Is Audyssey Accurate?! How to Calibrate Your Home Theater the EASY Way 

*****I MADE A MISTAKE :( Class C weighting should be used for checking your speaker LEVELS. Class C is better suited for low to medium frequencies since it is flatter on the frequency response curve. Class A, on the other hand, is better suited for high frequencies and less accurate at lower frequencies. Sorry for the confusion. I hope this makes it out to all of you :)

If this is your first time with Dirac live Chris, what makes you so sure it’s going to be...”superior” to audyssey and the others out there?

I agree about the importance of calibration. I know a few people with good systems and when I tell them it's important to calibrate levels and distances they shrug it off like it doesn't make any difference. The answer might be "why? I hear sound in all speakers anyway" and I try to explain why but they don't seem to buy in the benefits which is, imo, a big waste of money. You might not hear when it's wrong but when you compare to when it's right you hear the big difference. If you don't bother with these kind of things I think it's better to just buy a soundbar or just crank the volume up on the tv's speakers tbh.

You should mention , the master volume on the preamp or receiver should be at 0. that helps a lot.

Never set the volume to 0db when setting up before. Sounds soooo much better. Many thanks for this, think I'll setup manually from now on

I use REW with Umik-1 calibrated mic with it's SPL feature

I juse the C - weighting dB meter measuring to measure so wide a response as possible when calibrating speaker level.

It may sound stupid to you, but I have to ask :) How much do you set the volume Knob on the AVR's remote while doing this manual measurement with SPL? I've read a few sources, they said 0, but when I bring it to zero from the remote, no sound comes out even if we increase it anyway, so I wanted to ask you the truth.

When you mentioned using the iPhone measurement tool I was gonna mention that it’s usual off by 1/4”-1”, but you did notice that. I do love that it gives that AR look to all your measurements though. One thing I don’t like about auto calibrating on my Denon AVR-x6300h is that my 2 subs weren’t as punchy as I wanted so I did bump up those speaker levels

Guys, I just setup my new Marantz AV7705 today (Just purchased and a 2nd SVS PB3000 subwoofer) using a Radio Shack SPL (Analog) if you can still find one. It should be setup at C weighted using slow response per Audioholics youtube video. I ran Audyssey auto calibration and when it was finished, I replaced the MIC on my tripod with my Radio Shack SPL Meter and set the Marantz master volume to 0db. I then adjusted all of the speaker trim levels to 75db. I then worked with SVS support to dial in the subwoofers. Now it sounds great. My next step is use REW to finish my subwoofer calibrations. I've never used REW before so it should be interesting. Good Luck Guys PM

