where I put my head, and as a 6'4 guy it stopped the tent whipping into my face in gusty conditions - it's ingenious! I also used your bungee for the door idea and did the extra long guyline from where the walking poles are - tent seemed much more hardy this way. As a helper for anyone that might be searching for a carbon pole I managed to get one eBay - you could search 'BISON STAINLESS STEEL & CARBON FIBRE BANKSTICK' - 600mm one cost me £11 and only weight 90g - I added my own little attachment to it to make the guyline wrap around it. Thanks again!
One of the most useful backpacking tent improvisation videos I have seen so far. I have just ordered one of these tents and will be employing your ideas.
Exceptionally good video and so well presented. All the things the tent manufacturers don't think of. Or hope we don't notice the shortcomings with the design. Thank you so much for your tips, especially the long guy line concept. Brilliant.
It’s a great tent 🙂 Check out my video on how to pitch it; Lanshan Tents; Tips and tricks for a perfect pitch! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Pt-QUHMw2v0.html
Really great video with genuinely useful information. Did a couple of your mods on my Lanshan before taking it out for three days and they worked an absolute treat. Thank you for sharing this stuff, you're a star.
What an amazingly helpful video full of great ideas and simple explanation of 'how to'. I've just ordered my Lanshan 2 and bungee cord to make some of your great alterations for it when it arrives! Thanks for your help :)
Thanks! It really does mean a lot to me to know that the video was helpful for you 🙂 Check out my video on how to pitch your Lanshan: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Pt-QUHMw2v0.htmlsi=sNLxU3Qph5NoLBym
I've utilised a few of these mods. much appreciated! I was out in pretty heavy wind last week and the Lanny held up well! although an absolute pain to get up!
I’m glad the mods worked for you 🙂 If you’re having trouble with pitching, then there’s some suggestions here: Lanshan Tents; Tips and tricks for a perfect pitch! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Pt-QUHMw2v0.html
Great video! Just got back from a trip where it turned from thunder storms to ice, it was wet but beautiful! Definitely taking some tips from your video to add to my tent! Safe travels!! Subscribed 😁
By a country mile, the best L2 mods vid I've seen, well done. I used mine for the Pennine Way in 2021 and adopted, en route, quite a few of the same mods. One of yours I particularly like, which I'm going to add, is the footprint & bathtub/inner combo. Making it removable, with the addition of a small karabiner, is genius! Many thanks for your efforts.
Aw, thanks!! It’s great to be able to pack away the inner first. I’ve also used the outer & footprint on their own as a quick lunch break shelter in bad weather. Hope it works well for you :)
wow! these mods have changed my view of this tent. I have an akto, but at 68 3/4 years, I have to admit more volume and headroom are actually becoming a necessity. definite subscription, Thanks.
Thanks; I'm glad that it helped :-) The Akto is a fantastic tent, and a great place to be in bad weather, but the Lanshan 2 has a lot more interior space, is considerably cheaper, and a bit lighter. I've used mine in windy winter conditions and it has performed very well, especially with my mods. Regards, from a 61 2/3 year old
@@longsufferinghiker on a really geeky level, I position/turn my pegs so the guyline loop fits into the upper groove of the peg - seems to help in the guy not slipping off the top of the peg. even the factory akto instructions dont advise on this point. (I did let them know and they were appreciative of my feedback)
That’s a surprisingly contentious topic. From one geek to another… If the pegs are V profile then the guyline notches will hold better if the V is facing towards the tent. But having the pegs facing that way will mean that they have less purchase in the ground. I recall someone doing a back to back test on this topic and the results were conclusive.
Thanks for a great vlog Charles. Clear, informative and to the point. I only got into wild camping last year, and have a Lanshan 2 with 3S inner. Only been out 5 nights in it, but I can appreciate the points you make, and look forward to making some of the mods that you've shown here. Thanks, and BTW your Cape Wrath Trail vlog series was great, I hope someday to do that... ATB from Ireland George
Glad you liked it; you've made a good choice with the tent, and I hope that the mods work for you :-) I thoroughly recommend the Cape Wrath Trail, but it's a tough one, so lots of experience on shorter trails, and plenty of training, will make all the difference. Have fun with the Lanshan!!
