I must tell you, I followed your directions to the letter, created my graphics using Illustrator which I am fortunate to use everyday in my work so I am well versed in creating crisp vectors and I am happy to report, with your instruction and material breakdown I got it right on the first try and created some absolutely stunning decals for my project. So fine in fact I think I will be making my own for all my projects moving forward as they far surpass any that I have got with a model or purchased separately. Thanks a ton for this tutorial, it took all the guesswork and spinkster clenching out of it! You Da Man!
What a really informative video. I'm creating a model railway layout and wanted to customise my existing rolling stock to match the mythical location I've created, and the traffic it's likely to see. You've given me the advice I needed to just do what I want.
Thanks, this has been the most comprehensive video I've seen on the topic yet. In the 7 years since you've made this, there are still extremely few decent and explanatory videos out there. Most are shite and substitute production values for substance. At least yours spends time on the pertinent details.👍
I've had fairly good success removing dried decals, prior to applying the finishing clear coating, by re-soaking the decal with Micro Sol, giving it a couple of minutes soak time ( re-applying as necessary, to keep it wet ). they usually come right off, with no damage to the model surface.
These two DIY decal segments are what I've needed. I have a 1/72 B-17 I want to model after the plane my father-in-law flew over Europe in WW II. There are no commercially available decals for 42-31577, the Aquila. You have helped me solve that problem. Much thanks!
Thanks Will. I have been looking for and watching youtube videos about making your own decals. Your presentation by are has been the best so far. In fact I may not need to look any further. I have subbed to your channel. Thanks, very informative!
thanks for the great videos, teaching myself GIMP, need to make some custom 1/114 decals for a cheap die-cast Spitfire my friend bought. using her initials for the squad letters. I'll be making some decal water for the bench and buying that fixative. love that you share your full experience and process, that's rare and incredibly helpful.
Will, Thanks for a great instructional video set...I too have tried several of the products you demonstrated. I have 2 scale RC planes, a TBF and an SBD that I am working on and will need a lot of scale decals.
Keep doing what your doing. This is the 3rd vid I've watched on decal making an as yet, the only one that is not going to be trashed from my favorites tool bar. Thanks for not cutting your bloops & blunders. Most do acting like nothing ever goes wrong. I just hate that. You, on the other hand, leave them in so others can see what might go wrong. Thanks for all the valuable info. I bought testors decal maker 6 last year and just now getting around to learning about it. Mainly because I'm not that tech savvy. Going to watch Chris&Alex's later this p.m.
Thanks, answer a few points. I'm a figure modeller and was wondering how I was going to add tattoos and the like to the figures, instead of painting them on. So now I can preprint off an A4 sheet of the item required for my batch of the figure. Saving time and most importantly upping the finish quality
Thanks for your vids Will. I have a 1/48 A20 Havoc and B25 Mitchell which I don't have the appropriate nose art for with commercial decals. So might seriously give your techniques a try. Cheers Jim.
Thanks for the videos. I realize this an old video, but I do have a question. You mentioned some use paint, but didn't elaborate. I'm in a different world and know almost nothing about decals and I'd like to replicated an old Millers Falls decal to put on old hand tools. Can you tell me the kind of paint that can be used? I ask because the decal has a metallic bronze color in it and I'm dubious it can be done on a printer (?). I'd have hope I can find a paint, however. Thanks again and you do amazing work.
I can't wait to do some far out graphics on my scale models thanks to the information you were so generous with here! I'm thinking some Realflame graphics for my 1/25th 55 chevy!
+Sgt Bones thank you for the kind words, sir. I know some of my videos get pretty long and in-depth, but I'm just trying to present solid content, so it's good to know it's appreciated.
5:00 THIS is the major issue I'm struggling with. I need a Red Japanese roundel to go on a dark green IJA airplane. When I apply my decal it's so thin and wispy it barely appears, if at all. I had hoped this was simply a printer setting I got wrong, or my decal paper was too thin. And also as you know, most Japanese roundels have white outlines on them. This single issue alone makes this process not worth it for me.
I used to scratch my head to make a proper diy decals...ending up selling my decals as my own brand and about the printing part i just sent them to cartograf via my softcopy
Wish I had watched these earlier. I got some graffiti decals for my model railroad. They looked nice and crisp and colorful. I didn't give much thought that this was only because the backing that most decals come on is white. Unless you want the faded/ghost look this is horrible!! My preference is to cut out the decal, make a rough outline. Then paint a flat white where I want to place the decal. Nothing fancy or perfect which I find more realistic for this application. For something more official/professional looking I like your masking ideas. Thank you for this easy, informational video.
Hello Will, Thanks for the videos. Your tutorials are my first go to source for learning model building techniques. Would you please explain how to make and use decal water using white vinegar. Thanks!
I’d really appreciate your videos. Excellent info. I need some help. I’m starting a f86 h Sabre jet model for my brother who served in the air force for Massachusetts. It’s a surprise Xmas gift. I’ve one question. Could please suggest websites you mention for free logos, insignias, etc I want to make it accurate as possible. I appreciate any help you can supply Thanks, DickT
It is quite hard to find some information about this. I have just purchased the expert-choice decal films. My question is if maybe the clear coat like TS-13 by Tamiya will do the work to seal decal print.
as far as i can tell, the ec paper is just world paper. same markings on the back. ts-13, like all the ts sprays, is quite hot. i wouldn't use it. a clear gloss lacquer reduced with mr.leveling thinner is better.
A little late in the day I know but have you heard of dr decal and mr hyde. Im considering them for the reasons you say about being able to see the edges of the decal. I need white lettering on black background, bummer.
Oh yeah, you'd have to be careful, but I have it in the back of my head that standard decals are laid down on a layer of lacquer. If so, I could see massaging this technique into hiding decal film better as well as getting the things to adhere to detail more. Hell, maybe Microsol/Microset have small ammounts of lacquer thinner or acetone in them! I'm going to start playing with automotive urethane basecoats soon. I wonder if I'd have to worry about lacquer damaging them... I'll experimentate with all that.
Your thinking is not wrong. Most lacquer thinners include some alcohols as one of their components. And that is basically what decal setting solutions are. As for urethanes… when I had to wrap the red bull logo around the exhaust covers on my red bull mustang, I used lacquer thinner. It worked just fine but things got very soft in a hurry.
Oh that's interesting. I presume the base coat had not fully "cured" as well. Urethanes are an interesting animal. I recently saw a video of various urethane clears that had been left to sit in hockey puck form for 10 days. They had all hardened, but basically acted like rubbery silicone. The object was to demonstrate the durability, rigidity and clarity of each substance to determine a superior product for the application. But an automotive lacquer paint probably would have instantly rubbed off under lacquer thinner. I take it that the base coat returned to normal after the lacquer thinner had dried out?
lacquers don't really "cure", they just dry out. urethanes do, but it's fast. how flexible they remain is up to the specific formula, of which there are many.
Hi Will, your video got me thinking if 'Hydrographic Printing' could work as well for scale modelling. Printed on PVA film with a conventional inkjet printer it at least seems possible according to this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YlUhPrAqiY0.html Although the technical paper aims mainly at 'warp-matching' the method may do without for simple camo or wood grain pattern? What's your thought on this? Cheers.
print you own but all you do is talk and stick one on . Them you don't show anything about actually making them on the printer all you do you show them how to lay something down . how to what U didn't show anything on making them I'm sorry this is not a how to video it's not showing anything !