Found this good when using SMS-1 & Rotel Quote: Originally Posted by craig john Hi Mark, If I may, I would like to elaborate here a little bit... (OK, well, maybe more than a "little bit!" ) First, the SMS-1 is a great device for helping to optimize subwoofer placement in the room prior to any EQ or calibration. To use it for this, just turn off the speakers and play only the sub. Disable all EQ in the SMS-1 and set everything else to baseline. Then place the mic at the primary LP and move the subwoofer around room while watching the FR on the OSD. Place the sub in the spot that measures the flattest without any EQ. This will make it much easier to EQ the system later, as you will need less cuts or boost to get a perfectly flat response. Second, when setting levels, there are 4 different level settings that need to be accounted for: 1. Master Volume Control 2. Subwoofer and Speaker Trims 3. SMS-1 Level 4. Subwoofer Level These will all interact and they all need to be taken into account prior to doing any calibrations or EQ. To set the levels, and then EQ the system with the SMS-1, I suggest the following progression: 1. Start by setting all trims in the receiver to 0. (We'll come back later and re-set these for calibration purposes, but for now, set them to 0.) 2. Set ALL speakers to Small AND all crossover frequencies to 80 Hz. Reasons: The SMS-1 expects the use of Bass Management, which is what you engage when you set the speakers to Small. Therefore, to get proper results from the SMS-1, you need to set the speakers to "Small" and engage BM. The SMS-1 can *only* EQ the subwoofer channel. It can NOT EQ the speakers. This is very important to realize. Any filters set above the crossover point will have little effect on the subwoofer output and minimal effect on the overall response. Limiting the range of the subwoofer channel by using a low crossover point, limits the range available for the SMS-1 to EQ. IOW, if you set a 60 Hz crossover, the SMS-1's EQ will only be effective to 60 Hz. Therefore, set the crossover as high as possible without localization of the subwoofer, which is almost always 80 Hz. Page 42 of your manual, (see below), describes the Bass Management scenarios for your receiver. You can either use a "global" crossover for all "Small" speakers and the sub, or your receiver allows for different crossover frequency settings for the subwoofer and the speakers. The subwoofer crossover is really just an LPF, whereas the global crossover is an LPF and an HPF at the same frequency. IMO, you should use the same frequency for the HPF on the speakers and the LPF on the sub. Therefore, I recommend you use the global crossover setting of 80 Hz, for all speakers and the subwoofer. Also, set the "Stereo" mode to "Speakers = Small". This will engage Bass Management for 2-channel sources and make your subwoofer active for 2-channel content. This is *very* important for optimal EQ with the SMS-1, as described below. The Phase Control on the SMS-1 is centered at 80 Hz. While it is better to use the receiver's distance setting to effect the response around the crossover point, if you do want to use the SMS-1's Phase Control, it will only be effective with an 80 Hz crossover. 3. Next, on the SMS-1, select Preset: Setup and set all EQ bands to 0. (A default reset is the easiest way to do this. See Page 41 of the SMS-1 User Manual, linked below.) 4. Set the SMS-1 Level to +15. Reason: This is the setting for "Unity Gain" in the SMS-1. The SMS-1 is not an amplifier. You don't want to use the SMS-1 to add gain to the signal. You want it to add or reduce the gain of various frequencies *relative* to the average level, but you don't want it to increase the overall average level. "Unity Gain" means that there is no gain across the device, and the output signal is the same level as the input signal.) 5. Set the Subwoofer Gain Level at it's lowest setting. (We'll turn it up later.) 6. Turn on the left front speaker test tone. Adjust the receiver's MVC so the left front speaker reads 75 dB* at the primary LP. This MVC setting will be the "Reference Level" setting from this point forward.** Remember it. 7. Without changing the MVC setting, shut off the left front speaker and turn on the subwoofer test tone. Turn up the gain on the subwoofer until the SPL meter at the primary LP reads 75 dB. The SMS-1 should also read an "average" level of about 75 dB. (Once you've set this, you should never need to adjust the subwoofer's gain setting again, unless you move the sub.) 8. Now, go back and calibrate all of the speakers to 75 dB at the primary LP. Use the receiver's trim controls as described on Page 43 & 44 of the manual. Once you've done this, your system is fully calibrated for levels, and all of the settings are optimized in each device. 9. Proceed with manual EQ with the SMS-1. Put the receiver into "Stereo" mode. EQ the sub in isolation, (with the speakers off or disconnected), getting it as flat as possible up to the rolloff point of the speaker/subwoofer crossover you set in the receiver. (Remember that in Step 2 above, we set the "Stereo" output to engage Bass Management. Even though the speakers are off here, the bass from the L/R channels will still be re-directed to the sub.) (Remember also that any slider bands set above the crossover point will be wasted, so move them all over into the range below the crossover point.) 10. Once the subwoofer is EQ'd, turn the subwoofer test tone back on and reset the level to 75 dB. However, this time use the SMS-1's level control to adjust the volume to 75 dB. This will reset the SMS-1 for exact Unity Gain. 11. Finally, turn the speakers back on and evaluate the response around crossover point. Adjust the subwoofer distance setting in the receiver to optimize the response around the crossover point. 12. Re-check the full system calibration to ensure all speakers and the sub are at 75 dB. Once you've done the entire process above, you'll have a fully calibrated system with optimized frequency response of the subwoofer. I suggest you try to live with that system for a few days or weeks. Some people are so used to a bloated or "hot" subwoofer level that they feel the bass is "missing" with a true "calibrated" and Eq'd level. Nonetheless, once they re-acclimate themselves to "flat" bass response, they begin to hear detail and articulation in the bass that was previously overwhelmed by bass bloat and boom. Having said that, some people just don't "like" a flat FR of the subwoofer, and they prefer a rising LF response. There is nothing wrong with that, and everyone is allowed their own preference. If you're one of those people, you have a few options. The first option is to just raise the MVC. This will raise the overall system output, but you should also get closer to the bass response you are looking for. (This also assumes that the rest of your system is up to the task. If it's not, don't try to get bass response at the expense of your speakers! ) If that is still not enough, and you want to raise the subwoofer's output above the rest of the system, I suggest you initiate the Submersive's DSP Program 2. This adds a rise in the response below about 40 Hz, with 3 dB added at about 20 Hz. This should add the feel and kick you are looking for. You can view the effect of Program 2 by watching the response on the SMS-1. It should look like a rising response above about 40 Hz. If that's *still* not enough, the third option is to raise the SMS-1's level. This will take you above "Unity Gain" on the SMS-1, but *judicious* use of the control should not be problematic. 3 to 6 dB of level increase should be taken in stride by the Submersive. If the above suggestions don't get you were you want to be, then the only hope for you is another Submersive or 2 or 3. Craig Footnotes from #6 above: *The Rotel uses -30 dBFS for it's test tones, so the test tones should read 75 dB on the SPL meter, ("Slow" setting and C-weighting.) **The Rotel appears to be a "relative" MVC, (it goes from 0, (Off), to positive numbers), as opposed to an "absolute" MVC, which sets Reference Level at 0, and negative level settings indicate the dB below Reference Level.

