Seriously love your format. Straight to the point with no nonsense tips, no cursing and a class act family affair. I lost my dad 20 years ago and I greatly miss doing project with him. Jordan is lucky to have such a knowledgeable dad to learn from. Your video has given me some tips to watch out for when I tackle replacing the facia on our front porch this spring. I've learned a lot from your videos. I've been binge watching from the beginning while down with covid.
A couple really minor things but they might help you guys the next time. Using a cordless grinder with a zip disk can make cutting old nails a lot faster and do a better job. if there isnt room, go to your buzz saw. Also the cutting disc wont vibrate the nail and potentially cause a leak. And lastly if you are replacing the sub fascia anyways why not cut through it between the joists in the first cavity from the end of the board. The small piece will be easy to pry out and give you an easy leverage point for the rest of the board. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and making the rest of us just a little bit better!
Thank you for sharing all of this with us. My father had no sons so he taught all three of his daughters how to tackle jobs like this but sometimes we may forget or look for added or new upgraded information from individuals like yourself to help us work on our homes. It is nice to see how someone else handles a situation like this!
Great video. I love how your son, or whoever he is, asks the good questions. We all wish we could hire workers of this quality, but we never do and end up just trying to do DIY it.
The drip edge is the reason the fascia rotted to begin with. It was installed right against the facia. It should have been installed with a 3/8 -1/2" gap to keep surface tension and capillary action from pulling the water right into the board.
Really? So isn’t it also standard to overhang those shingles by about the same dimension? Is that the idea, to make the drip edge and shingles pretty much flush?
Hey, Elevator Guy from the North, love the rail scrap bridge. Sick use of old steel and keeps the history. though i can tell Paul didn't get a chance to use his laser on the alignment.
I found holding those sheathing nails with vise grips while cutting them makes the job easier, the multi tool has a tendency of vibrating the nails loose in the plywood potentially causing catastrophic shingle damage.
Watching you guys work, it’s clear that my “buzz saw” needs to spend a lot less time in it’s bag and a lot more time in my hands! In bought it to cut door jambs/casings to install some laminate flooring and kinda forgot about it after that job was done. You’ve reminded me that it’s got a million and one uses.
You go the extra mile. I am not sure if the fascia was rotted when the house was re-roofed but... it would have been a lot easier not having to deal with the drip edge then.
Hey guys, those rails tracks are pre civil war. I had been reading some info about the Civil War a while back and I remember it mentioning something about rail lines between Alabama and Georgia had different size tracks. This was probably because train lines were privately owned at the time and would provide services between two termination cities such as Montgomery, AL and Columbus, GA. I think they were referred to as spur lines, not sure though. Local transportation trolley cars my have also used the smaller gauge track. I think long distance transportation and shipping lines had already established use of a universal track size by this time. You might want to ask your local train enthusiast to get the actual history😊 Stay curious my friends.
Hey bud, Raleigh; buzz saw is a new one, Beaver,multitool, and I heard "whiner" once, thought they were talking about their guy in the truck. But never heard an Oscillating tool called a buzz saw, that one had been reserved for the nearest Circ in my short years lol. Great job tho, grab you a SuperSawzall and run an 6.0, or 8AH, no need for 12 unless you like heavy things, but ditch the cords! Also best thing I ever did was ditch the hose, milwaukee 2745-20 °30 framer, runs really really well, got the 44 ° 21 but rarely use it, either one get you extended mags
Hey guys, the bridge caught my attention. Rails come in numerous sizes and is identified by the casting on the webbing of the rail. It should have a year cast, and any other numbers typically identify the rail weight per yard. For example, many class 1 railroads use at least 120lb rail, which simply means each yard length of rail weighs 120lbs.
When I lived in Sebastopol I had a problem with kids knocking down my mail box as well as a neighbors. So, I used the auger on my tractor to dig a hole and instead of putting a post in I used an old railroad track that the neighbor had. I also welded up a steel box over the mail boxes. No more problems.
I had access to a pile of those rail road rails, about 30 ft high, at the 90 year old family recycling business. I used to use one forbicep curls in my home gym.
Love the way you identify your tools so that people who know very little can learn the language of the trade. If you supplied Amazon links for everything you use in each episode you'd be a bezillionaire very quickly.
On my house, the drip edge, fascia board, and fascia sub board were assembled as a unit, with the boards nailed together through the drip edge. To replace anything requires removing the assembly at the joint between one piece of drip edge and the next. Above that drip edge is the bottom surface of the plywood sheathing, and above that is a tile roof. So I had to figure out how to rebuild this mess in a different way. Loads of fun.
Hey Paul/Jordon love the videos. Anyway don't you think that it would be easier to trim the nails from the roof through the drip edge into the sub facia with your 4 1/2 grinder? Especially where you have the access. That was my choice.
I have that same dewalt multi tool. Do yourself a favor and invest in the Milwaukee fuel multi tool! Big difference between them in terms of power. Milwaukee’s is far better. And yes it cost $100 more but it’s worth it.
Great stuff; thank you. Do you know of a spray that will kill the mold on the existing boards? I know it's just a little mold but I think I would look into that.
Have the same crappy metal drip edge and it let’s most water onto facia ruining it . Will be replacing facia but will cut rafter ends a couple of degrees to add a slight inward finished angle which will protect the facia and provide better placement for the gutters. Adding different metal drip edge.
