Thanks for making this so short. Most people take 5 times as long to say the same content. I have a 1999 KLR as well but only have 1500 miles on it. Never even heard of the dookicky till this year. Matter of fact, I wasn't even aware you needed to adjust the balancer tensioner. I guess ignorance is bliss.
I get people from time to time pointing out the UK guy's video about how he believes it's balancer chain stretch and not the spring bottoming out. That was absolutely the case on the bike in HIS video (with 28,000 miles on it), but I (and many, many others) have found fully-bottomed out springs on bikes with less than 6,000 miles on them. It's not likely that a chain is stretched beyond service limit in that short of time unless it was seriously bad steel, or some other actual component failure. The too-long factory spring prematurely bottoming out can be the CAUSE of chain stretch and here's how: If the spring prematurely bottoms out (before the chain has reached it service limit of stretch) and then you loosen the external adjusting bolt during basic maintenance thinking you're adjusting the tension, the idler/tension sprocket inside the case doesn't actually move. If it doesn't move, it doesn't take up any of the normally occurring chain stretch. At that point, your chain is still loose and can start eating the guides, which lets the chain get even looser, accelerating the wear. This accelerates the chain stretch and becomes a self-feeding problem. If chain stretch was the problem, Eagle Mike would also be recommending/selling you a new chain along with every doohickey. One thing to pay close attention to on the install is where the replacement balancer lever (doohickey) fixing bolt actually ends up in the adjustment slot under tension. In the video thumbnail you can see that it ended up a bit to the right of the half-way mark in the available adjustment slot on the Eagle Mike doohickey. This indicates that chain is probably a bit stretched, but well within the service limit. If I put a new doohickey in and the fixing bolt ended up biased well to the right of the slot I would definitely pull and replace the chain, guides, and possibly sprockets depending on tooth wear (chain, guides, and sprocket teeth all wear together as a matched set.) If your guides have been worn from a loose chain flopping around in there, that will accelerate the chain stretch. So yes, the coil springs are a problem by themselves, but when you're in there replacing the spring and doohickey, pay attention to where the fixing bolt ends up in the adjustment slot. Inspect the guides and other components and look for obvious wear/damage. If you see it, fix it.
No longer have my KLR (still miss it though) but Eagle Mike and his products are the best. No affiliation here either, he's just a dude who makes great stuff and treats people well.
I will never part with my KLR sorry man but I enjoy ordering stuff and keeping it running and looking 100% I have the best looking 2003 model on the planet. I try to order something for it at least every month.
I just watched a video of another mechanic in the UK that replaced the guides and the chain and used the OE spring. The worn chain seems to be the real issue
I've personally found many springs that were completely bottomed out on bikes with less than 10,000 miles on them. There's no way that the counterbalance chain is stretched beyond the service limit in under 10,000 miles.
I think the chain is stretched on this KLR 650. If you look at the bottom of the chain at the adjusting sprocket, you can see how close it is to touching the bottom of the case. This indicates that the chain has been stretched. When you pushed the adjuster pulley at 1:27. the chain almost touches the case.
I just watched the guy from the UK's video, certainly gives you things to think about. I would always check the chain guides for wear like he did as his were trashed. A new chain solved the issue. Can't help but think that in many cases a stretched chain is in fact the actual issue.
The chain does ride very close to the case in the stock position. It definitely had some stretch in it, but the guides were in good shape. I've found bottomed out springs on bikes with less than 6,000 miles on them. It's just not really likely that a chain is stretched that far in that short of time (unless it was just bad steel, or some other actual component failure. One thing to pay close attention to is where the replacment balancer lever (doohickey) fixing bolt actually ends up in the adjustment slot under tension. In the video thumbnail you can see that it ended up a bit to the right of the half-way mark in the available adjustment slot on the Eagle Mike doohickey. This indicates that chain is probably a bit stretched, but well within the service range. If I put one of those in and the fixing bolt ended up biased well to the right of the slot I would definitely pull and replace the chain, guides, and possibly gears depending on tooth wear (chain, guides, and gear teeth all wear together as a matched set...)
I think the chain is stretched on this KLR 650. If you look at the bottom of the chain at the adjusting sprocket, you can see how close it is to touching the bottom of the case. This indicates that the chain has been stretched. When you pushed the adjuster pulley at 1:27. the chain almost touches the case.