I use "c" weight and slow to get an accurate reading. If you use high instead it's very erratic. Great video!

Chales homies. I hella dig this video. I will adjust my speakers manually since I lost my mic that came with my Denon. Kudos for putting this well video.

The whole issue I see doing it manually and using advanced auto calibration Dirac Live, Audessey, MCACC Pro etc the other aspects of tuning like Phase corrections and alignment, standing wave corrections and a lot more that gets adjusted and also is dynamic in nature to adjust for source. Manual to me is only to fine tune the distances, the cross over settings etc, so will use it as additional verification step than main way of setting it up

I used Audessy, it had my distances way off... Once I fixed that, it sounded better... But I still prefer this method, for setting distances... I've yet to get a meter, but I will soon.

I absolutely love the B&W 600 S3 series. I still have the 604's from New in the same condition.

I have the same exact SPL meter I use C weighted and slow there is nothing on and no one's home when I do my test it's real erratic won't stay still enough to get a decent reading also I see no difference in slow or fast what settings do you have on the SLP meter besides c weighted and slow

I have and use a laser tape measure 😉

Didn’t see whether this was mentioned but Audyssey at least is temporarily disengaged when you run the test tones directly on the receiver. You need to instead use a disk with test tones like DVE or Spears and Munsil. It makes no sense to use the AVR when your calibration is disabled. Best to use the disk on your BD/UHD player with the calibration enabled.

I use a tape measure to measure my speaker distances and its pretty accurate. But once again great video HTD as always.

What level did you have your master volume at? When I turn mine down to 0.0 dB I can’t hear any pink noise from my Marantz.

Whilst filmed a while ago, still a great resource. Quick question with respect to setting subwoofer levels. Once set, do you ever find yourself needing to adjust the volume of your Svs via the Svs onboard amp?

I use to do all this manual BS, I found Audyssey measurements to be perfectly fine. Also it'll compensate for any DSP's or other sources of delay you might have in a sub for example.

Looking closer at your center, I can't tell if its angled. I have the same L/C/R with a PB 3000. I'm using the same stand and have my center on top with metal cones (flat side down x 4), that have rubber tips as supports to get the center a little higher and off the glass and inline with the tweeters of the mains. They came off an old pair of speaker stands I no longer use. Looks kinda cool. Also, I flipped the screens over on my mains and attached them upside down. Old screens from previous speakers have gotten tattered in the past from being stored in a closet somewhere:) Thanks again for all you do. Made a shopping list for some more tweaking of my gear/room based on this video and the the one you did for SoundAssured. .

why do you use 75db as a reference point?

I just used an SPL app on my phone that has a c weighted option it worked really good checked how sensitive it actually was and bringing it forward and back was reading more or less consistently

Hello, thank you for the great setup video. Question; I just setup in my bedroom (11x11) a Bose Acoustimass 5.1 system with an Onkyo TX-NR727 receiver. I ran Audyssey but I am still hearing more in the 2 back surround speakers. I have all speakers set to 60hz per Audyssey. Do I turn the db to a negative number? Example, if I have my center at -3.0db, front L&R at -7db, sub at -3db and the 2 rear speakers at -5db, is this a good setup? Or, should I turn the rear speaker db to 0db? Sorry for the long question, I am new to the home theater sound quality. Thank you!

