Great video. I removed mine in my 95 mustang gt. The hoses were completely rotted. And removing it and all the nonsense removed around 8 lbs from the front end.
Man thanks for your instructions, I have a '97 Mark 8 and mine is on the bottom of the spare tire well. I am needing to eliminate mine ASAP because one side of the steel brackets holding it on are rusted off and it is hanging from the other 2. I really like your instructions for venting the old supply hose, because I heard that if you don't, that the fumes in the tank won't allow you to gas up the car. Like I said, trashing mine is a must b\c you can't buy the steel tray bracket mine is in & it is rusted out & ready to fall off. I have saw online that the prob of the Evap holder rusting out was a major issue on 90's Taurus' & Marks. I've had this car 20 yrs and that is the only rusty thing on mine though, the body is in great shape.
@@SonyaSlidez I ghetto rigged a generic PCV valve because they act as a check valve. If I had to guess it’s bigger than a normal vacuum line like 1/2” or so?
danger of doing this is that you wont get your CELs for anything major that happens like knock count or something that you need to stop driving for. just my thoughts on it.
Your knock sensor? That is a completely different system. This would just throw a cel for evap sensor. No performance gain for having it. Just something else to break, and something else to get slapped by a blown tire.
I can think of a few more benefits. When that canister fails it pushes the tiny charcoal pieces throughout the fuel lines clogging up several other EVAP parts of the useless system. That means having to drop the tank and clear the lines all the way to the engine. Older cars never had this useless system designed to keep mechanics and dealers in business. I think I would route the filter you installed higher up by the filler neck or it will continuously clog.
I know that I'm a little bit late to the party here, but is there any repercussion to removing the solenoid for the evap canister that's attached to the back of the intake manifold? I'm currently putting a VQ in a little old 280ZX, and I obviously don't have the canister anymore, so I'm curious if I can remove that and clean up things from the engine bay.
I haven’t tried unplugging it! It’s not doing anything with the way I have the vacuum Lines plugged but I’m not sure if unplugging it will do anything. I’ll try that next because I’d like to get rid of it as well lol!
Im doing an ls swap and was curious if i could just hide the evap hose thats in the engine bay from factory but keep the canister and it would keep smell down?
@tonycrispin would I still need the filter at rear or is that only if canister is removed? Also could I just cut the evap line or would I need to plug it?
Great video! I'm not a mechanic or a car enthusiast or anything... just a saab owner needing to access the carbon canister and possibly replace it or any cracked tubes going to the throttle. My question is the equipment you are using to slightly elevate your car... is that a portable car jack or something? And looks like you are balancing it out with a metal triangle support toward the driver side? I don't know what you call that but are you using 2 triangle supports with the car jack... one on each side? Do you have a video on getting a solid mini lift on your car at home in your garage? Thanks for the great video!! It's helping a rookie like me.
Just a normal floor jack and jack stands! Once you get the car up on the floor jack you'll want a jack stand on each side to make sure the car is stable in the air. Most auto parts stores, or Harbor Freight sells both floor jacks and jack stands!
I used a generic PCV valve. The size was slightly too small but I made it work. If I were to order a specific one way valve I’d probably get something around 3/4”
I always wondered if it was dangerous letting the fuel tank fumes straight out. Like if someone lights a smoke next to the car is there a danger of an explosion?
In theory it’s only there to prevent fuel from spilling out in the event of a rollover or something crazy. And whatever size your line is! I forget exactly what mine was 1/2” maybe? Lol
@@tonycrispin yea I get that but some of these are directional so I wondering if you put it this way ⬅️ towards fuel pump or ➡️ towards that little filter.
Do you get any CEL?? My drift Z was hit in the rear so the lines to the canister snapped off. And after about a long drive or multiple short drives I will get a CEL for a large evap leak.
Make your life easier, remove the entire fuel regulator and bracket on the passanger side. The fuel regulator can just be bolted directly to the fuel rail just like the driver side. Opens up so much space.
@tonycrispin no problem man. I've had mine setup that way for 2 years. No issue. Wanted to eliminate as many failure points as possible. Its crazy how much useless garbage nissan put on these cars.