It probably was a little stretched (the bike in that video had about 17,000 miles on if I remember correctly), but I believe it was still within service limits. The shot you refer to at 1:27 has a couple things going on. One thing is the mid-part of the case is off so the counter-balance sprocket is unsupported and is drooping down a bit. This assembly (chain and sprocket) does run close to the case in the first place, but also the angle of the camera makes it look closer than it really is. In the final assembly under tension with the eagle mike doohickey lever and torsion spring in place at 1:48 (and also the video thumbnail) you can see that the fixing bolt is just past the 1/2 way point in the adjustment slot indicating a considerable amount of adjustment left. I've replaced lots of these including very low mile bikes and the final assembly ends up around the 1/2 way point in the Eagle Mike lever's adjustment slot. If final assembly under tension was seriously biased to the right side of the slot (as you face it) then I would pull it apart and replace the chain, guides, and probably sprockets as that would indicate a considerable amount of chain stretch. There's actually a spec for measuring the distance over multiple pins to determining stretch, although I don't remember it off the top of my head. The bike in the video ran beautifully after that and has now for years.
I've done a bunch of these installs now for myself, friends, and family. I haven't found a broken doohickey, but the springs are usually done or close to it. That welded design on the early stock balancer lever is a weak point though. The 2008 and newer KLR's have an improved balancer lever from Kawasaki (still not anywhere near as nice as Eagle Mike's), but the springs can still be a problem. Totally worth just moving to the EM torsion spring and doohickey. Peace of mind is worth the investment. I have enough photos and video to do a DETAILED video on the install. Think I should make one? I know there's a lot of them out there on the web, but I haven't seen one that runs through EVERY part of the install carefully (including the little things like making sure you clean and oil all the thrust bearings before you put them back in and checking that the starter ring gear turns freely and has the right amount of end play as you run the torque up on the rotor bolt...
WheeliePete I think the KLR community would benefit greatly from another doohickey video, and even more from a super detailed and thorough one. I’d definitely watch your video before doing mine! Thanks again.
@@WheeliePete I have a heavily modded 2016 that has 8k on it. I'm mechanically inclined & can't find anyone around me that has done the doohickey mod. Its the drilling part that makes me nervous. The PITA part of taking off my crash bars & lights also is slowing me down. Would you recommend I go ahead & replace it? If I go in a few other post suggest getting my valves inspected & shimmed. I've heard several people say theirs were out of spec after only 7k or break in & after replaced lasted much longer.
@@WheeliePete not really there the thingamabob mod too, adding the weight and power issue and seat height to the mix it is a deal killer. results are that id rather have a lighter more agile bike with no real out of the crate issues the plus of the klr is the plastics and screen not a real big plus.
Oh thank god, I was riding dunes and things suddenly got very lumpy at idle and heard a slight metallic noise from left side and though I bet my doohickey just went kaput, had to ride it out but a few times I noticed what sounded like rod knock and I though man this KLR is sad, good to know my bottom end is probably fine.
Great informative video, Short & to the point. I'm getting ready to do mine, very helpful. Also it looks like you're in my back yard ! Where ya located ? I'm in Eugene.
If you've got it all apart the only thing in my opinion that makes sense is to put the Eagle Mike torsion (clock) spring in. The linear (coil) spring just has too many things that can go wrong with it. I know some people are put-off by having to drill the small hole in the intermediate case to install the torsion spring, but it's really pretty straight forward and there's lots of good online documentation on it. I've put in six or seven doohickeys now with the torsion (clock) spring conversion and they've all worked great.
@@WheeliePete I plan to... but at the moment I have a bike trip to do - it survived with a busted spring for what looks like years - it can survive with no spring for a month ! Obviously I would never have fitted it if I knew it was worse than the genuine spring that actually didn't break.
The spring only has to work when the fixing bolt for the balancer adjustment lever is loose (you're supposed to adjust it every other oil change) which is why you can access that bolt from the outside of the engine cases (remove the rubber plug to access the bolt.) If the spring was broken and the bolt was loose at the same time the balancer chain would immediately get a bunch of slack in it and your bike would run really funny for a few minutes before it probably grenaded. As long as the lever was fixed by the bolt in the right position to put tension on the balancer chain, it doesn't matter if the spring is in there or not. I think you could get in there and apply tension to the lever (putting tension in the idler pulley and counter-balance chain) by hand and then tighten the fixing bolt with the outer case cover off, but you for sure don't want to loosen that bolt again from the outside if there's not spring in there to apply tension to the balancer lever arm (doohickey).
I did the doo but I didn’t use the torsion spring. I used the Eagle mike coil spring instead. Works fine. Oh and that was after 28k miles on a 14 new edition model.
I have a question If it’s bottomed out. Doesn’t that mean it’s at its limit and the chain is stretched too much? Or at least the tensioner is at its limit?