Don't for get Rew has its gone generator you can run pink noise and set the -db off set to your needs to test. Then determine if low, medium, or high works best for your needs. Or with audyssey what volume you need to set the AVR at to be equal too. Example my x4200 was off like 4 db, but I also found out that the test tone also wasn't the same signal level. So determine what your base level is at of your avr or processor's pink/white noise.

I get different measurements from Audyssey on my Denon x7200wa, tape measure, and the app on my iPhone 11 Pro Max LOL. On the app, you feel a bump when you hit the anchor point, lol. Here are a couple of issues, Audyssey is setting timing with the measurements, especially the subs. I actually hold my mic while sitting on my LazyBoy. I use all 8 points of measurement, but they are all within the parameters of my chair. I’ve done the tripod thing, moving it around within 2 feet, frankly I’m getting better soundstage results with my method. Here is a question, with Denon & Marantz, they use one foot as 1.0-1.9, 2.0-2.9, 3.0-3.9, and so on. We all know that a foot is 12 inches and not 10. You may want to suggest people wear headphones while doing the test tone for setting up volume levels. 0.0 is extremely loud! My AT-M50x work great to protect my ears. I have done the measurements with my phone and gotten different distance results each time.

Audyssey got the distances withing a 1cm when i measured, even the atmos bouncer speakers where spot on. (well if you measured the distance from the speaker to the ceiling first) The Levels when tested were not as i wanted them. Why use the sketchy title ? Audyssey does EQ too.I don't understand the title.

I used C weighted slow to calibrate. I wonder would it be worth the trouble to go back and do it in A weighted? Some good info here, thanks for doing the video. Awesome setup you have.

I prefer manual calibration with db checker each speaker

Ugh I want those svs speakers but the center speaker doesn’t fit in my tv stand where I have my current center speaker :( lol Speaker is so massive

Love the setup and the idea of using the iOS tape measure. However I was confused what was being measured with the microphone and how you need to then make adjustments. Is it you just want all the speakers to be the same decibels so if it one speaker is lower you add decibels to it.? Thanks.

Is it possiable you can do a Dirac live set up the ones on line makes thing more confusing Thxs

what's your crossover frequency settings?

Hom much volume do u use when u make the calibration?

You mentioned your opinions on Audyssey calibration but didn’t mention the XT32 version that lets you set curves and filters. In my opinion Dirac Live, MiniDSP, REW are all superior than most AVR calibration systems but require a lot more time and are not simple. Audyssey XT32 is quite a bit more sophisticated than the takedown version or other AVR calibration systems (YPAO, MCACC) and got me great results in my difficult room, and let me do adjustments to my curves after the initial measurement with relative ease and all on my phone. I believe the convenience to performance ratio is quite high on Audyssey XT32 on top of being attached to some great hardware in the flagship to midrange Marantz/Denon lineup.

Home Theater Dude is kick'n it with tutorials. Another great one, easy to follow. More great information. I used you last video, to go from Atmos height, to Atmos overheads on my 5.2.2 system. Stayed with the same speakers, just moved them while following your video. Overheads in my room totally added a new dimension in sound. Thanks for the videos!

Isn't the point of measuring not the distance but how long it takes for the sound to reach that specific spot? That's why you run auto calibration then you can change levels accordingly

Was hoping you would do the subwoofer as well.

Great video! Why is the subwoofer distance always so off and farther than it actually is? Should I adjust it to actual distance I get from a tape measure? Thanks!

WHERE DID YOU PURCHASE YOUR PROJECTOR SCREEN , PLEASE

Odb on Denon and Msrantz means 75db? Not 80db? Why the scale is from -80 to +18? 0 should be 80db then!

Dear what master volume set on AVR. If set on 0 so no volume. I m using yamaha HTR 3072 AVR. If i set MV up to 75 DB then only SPl meter work

I have a Samsung s21 ultra not a iPhone will this work on my phone ?

Thank you for sharing this info. Extremely helpful!!

