Another job well done by Mike. I'm tearing into my shovel for the second time in the 15+ years I have owned it. Made some big mistakes last time. Some I re-did, often three or four times. If your channel had been around back then, I would've gotten it right, instead of 80% right. Thanks, you have no idea how many folks you are helping.
Holy crap I was just telling a bunch of people about Pacific Mike saying he was the Bob Ross of the motorcycle world!!! just needs a happy little part here and a happy little cam over there
Thanks again for the great video of knowledge, I'm extremely thankful. I'm working on a '78 Shovel Head and even though I have done a few of these jobs it's still a stress free and comforting way to remind me to relax and don t stress about it and do the steps. Thanks again! Another job well done. ....and on to the next.
Great Job...I always appreciate a shop that is clean organized and operated my a master mechanic that cares about what they are working on...Now days you mention Shovelhead or Panhead...Knuckle or flat and people think you fell off the Moon...Beautiful work...Santa Cruz California
Hello Mr. Mike. I just picked up a 72 FLH. After watching your videos my little mechanical knowledge has been boosted Thank you for the great and simple instruction. My DNA is closely related to a rock and your tempo makes it easy to understand and follow. Thanks again
Thank you sir. I am grateful for the knowledge I gain from Mikes Garage. Thank you to the camera man and any others involved in the process. I actually wait patiently for the ads to end on your channel.
It's been a long time since I did a shovel install. I no longer own that bike but it was a good one. It's running around Honolulu now. A Panhead is my next build. I rode a 49 internal oiler FLH for several years. It's time for another but in a better, softer riding frame. My back just can't do the rigids anymore. Thank you for the memories.
Thank you. You know, if a rigid frame is set up the way the factory intended, they're pretty comfortable. The factory seatpost, set for your specific weight, is pretty cool.
WOW! Thank you Mike, this Video was a genuine eye opener for me. I have done this kind of job on my bikes a couple of times during the almost 38 years i have owned and driving Harley Shovelheads, and i have obviously doing it the wrong way the whole time all these years. What i have done is that i have kept both engine and transmision loose while bolting the inner primary housing and thightening it up to the engine and transmisson , and after that, i have tightening the enginebolts to the engine mountings, and transmisson bolts to the mounting plate. I have never had a problem with a cracked Innerprimary housig, but that has been becuse of a bunch of luck i guess. Thank you sir.
Mike, thank you very much for all the tips and warnings. We put a rebuilt S&S engine into a 1980 FLH frame. Everything works and we are on the road again. We would have made some big mistakes without your videos. Thank you!
Love the videos. Subscribed!! You're much more professional than some of the other guys here on YT. They can be very condescending. You're very detailed on what you're doing. You remind me of an old mechanic I used to know (since passed). He was always patient with me even when I felt like I was wasting his time. Taught me allot. Keep the videos coming. We all appreciate you taking the time to help us out. Thank you!! :-D
Thank you. The goal is to show it the best we can. We try to keep improving. We add videos when we can. Please be patient. Condescending? I'll bet anything, that you know lots of things I don't. We all start wherever we start, and we all learn as we go.
Hey Mike, I just subscribed to your channel and wanted to say thank you.. I really appreciate you taking the time to record & post these Harley How Too videos".. I'm currently working on 1975 Shovelhead and came across them while searching for this exact type of information. It was very helpful for me & I'm sure it will be helpful for many others as well.. Thanks again..
I Have a 1984 FLHS Shriner bike that i just tore down and will be rebuilding into a "Cholo" Lowrider scoot over the rest of this year paycheck to paycheck and at 62 it's been 19 years since i tore down a shovel and do what i'm about to do. So it's me and you brother and your videos to try it one more time. This bike is a little strange, for a '84 Shriner bike, it has a special order rear belt drive so it's different to me in that aspect. Thanks in advance for the videos.
That is a rare bird, that bike. I believe it still runs a dry clutch and oil circulated primary. Very nice, same as Police issue I think. Have fun, it's cool.
Dang it - watched this too late and just cracked my primary - front two lugs snapped as everything went out of alignment when the engine came out,. At least I won't be cracking the replacement now you have schooled me on how to do it right! Keep on riding free,
Hey Mike - Probably one of the best how to videos Ive seen in a long time! Well explained & good clear video & audio. Keep it up... Instantly went to look for the next step, which was installing the primary drive...guess you havent gotten that far yet, dont suppose you could knock that one out over the weekend? Kinda sketchy on how to set up the spacers & etc. Excellent though, first person Ive subscribed to, Keep it up
Sorry 'bout that, but there are so many combinations, different clutch hubs, different alternator rotors. We try not to add confusion. But if everything clears and looks to be in line, there should always be daylight on both sides of the sprocket teeth between the chain plates. Harley's service manual shows how to set the position of the of the primary chain on a stock setup.
Hey Mike. Love the videos. Would be great to see you do one on setting up the isolated primary conversation on a shovel that everyone seems to do. Lots of conflicting information out there about everything from how to route the hoses to how much and what fluid to run. Sure would be great to see one set up right. Thanks again all the way from Australia.