Without doubt the best video I've seen on lanshan mods and I've watched a lot. Yes, some ideas I've seen before, but there are a few nifty new ideas in there too and those 'wow so obvious why didn't I think of that' ones. Haha, the clothes pegs, used them, done it wore the t shirt. Simplicityis the name of the game. The other loops and bungess to wrap the guy lines and tie back the door, simple and great. We'll paced, easy listen to and worth time. Thanks 🙂
Wow, thanks! I'm really pleased that you found it useful, and I appreciate you letting me know; it really makes all the difference for me to know that I've been helpful :-)
The material ‘grip clips’ at the bottom of the head and foot end of the can be made by simply cutting off the threaded end of a plastic milk container, and screwing on the lid of said container whilst locating the short, threaded portion of the container neck whilst sandwiching the tent material between the two parts; the lid should have previously had a couple of small holes made in the top face, so a piece of bungee or a cable tie can be threaded through, to which one may attach the bungee cord that gets pegged out or attached to the base of your short tie out poles.
@@longsufferinghikerhave fun with it, you can have any colour you can find, those who are lactose intolerant may prefer orange or grapefruit juice screw top lids, lol!
Great mods well done I have the footprint and outer and inner connected with an O ring so the tent goes up as one Guyed out the top loops as extra stability if the weather is poor, attached if needed by a carabiner
Excellent. If the inner, outer, and footprint are connected together with a carabiner then the inner can be packed away separately. I’ve found this extremely useful in adverse conditions, or when there’s a lot of condensation on the outer.
Great vid. Thankyou. I’m looking at a lightweight 4 season tent with a porch. With a 3 season inner for warmer weather I think this is a winner. Love your mods. Will defo follow if I do get one. The loop on the inside maybe for a lantern/torch. Suppose any tent can be modified.
Thanks for the great information and ideas. Your video is excellent. Regarding the mystery tab at the bottom of the tent: I use it as a tab to hold when zipping /unzipping the door because the tension is not always enough for a one-handed pull. Seemed like a natural and convenient place to grab hold of. I like the idea of the carbon rods so I picked up some carbo shaft archery arrows anf use the nock to string the guy line. Easy, cheap, and readily available. Aluminum shafts would work just fine.
@longsufferinghiker thanks for the reply. Can you confirm if the lanshan 2 with the inner wall has much condensation, I know every tent will, but torn between the 2 pro or trying my luck with the 2 and these mods. Many thanks
for UK conditions I would always opt for the standard Lanshan 2 in preference to the Pro version. As you say, condensation is inevitable and the Pro will always have damp insides. I do get a little condensation on the inner in still & damp conditions, but nothing like as much as on the outer. I’ve heard of people resorting to using bivvy bags inside the Pro, which defeats the purpose of the weight saving. So for staying dryer (and warmer) the standard version seems best to me. Good luck!
Great video with some good ideas for other tents. One thing I would consider is the use of the little metal Karabina, I stopped using them on tents as they can be sharp and wear the fly when packed after constant use. Now use plastic connectors. Another great video
That's a very good point, thanks! I'm already concerned that the metal Karabiners aren't very durable, so I'll look at using plastic clips instead. Any suggestions?
The loop along the ridge line on the inside of the tent is for hanging a small lantern or a headlamp. You could also use it for drying out small items such as socks or a travel towel.
Really nicely done! Some great ideas I haven't seen before. On mine I'd left the guy configuration much as was but just added a line to each of the end apex tabs, bungee to one side of a door for ease of exit rather than using the annoying hook it comes with (what were they thinking?!) and a washing line inside. I'm quite interested in your footprint/inner stake-out mod though as I don't think they match well out of the box. Love the tent and your guide to setup will be very useful next time I use it!
I think the loop in the inner tent is to hang a light, if there is a loop at both ends it’s to hang a line, I have sewn a guy loop in the door panels on the bottom to stop the flapping and give it extra strength.
