Every time I see an ender clone, I realize how much I have changed in my Ender 3 V2. Damn. - installed Klipper - added a bltouch - switched to belts for the Z axis, no lead screw :) - added a BMG style extruder Soon to add a direct drive and then it will be the perfect printer
Still far from perfect though ... I moved from a modified Ender 3 (pro) to a (also modified) core xy Sapphire Plus and that's just such a big step forward that I hardly ever use my Ender 3 anymore. I guess a Voron 2.4 would be another big step up, but that's still a bit too much investment for me currently.
Sovol is one of my favorite printer brands. My SV02 was 260 dollars (same as an ender v2), but it has dual lead screws and is dual extruder. They also sell an IDEX for only 530 or so, and I've been meaning to get that
Trust me, PVA isn't worth it. It's really needy in terms of temperature and humidity settings, and is one of the few materials that doesn't like dual extrusion. It hates being held at a near-Tg temperature while in standby and left cooking in the hot end. The end result is a mess, and the types of supports that it forms isn't really needed on most models.
@@matteoparenti741 I hear ya. I just really want dual extruders anyway. Because of the higher cost of PVA, I was thinking that it would be great if slices could only use PVA where it touches the model & use the primary for the rest of the supports.
I watched auroratech's sv04 vid the other day and she used PETG as supports for PLA. This is something I am 100% going to try, watch this space. Oh I also have a roll of PVA waiting on standby! Hey this is starting to sound like a whole video in itself
Just waiting for mine new one to get here. Amazon will be delivering it in a couple of hours. it is replacing my Aquila 2x that shorted out. My fault. I will have 2 to start with soon. I am really looking forward to getting toi know this machine. Thank you for youe video it was very good.
I could see the board getting upgraded to and SKR E3 V3 and have 2 Z stepper drivers so gantry levelling wouldn't be a problem. Anyway, I never considered this printed but now I kinda do !
Nice to see the dual z screws becoming standard. My Ender 3 V2 output was never reliable until I added the second screw for the other side. No more drooping of the print arm. Might be nice to try direct drive now, the bowden tube set up is just always something that needs to be fiddled with, and worried about. What is that clicking noise? Oh yeah. Extruder gears eating each other... sigh.
I think the standard titan clicking noise is the large gear inside the big resonant chamber it sits in, with a bit of slop on its center shaft. I should investigate, it could make for an interesting (haha) video. Defo not the gears eating each other, I know _that_ sound well haha. I agree on the dual z screws, it's so nice not to have to worry about the right side dropping if everything isn't tightened to 100Nm or something
@@LostInTech3D Oh, no, still have the stock Ender V2 extruder motor with a dual gear drive I bought off Amazon, for dealing with squishy filaments. I've not dipped my newbie toes in direct drive yet.
@@LostInTech3D I use some high pressure gear grease for race cars. The smallest amount possible so that it does not migrate onto anything else, after re-torqueing the fasteners.
I am surprised that most printers still only come with one direction of part cooling, I have had to audition loads of different cooling options before finding one that works, to a certain extent manufacturers still have the "That will do" mentality.
I feel like the number of fans doesn't matter as much as the design, I've seen some fairly average cooling from dual fans. But yeah definitely a low priority, one of the first things you can do to improve a machine is print a new duct
@@LostInTech3D Its not so much dual fans as dual ducts, on all my machines I have had to at least fit dual ducts to stop one corner of the parts I print having a scabby corner, the dual duct fixed this issue, and if I am getting this issue then others definetly are
Seems like another good printer, I'm glad that era of painful printers recommended for beginners has ended, I guess enders has ended it finally. But I'm curious about linear advance on that board, isn't it supposed to not be working?..
