I am in Canton, GA. Going to try to do this ASAP. Thanks for the video and I WANT THOSE CARS!!!! :-). I have a 66 mustang now and looking to get a fox body to work on with my son. :-). Thanks for the video!!!!!!
If you would like some help, I can. I just don’t know how to get my info to you through RU-vid without broadcasting to everyone. Instead of buying the kit you can cut the 90 deg radius in half then add a straight piece in between.
You can do this without buying larger radius’s. Cut the 90 degree in half and add a piece of straight in between. Only have to modify the rails no need to move the torsion bar.
The look of satisfaction in your face when you demonstrate closing it and opening it makes DiY worth it ! I noticed your belt tensioner bolt is bottomed out , you can shorten those belts to allow more adjustment . If you have any garage door questions or interested how to shorten the belt lmk I can me a video I've been repairing Commercial and Residential Garage Doors for over 27 years
Awesome job. I'm looking to do something like this for my low-hanging garage door. If you still don't like the belt flopping around, you could probably find a tighter belt or add another pulley in the middle slightly offset, possibly spring loaded to add tension.
@@ghmichel72 I forgot about it for a while then looked into parts. I was going to use the power from the light, convert it to 24vdc (for safety)then activate a solenoid. However, I couldn’t find a solenoid with the enough stroke or proper duty cycle. My belt just broke last month so I broke down and bought the Chamberlain side mount system. So for I like it but it was expensive.
Brilliant! 3 questions please: 1)-If I choose to cut the existing 12” 90’s in half, how do I attach the added straight piece between? In other words, what bolt hardware/brackets and where can they be found? 2)-Just to confirm, the existing torsion bar does not need to be relocated and no need for longer cables or additional adjustment to torsion springs? 3) Can this be done on a double garage door with no issues to it’s operation? Thank you again…this is so smart! (and saves money for frugals like us).
I would use carriage bolts. Rounded head. You will have to drill holes then make the holes square with a file. Use a bracket or strap to hold them together. I prefer the way you are doing it since you won’t have to change anything else. Let me know how it turns out.
I certainly will. Thank you for the speedy response! So, I too have a lift, recently, and am concerned the affect of the side mount opener (it is also a Chamberlain whisper drive) will have on the double door. Instead of the center pull, will the end of the torsion rod wind up have the door lifting not level??? I think not, but value your opinion, please.
@@mrgoggles1963 if you have the money buy the Liftmaster 8500 side mount for the torsion bar. I want to get one but they are $450. They have a door lock and is more reliable than what I did. This will free up some space and you can bring your door close to the ceiling.
Local garage supply house. If you want to save some money just cut your 90 bend in half to make 2-45s then take the end of your horizontal and put it in between. Read details and comments for more info.
Perfect timing for this , I just put my new to me Challenger lift in my garage and I need to raise the door so I can get my car on the lift and still be able to open the door, my setup uses extensions springs though so I have to do a torsion spring conversion and I'm not sure if my chain drive lift can be used off to the side like you did here with your belt drive lift . Nice heads up though on the top door bracket clearance to the ceiling , currently my interior is unfinished so I need to take into account the finished ceiling in the future.
You can do it without buying the 30” radius. You can cut your 12” radius in half then add a small section from the end of the horizontal piece. Then you can put your torsion bar at any height along the wall. I didn’t show a safety release in the video since I had 3 garage doors. I plan on doing a follow up video of the safety release and solenoid lock.
Great Video! I am actually looking to do this. Can you tell me where you got all the parts from. I’ve tried looking but no luck. Only found the pulley on eBay.
You will have to contact your local garage door company to order one. What you could do for free is cut your 90 degree in half and add a straight piece in between the 2 45s. Take the straight piece from the end of the horizontal piece.
Yes, but you will lose some height due to your torsion spring and you will need longer cables. It would be better to add extensions in between your cut 90s to get the curve away from the wall so you have room for your torsion spring.