Thanks great vid. Have got some of those mods on my Lanshan and now have some more options. Whilst hiking in early May last year I was still a little chilly from the draughts even when pitching low. The inner was very low to the ground meaning the bathtub had no sides and was hanging loose. I tied a small length of 2mm bungee to the lower zipper and hooked this onto the lower walking pole height adjuster to (gently (take up the slack in the inner, raising the bathtub walls and just brought the upper zipper down to meet. That improved matters and so did stacking all my gear on the windward side to make a windbreak. Perhaps I am just a wuss when it comes to getting cold though.
I don’t think anyone enjoys a draughty tent, especially at this time of year! Do you have the 3 season inner! I find that the 4 season inner gives more protection.
Interesting mods. For the corners of the bathtub, I was just going to use shockcord to attach them to the adjustable ropes that the fly uses, so when I tighten up the fly corners the bathtub gets tightened at the same time. Which you kind of do but adding a carabiner. I guess it's not so permanent on your system because you may take down the inner separately!
Yes, exactly. 🙂 In rainy conditions I often pack away the inner first; it helps to keep it dry. Similarly, being able to pitch just the outer & footprint is often very handy. .
I just got my lanshan 2 and set it up for the first time. It is definitely fiddly, but I expected a trekking pole to be a bit fiddly. I plan to practice pitching it before I go on trail, obviously, but now I am excited to ponder some of your modifications. My first pitch is a bit saggy. But I haven’t yet gotten the side guy lines out.
There’s a knack to the pitching, so you’re wise to test it out at home first! If you haven’t already? Check out my pitching suggestions; Lanshan 2 Tents; Tips and tricks for a perfect pitch! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Pt-QUHMw2v0.html
Aw, thanks! For the bottom of the doors I used 3mm bungee. For the inner tensioner I use 2mm bungee. I hope that some of the modifications will work out well for you!
Great video, I’ve made some mods to my lanshan, my door tie back has been changed to an elastic loop and I’ve added an elastic loop to the second poll/bathtub point which keep the pathtub nice and high, I have kept the main guy setup but use a clip attached to webbing then guy (little like backpack closure) instead of rams head, also just added an extra 2 guys front and back attacked to top loop to add stability as going cape wrath na t year and want added security, last of all I’ve used silent to seam seal, I know it’s taped but better safe than wet,
Good modifications 🙂 I used the Lanshan 2 on the Cape Wrath Trail this year (see vid) and it performed perfectly; it’s the perfect tent for the Trail IMHO. Good luck!
@@longsufferinghiker thank u, it is my fitness more than equipment that might let me down, used it for 5 days on cumbria way, and had slight mishap with pole, but was my fault not the tent, I watched ur Cape wrath video, enjoyed it👍
Awesome stuff here thanks, great mods. The question by the doors and trekking pole #1 I would think it’s either as you said just to go around the pole, but maybe can attach a chord to the loop to take the line up to the top of the trekking pole to stop bathtub slipping downward? Adding a tension loop (like corner bathtub mod) that would lift and hold bathtub up after standing on it on entry etc?
Try some bungee loops on your side panel guylines where they attach to the tent. If you get a big gust it's will help stop the strain on the stitching of that guy loop
The best and most thought out mods for the L2 on the web! I’d be pushing my luck messing with the stitching on the inner…the rest I could have a go at. You didn’t mention the mod that looks like a circular clamp adds an extra pegging point at each end. Does it damage the material? Great vid again Charles.
Those clips are really useful way of adding attachment points without damaging the fabric (apart from a little stretching). Available here; ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/grip-clips/
Hi, just bought the new lanshan 2 and used your modifications and I’m very happy the new inner how has double doors T shaped the little loop that you were curious about has been taken away unfortunately with both doors open the bath tub falls all the way down, so the loop would now be handy to fit to the pole but no big problem to fix.
Well, I guess it's good news that you have the inverted T doors - most people seem to prefer them. Perhaps try putting more tension in the corners of the bathtub, to reduce the amount of sagging?
Amazing Mods! Like the idea of the side poles want is a good size and do you have to counter for them sinking into the ground got some old tents poles that i will ciut to the length looking forward in trying the mods out thanks again Dave from Labrador!