I've answered this one before, but here goes. The factory does a great job. Isolating the primary doesn't work like the later ones because they weren't built to hold a volume of oil and a little oil in there just bothers your clutch without oiling the chain well. Just my opinion, but I run the stock oiling system for the primary on my Shovelhead. It's worked for 400 thousand miles.
Pacific Mike that’s great to know. The 80 fxwg I’ve picked has had this isolated primary modification done to it and it’s a can of worms. Looks like I might go back to stock after your comments. Thanks.
Hey Mike. I dont have a harley but I have 3 triumphs. These videos are making me want a harley!! I've been watching Lunmad (on line triumph mechanic)for years. You are a bit more professional than him. I always talk about the mechanics "touch" when tightening bolts. Intuitive ly you know when to stop and what sequence to use. Dont know if you are familiar with Lunmad but he is "worth a Google ." Nice job. I know triumphs inside and out just getting feet wet with harleys. Glad you are out there! Thank you.
I'm a new Shovelhead owner with a lot to learn. I'd be interested to hear why you chose to keep the engine oil circulating through the primary as I've seen some guys bypass it. Really enjoying your videos. Thank you.
Thank you. I've heard this question beaten to death. But, it won,t go away. I think the stock system is fine. I think the later system is better. But, I don't think the two mix. In other words, Blocking off the original lines and pouring a quart of oil into the primary isn't feasible because that original housing was not made to hold a quart of oil and it will splash out in many directions. Pouring a little in the bottom will leak and won't oil the chain properly. Not to mention the fact that it will get on to the clutch plates. Although most clutch plate are now designed to run wet or dry, "wet or dry" does not mean "with oil splashed on it." It means "completely wet or completely dry." The argument against the original system has always been that clutch lining would contaminate the oil system running through the engine. After 400 thousand miles on my Shovelhead, I'm here to tell you, I don't see that problem.
Hi Mike, I just rebuilt the stock trans on my '68FLH and put it back into the bike. Along the way I checked many times to ensure the mainshaft moves freely. The only thing different done after the tranny rebuild was to use a Super Nut with the seal built in to secure the trans sprocket. I installed the inner primary case similar to how you describe to do so and torque down the bolts and nuts to secure properly. I decided to once again check for any binding. The tranny is in neutral and the rear drive chain is installed with the rear wheel off the ground enough to spin. I attempt to spin the rear tire and find it does not want to move freely. To eliminate that as the problem I remove the masterlink on the chain and note the wheel spins freely. I reconnect the masterlink and take a look with a flashlight to see if something is jamming the rear drive chain on the trans sprocket and all looks clear and fine. I use a bit more force and note the mainshaft is now turning, but not overly freely. I also note that there is sliver like aluminum filings appearing on the drive chain as it comes out of the inner primary with the chain turning in normal rotation. They are on the outside of the chain (inner primary side). I am wondering if that Super Nut since it is much thicker than the stock nut may be rubbing against the inner primary causing the binding and the sliver like filings. I really do not want to remove the inner primary to see if this is the case. Have you ever had a similar issue when using the Super Nut on a '65 - '69 FLH?? Thanks.
Yes. It does happen on the 65-69 units. There is less room in those than the 70-up units. I think you figured it out and are most likely correct. Been quite a while since I've done that one, but I remember it. There is also less room for the sprocket in there. I remember grinding out space on my 65 for a 25 tooth trans sprocket.
Hi Mike, thank you kindly for your thoughts and insight. Great to have someone like you who is willing to take the time to post the videos you do and try to help by responding to questions from your viewers.
Mike, Great vid and well presented information as always. Is there a vid on the “timing degree scale” attachment you referred to in this vid? Asking because my rotor magnet has 2 yellow hash / slash marks that appear to be 45 degrees apart. Are these marks to line up with the crank case hole TDC
Mike You do a great job explaining how to do things and for someone like myself who is not a good wrench your videos help. I have a question on primary cases. I have a EARLY 1984 FXRS and I need to replace the inner primary. OEM 60657-84 Casting 60602-79B online I find several 60602-79 and 60602-79C but no 79B will the other # interchange?
Thank you Mike for all the valuable information you provide in your videos. I am installing the inner primary on my early 1978 FXE Super Glide. I was wondering what your opinion is about isolating the primary oil from the engine oil. By removing the hoses that connect the two together. Thank you for your input.
I get asked this question a lot. I personally like the stock system. The later, isolated system, although better, uses different housings that are made to hold oil. The earlier ones don't.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you Mike, I think you are right. I have been freshening up my 78' FXE and have watched a lot of you videos for guidance, they re very much appreciated.
Hello Mike and thanks for the upload. Thinking about uploading myself. Have an old 80 shovel 5 speed. Researching, I have been hearing that it is better to strip and plug 2 of the three hoses to the primary leaving top one as a vent and adding a half a quart of oil. Plastics from the shoe tensioner and metal from chain will be isolated in the primary. Of course like the new twin cams and evo's, you must change the oil at intervals. Have done this myself with no problems. Also wonder if you would speak on the Hayden chain tensioners. Have those both on my twin cam and shovel.