Thank you for this video, unfortunately the measure tool on the iPhone is not accurate. It’s always of by a couple of centimeters (Europe). And for audio, that’s a substantial difference. Room calibration software are always on point when it comes to distance measurements. Also two subwoofers on the front looks good, but is the worst placement for a good response. You are hearing a fraction of what these beasts can do. Why limit yourself?

Hi Chris I have a question to ask you I have a 7.1 home theater receiver and I'm having trouble getting my back surround speakers to work when I am watching a movie the speaker intocater on the receiver lights up as 6.1 and not 7.1 model number is pioneer vsx-1016txv and I have my side surround speakers and my back surround hookup up only to the back of the receiver and my center channel and left and right speakers are connected to a kenwood power amplifier and the front stage is connected to the pre output on the receiver with RCA cords and I went through the owners manual for the receiver and I can't seem to figure it out but I didn't have a chance to go through all the different surround settings like Dolby Surround Sound or DTS ETC and I am coming to ask you for your help as I am a big fan of your videos and I like the sound of your home theater system and hope you may please help to try to figure this problem I am having with my home theater system and I thank you in advance chris my name is Chris as well. 😊

So weather the volume is 1-100 or -100-0 is irrelevant. Volume scale is just that. A volume scale. So what does the " Reference volume scale" actually do for you that 1-100 can't?. I'd really like to know what you get out of it differently that the volume scale 1-100 can't do.

I just got the same SPL Meter but it has up and down arrows on it, do I need to change that? Default is 30 but if I click on the bottom arrow it changes it to under 80/70/60. Would that be the range?

I tried running Audyssey on my Nad M15HD Processor and it couldn’t tell if my speakers were properly in phase or not ... that was as far as I got I binned it off after that

I'm new here, is the goal when calibrating to get all the speakers to the same level? I have a Samsung Atmos soundbar

Can you use REW calibrate the speaker levels properly?

Great vid -- I have a meter coming today and am excited to do this calibration. I've done the Audyssey calibration and it set my speakers all in the range of -6.0 or lower. I find myself having to crank the master volume on the amplifier much higher now to get the punch and presence I want. I understand the meter is used to make sure all my speaker volumes are equal (same db level using the meter). Here is my question: what would happen if I boosted all the speaker levels up to say -2.0 or even 0? Will it allow my speakers and amp to work harder and produce more sound, or will it also screw up my Audyssey-imposed room corrections?

Hello have important question. Im found out that the normal room meseuring is absolute crap because of the Lack of prcessorpower of the denon avr. Just the multieq app can handle those mesure data. When i add the dynamiceq Future in the app and send this Settings top the avr the Sound ist absolutely nice!. The Problem is that denon do not enough to Tell that this is important for this lovely Sound. Why is that.? They put a product in the Market that could be a ferarri but its only a Ford...... with the regular mesurement. Do You have similar experiance with that?

When you're fixing your db levels what volume do you have it set to? My volume is really low when I turn test tones to level match.

what volume does the receiver need to be on when testing speakers and how many db does the meter need to read?

Awesome setup, maybe upgrade center to SVS Ultra too keep up with monster subs!

Should your receiver be set to maximum volume when doing the reading ?

Well done demo/video and info thank you.......... UK

Dirac Live been out like 15yrs, surprised you haven't tried it or gotten a demo yet ?

Hi what do you set your svs sub in the eq paramtric in the app which has 3 settings ?

what decibel level are you adjusting speaker level to? 75?

Thank you Chris for these excellent videos. Would you mind doing videos on SVS app and setup on minidsp mic.

How do you change the range to 70 on this spl meter?

Why is the screen and projection so low it casts on the AvR and equipments ?

Is it normal to have speaker level differences of 1db or more between left and right. I ask because Audyssey keeps picking up one speaker as always being quieter. I notice you have set your speakers different levels. Should it be identical if room is symetrical and cables etc are same?