Thanks Dave! No, there’s no issue with the side poles sinking into soft ground; the downward thrust is very small. BUT before you go into the idea further I suggest waiting a few days; I’m working on a different and lighter solution, using dyneema. You can expect an updated mods video coming soon!!
I have seen another mod to the tent! Above the loop, at the center base of the bath tube, there is another loop. If you attach another length of shock cord to this loop you can attach the other end to the walking pole, at an appropriate height, to keep the bathtub upright. This will help to keep the moisture from ingressing from the ground or from under the edge of the tent door.
That is the best lanshan modification video I have seen (I've watched quite a few), great ideas, thanks for sharing. I've only used mine once, had issues with inner touching outer at ridge. Any ideas on that issue? Would appreciate advice. Thanks
Aw, thanks!! The problem with the inner touching the outer at the ridge is quite a common one, but it's easily corrected :-) In fact, rather conveniently, I've addressed it specifically in my other video about the Lanshan, covering tips & tricks for pitching it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Pt-QUHMw2v0.html at 20:18 Hope that helps; let me know how you get on
That's a very fair question. I guess I should have included it in the video, so I'll add it to the description :-) The factory quoted trail weight of the 4 season standard tent is 1220g + 4 season inner (25g) + footprint (150g) = 1395g After adding the mods, 2 Delta pegs (48g each), better pegs, extra stuffsac, spare guyline, side poles (30g each) mine totals... drum roll... 1764g (369g extra) Still a great weight for a spacious 4 season tent, and incredibly good value!
I just came across your videos. I love the modification to reduce the slack of the inner tent. Would you please explain how you did it? Or possibly do an instructional video? Did you just cut a small slit and feed the shock cord through?
I'm not a sewing expert, but I can just tell you what I did, which seems to have worked just fine, and I'm very pleased with the results: 1. I cut small slits in the tube (being careful not to cut the stitching) with a very sharp small craft knife/scalpel blade. The top cut was just below the pull-out attachment point, and the bottom slit was just above the joint with the bathtub/floor. 2. I sealed around the slits with a small amount of glue in order to prevent the fabric from fraying. 3. I used bungee that is around 2mm diameter; anything larger won't fit inside the tube. I heated the first few centimeters of the bungee with a flame (carefully) to make it slightly stiffer and hence easier to slide inside the tube, and then trimmed off the end with a sharp knife so that it was tidy and wouldn't snag the inside of the tube. 4. I slid the bungee inside one slit, along inside the tube, and out of the other slit, put on the cord grips, and trimmed the length so that the bungee when 'relaxed' was the same length as the seam. 5. I stood back and admired my handiwork with smug pride ;-) Hope this helps!!
@@longsufferinghiker thank you very much. This is the best modification I’ve seen. I hate the slack that I have with my 4 season inner and this is a brilliant mod that will solve the problem perfectly.
Really good video! Could you clarify the side pole design a bit. Is there a flat tip on the ground end, or do you have a spike to drive the stick to the ground? I'm looking for options and it's difficult to find carbon pole with a spike at the other end.
Thanks! My side poles do have a small spike on the end; this helps to keep them in place. The best suggestion that I've had so far is to use carbon shaft archery arrows, with a 'pin nock insert', that way you'll have a spike at one end, and a notch at the other for the guyline. Apparently any archery shop can help with this, but I'd be interested to know how you get on.
Hi charles, great videos. Keep them coming. Quick question on the Lanshan. Did you add extra sean sealant to it yourself. Ive heard of some leaks in them despite claiming to be fully sealed from factory?
Hi Gareth. Glad you like the video! I seam sealed all of the seams myself when I got the tent. I know that it might not be needed, but it was a 'belt & braces' approach. I used Silnet diluted with white spirits, and did all of the stitching on the flysheet, including guyline attachment points. It was a 30 minute job, but it took a lot of care to avoid drips! :-)
@Long suffering Brilliant thanks Charles, i wasnt sure as ive heard mixed reviews of its waterproofing. Im taking it on the TMB in July and deffinatly dont want to get caught out in the alps 😬. Really appreciate the advise.
Thanks! I think that you’ll be best off putting the mod in every corner. I find that way I can adjust the inner according to uneven ground, and it allows me to have the poles set at different heights too.