I'm a big fan of the Hayden M-6 tensioner and worked on them with the owner of the company years ago. There are a few little tricks and maybe we can get into that later on.
Aggressive riding I get some chain slap from the tensioner. The idea is outstanding compared to HD's ratchet type tensioner. Usually tensioners are spring loaded like the Hayden or hydraulic. HD went out on a limb (probably a mistake) with their auto tensioner and now are selling a fixed tensioner to replace it.
At the end of this video you mentioned showing motor sprocket and clutch installation next, please let me know if you filmed that, I don't see a video listed. I'm doing a stock '75 FLH
Hello from Texas. Mike iv have a 78 shovel and one of the stud broke off on my clutch hub, so I went to take off the hub using the proper tools and long story short found that the hub is welded into the main shaft by way of a corroded key. (Original hub 43yrs) I've tried everything from heat to cold. Using harley puller, to standard puller, and slide hammer this hub will not budge. Should I cut off with a grinder wedging towards the key then use chisel to try and spread apart?
I've never had one that bad. You can do anything. But the point is to not damage the shaft. Sometimes it becomes "artwork." I go nuts and start cutting stuff down until the part I have to remove is quite thin. Then I carefully slice it with a dremel with a little cutoff wheel. Maybe not even all the way, then finish with very small chisel. Very time consuming. But, better than damaging something good.
Mike-outstanding info. well done. QUESTION....I just took the primary off to replace the main shaft seal, etc,but did not remove or loosen the transmission, should I loosen the trans from the frame/plate now in order to do the steps as you recommend, and give the inner primary "wiggle room" or should I be ok to just bolt up the inner to the trans and engine ?
I don't know how well it fits now. If you aren't sure it was put in place with absolutely no stress, Take the trans loose and go through the steps and know it is not stressed when you're finished. Thank You.
Realy like your shovel head videos. I ride 68 shovel haven't seen anything on them. Got it in 79 can you reckonend better ignition system besides stock points. Thanks
I hate to admit it, but, I haven't had the best of luck with electronic units on sixty-nine and earlier bikes. On my Knuckle and my Pan, I still use points. The electronic units for those have probably improved significantly since I tried one last.
Hi guys! You're a great teacher Mike. Love the vids. Question if I may. I already have a98 evo fatboy and want another bike, should I stay away from shovelheads and stick with a other evo or have a shovel in the collection as well? I want to go Springer and 16 fat tire up front....
Hi Mike, Hope all is well. When removing a '65 and up BT compensator sprocket do you remove the bolt that secures the chain tensioner first and then jamb something the size of a hammer handle between the primary chain and compensator sprocket or do you leave the chain tensioner in place? Looks to me that if you first remove the bolt securing the chain tensioner that there would be more slack in the chain requiring a bigger piece of wood that could actually put pressure on the inner primary case at the top above the comp sprocket. I do not have a tool I can put on an impact gun, so I have to do it the old fashioned way by making my own tool of a 2" x 12" x 3/8" flat bar with two dowel pins that line up with the holes in the comp nut. Thank you.
I didn't have the money for the tool and made one for my "65 back in the seventies. I did the same thing you did, then had a buddy of mine weld a socket to it. Then I fired up the impact.
Funny thing is I am an ironworker for over thirty years and a ticketed welder, but I recently moved and don't have an outlet for my buzz box. So do you see any harm by leaving the tensioner in place at the adjusted level when you loosen the comp nut?
Mike, thank you for your videos, you’ve helped so much in my rebuild. I’m rebuilding a ‘78 SuperGlide that originally had the pass through shifter in the primary. Somewhere along the lines forward controls were added, but they left the pass through shifter linkage in the primary. Is there any way to plug the hole on the back side when I pull the primary apart? Or do I need to buy a new inner housing?
I've used a pipe plug on the inner from the outside in. I thing it was 1/4" pipe thread. Don't quote me. I'd have to look at it to remember the size. But, I'd almost swear it was 1/4 pipe. And, Thank You for watching.
Thanks for another great video, I've learned so much about Shovalhead's from watching them. Question, I have a 1971 Shovalhead, can the oil tank be removed without removing the entire primary assembly?
Not generally. There's no right way to get it out the left side with the primary in the way. Someone out there can probably do it, but I'm not sure how.
Hi Mike. Hey any chance you can show us how to time your shovel using the timing plate that you installed under the safety wired bolts? I am assuming that it facilitates the timing process. I found one and have installed it. Maybe you can briefly explain the process here if not in a tume up video soon? Thanks Geno...
It's not really necessary, but it's in there as a reference. I put a corresponding mark on the alternator rotor. I put a rubber cap over the primary oiler. With the inspection cover removed, I use a digital timing light with the motor running. I can then set my timing at specific RPM levels.
