In my case, I'm looking at the source being municipal water which is not rated for drinking. The water is slowly pushed into a large water tank which then an electric water pump will push it to the house. I'm told that a great upgrade would be to add a filter before the water is sent into the tank. So far, I don't know of a recommended filter that is best for my use case.
I am adding one of these type of sediment traps to our well water system, but I think the trap really should be prior to the pressure/bladder tank. I have had previous issues with large amounts of sand collecting in the bottom of the tank, since it is typically the lowest point. Would you agree? (you mentioned installation AFTER the pressure tank).
Bad idea because if the filter ever becomes blocked the well pump will not know to turn off and you run the risk of blowing the feed line or damaging the pump. The pressure valve in such a situation would not see the high pressure and hence not turn the power to pump off.
@@brianbonnick2196 I guess I had envisioned it between the pressure switch and the bladder tank (there are several feet of PVC between in my situation.) However, it could possibly make the pump cycle on/off rapidly if it were clogged. We have literally had the line between the bladder and pressure switch become fully packed with sand several times....this occurs when the power goes out and pressure is bled off the bladder tank, and pushes the sand sitting in the bottom of the bladder back up into the line.
Ugh.. commented in the middle of the video, my bad. Seems if a 1000 hole filter is 15 microns, then I'm going to have to work out the parameters of the rest of the system first (a 3 phase filter system for silt, I was thinking maybe 20/10/5 microns for those filters would work until I watched this) and then find the right amount of holes per square inch/ microns to work out properly with the rest. Seems I'm at the bottom of my learning curve! Is there a holes/micron size chart out there somewhere?
What do you know, after more then 10 years with that filter I just discovered it was installed backward. Thank you mister plumber guy! No wonder I had so much trouble cleaning that cartridge... Now to figure out how I'll reinstall it correctly...
Not sure how it worked installed backwards . It has an arrow on the thing. I did install mine before my pressure tank . After the pressure tank is the whole house filter. Both filter systems have bypass . The spin down filter is new so comes apart very easily . Always use a food grade silicone for re assembly. Also I ran about 10' of ice maker tubing that I can run outside my crawl space to drain it down. Don't want to haul buckets full of water 😒 outta there.
What mesh size is best for well water with fine clay silt? I currently have 100 mesh stainless steel and it gets clogged up pretty bad. Thinking of switching to 60 or 30 mesh stainless steel. Thanks.
can i use this before my pressure pump? like pvc pipe from my well then spin down then pressure pump before pressure tank? cause because of the fine sand my impeller of my pump keeps getting damaged and unable to pressurized my pressure tank
I'm interested in this as we have pumped underground hard water that does tend to have large sand/sediment in it. I see the sand in a clear bowl of water. It's not bad, it's been ok for washing hands & dishes, but I have to wonder how much sand gets on our bodies, especially in our head of hair, after a shower. We do not drink the water, we buy bottled water & also bring in many jugs of relatively cleaner city tap water from somewhere else, so I am only interested in trying to do a basic filtering of sediment/sand from our whole-house water. We also have a septic tank & because we stopped using a water softener for about twenty years now (it broke), I have to wonder if all that sand/sediment from underground gets trapped in our septic & possibility makes the room volume of storage in that tank smaller & smaller & smaller. We have had this house, underground pump & septic tank since the mid 1980's, so after all that time, I am worried something bad might happen to the septic tank from a slow accumulation of sand inside over time & it likely be costly to repair. We only have 3 people in the house now, as the other half/three have since left for years now.
Maybe a silly question, but can all the canisters in a triple setup be clear (instead of 2 being blue)? And I live in Daytona Beach (hot & humid), can these canisters be set up outside next to my water softener? In the shade or in a tiny shed? We want to descale our faucets/sinks/tub/etc., remove the salt taste, and stop the occasional drip of pink or dark slime. 😱 I know, it sounds horrible. Last question: do you design, sell and install in Daytona Beach?
What do you recommended I use to filter natural spring water? I plan on utilizing an electronic Primo pump to fill my water bottles, but I would like to eliminate any sediment present.
I keep hearing debris and the description goes down to "sand" but I'm wondering if just sediment sized particles, the kind of fine particles I see in my toilet would be too fine for a spin down filter.
It's not anything crazy. It just grabs stuff like pebbles, sand, dust, and the like depending on the size of the filter. You use this in combination with another traditional filter, such as a whole house 2-3 stage, so it doesn't eat up the filter with a bunch of gunk. You know, rather than the filter having to handle EVERYTHING, it only has to handle everything below, let's say, 30 microns. As a result, it handles akin to city water.
Thanks for this great video, I'm trying spin off the housing but it won't budge by hand. Any recommendations how to twist off the housing so I can get my filter out and clean it.
I bought a place with this smaller Rusco spindown filter, but it is so tight, I can't hand-unscrew it... do you have an recommendation for a filter wrench to unscrew it?
Have seen two other similar comments: Our housing is almost impossible to loosen. Any tips? Rusco suggested wrapping housing in towel and using spanner wrench. Didn't work. Hubs uses gripper gloves, tries 4-5 times, takes a break, then tries another 2-3 times before it loosens. Since I'm much weaker I do reinstall to "barely hand tight", yet it is always so difficult to loosen. There must be something wrong, or something we're missing. Yes??
Can you add any of these models before the pump? I have small rocks coming in (the size of fish tank gravel) and I would prefer not to have that debris in my pressure tank.
I have same requirement. I presume you have a jet pump. We at present have a 60 mesh static screen/filter before our pump. It only collects gravel and seashells that come in from (in our case) the lake. Doesn't get blocked and I just rinse it out every 6 months or so. It has an o-ring that leaks, so was looking at alternatives! By the way, we don't have a pressure tank, so the pump flow controller also needs clean water.
Now I've heard different things but I put my spin down filter first , then a whole house single canister before my pressure tank . Then after all that I put in a 3 stage filter for the house. For the hose bibs and irrigation misters I run them through a single canister filter as well. Our water with all the iron was rurning the toilets rusty . Not any more .
If these spin-down filters aided the system pre-filter from having to be changed monthly to like approx. every 2-3 months, then it would make sense to purchase, but I noticed in most cases that people still end up having to change their pre-filter monthly. So, i really dont see the purpose of these.
