It’s back for a Warranty claim check, but is it even the SAME ENGINE? 

When I used to work in a garage if we ever sent expensive parts from the rally cars or done something for a customer that was a "strange vibe" customer we would carefully use metal letter stamps on each part that way we can identify it. If you were to stamp your initials somewhere discreet on the block and head it would give you clear indication if they bring back the same block with different head vice versa.

Definitely a junkyard engine

When you build an engine dont you record the engine number ?

Even if it is the original engine, you can't stand by a warranty on an engine that's been treated as badly as that. You can't be held responsible for corrosion!

Record all engine numbers ?

As soon as you removed the sump I was thinking not the same engine. Looks at least ten years old or from a scrap yard. Someone’s after a freebie. Love the videos👍

I agree with Chris Hanlon, back in the day when I worked welding pressure vessels we had to stamp all our work with a number/letter stamp, so if it failed tests or came back for any other reason, the builder could be recognized

You're setting yourself up for failure. As an engine builder here in the US we put our own part number on each head and block we build, then record that unique number on a work order the customer never sees. Just take some punch stamps and punch the number where they can't see it. Bingo problem solved, no more BS warranty work. On high end builds (which we do a lot of) we even stamp the crank and rods. Now everything has to match, if it doesn't you escort them out of the shop and tell them to have a nice day.

What do you mean when you say “ in sitchu “

Looking at that corrosion and carbon build up. Where were the 2 events, in the local pond about 3 years ago?

Many years ago, I used to build /tune Ford engines. After one engine coming back to me and the owner claiming I had done it incorrectly, I had a suspicion that it was not the same engine that I had built. From then on, any engine I built, I secretly marked all the parts with a letter and a date code. And sure enough, it turned out to be the right thing to do. I caught out two other people over the period of 18 months try to con me, it nearly put me off doing any more engines, but I carried on for a few more years. I would suggest you do the same, also take photos with a date of the work that you have done. It may seem to be making more work for you, but it gives you proof that you did or did not do the work. As for the state of that engine, it looks like it has been left in the rain with the plugs out. What a sad world we live in.

If I remember right, it was used on a rock crawler type 4x4, so he’s probably sunk it in water and hydro-locked it or just left it with the water inside so that it can add some patina to the insides.

Great episode unfortunately I think the customer is treating you as fair game he’s already said he can’t remember grinding the bolts so it’s an engine he picked up from somewhere.

I would just give it all back and say you don't want his business. In my line of work we get maybe 5% of customers trying to send old stuff back saying they got it recently or breaking stuff and demanding refunds etc. Unfortunately some people think it's fair game to try every trick in the book to get a freebee.

You need to set up a block id on everything that passes through. If an engine has a number , use that. Any block that you skim and loose the number, then a code relative to code number you keep on record. Dont use an invoice number as 'customer' then can see that. I would also look at using heat tell tales, which glue to engines. They will tell if it has been overheated. You have no idea how good the radiators or cooling is on a car, especially a special or race car. Mr Amnesia is pulling a fast one on the Mazda. Like I said on the last video, he doesnt have a leg to stand on for any warranty. That head looks like a scrapper engine thats been left outside for months without a cover, letting water in ports where valves were open.

You need to consider stamping enigines and heads when you rebuild them. Then you can catch out the chancers.

There's another channel on youtube where amateurs' build cars and car engines, mostly Mopars. The guys had rigged up a way of grinding the heads flat on a V8 engine. The took a one by four board around a foot long or so, wrapped it with sand paper, and the strapped a car battery to the top of the board to give it some weight, and then push the board back and forth on the head with the board 90degrees to the length of the head.. They were demonstrating the grinding process for the camera. I laughed even harder when the board was wobbling around whenever they would move it.

Just as others have said a very discreet stamp or engraved mark (only known to you) would be a big help for yourself, so if a client returns with a "warranty" job and before any investigation work your discreet mark can be checked. I have had engines in for rebuilds or mods and have found stamps made by BBR, and a couple of machine shops here in N Ireland

I have built about 100 Triumph transmissions in the last 15 years, every one has my initials and month year stamped in the casing. Maybe a tie wire between 2 main bolts and 2 head bolts with lead punch seals, looks professional and gives you peace of mind.

That brake lathe is a blast from the past for me! I've used the Ammco, Accu-turn and FMC brake lathes in shops and parts stores I've worked at. They were all fine but I was a SURGEON with the Ammco! Thanx for the vid, Be well.