Hi Mike, great videos you have here. I have a question regarding my 1983 Shovelhead FLHP. It has two washers, one each on the front two trany studs that come out through the inner primary. These were in between the inner primary and the trany itself. It does mention this in the manual. Unfortunately they were misplaced years ago but I have been trying to find info on these, such as are they a specific thickness. I have not been able to find any mechanics that are familiar with these. I also have not been able to find any videos on finalizing the trany mounting and any adjustments that may be needed to finalize this. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You, Mike
You've got me stumped. The only washers I know of on those two forward studs go INSIDE the inner primary. If there were two between the inner primary and the trans, it would require two more for the rear pair of studs. I'm not saying you're wrong, but, after going through the parts manual, I question this. The spacing would be wrong. I can't find it. The trans case should nest on the right side of the inner primary.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks for replying so quickly. I have never talked to any one that remembers this, but they were there the first time I removed the inner primary. In my manual, on page 6-29 under primary chain/belt case it does say "Remove the primary case. The two washers that fall off when the primary is removed belong on the two front transmission-to-primary studs." my original mechanic that had helped me learn many things has passed so can't ask him. My bike is a stock '83 shovel that I got out of a police auction in Florida. I have dealt with a old time Harley dealer that used to be in madison, wi and almost anytime I went to get a part (brake anchor, choke cable, etc) he would tell me that that was not stock on my bike. He even said the belt drive was not stock, yet the vin number showed it was. I have found that some of the parts on my bike , like the rear two inner primary to transmission bolts are not the same ones they show in the parts book, they are actually from a different set of years. Some things have stumped mechanics, but like I said, I got it from a Florida police dept and I believe it to be all stock. I will continue with my repair as you've suggest. Thanks again for the quick reply, Mike
Thank You. Yes, It is pretty much the same process. I am assuming you're not working with a rubber mount such as a Dyna, FXR, or FLT series. Shovelhead with solid mount drivetrain and Evo with solid mount drivetrain are very similar when mounting the inner primary housing.
Great video! 1 question tho...What is the purpose of the small hose? I know the other 2 are for oil circulation but my inner primary is mounted to an EVO and they are blocked off. Should I just block off the small one too? I would think the case should breath?. Should I run a hose over the chain as an oiler? Your thoughts?
@@pacificmike9501 The only opening in my primary is the small hose nipple.Just a short piece on it dropping down behind the primary for a vent. Enough oil to just touch the bottom of the clutch basket is added through the derby cover when the bike is upright.Somewhere around 8 oz. I don't want clutch material in the oil going back to the engine oil supply.
Mike I noticed you did not place the gasket in behind the primary where the starter motor shaft goes through. I have one it has an O ring in the center which I replaced. Should I put rtv all around the edges. It appears this is steel. I wouldn't think much oil would splash that high. This part was on the bike when I brought it.
Sure I did. I probably installed it right before the starter motor. Anyway, that part is steel. If it is badly bent, replace it. The jackshaft can bind in it. And, there is a gasket between that plate and the inner primary. I apologize for not showing all the details. I really mean to show more and better.
how impearitive is it to use only studs on the transmission mounts? I noticed a couple of kits for sale on JPcycles only have two studs and two bolts. In your opinion, is this acceptable. If so , which mounts should I install the studs?
love your chanel Mike question my manual for 93 softail says to loosen motor also before installing inner primary . wondering why you didnt do it that way. im learning still so thanks for your time. Also at end of video is it safe to torque the transmission to plate and transmission to frame mounts?
It's the way I do it. If the motor is properly located, why move it? We're talking about Harley Big Twins with "solid mounted" engines, not rubber mounts. The inner primary should be carefully mounted to the transmission. Then, since the trans is floating, it can be attached to the motor. Aligning the trans to the engine is very important and the trans to the swingarm pivot. If your motor shaft, transmission mainshaft and swingarm pivot bolt are all in perfect alignment with each other when you're done, it's perfect. Then align your axles with that same pivot bolt, and you will have a very smooth Harley Davidson.
what about when its belt drive and chain final?and do i have to have special inner if i want to change to open?my bike is frankensteined and ive got lot invested and trying to fix other screw ups.sputhe trans ss motor evo jugs shovel primary starter setup....
These are personal choice things. I always advise against open primaries. As to what you need to attach the motor to the trans? What would you like? There are plenty of choices available.
Hi Mike, thanks for great videos! Where can I get that timing plate u have in the inner primary and what is it actually called. Thanks, Jonas in Sweden
Mike thanks for the videos. I have a 1966 electra glide that I am trying to get to the transmission my inner primary is stuck. I have tried heat and light prying. Do you have any tricks that could help. Thanks Fred
Where is it stuck? Is it stuck to the motor or the transmission? Has everything else been removed? Has the starter been removed? Not sure where you're stuck.
@@pacificmike9501 it was stuck at the crank case. I put a piece of wood on the back side with a mini sledge hammer it came loose. Thanks for your help. Your videos have really enabled me to work on my bikes. Thanks again Mike!