Nice cars. Did you ha e to raise the torsion bars too and is that a 7’ tall garage door. If you did move the torsion bar how do you know how to locate the new position
The doors are actually 9’x8’. I did move the torsion bar but I think it had clearance to not move it. If you for sure don’t want to move the torsion bar you can cut your 90 curve in half to make 2 45s and then add a straight section in between. That way you won’t have to buy any tracks.
This is the lift I purchased. It was around $2500 when I bought it. It is 120V. I think you can get 240V though. At120 it pulls a lot of amps with a heavy car. If you have a 20 amp circuit in your garage you will be fine. 15amp may trip. www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/car-storage-parking-lift-car-park-8-plus-tall-8000-p/autolift-car-park-8plusp.htm
@@fixthemthingsthank you!! May I ask what the dimensions of your garage are? Depth and ceiling? Your garage and your door? I’m looking to lift one of my mustangs as well (I have 4, it’s a problem 😅).
Wow. See my garage door is 10’w x 9’t, depth 28’, and a 12’ ceiling, and all the calculations I’ve done, not will fit. But yours is smaller and the lift fits fine. Hmmmm. Not sure what I’m measuring wrong.
If I remember correctly, the kit came with new pulleys and longer cable. I also bought a new bar and springs. I don’t think the door hit the old pulleys. I would have to watch my video again to verify. Lol.
If you want to save money and not move your torsion bar you can cut your 90 degree bend in half and add a straight piece in between. Grab the straight piece from the end of the horizontal piece. Maybe I should do a video on doing that to my other door. Read through other comments I wrote to other people on that subject.
I have 11 foot ceiling and want my garage door to go higher up, cant i just get something to extend the side rails to push the entire garage door assembly 2 feet higher?
@fixthemthings that is kind of what I was getting too, i cannot find longer rails in my area cheap but if I could get my hands on another 7 footer then I could cut it to a 2 foot piece for each side. Should work?
Did you have use a different spring and pulleys on the garage door torsion bar when moving it up out of the way of the 30 inch radius assembly? Do you also have a link for the 30" radius track kit?
390Camaro I had a new spring already so I went ahead and put it on cause the old one was 15 yrs old. I could have used the original pulleys with longer cables but I went ahead and used the pulleys in the kit with longer cables. I called my local garage door company to order since I couldn’t find anywhere online to order it.
Very helpful, and timely for what I am looking at doing. Question: why is it not a good idea to just keep the same radius and move it up closer to the ceiling? I have no idea - never did this.
You could keep the radius however you will need more headroom for the torsion spring bar so you would lose some height. Another option is to cut your radius in half and add a piece of straight from the end of the rail. This would give you 2 -45degree radius’s with a straight in between. You will need room for your springs and pulleys.
How do you measure radius. Do I have to change radius rail. or just add bottom horizontal piece only. I am going to change new spring too. Where did you get the radius rail kit please. Thank you
You can add straight if you don’t need the room for the overhead door opener however you will lose some headroom for your torsion spring. Add extensions and get longer cables and buy the expensive side mount opener. I think they are around $450 now. I will eventually buy the side mount opener myself but I just don’t need to spend that money right now. Another option is to cut your 90s in half and add your extension there. Then you won’t need longer cables and you can go as high as you can.
Depends on your opening in the wall itself. This project just raises the whole garage door height. Your opener may need an extension with a longer belt if it does not go as high as the opening in the wall.