Thanks. This was very helpful, especially how you attached the footprint to the bathtub and the line attachment at the top front. Re Q1 - I have seen someone attach a lightweight bungee or simply paracord to the front bathtub loop and loop it over the top of the trekking pole to keep the lip of the tub elevated. I’m really curious how you managed to thread a bungee thru the side seam. Was there a specific tool you used?
I took a deep breath, then used a very sharp craft knife to make an incision in the fabric about 4mm wide. I sealed around the incision with a dab of glue to prevent the fabric from fraying. It was surprisingly easy to thread the bungee along inside the seam, but I did heat the first 30mm to stiffen it slightly to make it easier to push along. I have since tried using 1.5mm Dyneema instead, but it was too small and too smooth, so the cord grips couldn't hold it, so I thing something like 2.5mm bungee is best. Hope this helps; good luck!
Thanks!! Yes, it’s worth doing the inner tension mod on each corner; it’s good to be able to adjust the tension all round, especially on uneven ground 🙂
Thank you for the video, your mod suggestions are very much appreciated. Where can I find the O rings used on the main guys? I'm considering using stainless rings.
Thanks 🙂 I can’t recall where the rings came from; they were in the vast collection of junk that is filling up my garage. But TBH I’m not sure that the ‘O’ rings are necessary. On my Lanshan 1 I just looped the guyline behind the top loop and it seems to work just fine!
Thanks mate. The plastic rings were just some that I had lying around, but TBH I don’t think they are really necessary. Dyneema is tough stuff, so it’s ok to just loop the guyline around behind the loop that’s attached to the tent.
Now that was the best by far video I've seen. Thank you. Question, I have Pro 2, 3 season, and I'm always cold. Considering Pro 2, 4 season. Thinking Pro is better than the standard, but your standard looks great. If you lost yours and needed to replace would you go for standard again or Pro, and why. Thanks again.
That's a good question! The pro/non-Pro is a very personal choice and everyone has their own preference. I'm a bit 'old school' and I do my camping in the UK all year round, so avoiding getting damp from condensation is a significant factor for me. So I personally prefer a double-skinned shelter that allows me to keep the inner dry at all times. If I went for the Pro then the 3-season version would be best because I would want the maximum ventilation of the mesh walls to reduce condensation. But this will naturally be drafty and so I'm not surprised that you get cold. The fabric in the Pro is 2-sided silicone, rather than the silicone treated nylon ripstop in the Standard, and so the Pro is theoretically stronger. Also, the pro weighs slightly less (910g v.1060g) but personally, I don't think that these differences are significant enough to make the Pro the better option for the UK. Whichever version you opt for, I think that the Lanshan is incredibly good value!
Some clever mods there Charles! Done a few mods to my own L! and L2 to drop the fly height in windy conditions, tbh I have reversed or just evolved a few, including the removal of metal carabiners. Question - did you weigh before and after the mods? I'd be interested to know as this would technically be considered a 'con' to the mods (if you know what I mean, lol). Considered the L2 pro simply for the strength factor, as the weight saving is minimal and there are added peg out points where I believe they are much needed (e.g. the centre of the side panels at the the base). Congrats on the CWT| - loved the vid and gonna catch up on your others... atb Sinco
Thanks!! As for the weight...; The factory quoted trail weight of the 4-season standard tent is 1220g + 4-season inner (25g) + footprint (150g) = 1395g, but I think this may be a bit optimistic ;-) After adding the mods; better pegs, extra stuff sac, spare guyline, side poles (30g each) and 2 Delta pegs (48g each), mine totals... drum roll... 1764g (369g extra). Recently I've started to use the Titan Ground Anchors instead of the Deltas, saving 40g. Personally I don't fancy the idea of the pro version because of the condensation issues. I much prefer a 2 skin tent, and I don't think the stronger material is worth it. You might see that I've added peg out points at the centre of the side panels, using these clips, which are are really useful way of adding attachment points without damaging the fabric (apart from a little stretching). Available here; ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/grip-clips/
Hi. I'm embarrassed to say that I just found them in a box of bits & pieces, so not much help. But... I've been exploring the modifications and I think that the ring isn't really necessary. It does help the guyline to run smoothly and prevent abrasion, but Dyneema/Paracord cord is extremely smooth and durable, so I've done without the ring on my Lanshan 1 and just looped the guyline through the short loop connecting the apex & the ventilation flap :-)
Your mods seem really great. Just bought this tent for a long pilgrimage walk in spring. I am the antithesis of a do-it-yourselfer, so I have a couple of quick questions: What kind of guy lines should I buy? (If yo bought it on amazon a link would be helpful. Also, the bungee cord: pre cut? mm diameter? I think that's all! Cheers.