Hey Mike, good video. at the end of the operation of remounting the primary is that when you tighten the transmission down? in the beginning of the video you had left the bolts holding it to the plate loose. The plate had been fully tightened down. You then mounted the inner primary starting with the attachment to the transmission first. And then did the bolts on the front of the motor. You never covered or, maybe it's obvious, that you tighten the transmission down after all eight bolts that hold the inner primary in place are tightened.
You got it. Now tighten the five bolts that hold the trans to the plate. Tighten them evenly and a little at at time until they are good and tight. Start on the left side, then the right, then the fifth bolt. Be sure it's staying good and flat and even. Again, left to right.
I have a 1967 flh electric glide with kick starter and mousetrap. It has been sitting for a longtime. It was running pretty good and it starts very easy. My problem is i don't know where the crankcase breather is and i have hose hanging down and oil is blowing out it. Icheck the primary and it was empty. Once i filled it started it up oil was blowing everywhere .from what i can see the front hose is on but i can't see where this one goes. I don't want to remove the inner primary. Just a note i let a supposed old timer screw with it since then trouble. Love ur videos. Thks.
Check all your hoses with the diagram in the service manual. What's happening is a very normal condition if the bike has been sitting too long. The oil from the tank, with the aid of gravity, fills the crankcase by slipping past a small ball check in the oil pump. When your bike has been sitting a long time, always put a pan under it when you start it up. Run it with the pan under it. It will ballance out and stop flooding the place. You may have to add oil, depending on how much you lost. Do not overfill. Consult your service manual.
Appreciatte your Videos Mike.. Question; after all is bolted together( primary too engine)..is there not some required shimming on the tranny to the mounting plate itself? Thanks in Advance.
If necessary, shimming is done to parallel the motor shaft and the transmission mainshaft before installing the inner primary. I'm assuming you're installing an aluminum primary. The trans should be loose to install the inner.
@@pacificmike9501I am so, and thanks again for the very informative vids. It's been close to 30 years since I messed with these let alone build one from scratch haha. Memory just not keeping up Thanks again.👍
Hi Mike, I have a 1976 bicentennial ironhead, the clutch basket is oval for this reason I have to leave the chain sluggish and it makes noise. Can you tell me if I can solve it by buying a used clutch basket? or are they all oval after a few years? Thank you
Are the 3 hoses just breather hoses or are those 3 hoses connect somewhere? I’m not finding where they go. I got a 75 shovel head in pieces from a friend I’m restoring. So I just need to know where the hoses go that are coming off the inner primary cover
thank you for the great video, Im about to install the inner on a complete rebuild with lots of money not only in the motor but the build itself ,I have subscribed and will turn to you and your vids, do you have a source you like for the baffle?
I don't remember where I got it, long time ago. I'm sure it's in the Harley parts book. It's a "late Shovel" part. So, I figured it was an improvement. How much benefit? I'm not sure. It's probably obsolete. I couldn't find it in V-Twin. I'm almost sorry we showed it. But, I'll keep my eyes open.
Hello Mike , I am installing a Cal-Products inner primary on my 81 FLH and it is much thicker than the old one . I cant use the little baffle that you talk about that uses the two studs on the front transmission mounts . Will it be ok to leave it out and what is the worst that can happen if I leave it off ? Thank you .
It's not necessary. You'll be fine. It just dispersed the air pressure out of the breather hose into the primary. Harley saw it as an improvement, so I used it.
I don't use silicone seal on 0-rings, usuallly a little grease. They should not be assembled dry, but shouldn't require sealant,. If you really need it, a little clear can be good.
That depends on the wheel you're using. If you'r using an old spoked hub with timken bearings, probably dished. I used a 2003 wheel off of a Screami' Eagle Roadking. It took a lot of trial and error, but, I got it. It used a flat sprocket with a 2.2something center hole.
@@pacificmike9501 i'm using a 80 FLH spoked wheel with fab kevin axle locators, GMA disc brake. did this back in the 70's but memory has faded. original dish (51)sprocket. waiting on swing arm from chrome shop to start putting together, thanks.
Mike, I stripped out a bolt hole on my transmission case, for my inner primary. How would you recommend fixing this problem? Heli-coil or Time-serts? Any help is appreciated. 2005 Dyna FXDC
I usually go with a helicoil. Really depends on the thickness around the hole. But Helicoil usually does it. Take it slow and it's not hard to do a nice job.
I am running a closed primary on a 1979 shovel with primary chain and original inner primary bearing from 1979 that appears to have no more wear than a brand new one I have here in it's new packaging so I plan to leave the original one in there. I have oil leak past the motor sprocket shaft bearing where its pressed into the left side engine case. no way to stop it. As a result, over time my primary oil level rise's. I was planning to soak my new fiber "Alto" clutch plate's in oil as Alto recommends in a semi wet clutch (first time I have done that in last 40 years of working on this shovel). I was also going to open up the hole on the bottom right of inner primary that was originally used to return primary oil back to engine for a now total lose system to keep the oil level in primary from getting to high. The only way I can see that oil get's to mainshaft bearing is splashing. Question: Am i making a mistake to oil soak those new Alto red eagle clutch plates before assembly? Also, will I maintain enough oil in the primary to keep chain and main shaft inner primary bearing splash lubed with the original oil return hole left open on bottom right of inner primary to control the oil level in there? Thank you for your reply.
