Installing Mellow Fly SB2040 on Voron Trident (Umbilical) 

Hello, If you look closer at 3:52 you will see the end result up-close. Using GNG was mistake because it keep fans running all the time. AGND stands for Analog-GND it allows fan control feature.

@@hobbyistnotes thanks! Will re-wire mine

@@davechuasoup My bad, I have learned the lesson of not adding the text explanation or some kind of warning that speed-up wiring portion of the video is wrong. Live and learn...

Yeah why not it's also a good solution! How is SB2040 temps treating you so far? Mine is quiet hot...

@@hobbyistnotes I've printed the sb2040 fan cover from printables and stuck heatsinks to the 2209 and the vreg coil, fan off temps go in the mid 80ies, with fan on - accurate ambient (in 13c ambient was able to drop all the way to 13). fan is a must, I use 3007 24v. btw, i run my can at 250k without any issues, infact, when bumping to 500k I constantly get reorder packets, this used to mess up the probe results and if the packet in question is to/from tmc2209 the print is ruined. not a single issue at 250k. input shaper calibration goes all the way to 133hz

Yes it is. 🤫

You are very welcome!

No, I am not using HV-in as I have klicky setup that uses only signal and ground. At the end to fix crashing we change: 1. Can Network Interface (RPi) 2.Rebuilding Firmware for SB2040 board 3.Rebuilding Firmware for Printer Control board (You can use RU-vid's slower speed feature to see commands and settings)

I think it depence what exactly we are trying to counter, I prefer to have more consistent Z height as play on Y axis doesn't bother me that much.

@@hobbyistnotes Ah okay, is there information/ tests about this? I have only every seen it opposite of the rail and on top only on dual rails.

@@janboerschlein Not really, it's just my semi-technical-educated guess. I can probably make some tests to see if it really matters. Actually I was making the video about those backers and my results were so inconclusive that I decide to not post it as got more questions than answers. In short: for my build with 1h heat soak, effect was barely noticeable at all and I got feeling it was complete waste of money.

@@hobbyistnotes yeah I think it's more of a prevention than anything. If you let your extrusions headsoak they won't change much over the course of the print. with bed_mesh you pretty much cancel out the effect then.

​@@janboerschlein My guess is that Trident has structure with more anchor points than Voron 2.4 and those backers will have way more effect on 2.4 as gaintry aren't really anchored as much.

www.printables.com/model/235931-voron-trident-a-drive-cable-cover-with-pg7-cable-g

In my case I had to make hole a bit larger and glued gland thread directly to it.

@@hobbyistnotes thank you for the link!

Hakko Omnivise PCB Holder (C1390C)

It definitely might also as far I know only CW2 has proper mounting.

Hello, those are 20T with stock motion system, may be camera makes them bigger 😵‍💫

@@hobbyistnotes thank you, I was in fact tripping hard

Here is cad for PG's: github.com/hartk1213/MISC/blob/main/Voron%20Mods/Voron%202-Trident/2.4/CW2_CAN_Umbilical/CAD/CW2_Umbilical.step

Y switch STL is in original Voron trident github repo: github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Trident/blob/main/STLs/Gantry/AB_Drive_Units/%5Ba%5D_y_endstop_housing.stl

Voron Trident A Drive Cable Cover: www.printables.com/model/235931-voron-trident-a-drive-cable-cover-with-pg7-cable-g

Voron Trident A Drive Cable Cover v2: www.printables.com/model/326623-voron-trident-wire-cover-w-pg7-cable-gland-adapter

Thank you but I can’t find the one you printed

Unfortunately the link for this part no longer available... I have tracked the guy who had this STL before but now he only has one for PG9: github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/Voron%20Mods/Voron%202-Trident/2.4/CW2_CAN_Umbilical. You can try and reach him directly. Also this mod might be a secondary option: www.printables.com/model/366499-voron-24-canbus-umbilical

@@hobbyistnotes Thanks for the author's source. You can always see the changes on the github, but I can’t post a link to the detail, RU-vid deletes it.

@@DarkSoulVenq oh yeah you right, I was focused to find an actual stl so blundered the fact GitHub is a version control system 😅 - funny as I use this tool on daily basis🤦🏻‍♂️

@@DarkSoulVenq After taking a look at commits repo has step file that actually contains PG7 and it looks exactly like: github.com/hartk1213/MISC/blob/main/Voron%20Mods/Voron%202-Trident/2.4/CW2_CAN_Umbilical/STLs/CW2/cw2_umbilical_cnlink0_threaded_mount_LP12.stl

Had to widen a hole a bit and just glued my PG7 to it with a supergue, I used: www.printables.com/model/235931-voron-trident-a-drive-cable-cover-with-pg7-cable-g

If you will run 5v fans and extruder motor driver from it, the board can heat up a lot, one of the weakest spots is 5v rail. Mine even with LEDs heats up pretty hot. If something goes wrong I will make an update video for sure, so far everything runs fine.

There could be one move set of wires for extruder motor. I just lazy to trust Mellow Fly SB2040's onboard driver.

Hakko Omnivise PCB Holder

Yes. You just have to mount it.

😋

That's would be mine, but I went sleep when he posted it :D

@@mad4acs212 😛

Translation: "I looked in slow motion, you disconnected it completely wrong Hef must be connected to 24v and agnd and your PCF must also be connected to agnd because these two ports are switched the way you have connected them now, it cannot be switched separately because the duration is gnd, so people be careful"

Good catch! You are completely right but that is why on 3:52 there is upclose shot of how it have to be soldered.