Thanks for the video. I have a marantz av receiver. A few years old but does everything I need. It has Audysey (complete with cardboard mike stand... What is that all about??). If I notice the auto room correction gets the speaker distance/crossover slightly wrong: can I tweak the measurements myself (using tape measure and dB meter) and still get the Audyssey working correctly? Or is Audyssey locked to the measurements it took?

how much do you set the volume gain before setting it to 75? like the master volume in general

Good . I m using Yamaha HTR 3072. Pl suggest what Master Volume to be set on AVR while using SPL Meter for setting DB Level. My MV start from 1 to 100 or if I select DB than it show in DB. If I set MV on 0 than SPL meter is not giving any effect in case of MV 1 to 100. If I set it on 60 to 65 than SPL meter start giving effect. If I changed MV in DB and set it to 0 than I have to set DB level in minus or more than -10 but there is -10 is max level. For achieving 75 DB level on speaker 60 to 65 MV is giving result. So pl suggest n reply what to do? I m not happy with YAPO result. My Flat area is 120 sq feet. All bookshelf speakers and Sub woofer r from Yamaha. 5.1 system. YAPO is OK for distance only

How much did you pay for your DB meter? Which one did you get?

hello I have a question what is the ideal reference volume of the receiver to reach 80db

Great video, what’s the target for C weighted for subs? Still 75db?

"When ever it comes out I'm sure it's going to be far superior to the other things that are technically on the market right now" What makes you so sure?

Did I miss the part where he comments on how accurate "Audyssey" is? This is just a setup video. I was looking for a detailed review of the Audyssey results....waste of time.

Hello again. I love your set and hope to hit that mark someday. Why do you have your center speaker sitting lower than the tweeters on your mains?

Get a laser measurement. It'll be your best friend :)

I bought the sound level meter per the video and it seems like even at +12 (speaker channel setting) on my front, centers, and sub it doesnt get to 75db's. I am about 11 ft away from the fronts, center, and sub. Fronts and center are set to small.

I wonder if people that have a lot of problems with auto distances have odd reflection or dead spots in their rooms.

Hi great video , can you make a video on how to manual calibrate when you have amplifier separate's per channel , like me a have dolby atmos set up so I have 8 separate amplifier's plus bi-amp the tweeter's I would gladly appreciate it thanks.

Before I run YPAO should I set my receiver main volume to 0.0?

My test tone makes noise ?

What speed should I be testing at? My meter has fast or slow

Hello, I have a Marantz sr8012 and my front left and right tower speakers are 9.11 feet away from my listening position. The speaker distance in the Marantz menu only goes up to 9.9 feet and then changes to 10 feet, so no 9.10 or 9.11 feet. If my distance is 9.11 feet should I set my distance to 10 feet or 9.9 feet? Hope you understand my ramble! Thank You!

I have that same digital meter I use same 1 to set my level on my speakers 🏆🏆🏆🥇🥇🥇

I'm new to this and had a question about A Weighted vs C Weighted. I've seen many say use C Weighted for home theater including the Subwoofer. Is there a major difference? Is one better than the other? Also I have a Yamaha and I used Ypao to configure my room and speaker distances for me and it automatically adjusted the volume for each speaker. Should I then afterwards use an SPL meter to readjust the volume to 75db after the Yamaha does its own automatic settings? I manually went back in and changed all my speakers to SMALL and I set the crossover to 80hz already.

How much volume do u use when u make the calibration?

Which brand is your equipment rack?

Soooo.. you either calibrate using a microphone.. or a microphone..

How do you level the gain on dual subs? Do I set the av level to 0 and then use the SPL to measure one sub at a time. And set them to 75 db, and then turn both on and use again the SPL to get them at 75? Do i make since lol

What was the electronic instrument used to measure the distance of speakers?

What about the delay of each speaker ×1.1308?

Hey , Chris. Have you had any out of phase issues before with the Ultra Towers? I’m having this issue and I have my wiring correct and ran it twice with the same issue. Does it matter if I use the top terminals on the towers?

Isn’t the standard for big theaters to calibrate at 85db? I got mine at 85 😬should I go down to 75db?

i have a pioneer sclx87 and a 7.0 set up i have 6 matching tower speakers and the matching center speaker ..i have set correct distance and set at 75db ...however i have uneaven sound still ..suround left ,suround back left are queter still...roughly same front left and right....the right side suround is realy bassy and back right is less bassy... pritty wierd to say my room is almost a perfect square ..any help would be greatly apreciated

I LIKE IT!! Another Great Review!!!

My God! you got some Serious subs bro!

Nice informative video 😃

Did you find any differences in sound on the Emotiva vs the Parasound?