These are all things I don't recommend. If it works for you, I'm all for it. But, I use the stock primary oiling system the bike came with. I run clutches dry unless I'm going to run them in a later "wet primary" system. Again, if this works for you, I certainly wouldn't criticize.
Yes, it is a 68 or 69 frame. It's a really nice one I bought from a friend and had to replace the original. I really wanted to run the early swingarm. I made everything to go with it, spacers, caliper mount, on and on.
Hello Pacific Mike, been trying to install my inner primary case on my 1983 FLH and have followed your instructions. I've been having issues with the tranny shaft after torquing down all the bolts. I can spin that shaft fairly easy but when I try to turn it after awhile, it will not turn, I have to loosen the bolts and I'll retry it with the same outcome. Any suggestions??? Thank You, Mike
It sounds like an alignment problem. Be sure the transmission is loose to move in the frame as you tighten the inner primary (that's all 5 bolts that hold the trans on the chassis). Tighten the trans down after the primary is tight to the trans case. Give that a try. Remember to keep twisting the trans mainshaft as you tighen things a little at a time. Also, be sure the bearing in the primary is in good shape.
Mike, Re: 81 FLH. I have the inner primary off and discovered the mainshaft bearing is loose in the seat. About 2 thousands clearance. I'm thinking its a little to loose to fix with a series of center punchs to raise the surface. Any sugestions for fix? Thanks Keith
Well, Of course, I can't see it from here. .002 should easily be fixed with the old "punch trick." But, if that doesn't do it, there's green loctite and there's new inner primaries. Remember, if you loctite it in, you may not be sure of it centering. So, when installing it, keep rotating the shaft as you tighten the bolts a little at a time to keep it centered. Be sure you're aware of what you have to do to remove that bearing next time. This is an ongoing issue. You'll find yourself getting very creative.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for the speedy reply and solid advice. This is definately an on going issue leading ultimately to a new inner. But creative is the more challenging/fun way to go. For now.
hey mike, first thanks for all your time you put into these vids for us . i want to block off the hose port the one down by the drain plug , what is the bolt size of that it feels threaded . i blocked off inner from the engine oil feed also , i have a chrome v twin aftermarket deal, i didnt even realize that was there! till the primary lube oil poured right back out onto my table! thanks mike
Hi, again want to tell you I like your videos. I have a couple of questions regarding the inner primary bearing. I have a 1983 FLH police bike. The bearing I am putting in has a seal on one side only, I have installed that with the seal facing towards the tranny, hope that's right. Should I grease that bearing before installing everything else? Just to note that the primary side of that bearing, you can not see the bearing themselves, just the metal that retains the bearings. Also, should a person grease the main shaft and that inner primary oil seal in the back before installation? I would ask my mechanic, but unfortunately he passed away a couple years ago. Thanks again for providing these videos. Mike
I think you're fine. Always lubing shafts and seals before sliding them together is a good thing. The earlier inner primaries used a seal on the outside and an open bearing on the inside. When I say "inside," I mean closest to trans. Then, they used a bearing that was sealed on both sides. If there is room, I try to use either bearing, but if there's room I put that seal on the trans side of the inner primary just to keep things as clean and neat as possible.
I have my inner primary off for a leaking shifter shaft seal. The 5 mounting fasteners are loose but the transmission doesn’t move at all. It will shake slightly from side to side but no movement front and back. I even took the nuts and bolt out and it still won’t move. The only thing I noticed is that I have mid control rear brake mounted to the kicker cover and the push rod goes to the master behind the cover. Maybe that shaft is preventing the transmission from moving back as it is currently all the way forward. Hopefully removing the rod frees it but if not I guess I will have to remove the trans and mounting plate to see what’s going on.
Update: I removed the brake pedal and now the transmission slides easily like in the video. Maybe this can help other guys working around mid controls. Thanks for your videos, you are a legend, I always see you mentioned in comments on other HD repair videos.
@@pacificmike9501 I have one that was impossible to get on so I grinded it down a little Just enough so I could beat it on. A couple months later I checked it and it slid right on and off, just short of being loose. I am afraid to put the inner primary back on with it on there now.
Aloha from the Big Island of Hawaii Mike! Can you please let me know where I can get that baffle that you installed in the inner primary vent hole? I have a 1980 FLH, 1340 that I just changed out the main seals on both the motor and transmission, thanks to your instructional video. I am putting it all back together now and I sure would like to add that vent hole baffle. Is it possibly called by another name? I cannot find it in any vintage catalog. Many Mahalo's for your awesome videos! Geno
@@pacificmike9501 Ok thanks. I will try that if not fabricate one to fit. Almost looks like a reversed FLH battery support bracket lol with maybe half inch or less spacing. I'll figure out and make one if I cannot find. Much respect! Geno...