I look at this..then at the Sidewinder x2..then go back and forth. How does the X2 perform long term (i believe you.ve had it for a while?). Im kinda tempted to get one, put an all metal heatbreak on it, 0.6mm nozzle and make it my 'PETG machine' for functional parts. My Ender 5 plus and Flashforge Finder are great for other stuff but on the X2 the bed isnt removable..so what if PETG sticks too well? I know im off the subject here but I blame it on the heatwave. Keep up the good work btw, I.ve learned so much from you!
Yeah the non removable bed thing is still the only downside to the X2, no way would I try PETG on it! If it literally cracked you're kind of stuck! I'm planning, have been planning for a while, to do an "artillery X2 after 6 months" video, but at the moment I'm kind of behind on videos so it keeps getting pushed back!
Great review man. Pretty decent machine too! I recently put a second z axis on my e3v2 and was wondering how easy they can get out of sync without a timing belt as well
@@LostInTech3D It's good so far, I have the z screw nuts that can bend and added a POM backlash nut on the new side which seems to work out well enough.
@@LostInTech3D Could (most likely won't :/ ) be mixed-material, though not sure if _that_ would work. ABS/PETG - maybe (similar temperature if PETG would stick with ABS); PLA with PETG or ABS - not so sure what would happen :D
For me the sprite extruder on the Ender 3 s1 simply looks much better, don't know if it also is better. Dual z screws without belt seems a bit sketchy to me. Otherwise this and other sovol printers look quite promising, I'm playing with the thought of buying the sv04 which looks quite cool
It's actually mostly fine without the belts, I guess because the load is balanced between the screws or something but I guess time will tell on that! Oh yes, the sv04 😉👍 do you have any unanswered questions or any ideas of something to test or see on it?
@@LostInTech3D for me it would primarily of interest what you have to consider when working with such a printer since IDEX printers are not that popular. Mainly what is different in the software, I've seen that there are some more options than with a normal printer. Also how to set up such a printer with the different modes (dual, mirror, copy mode etc.) in the slicer
I don't understand the complaint on the gantry needing leveling. Just stick the G34 (or what was it again? I'm using Klipper in the meanwhile and tend to forget the G-code numbers) just after homing (G28) in your start G-code and you'll always have a nicely leveled playing field (at least in X direction). Complaining about that is like complaining about a Voron 2.4 being able to freely tilt its gantry to ensure it being level. That's not something to complain about, that's a kick-ass feature!
@@LostInTech3D But G34 will make them nicely leveled every print - level with the buildsurface that is, since that's what your probe is measuring against. If anything, with a bed-slinger, you then still need to ensure your bed is level and square with the z-axis.
@@kimmotoivanen Then that is the problem. If you have 2 z-steppers, you want 2 separate z-drivers. With boards like the cheap Robin nano's offering what's needed for that, there's no excuse to only have 4 drivers.
Most (all) machines I've reviewed that use the robin nano are single driver Z. The simple fact is it works adequately, so there's no huge motivation to pursue perfection.
@@LostInTech3D There are a lot of advantages to an all metal hotend and it has actually nothing to do with nylon(not even need that for that filament)....anyway its a decent printer and probably one of the best budgets you can get.
@@LostInTech3D just starting in on your videos. The time, electric. Wear, and small losses for each color change. Working my way down the playlist probably starting with a sv04
I should do a vid about this, usually you would level the gantry if appropriate, THEN manually level the screws, THEN generate a bed mesh and finally the z offset on the center point of the bed, making sure the mesh is loaded (so during a print or straight after probing)
Oh - I haven't yet, but I can do. If you want to make one in the meantime, all it should need is to change: line width: 0.6mm line height: about 0.3mm should do and importantly check the flow rate in the cura preview tab (select to show flow rate) and best to keep it below a max of about 12 or so, by slowing down print speed. 👍
@@LostInTech3D my main issue I'm running into is supports ,they either fuse or break , and when using tree sometimes doesn't go everywhere they need to even if make the angle bigger or the supports literally go inside the print and fuse within,
Can these types of manufacturing focused companies invest a few minutes to improve their typography. What's the purpose of branding the print bed with such ugly text?
