In this episode of Generic Garage, some Caltracs are installed on the Ranger in an attempt to gain traction from the rear wheels. Check out the install and see what difference the Caltracs make.
Good video. Some random thoughts. From an engineering standpoint I would put a triangle gusset in the corner right at the open 90 degree spot where you welded the explorer shock bracket to the calvert u bolt plate. If you drive this thing a lot that is a spot that is liable to crack eventually. Second I know the Explorer rear axle is the strongest of the bunch to fit a Ranger but damn there is just too much little stupid crap to make them 100% work in a Ranger. Seems like very few ever get the ebrake cables to work properly. I went with the standard 4 liter ranger 8.8 rear axle and Mustang disc brakes. So easy and it all works properly including the ebrake. Thirdly, I'm torn on putting caltracs on my v8 ranger as I kinda like doing burnouts at will lol. Lastly I ran my exhaust like yours with dumps at the axle for a couple months. It is deafening in the cab! I don't know how anyone can stand that. Great shots on showing the before and after!
Thanks! Good point about the gusset, I will likely look into more stuff like that when its time to paint the truck and I have it all apart. Likely when I box the frame, I will work on suspension stuff as well. My e-brake still isnt hooked up, lmfao. Was planning on cutting the two ends to overlap each other by a foot or so and then use a few threaded metal cable u-clamps to make it work. Put on the caltracs, you can still break it loose if you have the power and gearing for it. Yes, I hate the exhaust dump for that exact same reason. Plan to get it run out the back like it was before I did the axle swap and drop... but maybe closer to the bed and squished a bit for clearance. Appreciate the feedback! =)
@@eyegood38 I will have a video up pretty soon of how I crammed a full dual exhaust with x pipe, spintech mufflers, resonators, and over the axle tailpipes hopefully within the next week or two!
Your before and after shots of the springs under acceleration speak loudly. Plus the result. I switched from a open dif to a trac loc and was disappointed at gaining almost nothing in the way of traction. I know my tires are not great, but I was under the idea that cal tracs only kept the pinion angle fixed and didnt realize the degree that they also create traction.
Man I just found this video. I'm doing a turbo LS swap into my 2000 ranger 2wd and I just did the expo 8.8 swap. This answered a bunch of loose ends on this diff swap. The fact that the expo plates don't work is one answered question. A guy on Facebook told me about your video and he used some coilovers shock mounts in the stock location to reuse his ranger stock location shocks. He basically welded them up on the axle tube roughly where the expo plates sat and attached to the shocks. So I ordered those for like 25$ off Amazon. Your way I'd just as good if not better and free! you also answered the questions I had about how the caltracs install and mount on the 8.8 swap into a ranger as well. This video answered all questions! It looked as if you were trying to find some brackets for the shock mounts as well before you went the way you did. Which if these brackets I ordered don't work I'll go your way as well. One question is there any issues using the u bolts for the expo8.8 axle? You mentioned the caltracs were a narrower pattern for the expo u bolts to go through? Ok thanks a billion my friend on such a informative video.
Thanks for the kind words! The ubolts werent an issue in the end. its was just super tight. The brackets you are probably looking at on my 8.8 are actually for the explorer sway bar, which I have yet to install =P
This video was a huge help cheers from Australia 🇦🇺! Currently putting caltracs in my xc 351 ford ran into same sort of issues great watch abs thanks again mate .
@@eyegood38 Lol. Word, homey. But seriously, how about a little more on how to dial those caltracs in? (I've got a way overpowered minitruck that won't hook)
@@daviddavid5880 I need to dial em a bit once the 331 is running. Those bottom bars are a bit too angled. They should be relatively parallel with the ground. Gonna relocate the battery behind the rear end to help a bit too! I definitely have traction issues still. Stay tuned! =D
@@micowikstrom7182 Thanks a bunch! No new updates yet. Still working on getting the new 331 running, lol. You are absolutely correct. I was regurgitating information I read from the caltrac install instructions that says you want the bars parallel with the ground. With the leverage being further out, and thus making the lower bar parallel to the ground, it would cause less downward travel distance onto the leaf spring. More torque on the leafs, but less effect overall. I believe you are right in that a bit more preload would help! I definitely need new shocks back there, and they are coming once the 331 is running. I'm going to need all the traction I can get! =P cant wait to get it running with double the power! Stay tuned and I'll be sure to give an update on how well those caltracs work with some real power on em.
excellent video!! How did that conversion go? If I can stand welding? I have the same configuration as you and I am thinking of doing the same as you since there is no exact kit for this.. thanks for everything
That makes sense the kit does not match since The OEM Ranger shock mounts are on the axle not the plate. Even most Explorers are on the axle just in a different spot. I just bought a relocation kit for my Explorer 8.8 axle to put the plates and shock mounts back in the Ranger OEM spot. I will be putting a mild performance build 5.0 in my 92' Ranger possibly upgrading to a stroker and am very concerned about traction myself. These look like with some tuning would work perfect.