Mike, I first saw the baffle last year when I watched this video and thought what a great idea. I couldn't find one on line in stock so I made one with tin snips and some 20 gauge brass sheet I had laying around. Takes about 15 minutes after you've made a cardboard template. I made one just recently for a bike I'm putting together this winter. Love your videos which inspire me to keep pushing myself. Please keep em coming.
Hi Mike, Quick question for you; the bearing that supports the mainshaft in the primary case...someone told me it was a slip fit, but I would think it would be an interference fit requiring a press. Please advise. Thank you.
Yes, it should press in so it doesn't spin in the case. If it is a loose fit, the backyard repair, which works real well is to use a center punch carefully and hammer some "pock" marks all the way around the inside of that bearing hole. Now press the bearing in and it won't move. You've basically raised a little metal each place you punched at the surface and the bearing will still center. Don't get too carried away and remember, that housing is aluminum, don't hit it hard and not too many times.
Thank you Mike. I know enough to ask. I just rebuilt my '47 Chief and with it I heated the primary in my oven to about 225* F and had the bearing in the freezer and pressed it in, so I thought it only right that the Harley should be the same. Would it be possible for me to contact you through email down the road if I had a question which required me sending you a pic to add clarity to a question? I promise not to bother you too much...lol.
The bearing in that Indian is fitted the way things were a long time ago. I love it. I really liked my '52 80 inch Chief I sold about 10 years ago. But that "inner primary" or "trans mainshaft support" bearing on your Harley doesn't have that kind of fit. It's a "light press" so it won't turn in the housing. Sorry, not set up for more than "comments" at this time. We'll have to address some issues a little at a time.
Morning Mike, Thanks for your assistance. I appreciate your help. I really like the Indian Chiefs, so I can see why you liked yours. The antiquated old flathead technology works for me...lol. I am having the big toe (first metatarsal joint) On my right foot fused today, so no work on the bikes for a while. I appreciate your offer of help very much. My email is d.newhall@hotmail.com
Hi Mike, my bike is a '69FLH and the bearing for it is OEM 9037 and is shielded it only on one side. Would you recommend using a newer style bearing that is shielded both sides and if you would, please advise a part number and manufacturer. Thank you.
Yes. It's a good idea to tighten things gradually, and, as you do so, occasionally twist the transmission mainshaft, so you know it is moving freely and not binding.
Hope all is well Mike, I wanted to run this buy you, "eliminating primery oil lines and add a quart of oil, if this would be logical. Reason, to eliminate possible oil leaks and clutch oil back to motor?
I think it is a bad idea. The primary won't hold it's oil. It's not designed to and won't. A lot of people try to put a "little" oil in there. It doesn't oil the chain well and it contaminates the clutch. A lot of clutches are made to run wet or dry. It means just that. You can run it full of oil or dry, not in between. I run mine the way it was designed to run. It works very well.
When I tighten my primary the transmission shaft wont spin. Looks like the large nut on the sprocket is getting snug against the primary and wont turn. Can you tell me what I might have wrong? Here?
Without knowing what the bike is (probably an early Shovelhead?), you might have either a Supernut (very thick), in which case, you'll need to change to a stock (much thinner) sprocket nut. Other than that, either the wrong sprocket, or possibly the sprocket is on "inside out." This happens on early Shovelheads. Again, I don't know for sure what you have.
Question about the oil lines. Is that line on the bottom right (facing the bike) a vent line? Or is it an actual feed line? My diagrams aren’t too clear (or I’m just mentally challenged). Thank you! Great video
Go to our homepage. Just go to RU-vid, type in pacific mike and our logo will come up and you click on "videos," then type in "Engine Oil Lines on a Shovelhead." You didn't say, but, I'm assuming you're doing a Shovelhead. Yes, the diagrams are difficult, so, I did a video.
Why when i adjust my clutch by the book, I can't get enough seperation on the plates to turn pressure plate by hand. 1973 shovel head well worn fiber disc, used springs, 4 speed trans. 5 fiber 4 steel. I guess is their anything other than adjustment ( cable, clutch rod) that can cause not enough seperation of plates.
I'm sorry I can't see it. But, you may have too thick a stack. Maybe one less fiber and one less steel? Again, it's difficult without seeing it. Maybe something is hanging it up. Watch the angle of the clutch arm. Set that distance 1/2" off of the starter. Are the studs on the clutch hub so warn than the plates are hanging up?
The easiest way to install the hoses is while you're installing the inner primary, to attach the hoses through the bike from the right side, through the bike to the left side, before sliding the housing in place. Then, once the housing is installed, trim to fit and hook them up to the motor. The breather hose and the return hose are 3/8" neoprene and the small line from the oil pump is 3/16", usually vacuum hose. If the primary is already installed, same procedure, except it's difficult to attach the lines to the housing, but, certainly doable with long pliers and a long screwdriver. I usually use a zip tie on the little feed line. Length is determined by how you run the lines. Please do them prettier than the factory did. The big hose in the middle is the breather which pressurizes the primary. This one is teed into the breather hose from the motor to the oil tank. The bottom one in the rear corner is the return line. The little one is the feed line from the oil pump. Please consult your service manual. Good question.