No worries; I'm happy to help with specific details :-) The best (strongest) guylines are made of Dyneema. It's tough stuff, so 2mm diameter is big enough! Cut it to length and seal the ends with a flame to stop it from fraying. www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00Q9IHLCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 And you may need linelocks too: www.amazon.co.uk/Clam-Cleat-Mini-Line-Lok-Black/dp/B00BFCX5UO/ref=pd_bxgy_sccl_1/258-9345572-1469549?pd_rd_w=BooQW&content-id=amzn1.sym.79b812bf-5c8b-4c0c-851c-784423adaff5&pf_rd_p=79b812bf-5c8b-4c0c-851c-784423adaff5&pf_rd_r=FQ4PFWEPF21K3CSEEXWS&pd_rd_wg=Ywked&pd_rd_r=085dae18-2e06-4eed-a687-c8c5e713f44e&pd_rd_i=B00BFCX5UO&psc=1 The bungees on the doors are 4mm, as they need to be strong. But the other bungees can be much smaller (2mm). I buy a long length and cut to size. Just use a sharp knife and seal the ends with a flame. Hope this helps. Free free to ask anything else :-)
Really great video! I have the 2-pro so some of these weren't applicable, but certainly inspired me to think a bit more about possible tweaks and improvements I can try out, especially with the options for various guy-out alterations. I have had some issues with the side guy points causing leaking through the seams in heavy rain recently, my hack to fix-it in the midst of the rainstorm was to reduce the tension on those two points so that the walls lay flat, meaning the inevitable leaks ran down the inside of the fly and dripped through the mesh (2-pro condensation catch feature) instead of dripping straight down as when I had them tensioned out for the extra stability and headroom. I'm hoping that I've resolved the leak by applying a coat of seam sealant on the inside as well as the outside at those points, but I am now a little hesitant to really use those guy-points to their best functionality. In regards to your 2 questions at the end: 1. for the extra loop by the pole I think you're probably right that it's something to do with lifting the bathtub floor. I would imagine that with a bit of bungy you could rig something to snug it to the pole if you were worried about flooding risk; it even made me consider the idea of attaching a little bit of pole between that loop and the lower main attachment point to create a rigid lift of the floor edge (I notice the sagging quite a bit on this edge on my 2-pro, possibly worse with the single-wall/hybrid design). 2. I think the extra loop on the non-door side of the inner is likely a design efficiency from the factory where it might be simpler and easier to attach toggle and loop together to all four corner seams to reduce risk of accidentally attaching the toggle without loop to the wrong seam (I've seen similar sorts of redundancies in other 'cheap Asian' products).
Hi! I expect that the silicone proofing on those side-guy attachment points will fix the problem; using the side guys makes a big difference to the interior space and the stability. TBH perhaps I should have included something about the seam sealing in the video. And thanks for comments about the 'mystery' loops. I think you're right about both of them. I might explore adding an extra clip on to the bathtub loop so I can fix it higher up the walking pole? And the inside loop could be a useful home for those things that always seem to get lost on the middle of the night; for me, it's always my headtorch that seems to disappear!
Hi, I had to do a second round of seam sealer on my 2 pro at those points - fortunately I had a few days to seal and test in the backyard. After the 2nd application, not a drop of water through, even with a 5 minute soaking with a hose, and a couple of good rainfalls while on the trail. I did thin out my sealer with mineral spirits to make sure it soaked into the stitching and material.
