Thank you for your kind words and support. Maybe the channel will take off, maybe it won't. Either way, I'm having fun making the videos and sharing my passion, and I don't plan to stop any time soon.
It's all with respect to the joint being welded. The welds between collector halves act as a trough that allows shielding gas to pool and maintain an inert environment for both the electrode and pieces of pipe. That amount of stick out would be disastrous in almost any other instance.
Another beautiful manifold!!! What’s your preferred tungsten? And I’ve been playing more with the silicon bronze cap on thin wall, do you have a rule of thumb on what thickness it’s no longer beneficial? Thanks Alex!!!
Thank you for your kind words and continued support. I like 3/32" sky blue Arctime electrodes from Arc-Zone, as they can be used for both AC and DC work. I will note, however, that I've had good luck with purple E3 electrodes, gray ceriated electrodes, and I am sure there are others out there that perform equally. I do not put much emphasis on electrode choice. In regards to silicon bronze, I really only use that trick for thin wall tubing, 0.065" or thinner. Pipe seems to be better served with stainless filler on both sides from my experience.
Do you ever get any issues with the heat into the wastegate flanges you weld to the pipe ? I always clamp the wastegate to the flange then weld the pipe to it to avoid warp but i see you do not.
Great question. I do my external (as in the outside of the flange) wastegate flange welds with the flange clamped in an aluminum heat sink fixture, and allow it to cool fully prior to removing it from said fixture. I do the internal welds off of a fixture, as I am not putting an excessive amount of heat into the flange with the pedal pulse technique I use for the internal welds. I've had great luck with this technique over the years.