@@pacificmike9501 I've done that several times, but I can't find it. I thought you had one dedicated to installing the primary internals, but the only one I can find is this one that covers installation of the inner primary housing and then I find the one where you talk about adjusting the primary. I thought I remembered seeing one where you actually install the internals, but maybe I'm mistaken. If there is one, can you tell me what the title of it is?
Never mind Mike. I just saw where someone else asked the same basic question. Apparently, there isn't a video showing the installation of stock internal components. Thanks for all of the other great videos.
If you removed the inner without loosening the motor or transmission mount bolts could you just mount the inner as it came off...or still loosen the transmission and then bolt the primary back in sequence...
Breather where, on what model? Give me a year, a model, engine, transmission? Are we talking about a breather gear? Umbrella valves? Mesh breather in a Panhead crankcase?
@@pacificmike9501 You were installing a shovelhead inner primary. and you described a triangular plate that covered the breather hole and mounted on two of the studs. It prevented oil from blowing somewhere.
@@pacificmike9501 You were installing a shovelhead inner primary. and you described a triangular plate that covered the breather hole and mounted on two of the studs. It prevented oil from blowing somewhere.
Anyone have a link or part name for the breather hole blocker he using in this video? Im running a close belt drive and want to be sure oil's not getting in and on the belt.
If you're running a belt drive, the only oil would come from the lines you've probably already eliminated and a faulty oil seal at the motor. Replacing the motor seal, always replace the spacer that rides in that seal.
You know, I had never seen Bob Ross, so hearing that compliment before, I looked him up. What a compliment! I don't know if I can live up to it, but thank you!
Hey Mike get a lot of help from your video's an need your help that you have no video for that I can find, got a new Starter Housing for my 68 FLH, came with an uninstalled bearing, already knew it had to be pressed in, don't have a press so I tried the Caveman way, socket an dead blow hammer, sure you know how that turned out :( I installed it from the Primary side of the housing, just need to know if that is the side to press it in the new bearing I have on the way or the starter motor side of the housing when I find a press
@@pacificmike9501 right on Mike, waiting on my sprocket hardware to mount my rear tire so I can to her out for a bath before I put my primary an starter back on her, purchased Donny's Unauthorized Technical Guide cause my Service Manual an Clymer wasn't specific about that either an before I screw up the next one wanted to make sure
I don't know what you mean by "older" Shovelhead. This is a 77. The first big twin alternators came out in 1970. You'll have to check your service manual for the proper spec for your year. They made constant changes for a while. Mine is a three phase unit produced by Cycle Electric. If you have an old plug (for the two pin regulators), you can use it with a voltmeter to see what your AC output is. Again, check your service manual for specifics.
So what I meant was are you putting in a product with a higher Amperage rating, I think what I have heard from people is the factory Alternators didn't;t produce enough Amperage and a good update was a unit that produces more than stock? Wondering your opinion and if you put something in that produces more which one do you like and how much Amperage does it produce? Thanks.@@pacificmike9501
Hello Mike, Sorry to bother you, but this should be an easy question for you. I have actually never taken the oil tank out of my '69FLH with the inner primary in place; I have with it not being in place, but that is something different. It looks like to me if I am going to take it out with the inner primary in place that I will have to remove the battery and box, the starter and the clutch cable bracket...maybe the starter housing too and then remove the tank from the right side even though one would think that due to the mounting tabs it should come out from the left side, but I do not think there is clearance to bring it out on the left due to the inner primary. Is this correct that I need to bring it out from the right side? Thanks.
Thanks Mike, I appreciate your help. It's funny I rebuilt my '47 Chief and now doing this '69 FLH, but I am self taught and once in awhile you run into something that is not in a manual, so if you have never done something before you have to ask questions. Nice to have someone to do so. Take care.
I get it. The old Indian manuals left a lot out. When I was doing Indians, there were guys I could ask. And, I still come up with things I've not dealt with on Harleys. It goes on forever.
Thanks for your thoughts. I agree it goes on forever. Right now I was looking for the torque specs on the studs and bolts that hold the crankcase halves together on my '69FLH and I found specs for '70 and up, but nothing for '66-'69. I then started to look for similar specs for a pan since my shovel shares the same cases as the previous pan, but could not find anything there either. LOL. Take care.
I was taught to never put gasket sealer on that rubber O-Ring gasket that go's between inner primary and engine case. I'm getting ready to put my inner primary on and I am now second guessing my self.
Okay. Install it very carefully. The first rule to o-rings is, "Never install them dry." You'll run the risk of scuffing or "chafing" them. On that particular o-ring, I use a light coating of clear silicone. Try it any way you like and develop your own methods. No harm, no foul. I just share the way I do things. Hopefully, it's helpful.
Mike, I thought I had done this procedure properly. Apparently not. The lower ear with the bolt hole in it broke off the inner primary. Can this be welded provided I find the right welder to perform the task?