UPDATE: So…I did the rails rework as mentioned. Here is the new configuration. The track now travels 45 degree for half of the previous 12” radius, then on the straight 26” piece cut from the back end horizontal portion…then the remaining half of the 12” radius sets it to the horizontal piece. I did not relocate the torsion bar, nor did I use different drums or cables, as per your mentioned earlier that nothing needs to be changed. The track and spliced pieces etc are all very solid and the door operates, (manually as I don’t have an opener on it yet) smoothly. The springs are both at 31 quarter winds and the cables adjusted taut. Problem: The door when unlatched springs up and stops at about a foot or so above the ground. Then it has to be lifted the rest of the way, manually of course, but is quite heavy. It does not stay opened on its own and wants close rapidly. It doesn’t crash to the ground and stops at the balance point of about a foot or so above the ground. I have to push it with my foot the rest of the way and engage the latch. So, the new configuration has half the door below the horizontal point and on the 45 degree track. The rest above the last curve point. This means alot of weight is in 45 degree suspension and constantly pulling down. I don’t think adjust the springs tighter is the answer. I may have to purchase a kit as you have and raise the bar/springs/replace drums and cables etc. Your thoughts before I do that?
That doesn’t make sense. Strange. Won’t go all the way down but door is heavy. I would think you would have to tension the spring more due to the heavy door but not going to the ground doesn’t sound right. You should be able to to easily lift the door if the tension is correct. Are you sure it is not catching on the bolts you added? Maybe the door is being squeezed at one point. Not sure with out seeing it.
The track is equi-distant at all points when measured across to the other side. There are no obstructions and the track is solidly braced with strut. The carriage head bolts are not in the way and the rollers do have play to protrude or retract if required. The only thing I can think of, is to add a quarter turn or two to each spring and see if the current balance point changes significantly. I will try to send pics shortly, if I can. Thank you for getting back to me.
So I adjusted up the springs and the door now stays up. However, it bounces up from closed position even more and as expected. Closing it from 1/4 raised (balance point for the door now) requires more force. So the unequal and non linear forces as the door travels from full closed to full open tell me it may be time for new and heavier springs?
@@mrgoggles1963 I put new springs on mine since they were 16th old and one of my other door springs broke. I didn’t show that in the video because it was more about raising the door than spring tensions. Hopefully it all works out for you.
This is the lift but I paid less than that: www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/car-storage-parking-lift-car-park-8-plus-tall-8000-p/autolift-car-park-8plusp.htm You can raise it for labor and a few screws if you cut the existing radius in half and cut a small part off of the horizontal piece to put in between the radius you cut. I’m trying to remember my cost for the kit. I think it was $180. I think I said that in the video.
Could this be done with just longer vertical rails at the door? Keeping the 12” radius and of course adjusting all the related items .. shorter horizontal rails .. shorter rail supports from ceiling.
You can but it won’t be as high as changing the radius. Look at yours and see how much room there is between ceiling and the torsion bar. That will be the maximum you can raise your door then. You won’t have to buy anything if you cut your radius in half to make 2 45s and cut the end of your horizontal and install that in between the radius’s. You won’t have to move anything else. Maybe I should do a video on that.
@@fixthemthings thanks for reply. Yes video update would be great. RU-vid algos might like that also. The garage height is tall. The supports are 40” long I feel like the installers would have had an EASIER job had they just put the horizontal rails as close to ceiling as possible. I feel like because they are so far from the ceiling it was harder to install the long supports to the rails. If that makes sense. Makes the garage so much smaller when door is open. I may tackle it as a diy .. need to confirm minimum clearance from ceiling and if spring would need adjusting. No torsion bars just extension springs but will allow some clearance anyway. Basic doors builder grade from new construction in 2006. No garage opener installed but maybe tackle that at the same time.
Hi for $180 did that include rails and everything in the box? How would I order what you displayed on the video? I don’t need the garage door opener. Outstanding DIY help.
I’m not sure if they will ship that due to size. I just asked for the 30” radius kit. You should be able to have any garage door company in your area order that for you. Another option is to cut your 90 in half to make 2 45s and ad a straight piece in between. That would be free.
You can buy it from your local garage door supplier. If you don’t want to buy that just cut your 90 deg radius in half and add track in between the now 45s. You can use the last few feet of track and splice it in. No need to move torsion spring or cables. I should do a video on that I guess.
