This was EXACTLY the info I was looking for all in one video. Thanks! I'm installing vinyl planks in our bathroom, and I'll need to install shoe molding. I just needed to know the details of how to cut it at the door frame (30 degrees) and how to finish it off to make it look professional. Thanks!
Thank you, I wasn’t exactly sure where to put the nailer. Your instructions were spot on!! My trim looks very professional with the new floor that was installed. Thanks 😊 again!!!
I really appreciate you having this video I haven't done shoe molding in a while and I was just double checking to make sure I was doing it right you're very specific very informative and to-the-point I appreciate your help have a great day good luck on your project Michael Reeves
Good information. I was not sure what length or gauge nail or the angle to shoot it into the molding. Very helpful. I’ve put so much work into my project and didn’t want to screw it up here at the finish line.
30 and 45 degree 1.25" nail and caulk better than how my home was originally built. Ryobi 18-Volt ONE+ AirStrike 18-Gauge works super for nails from 5/8 in. to 2 in. At first I went cheep and use hammer and nail set but it was harder to do it right. My home had staples on all 1/4 round so had to buy all new trim. Recommendation beg borrow or steal a Ryobi AirStrike with 2 in. nail you can put in windows frame or trim. Do not buy used or referb Ryobi AirStrike due to OEM QC issues.
Do you have a video on the pro and cons on the different types of material used for 1/4 round and shoe molding? When I go to the box store there are 5 different types (poplar, pine, pvc, Styrofoam and MDF. Finally, what is the best way to attach them when there are steel studs? Thanks
pre painted shoe molding ? did you buy it this way ,or paint it yourself ? i have to reinstall my painted shoe so i have to repaint them , and buy new for other rooms what do you suggest i paint first
I like to buy pre-painted or pre-paint the shoe molding before putting it up and then caulk the seam between the baseboard and the shoe molding, fill the holes and do touch up paint if needed. That way I get nice crisp transition to the floor.
The only thing I disagree with is caulking the nail holes. Once the caulk settles, you'll be able to still see the holes because it shrinks. You use spackling, holes will be invisible forever
I got the materials from Home Depot. Lowes also carries it. I like to use MDF as it does not shrink. I installed some moulding from a big box store and after 5 months, there were gaps at each seam due to the wood drying out and shrinking. MDF does not do that. Thanks for your comment!
You sure can! Just use a small finishing nail. Here is a tip--use cutting pliers to snip off the point on the nail and when you hammer it into the shoe or 1/4 round moulding it will not crack or split it! Would love to have you subscribe if you have not already! Happy building!!
Isn't your molding upside down? Isn't the long side of the profile supposed to go up on the wall and the short side of the shoe molding go on the floor???
It depends on what the situation is, like today I had to lay it long side down in a room because the base board I was laying against had a detail curve that the shoe went over and the shoe was too tall to lay the "right way" so I layed it the other way and it looked way better Other places you would lay it long side down is front door, garage doors, doorwalls and tile transitions. Sometimes you gotta lay it that way for it too look right
I just finished mine on top of cherry flooring. However, certain times of the day with temperature change, when I walk in the hallway, it’s now making an annoying creeking where it meets the hardwood. I sure hope that goes away after settling
Creaking always means movement between two materials. But what you can try to do is insert a thin Spackle blade underneath the trim and gently lift it up a little bit. That should relieve the downward pressure on the trim and floor. If you use the method where you put paper underneath the trim before you nail it in, that gives a natural space between the trim and the floor to minimize noise.
I keep reading that you need to leave a 1/4 inch gap between the planks and the wall/trimmings or the plank will eventually pop out due to temperature, however, I'm not seeing this from your installation. Thoughts?
This was EXACTLY the info I was looking for all in one video. Thanks! I'm installing vinyl planks in our bathroom, and I'll need to install shoe molding. I just needed to know the details of how to cut it at the door frame (30 degrees) and how to finish it off to make it look professional. Thanks!