Hi, I've recently bought the L2 and have carried out some of the mods you've shared. Thank you. One question, the silver reflective ridge tabs that are in play with the O ring and guy looped line, are they strong enough? Any wear on yours? They do seem to be of a flimsier material on mine. Was tempted to just run the guyline to the vent tab alone but do like that ridge pulled tight. Hoping that reflective tab lasts. Thanks again for the shared modifications. Paul
Hi Paul. I’m pleased that you’re using some of my suggestions! Regarding the top ‘reflective’ attachment points, yes they are definitely strong enough. I believe that they are designed to be used to suspend the tent from trees etc instead of using poles. I have never had problems or signs of weakness after 80+ nights in all conditions. It’s especially helpful to use the loop connecting the top point with the vent pull-out point because this distributes the tension loads. Hope this helps. Good luck!
Thanks for the two videos you've done on the Lanshan 2 mods. Your videos were one of the reasons I've bought one, it's yet to arrive but I'm already planning on some of those mods. Can I ask a few questions (no doubt I'll think of more later lol)? Whst size are those rings between the guyline loops and long guylines? And what are they made of? What length lines have you used for those guyline loops?
Thanks; I'm really pleased that my videos have helped you :-) The 'O 'rings on the guyline modification can be bought in the UK here: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266451056688 But I don't think they're essential; Dyneema is tough stuff, and I think it should be OK to just loop the guyline around the loop attached to the top of the tent. The top guyline loops attached to the tent are approximately 60cm long. I used a Bowline knot at each end. I hope this helps!!
@@longsufferinghikerI knew I'd forget to ask something 😂 Did you seam seal the side guy out points? If so what did you use? Am I correct in thinking that any seam sealant for silnylon is suitable?
Yes, on the non-Pro version the seams are all taped already, so you don't ned to do anything on them. But for some strange reason the side pull-out points aren't sealed at the factory. Most people us this: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002FO53EM but the secret is to dilute the sealant with white spirit so it's like honey; this means it's easier to apply and soaks into the stitching better.
Hello, first thank you for your video to optimize the Lanshan 2 😃 Also, I would like to know where I can buy Dneema elastic rope to make the same modifications. Can you add a pdf link with the instructions? If not, just share the link where I can find the gear at the best price. Thank you in advance for your reply. Sincerely, Jen❤
Hi Jen. Dyneema is easily available, in a range of colours and diameters. It is extremely strong and durable, but it is not at all elastic. These days Ive stopped using the bright yellow dyneema and instead I use a (more subtle) black with reflective stripes and luminous cord grips that are very useful in the dark. I suggest these: amzn.to/3J4ARA3
Hi there, amazing video thank you very much for so many brilliant tips, but no matter what I do, the inner ridge always touches the outer ridge. There is no separation as in your tent. I cannot seem to separate the two as they seem to move as a pair. What am.i doing wrong!?
Where'd you find that ring to connect the main guyout points to the guylines? I tried looking for plastic rings but I'm not finding anything that looks suitable for that application
To be honest, I can’t recall😒 I have a big bag of bits and pieces that I have salvaged from old gear, and they probably came off an old rucksac. BUT I don’t think they are really necessary, and if anything just add a potential weak spot. I think it would be perfectly acceptable to just loop the guyline around the top loop. Especially if you are using very strong dyneema lines.
@LongSufferingHiker, do you only have the 4-season inner? I’m considering the tent but am wondering how steamy the 4 season inner would get in non-winter situations.
Hi. Yes, I only have the 4 season inner. Most of my walking is done in the hills, and not much during the summer, so I appreciate the protection from wind. However whenever I’ve used it in warmer conditions it has been fine - I guess it also depends on the sleep system that you are using. But… out of curiosity I now have a Lanshan 1 with a 3 season inner 🙂 and I’m busy testing it out and working on a review video, so watch this space!