Yes Sir! Couple years ago. This last summer (2017) the whole damn place was on fire and they closed the roads before we could go up there again. The riding video during the end credits was up at Crater Lake on the south end of the rim drive.
so basicly i have same problem right now, in idle there is that knocking sound, as soon as rpm increase it goes away. as much as i know doohickey hasnt been done and i intend to do it as soon as posible, howewer it might take 1 month or more for parts to arrive, and my question is is it dangerous to drive bike until than in this unfixed state? what can hapend?
You can try and pull the rubber plug and loosen the fixing bolt, lightly tap the case/bolt head with a rubber mallet in case things are stuck a bit (the flange on the fixing bolt can hang up in the adjustment slot of the doohickey sometimes), and then re-tighten the doohickey fixing bolt (8 n-m, or 69 in-lbs). IF the doohickey is in one piece, and IF the spring still has any tension in it, it will tighten the counterbalance chain and everything will be right in the world. If the doohickey is broken though and you loosen the fixing bolt, then any tension that it was applying will be released and you might end up with doohickey parts getting into your rotating assembly. What year bike? The 2008+ bikes had a better doohickey from the factory, but still crappy springs. The earlier bikes had both a crappy doohickey and spring. If you try the adjustment and no change happens then the tension spring is probably bottomed out. Personally, if it was me, I'd wait for parts, but if you have to ride it I don't think it's going to destroy it to keep riding it like it is (of course I I'm not there to see/hear it so....take that advice with a grain of caution...) If you get it all apart and find that the doohickey is in pieces, look for pieces stuck to the magnets in the stator cover. I found a chunk of doohickey like that once in a bike that had a new eagle milk doohickey in it. The prior owner must have broken a stock one and not found all the pieces when he replaced it.
I'm not sure on that (the early 600 series KLR having doohickey issues). Mike at Eagle Mfg. is pretty great to talk to. If you call him up he'll know for sure. His phone numbers right at the bottom of their website: www.eaglemike.com/KLR650-2007-and-earlier_c2.htm?page=2 (I'm not affiliated with the business in any way; I've just had really good customer service from them over the years and recommend them highly.)
Eagle Mike's website where he sells the parts points you towards this website for detailed instructions: www.leftcoastklrs.com/articles.htm From the current instructions on the torsion spring on that website I quote "The current springs require a hole drill between 5:00 and 5:30, or a little to the right of the 6:00 position. This is the correct location for the current design of spring. If the ends of the spring are approximately 180 degrees from each other, this is the location to use. If there has been a bunch of wear on the balancer system, the location might need to be changed for best application. The drill diameter is 1/16". There will also be a note about this in or on the package containing the lever and/or the torsion spring. This is the best location for most bikes. It might help if you lay the spring against the case so you can see the arc. Remember the arc will get a little smaller as the spring tightens."
I've always use 8nm (70.806 in-lb) There is some controversy with the 2022 manual having a higher value, but I, like many others, would be leary of anything higher. See the discussion thread here: www.klrforum.com/threads/2022-dohickey-adjustment-bolt-torque.75925/ If you don't have a small Nm or in-lb torque wrench you probably should get one because there is a lot of small hardware on the KLR that take lower torque values. Here's an example from amazon (amazon affiliate link): amzn.to/48sBYEJ
The fixing bolt on the counterbalance chain tensioner arm (the doohickey) fixes the tension on the chain. The reason that bolt head sticks through the engine cover is so you can, every couple of oil changes, just loosen that bolt a bit, then inside the engine the spring on the doohickey will self-adjust by pulling the idler wheel into tension (taking up any slack from chain stretch or guide wear) applying the proper tension on the counterbalance chain, then you tighten the bolt back down to lock the tension setting and replace the rubber plug in the side cover of the engine. Here's forum thread with a shot of a manual: www.reddit.com/r/klr650/comments/hoxvgp/balancer_chain_adjustment_in_owners_manual/
If your engine sounds good, you're probably fine. The balancer chain adjustment lever (doohickey) was upgraded by Kawasaki by 2010 so you shouldn't have the issue with that breaking. If it was me, I'd still open up the case and take a look at the spring, counterbalance chain, guide wear, etc. If there's any question, I'd still replace the stock spring and doohickey with the Eagle Manufacturing machined doohickey and torsion spring assembly.
I wouldn't worry about it on a brand new bike. I just wait until you're out of warranty unless you suspect something. The factory doohickeys starting in 2008 were a better manufactured part, but the spring tension has been an ongoing problem with some units. If you've got a warranty I just leave everything alone and don't do anything to void the warranty until it's up.
Probably need to open it back up and see what's wrong. From what you describe it almost sounds like the tension isn't right on the counter-balance chain. Did you replace the linear spring with a torsion spring, or another linear spring?
