Nope, doesn't play guitar because the nails on his left hand are also long which would make it impossible to press the strings to the fretboard. Cut those damn nails!
Interesting, I just looked that tool so I could see a picture of it. I typically tap it just do it just to make sure that it’s seated in. On some of these smaller bolts like the ones in the harmonic balancer I didn’t get the tool in deep enough and I stripped the inside out. Ever since that experience I’ve tapped a star bit just to make sure I was bottomed out. Sometimes on these head bolts when I tapped it it’s stuck so tight that when I remove the bolt I couldn’t remove the bolt from the tool very easily. I’m always nervous with these type of bolts because if they strip inside the head I can’t even imagine what it would take to get it out. Sometimes you can grab the outside with an extractor from Irwin. That’s what I ended up doing with a smaller bolt. Glad to hear your thoughts, I got to say that looks like a nice snap on Starbit
Or you can just use the proper tool... It's not a torx, it looks like it but it's not, it's a #10 polydrive meant for specifically those bolts unlike the torx the edges are squared off. Snap on sells it, matco, and you can find it at eBay Amazon by it's name, or ECS tuning.
First thing the cams and the pistons need to be aligned in correct Phassing/timing before the head is even placed on the block. If not timed properly you could immediately bend the valves . Crank at TDC/0 degrees and Cams on TDC timing marks.
Also, each head gasket manufacturer provides torque specifications. Victor Reinz head gaskets instructs torquing to 40 Nm, 60 Nm, 90 degrees, 90 degrees, for a total of four sequences. Use a breaker bar for the quarter turns.
What is the position of the crank and cam when installing? Should I put crank at TDC on the mark and the cam on the mark of compression stroke? Or do you turn the crank a few degrees btdc?
i have a 2007 a4 2.0 i just started it this morning amd a big white cloud came up, not sure if its my injectors or a head gasket problem, i replaced the valve cover gasket due to oil getting in the cylinders , i also experience heavy jerking when accelerating at times. any suggestions
hey cool video thanks but the headbolts on almost all of them ive seen is a polydrive 10mm..there about 40 bucks from snapon..or if you can just get the bit and put it in a 10mm they are only like 11 bucks the torx might fit though
the head bolts are not a torx head. They look similar. but they are not. You run the risk of stripping them if you use the torx. You need a special tool for those head bolts.
How long did the job take? Theres a guy selling a A4 Avant Wagon for 850 with a blown head gasket and im trying to see if its worth it or not, it comes with a head gasket kit and im trying to figure out if its worth it or not.
Depends on your skill level and if you have all the right tools. it’s a simple job… just have to be organized, meticulous, and the time. If you like the car enough (assuming you already made a decision as that was years ago but to help people thinking about it that read this) then I’d offer a little less and it would be worth it to me. All other things being as they should with the car (ie they didn’t keep running it overheating and such) it could be a good car with a fresh water pump/timing service (required to do the job properly) and fresh gaskets. Add a coolant flush, fresh plugs, metal coolant flanges and oil/filter change and it should be singing for a while.
It would if he used g12 coolant and didn’t sand metal into the cylinders. As others have said lots was done wrong here but if done correctly it can extend the life of these pretty great little engines for years more of service
The engine has a timing belt that K’NEX the crankshaft to the camshaft, since there are two camshaft on the engine The two camshaft are connected by a chain. Kind of weird but that’s how Volkswagen does it
It's not vvt, it's just normal DOHC. Cambelt drives the pulley at the front. The 2 cams are one for intake, one for exhaust and they're connected by the chain
I haven't done the head gasket but the timing belt, water pump and tensioner takes at least 8 hours (supposedly - it took me 14) so you'll probably want a couple of weekends set aside to be safe.
torx? no! poly drive? yes. green coolant? no! g40 coolant. yes. no high temp copper spray on gasket? no! copper spray? yes! this is just done all wrong! use copper spray on the exhaust manifold gasket also. do not use an aftermarket gasket. use the stock metal crush gasket. locktight the exhaust nuts, they expand and contract and will loosen up.
Typically the head is machine flat, to make sure that everything seals up. I’ve had a really good results with gluing three sheets of 120 grit sandpaper to a flat piece of glass. Then I move the head over the sandpaper until everything‘s shiny. Then I check The head for flatness with a good straight edge and feeler gauges. I’ve got some videos that I’ve done on this, there’s also a lot of other videos online on people doing this procedure. In the end I’ve had really good compression tests flattening the head this way.
