Injector Hold Down Repair - T1N Sprinter Van (OM647 & OM612) 

Thanks for the video. I broke off an injector "stretch" Bolt, and managed to extract it using the following method: I took a very small drill bit and drilled a very small hole in the top of the broke off bolt that was stuck in place, and then gently tapped a tapering Flathead mini screwdriver into that hole. I was then able to gingerly turn the screwdriver and back the broke off bolt shaft out of its hole. This was possible because it was the injector closest to the front of the engine. If it was the 3rd or 4th or 5th injector back it would have been most likely impossible to use this method. Lastly, I should mention that I broke off the bolt because I confused foot-pounds with inch-pounds. So obviously I'm not some kind of rocket scientist, but it did work to do it this way described above.

You are a brave brave man. I admire this. You killed it. Good stuff🤘

I'm working through the very same. Lifted the cover to find black death completely over the whole area and grew to stick on the underside of the cover .. spent a week picking to black stuff but wet and dry. Oven cleaner is good but makes everything gooey. . Prefered dry and vacuuming. Did no 2 which was a mess. 1 is stuck and 3 and 4 ready to pull .. patience is a must

Having done a few diy RU-vid repair videos I feel adding pictures with the videos have helped alot of my viewers. List of tools used. I've even uploaded the same video longer with more details and shorter to boost my numbers (3 minutes max). My tripod with a cheap selfie stick has worked wonders on getting the perfect view. Either way your videos are still very helpful and sent you some coffee☕

Thanks!

Smashing biscuits

Thank you for your video, you do a good job helping us Diyers! I was wondering, outside of keeping the hole straight, is it necessary to protect the threads of the “old” hole when I’m assuming you’re going to drill them out with the 3/8” oversized bit that came with your kit? You don’t show drilling out the “old” hole with the oversized bit, did you just eyeball it? Also did you use any lubricant while drilling out the broken steel bolt or while enlarging the hole with the 3/8” bit? Is it tricky to start the oversized 3/8” bit straight? Did you use any lubricant while tapping the hole and is it difficult to start the tap straight? You ran the new threaded insert “all the way down in there” did you mean all the way to the bottom? Also, where did you buy the kit you used? Thanks for your work, coffee is on the way!

This was a $1,500 repair for me on number 4 injector for light black death. Valve for gasket Copper washers Grease I provided the new injector.

I asked this on your Facebook page, too, but how deep do I need to drill and tap the new hole? And how deep is the insert supposed to sit? In the video I hear you say “it seems I’ve hit bottom” while turning the tap, but I’m not sure if that’s the actual bottom of the hole or just the bottom of where you’ve drilled to.

Just wanted to know how long does this kind of fix last for an aluminum engine?

Where did you get the insert kit from??? Thanks!!

I had the valve cover off my 2006 Dodge 2500 Sprinter because an injector bolt broke as I was removing the injectors due to Black Death. I drilled our the broken bolt, retapped the hole and installed an Indian worm from Linden Engineering and am putting the Valve cover back on. I wondered how you reattached the black hose at the back end of the valve cover? I’m trying to push it back through the hole but it’s fighting me since it’s a short hose at the very back of the engine compartment and there’s not much slack to work with. I’ve oiled it up slightly to help push it through the hole but am struggling. Do I need to crawl under the van and work from there? I didn’t see you attaching the hose in your video. Wondering if there’s an easy way to do it. Thanks for your videos.

Do you recommend putting locktight on the insert? If so red or blue?

The inserts are something i would do. I hear alot of horror stories. So I opted to use M8 x8 x1.5 steel thread non stretch. I swear i should not do this but non the less i did. Since then yes, I have had a leak but it's not spraying. However, it's coming from the side of the engine on the right side. Coming from the head cover overflow pipe. I think i can assume that the copper washer is not sealing correctly. They are all new seals. Yes, i had to ream the head for the injector holes. I am wondering if you have any ideas on what other versions of the copper washer i can use instead of the OEM merc version. maybe nissan x trail or honda washers. they are thicker. After reaming the holes, some ALI material was removed to flatten the hole so lost material here. Thicker washers would make up the loss of ALI surely.??! Also, i hear 2 versions of settings for the bolts tightens. EG. 7nm +90 DEG + 90DEG then slacken then retigthen to 7nm. um umm. and the other version is 7nm + 90deg and done!!.. So i went with 10nm +90deg and done. Please advice.

Do you sell those insert kits

Hey guys, I have an om 648 kind à same, but what is the insert? What size outside diameter and what is the thread on the outside? I can’t find it:( I need only to fix thread, cand drive..

Jaja, thzee Gzermans know everyzhing bezzer. Like engineering this engine with M6 injector bolts.

Found it. Is there any harm to doing this with the valve cover on and is that insert a helicoil or something else? How has the insert held up being that it's not the entire depth of the hold down?