Fantastic video, I've copied you on my Lanshan 2 but I can't find the clips you've used for the extra guy points by the carbon poles at the bottom of the tent. What are they called and where would I find them??? Thank you so much
Hi Greg. Thanks! The clips are really useful because they can be put anywhere and don't perforate the fabric. I got mine here: ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/grip-clips/
Thanks!! As for the weight... The factory quoted trail weight of the 4-season standard tent is 1220g + 4-season inner (25g) + footprint (150g) = 1395g, but I think this may be a bit optimistic ;-) After adding the mods; better pegs, extra stuff sac, spare guyline, side poles (30g each) and 2 Delta pegs (48g each), mine totals 1764g (369g extra). But recently I've started to use the Titan Ground Anchors instead of the Deltas, saving 40g. That's a very impressive low weight for such a roomy 2 person tent. Hiking poles vary in weight, so I can't say how much they will add, but most people consider that you'll be using them anyway, so there is no additional weight.
Mod 4. This could also be used for double pegging in windy conditions, but it might be better to use bungee cord instead of paracord. Q1: I think the loop is used to insert the pole through before inserting through the base loop to keep the inner taut. Logic would suggest making that loop vertical, but maybe horizontally being twisted adds a level of tension? Q2: They also sell inverted-T 4S inners, meaning a central vertical zip with 2 separate horizontally-zipped doors that meet in the middle and separately open, so I think they’re covering themselves and installing ‘unnecessary to you’ loops for your J-door inner, to allow their use in inverted-T inners. (An economy of scale, if you will).
Q1 if you don't use trekking poles you can use a old tent pole cut to the desired length. The loop gives it more stability. If you do this I suggest placing a folded cloth to the top of the pole to prevent it from poking a hole in the top pocket. If a trekking pole breaks a stick cut to length will work. Love the video.
@@mikelovesbacon A lot of people would prefer the inner with inverted T zips, rather than the current J shape single zip, but they aren't available currently. However I have seen some comments that the inverted T design might be available soon...
Great video & tips, thanks. One of the best for the Lanshan!😀 My Lanshan 1 2021 version with 4 season T-door inner was delivered a few days ago and I will apply some of your suggested mods before even using it in the wild. My guess is the the loop on the inside of the inner and toggle on the outside (which you use to attach the inner to the outer), is actually for the T-door inner version so that both inner doors can be tied back. To standardise the manufacturing they probably just leave it there for the J-door inner as well. The loop on the top centre of the bath tub I don't know, but I have seen others tying a bungee from it to either the pole or top of the tent to keep the bathtub up; not sure if this is really required, but could help preventing dirt etc. being carried in when entering / exiting the tent. E.g. this video at 2:10 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1JCqvXedzww.html
Thanks Hans; I'm glad that you found it useful! I'll be interested to know how you get on with the tent. I think you are correct about the random extra loops. It's fun to come up with new ways to use them; for example I've started to use the loop on the inside to hand up my glasses, otherwise they have a habit of disappearing completely :-) And thanks for sharing the other videos, too; I always enjoy watching other people's suggestions. Happy camping!
Thanks Dave. From all the information I can gather, the Mier looks identical to the 3UL, so it’s just a matter of availability and price. If you’re in the UK then Colin Pollard at Outdoor Gear Essentials is worth checking out to see what he’s got in stock; outdoorgearessentials.co.uk/
That’s a good question, but it won’t work 😞 The hanging hooks for the inner are next to the top of the poles; the L1 inner will attach OK, but the front vestibule will be the same size, and you won’t be able to access the rear vestibule. But I have often used the L2 outer with the footprint as a shelter, and that might work for you.
Howdy LSH. Can you tell me what diameter guy & shock cord you used? And do you have a good source? Some of the extra bits you've used (eg the metal rings) don't seem that easy to get!
Hi. For the guyline I started with 3mm dyneema but it was too thick, so I now use 2mm. For the bungee I use 3mm diameter because it has to be strong. Both are easily available from eBay or Amazon. The ring connection on the guyline isn’t strictly necessary and recently I’ve been going without it on my Lanshan 1; I just loop the dyneema around. I’m preparing a 2nd modifications video right now with some small changes like that 🙂
It’s definitely a popular lightweight choice, and very good value. But it totally depends upon your needs; the interior space you want, whether you already use walking poles, and the location and weather conditions you expect. Choosing a tent is a very personal thing, and everyone you ask will have a different opinion! 🙂
