These videos are awesome. They save money and time. I now know why the chelated liquid iron I put on my lawn did nothing at all. Thanks. OK, this may seem like the height of ungratefulness (not sure if that is a word) but have you ever considered separating your warm season and cool season grass videos? Also perhaps a calendar that will give those of us without your vast knowledge, the year-long game plan you mentioned? Whether you do this or not thank you so much for your content. Both liked and subscribed.
Yes I have but have not figured out how to do it without a lot of overlap. I am trying to balance it. Not ungrateful at all. It's something I think about often.
It drives me a little nuts when I see inconsistent labels for the same product. You can see the label on the gallon jug calls for 1 pint (16 oz) /1000 ft2. www.amazon.com/dp/B0053NDZJW/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_EYNB0ZCN06ANCZGPMPDF?linkCode=ml2&tag=gregphil22-20
Mr Greg, before I was under the impression that "nitrogen drives the bus," but after doing my own soil test, I discovered my ph level was too alkaline. I know now why my soil (sandy loam) is compacted and my bermuda is turning yellow with some white leaf tips, giving the appearance of heat stress. I do keep a sharp blade. This explains the constant granular or liquid fertilizer applications showing results for two weeks and having to reapply. I learned a high ph doesn't let the soil absorb nutrients and a ph too low doesn't help with root development. Thanks for putting out these videos. I like the technical explanations.
thanks for the feedback. Lower ph generally will not inhibit root development. The tricky part is lowering pH. Much more difficult than raising it. I like to keep my soil around 6 that seems to be the sweet spot for nutrient availability. My next video likely will be on pH. Trying to do a video this time of year every Monday at 7 however, refinishing a floor in the house this weekend so will likely be Monday after next when it is up.
Great No Nonsense Channel! After looking at the nutrient availability chart, it looks to me like the sweet spot for pH, with the exception of iron, is 7.0 - 7.5. Why not have a pH goal in that range?
I found that Miller Chemical produces an EDDHA iron called Ferri Plus Iron 6% and label recommends their adjuvant Nu-Film 17 with rates and all for both.
Will look into it. If I go over 15 min it can take as much as 4 days to upload to RU-vid. I have Josh speed internet so it's not that. Perhaps there is an answer.
Thanks for the video. I used N-Ext GreeneEffect this year and had positive results. It has 7% nitrogen, 6% chelated Ferrous Sulfate and 10% Citric Acid. What are your thoughts on using Epsom Salt to promote greening of the lawn?
Epsom salt is basically magnesium sulfate. If you have a magnesium deficiency it could help but it's unlikely. University of Minnesota has a good article about some of the internet "cure alls" that are floating around. Saw one video where a guy put it on his lawn. Only explanation he gave for doing it was primarily to make the yard smell better. Did not really explain a good agronomist reason why he did it. I prefer foliar applications for micronutrient deficiencies. There are many available and easy to apply. Here is the UM article should you want to look into their take on it. extension.umn.edu/manage-soil-nutrients/coffee-grounds-eggshells-epsom-salts
@@GregPhillips.22 thanks again for the article. It’s funny the article also references egg shells. My mom used to put egg shells in our curry leaf plants growing up (along with rice water). Of course we never performed a soil test so who knows if it actually worked.
Publications used for this video. iron applications from Arizona extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1415.pdf turf.arizona.edu/tips398.html Golf Course Management article on Iron in Turfgrass. Specifically, golf course turf. gcmonline.com/course/environment/news/iron-fertilizers-soil-solubility University of Florida explaining the behavior of chelated iron in soils. edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/HS1208
I use chelated foliar at 8oz and get good color, peaking at 3 days. I've never blocked off a control patch for comparison though. The color benefit seems to be lost after mowing, I wonder if that explains your lack of results as well.
I have had several people ask about putting greens. It's really tougher than most folks think. It takes a reel mower. They cost $12k. Used $5k. Then there is mowing. At least 3x per week. If not it gets too long. Then with bentgrass the fungicides are rather expensive and what it legally available to homeowners is limited. I usually stear folks to synthetic putting greens. They are realistic, no maintenance and add value to a home. Plus less area to mow. 😀
Thanks for the video. I bought Ironite a couple of years ago before I knew more about it and its availability to the turf (I believed the marketing) with my soil pH here in Central TX being just under 7.0. I have yet to apply it...but based on what I've read and what you just spoke about, it's probably not going to make a difference anyway...so I just wasted that money. Perhaps I will apply it in May with an application of AMS (reduction of pH) as I've read rains "might" enhance Iron availability...or maybe its just the Nitrates in the rain that greens up the grass.
Will look more into AMS myself. My next "deep dive" will be a pH adjustment video. It takes a number of months to adjust pH so the sooner you put anything down likely the better. Since I am not familiar with AMS. Know they use it in the food industry to lower pH so likely a safe product. Then save the ironite in the spring with your 1st Nitrogen application. Plant will likely absorb more that way.
@@GregPhillips.22 Ammonium Sulfate (AMS) is supposed to reduce my pH...applied some Elemental Sulfur last spring to try and reduce pH and will do another soil test at the end of the season to see how the pH reduction efforts are going.
Thanks! Will check it Out. I try to find products that are at least available nationwide. Interesting they offer both chelated forms. Wonder that what the % is.
How can a home owner truly test soil ph? I use a brand of Aprea instruments ph meter. They sell a soil probe as well are they accurate in testing soil ph? I am also a gardener and bonsai amateur. So my soil ph is kind of important to me. I have fallen into the marketing trap from a particular company. They have a dedicated team on RU-vid marketing their products. There is the lawn care nut and others that push their products. I think they help understand turf better but I think that I have fallen for a lot of the marketing traps. It’s so hard to put down fertilizers not really knowing what’s going on in the soil. So my other main question is, are these DIY (my soil sold on Amazon) soils test a good option to see where your soil is? Or are they all in cahoots with all of these fertilizer companies? Thanks if you have any suggestions or advice for me thanks.
Land grant universities soil test very cheaply. Sometimes for free. They are "unbiased" and just give you the facts. Usually turn around time is a matter of days. What state do you live in? Will let you know which one does it in your state. Right now is the perfect time to soil test.
Most people who see a “response” are just seeing stained turf. And the derived from on the ironite showed to be oxidized…. Completely useless no matter your PH.
In the extreme circumstance someone had a pH below 6.5 and an iron deficiency you may get a bump from ironite. But for the most part, 100% agree with you.