@@fixthemthings Thanks for the quick reply. I have been Googleing for 20" radius track and getting nothing. I think the local guys don't sell parts, just install. Love to find the kit you mentioned for $180
Here is the link. I think I paid $2500. Wow the prices went up a lot. www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/car-storage-parking-lift-car-park-8-plus-tall-8000-p/autolift-car-park-8plusp.htm
Great video! Might sound like a weird question, but you mentioned you got about 18” in height by using the 30” radius, but it looks as if h door and track are more than 18” forward. How much farther forward is your setup now of the new one vs the old?
I would have to check. You can save money just by cutting your existing 12” radius in half and grabbing what you need off of your horizontal rail to put in betweeen the 2 - 45 deg pieces.
@@fixthemthings that sounds good, thanks. The reason I’m looking at a similar setup is because I have an I beam that runs across my garage about five and half feet from the door. So what I’m looking to do is see if I can hug the garage door close to the ceiling and have it in front of that I beam, if so I would probably use a side lift system instead of my old style garage door opener like you did.
I like that idea, avoids having to purchase a $400+ side mount opener. Mine has a chain instead of the cogged belt. I guess I could do the same thing if I could find the right chain sprocket to go where you mounted that pulley you used. But where to find such a sprocket, hmm... Other things come to mind. I would like a safety release, that way if the power goes out there's still a way to open the door by hand. But when raising the door up the length of the chain or belt gets shortened. There may not be enough length to install the link in the chain where the safety release connects before it has to travel around the drive sprocket.
Mine is still working great. The safety release needs to be installed. I was gonna do another video on that later including a solenoid lock feature. You can insert a smaller diameter pipe/cold roll inside the existing pipe and drill a hole through both and use a pull pin to release. You would then mount a pulley or sprocket to the smaller pipe. Also on your door opener your chain can be really short and mount your opener on the wall instead. Look on the chain for the chain size and purchase a sprocket about the same diameter as your drums. You will also need to adjust your limits on your opener for the size of the sprocket.
I did because I had the parts from the kit but there should be enough space where you wouldn’t have to raise it. If you don’t want to buy a new horizontal piece then you can cut your 12” radius in half (45 degree) and add a straight piece in between. Totally free just your labor.
If you don’t want to buy larger radius horizontal pieces you can cut your existing radius in half and grab some straight track from the other end and put it in between. I was going to do that but requires more labor and you wouldn’t have to raise the shaft with the pulleys.
I ordered mine from a local supply. Overhead doors of Atlanta. You won’t find it online. Another thing you can do for free is cut your 12” radius in half and add a straight piece in between from the end of the horizontal piece.
@@fixthemthings I have a 45 degree section of ceiling between top of door section and highest part of ceiling, I guess a jackshaft motor is my only solution? I basically have to extend that radius with a straight piece as you mentioned, to snug it up to highest point. Just wondering, looking for budget solution, not sure I can still get away with a traditional motor that would not have the chain horizontal from the motor to the pulley? (Motor still near end of door track, and not at corner/radius?) Thanks for any insight, cheers
@@svnbit8408 just remember if you do the jack shaft conversion there is no safety release. You will need to make a safety release. I didn’t worry about it since I had 3 doors. I will eventually make one I just haven’t had time.
@@fixthemthings Agreed. But hopefully when they're up and running, it should take some of the pain away. *Sigh* Gouging is what it is... They told me they are on backorder from Liftmaster. They probably are actually...
Are you gonna keep your opener? If so just add something like 3.5’ of straight track and and raise your torsion bar and get longer cables. If you use a side opener then you can go higher. You don’t have to get the 30” radius.
@@fixthemthings I'm the same way. I've changed out the motor box with a used one a couple time's on the same door and track. Garage door openers are a dime a dozen!
I got it from Overhead doors. You don’t need to buy the kit. You can cut your existing radius in half(2-45s) and take a piece of the horizontal piece and install that in between your 2 radius’s to raise your door without moving your springs.