You are absolutely right. I didn't do my homework when I got the kit =P The kit was working great with the 306 in this video! But now that I have the 331 in there... I need more traction! Post yours when you get it going! =D
One other question. I noticed at the start you pressed out the factory bushing for the leafs if I don't have a shop press is there another way to do that?
maybe a bench vice some how? or a big hammer and a piece of round bar? Those presses are pretty affordable at harbor freight, and they come in handy for other stuff! Always good to invest in tools if you can use them =)
7704 works for the flipped axle, but ONLY IF you have somewhere to mount your shocks other than those plates. If you have an 8.8 and your shocks are mounted to the those u-bolt plates, then no, 7704 will not work (unless you cut and weld those shock tabs to the calvert plate, like I did). Hop under your truck and take a look at where your shock mount to be sure. If your shocks are mounted directly to the axle, then 7704 will work fine. 5:44 in the video explains =)
Thanks! if Im being honest, I still don't have the e-brake figured out. My plan right now, due to the fact that I ended up cutting the rear end brake cable half way off at the junkyard, is to tie the two ends, of my two current cables, together with some of those cable/u-bolt ties you can find at home depot. lol.
8:56 could I send you my same set up with the explorer mount and have you weld them together like you did here? I’ll pay you and pay the shipping both ways. I just lack the tools and skills currently to do so.
I am flattered you would ask. I can't say I'd be comfortable doing that, unfortunately. I wouldn't want that weighing on my mind if something went wrong. I am not a certified welder, nor am I an engineer, who can say with certainty, that what I did is structurally sound. Too much liability. Perhaps there is a shop or friend near you who can help? Maybe a local school with a shop class? Or even a community maker-space you can join? Sorry I can't help you out bud =( It's not something I am prepared to do at this time. If you've ever heard of RicksRangerz, maybe he could help out. Heck, he might even be able to make a new product out of this scenario. It seems like a lot of v8 ranger swap folks are looking for a direct bolt-on solution.
magnificent ranger, excellent explanation in the video thanks for sharing your knowledge, a question, what is the measure of the shims you put? leaf springs are from explorer? thanks for your answer in advance, greetings ...
Thanks a bunch! I appreciate it =) I'll have to double check, but I think those are huge shims. Something like 6 or 8 degrees. My angle was really far off. Probably should have cut and re-welded the mounts on the rear end. Leafs are still the stock ranger for now =P
Suggest some additional lighting while filming outside to help the viewers see things in more detail. Similar issues in other videos with lighting. Just looking to help the quality for the viewers. Overall, good video! Keep up the good work son!
I do not believe there is one. 7704 works for the flipped axle, but ONLY IF you have somewhere to mount your shocks other than those plates. If you have an 8.8 and your shocks are mounted to the those u-bolt plates, then no, 7704 will not work (unless you cut and weld those shock tabs to the calvert plate, like I did). If your shocks are mounted direct to your axle tubes, then the 7704 will work just fine.
@@SBS_Auto yeah, then you are "flipped". Stock, on my 88, has the axle under the leafs. flipped, for me, is over the leafs. If you call Calvert and ask them, they will probably tell you 7704 is the kit. BUT if your shocks mount like mine do to the plate, and your axle is on top of the leafs, then they are 100% wrong about 7704 working, cause there is no where to mount the shocks with the 7704 kit plates.
@@eyegood38 when I 1st put my djm kit on the back sat lower then the front.did u have that issue with yours?I had to add an add a leaf to it to make it sit level.not sure if my rear springs r weak or not.bought new springs now waiting on caltrac kit now.hoping new springs fixes the levelness so I can get rid of add a leaf
@@patrickdubuc3439 I dont believe I have that issue. Although, I do have angle blocks on my leafs to get my driveshaft angle right, so that actually lowers it a bit more in the back, but not very much. Guess I should go measure! =P
What kind of gap did u put from the roll pin to top of leaf springs?air gap like instructions says?I thought instructions say to put adjustable bar on with suspension all the way up with tires still off then put tires back on and put it back on the ground?
I cannot remember. I can go back and check my footage though. Being that this is the first time I installed one, I'm pretty sure I followed the directions. If my video suggests otherwise, I would still follow the instructions =P
I can definitely feel the difference. Totally worth it IMO. I'm going to see how it does in the next few weeks with double the HP an TQ from a 331, and then we will really know. I also plan to relocate my battery to right behind my diff, so maybe that will help a bit too. Need to get min dialed in for sure. I think the only thing that would be better is some sort of 4 link system, but thats way more work. How much power you putting down with your turbo setup?