Great. Watched this few times. A question for you. And maybe a video idea 😊. A section of my house has no rafter tails sticking out but does have the facia. Seems like they were nailed from top of roof. How do you replace these without messing up with the roof? Thanks!
You North Americans have building with timber in your genes. You also have a wide range of building skills which we've lost in the UK. You'd need 10 different tradesmen only focusing on their specific area/job to build a house here, generally resulting in more expense, time, coordination and less quality/consistency. Anyway, you make a good, solid team.
Expat Brit here. What you call timber is lumber over here. Lumber is the stuff that's all processed: 2X4s etc; the places that make them are known as lumber mills. Timber is the stuff growing in the ground.
Great videos. Quick question for you, after you attach the fascia and you get ready to paint. What do you use to fill the nail holes? What will last the longest? I see some people using bondo, others using wood filler, some using caulking, on and on but what would you recommend?
Where y'all at? Did I hear someone mention Nola? Or y'all in Jefferson Parish? I've seen several of those RR bridges especially in the Hammond / Robert area.
Dig out that rotted spot and add epoxy or filler. Could always still add that extra wood as a backer.... But I'm a DIY and I know homeowners will go the extra mile
I use to like the old black and gray portcable saws all they was tuff could take a beating and still last you know if you had it for 20 years I still got my first craftsman saws all I got when I was 18 20 years ago I still have my craftsman cordless drill kit with drill saw saws all right angle drill oh can t forge t the light and lil. Vacuum anyways i it was my first big tool I paid like 500 for it 20 years ago still got it in corner in shed I do use the saw and saw all still when I’m doing outside trim or anything of staging saves on the up and down
Those are smaller rails from a yard, mainline rail is 5.5", 3" to 3.5" is low speed low weight rail. Its probably from the yard nearby as you said. Without text off the side of the rails theres not really a way to date it.
I need to replace a few of these fascia boards on my house. Looking at it, I was unable to imagine how to replace the nails that come through the sheathing into the top of the fascia. I've now watched quite a few of these fascia videos, trying to figure out how the pros do it, but no one does it. They cut off the nails and don't replace them. Doesn't this eliminate some of the strength from the original construction? I don't want to cut corners, but I also don;t want to disturb all the roofing materials in order to put it back together. Is this a tradeoff that the pros commonly make? Thanks @Stud Pack
I see you just asked the same question I'm sitting here asking myself after having watch this fine video. They look like professionals that really know what their doing but they say absolutely, positively, unashamedly...NOTHING...about replacing those sheathing nails that were attached to the rotted sub-fascia that they just removed. My only guess, and this is just a laymens guess since I don't even do this kind of work, is that since the sheathing boards are mostly still attached to the roof rafters that this is sufficient for the stability and integrity of the roof. But what the hell do I know, seriously? In the mid-west states losing 1-2% of your roofs strength to have brand new sub-fascia might be an "okay" sacrifice to make but in hurricane states losing that 1% of strength might be the difference between life and death. I just really wish they would have said something ... anything ... about that specific point.
I need you guys to come to my house! On the wavy roof where you installed new facia, how does the flashing help the uneven roof line? Did you shim between the facia and subfacia?
Thx Sara😊 The flashing only camouflages the wavy roof. We scribed the metal flashing to the existing drip edge. When you're on the ground looking up, your eye sees that the fascia is a consistent width all along the roof. Our flashing blends in with the drip edge that blends in with the roof shingles to trick the eye and minimize the effect of the wavy roof. We did not shim between the fascia and sub fascia. It was pretty straight that way. Hope that helps👍
looks like 115 pound rail. should have a year stamped on it.. I'm watching your older videos because you all have not dropped a new one in awhile. I'm worried.
I had a gutter guy tell me it wasn’t a good idea to use the PVC as the facia. I would think it would be the best way to go but he had some reason for it what are your thoughts I notice you’re using it
Before you got to the inside corner why didnt you cut out the couple of inches of rotted wood back further & sister in new wood instead of leaving the rotted wood.
That’s the sub fascia. I actually prefer a gap so it can dry better if it gets wet. Remember that the sub fascia is a nailer for the finished fascia. We made that tight 👍
Why does it incur water damage? I have a similar situation on an addition no more than 4 years old. Have proper drip edge etc...Is it just bad luck? Why not replace with hardiboard type material?
I have a piece of plywood (20 ft long) damaged about 5" from the drip edge. In theory, I know how to fix it. But, because the shingles are so good and I did not want to mesh with it. I removed some soffit and I could see some cracked at the bottom. So, how can I fix those cracks of the plywood?
@Sunshine - In order to get the channel creator's attention, because of the YT algorithm, you need to either ask your question on the most recent videos OR call attention to them to get through the algorithm by adding an "@" symbol before their channel name An example would be @StudPack followed by your question or whatever else you want to say.
As a channel creator myself using a different name because I have a different topic I'm wanting to discuss, I've learned to use these tricks to get past the algorithm. My own viewers used to complain I'm ignoring them, but I just wasn't seeing the comments on older videos. It's a YT algorithm thing, not my fault - you have to out smart the algorithm.
In my house, the drip edge is nailed to fascia directly. The one shown in this video seems not. What is the proper way to anchor drip edge? Can anyone commend on this.
